Re: Different Prices - such a range!
I second all the comments on getting a longer bed. I would also add another very important consideration : Don't just look at the lathe - look at the vendor.? If you just buy the cheapest lathe (especially if it a a "no name" brand) you will get support post-purchase support if there are any factory defects. The good vendors will typically make good on any factory defects or omissions (but more importantly, they will also work to make sure there aren't any in the first place).? It's one thing to skimp a bit on tooling, but the lathe itself is the foundation you are building on so you want that to be as solid as possible.
Having said that, if you are the kind of person who likes to take a so-so piece of equipment and improve it, there are plenty of good guides online on how to improve a 7X lathe. So you can either pay in money up front or in labor (and a bit more money) after purchase. I think both approaches are valid; it all depends on how you like to spend your time, and how quickly you want to get started on "making stuff."
I took the latter approach many years ago - mostly because I got a good deal on a used lathe and didn't know any better. It probably took me about a 18 months to get up to speed. Part of that time was work spent tweaking the lathe, part of the time was in acquiring additional tooling, and part of the time was just re-learning very old and rusty lathe skills. I might add that if you have used or trained on a larger lathe you will have to re-learn some things on working with a small lathe.
The main thing is that I enjoyed the whole process of making improvements to my lathe, acquiring new tooling and learning how to use it, and making useful (and just fun) stuff. Whatever lathe you get, no matter what size, is going to have some limits, but there will still be many things you can do within those limits, so I am sure that whatever lathe you end up with you are bound to have fun with it.
|
Re: Different Prices - such a range!
Yes 7x14 well worth the extra. I originally imported the smaller lath but dropped them in favour of the 7xmore useful and popular 7x14.
|
Re: Different Prices - such a range!
There is ZERO difference in the QUALITY of any of the 7X mini-lathes.? ? There is more difference between examples of any vendor's lathe, than between different vendor versions.? ?Totally luck of the draw.? ?I currently have the LMS 5100 - most expense 7X available.? ? Not a bit better than the $299 Homier I previously owned (with respect to build quality).? ?Both SIEG built.? ?Features will vary.? ?Don't expect quality.? ?Buy the cheapest and expect issues.
--
Lone Tree, Colorado? ?USA
|
Re: Different Prices - such a range!
?I¡¯m an ex importer of mini lathes. There are 3 manufacturers . The first being Sieg commonly called a kit lathe by many usually requiring lots of work to have accuracy.Easily identified by a¡±H¡± shaped saddle. The best was the Falcon made by the ex export manager of Real Bull who set his own manufacturing company and made an improved version. These two manufacturers lathes can be identified by a more robust rectangular saddle, adjustable lead screw end float, oilers on lead screw bearings plus other hidden improvements.. These 2 are more favourable for the well known reputable dealers using their own brand names.
|
Re: Different Prices - such a range!
Buy one with a rectangular saddle not a H shaped. They have an inferior power board and are more of a kit. To get accuracy they normally require stripping and rebuilding. I¡¯m an ex importer of Real Bull and Falcon . They were virtually problem free. That¡¯s why I¡¯m stuck with a heap of spares.
|
Re: Different Prices - such a range!
There are actually a couple of different lathes Sieg sells 3 similar but different 7" lathes the C2, SC2 and C3 which have a few differences mostly bed lengths, and drive system. Add to this the different vendors spec their versions differently, more powerful motors, nicer hand wheels, fancier tail stock etc. Another cost difference comes down to quality control, the cheapest come off the line, into a box and off to the customer, the more expensive actually get inspected so while probably not perfect there are no broken castings or grossly malformed bits.
A higher end seller is also more likely to help after the sale, vs the bottom tier who don't know who you are once the money has been received.
Regarding size, consider if you plan on moving the lathe after getting it home. The 7x14 and 7x16 can be moved but are significantly heavier / bulkier which might get old if you plan on storing the lathe elsewhere than your work bench. More length is always useful if other considerations don't over ride it.
The other thing is the 7x16 are large enough that cost becomes the only reason not to go with a larger more substantial 8" or 9" lathe. A 7x16" is only about 6"? shorter than a 9x20" lathe.
Only the 7x10 is well short of the nominal length. They are really 200mm / 8", all the rest are within 1/4" of their stated length in inches. Their true measure is in metric (200,300,350 and 400mm), the inch lengths given are just rounded nearest other than the 7x10.
|
Re: Different Prices - such a range!
I had the exact same experience as gcvisalia. Length, inch, and motor sold me. Also because of the added weight of a 7x16 it is shipped in two cartons which forces you to assemble a small portion of the lathe which gets you familiar with adjusting the gibs, lead screw, and familiarizes you with what is under the front electrical cover. ? First upgrade purchase for any 7x should be the QCTP from Little Machine Shop < > ? But with all that said, I think the original post came from someone in Europe so MicroMark, Little Machine Shop, and inches probably don¡¯t weigh in for him. ? Michael - California, USA Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16 LMS 3990 Hi-Torque Mill with power feed ? ? ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of gcvisalia@... Sent: Monday, March 14, 2022 1:54 PM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] Different Prices - such a range! ? When I decided to get a lathe knowing nothing, I decided on micromark 7x16 lathe. Also it was the only 7x16 at the time.The length, the true inch and the brushless motor sold me. Yes, I did some reading and the big thing was the length and the motor. It was just under what I could afford. I did get some other add ins and that got me started. But for sure, no matter what lathe you get, you will need to take them apart to clean things up and readjust things. But in a way that's also a way to really get to know your lathe. I'm still working on things for the lathe but making my shop more user friendly has taken up much of my time. Good luck ! On Monday, March 14, 2022, 09:14:10 AM PDT, Jonathan Mackenzie via groups.io <jonathanmackenzie@...> wrote: The generally accepted advice is to purchase the most expensive one you can afford, bearing in mind that about 50% of your budget will eventually go toward tooling and accessories. Most mini-lathes come from the same factory and in a wide variety of tolerances. The high end resellers insist on close specifications and better components, the low end sellers use the cheapest bits they can source. Therefore the reason for the great price disparity is quality. They look identical but the more expensive machines have better tolerances, higher quality bearings, properly aged castings and greater accuracy including spindle concentricity. You can buy a low price lathe but then spend many hours and money on improving it which is good if you want to learn about the lathe but not so good if you want to do actual work with it. If you have a choice get a 7x14 rather than a 7x12 as most stock purchased online comes in 12 inch lengths. Here in North America I run a Grizzly 8688 (7x12) and I am very happy with it, I think I paid around 600 USD and see they are now 950 USD. Hope this helps and remember there are many online reviews of the SIEG mini lathe in its many varieties. On Monday, March 14, 2022, 05:53:39 AM PDT, MZ Rider <mztraveller@...> wrote: I am thinking of buying a new mini lathe. The prices however seem to be in a ratio of 1 to 3 from lowest to highest. This is after making allowances for what is supplied, which for a basic model, which is all I want is the gears and a 3 jaw chuck plus a few tools. Currently cheapest on Amazon Prime in the UK is around ?400 for a 7x12 no DRO. OK for what I want. Yet similar machines seem to go up to nearer ?1200 from other suppliers.
As far as I can see they look identical. I can deal with the setting up etc.?
My experiences of cheap and cheerful Chinese products with a? few exceptions is that so long as one does not expect too much one will not be disappointed. However a 1:3 price difference for obviously the same product is not usual.
|
Re: Different Prices - such a range!
When I decided to get a lathe knowing nothing, I decided on micromark 7x16 lathe. Also it was the only 7x16 at the time.The length, the true inch and the brushless motor sold me. Yes, I did some reading and the big thing was the length and the motor. It was just under what I could afford. I did get some other add ins and that got me started. But for sure, no matter what lathe you get, you will need to take them apart to clean things up and readjust things. But in a way that's also a way to really get to know your lathe. I'm still working on things for the lathe but making my shop more user friendly has taken up much of my time. Good luck !
On Monday, March 14, 2022, 09:14:10 AM PDT, Jonathan Mackenzie via groups.io <jonathanmackenzie@...> wrote:
The generally accepted advice is to purchase the most expensive one you can afford, bearing in mind that about 50% of your budget will eventually go toward tooling and accessories. Most mini-lathes come from the same factory and in a wide variety of tolerances. The high end resellers insist on close specifications and better components, the low end sellers use the cheapest bits they can source. Therefore the reason for the great price disparity is quality. They look identical but the more expensive machines have better tolerances, higher quality bearings, properly aged castings and greater accuracy including spindle concentricity. You can buy a low price lathe but then spend many hours and money on improving it which is good if you want to learn about the lathe but not so good if you want to do actual work with it. If you have a choice get a 7x14 rather than a 7x12 as most stock purchased online comes in 12 inch lengths. Here in North America I run a Grizzly 8688 (7x12) and I am very happy with it, I think I paid around 600 USD and see they are now 950 USD. Hope this helps and remember there are many online reviews of the SIEG mini lathe in its many varieties.
On Monday, March 14, 2022, 05:53:39 AM PDT, MZ Rider <mztraveller@...> wrote:
I am thinking of buying a new mini lathe. The prices however seem to be in a ratio of 1 to 3 from lowest to highest. This is after making allowances for what is supplied, which for a basic model, which is all I want is the gears and a 3 jaw chuck plus a few tools. Currently cheapest on Amazon Prime in the UK is around ?400 for a 7x12 no DRO. OK for what I want. Yet similar machines seem to go up to nearer ?1200 from other suppliers.
As far as I can see they look identical. I can deal with the setting up etc.?
My experiences of cheap and cheerful Chinese products with a? few exceptions is that so long as one does not expect too much one will not be disappointed. However a 1:3 price difference for obviously the same product is not usual.
|
Re: Different Prices - such a range!
I recommend a 7¡± x 16¡± hands down.
I bought one from MicroMark at least a dozen years ago. My experience has been positive with this machine. I¡¯ve been using lathes since I was 12 years old. My Dad bought a 9¡± SouthBend and I cut my teeth on that machine. Buy the best you can afford if you intend to stick with this hobby and you will be rewarded over time.
|
Re: Different Prices - such a range!
Yes.? While the 7x12 and 7x14 were initially mentioned, there are, and have been, 7x10 and 7x16 models.? So 7x10, 7x12, 7x14 and 7x16 are out there. ? To amplify what was said below, it is true that the mini-lathes don¡¯t measure length in a conventional manner (¡°conventional¡± being ¡°between centers¡±).? But I think they are measured the same way relative to each other.? And when you mount a chuck, workpiece in the chuck, drill chuck in the tailstock, and a drill mounted in the drill chuck, you want all the real estate in length you can get.? That said, some folks seem happy, based on what they do, with shorter models.? But I advise getting the longest which is a 7x16.? It is also handy to be able to slide the tailstock to a position further away when not being used to help keep it out of your way. ? Speaking of tailstocks, there are two styles, standard and offset.? Offset helps give even more distance between centers.? Tailstocks also come in bolt tighten versus cam lock versions.? Cam lock is vastly better and some lathes come with that.? Others have modified their tailstocks to have this feature. ? I seriously doubt there is any vast difference in quality between them.? Most are made by the same company (Sieg) and branded differently, with different features (besides just length such as motor size) different included accessories, and perhaps pre-cleaned to get the gunky shipping grease off.? I don¡¯t know if the mention of properly aged castings is true or not, but I seriously doubt that.? And given the many accuracy issues of these lathes, and their small stout size, I feel that would be relatively unimportant anyway.? Like some alcoholic beverages, I suspect the castings are ¡°aged in the truck¡±. ? If you haven¡¯t seen it already, the site has a vast amount of information on these things.? Although some of it may be slightly dated. ? There is another issue very important to some, but not to others, regarding the markings of the handwheels.? Most of these mini-lathes are natively metric with metric lead screws.? However, many have handwheels marked in English even though the lead screws are metric.? This doesn¡¯t work out quite exactly.? For example, a metric marked handwheel might be 1 mm per turn and have 100 markings got the metric version for 0.001 mm resolution.? That same lathe sold in an English version would have 40 equal markings for 0.040 inch per turn.? But it is actually 0.03937 inches per turn so is a little off. There have even been some marked with 39 correctly spaced markings, and the last marking a little less so it 39 markings for 0.039 inches and one last one just before coming around to zero again representing the 0.00037 inches.? Micro-Mark sells ¡°true inch¡± versions which have English lead screws so the markings in English are correct.? All that said, this finagling done to make a natively metric lathe have English markings doesn¡¯t seem to bother many as for many purposes the error is small enough, or they are making one-off parts and measuring to final sizes anyway otherwise. ? At the end of the day, there is no single correct model to buy. ?It depends on what you want to do with it.? And you might decide at some point to upgrade to a better mini-lathe version, or perhaps upgrade to a larger lathe entirely.? Whatever you buy, you can sell if you want to upgrade.? Lots of people want little lathes.? But in general, I always suggest getting the best you can possibly afford.? The tooling you buy (not only for the lathe, but for other machining needs such as measuring devices) is going to cost the same whether you got the machine you really wanted or got a machine you wish you hadn¡¯t. ? Chuck K. ? ? Sent from for Windows ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: Ralph LehotskySent: Monday, March 14, 2022 10:05 AM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] Different Prices - such a range! ? I initially bought the HF 7x10 size (actually 7x8), and found out soon enough that there was little space for a workpiece.? I then went all the way to a 7x16 using the LMS P/N 5000 Bed Extension Kit.? The directions were superb, and if one takes his time, you wind up with a superb product.? Adding the Saddle Extended Travel (P/N 4449) and a couple of 5" chucks (3 jaw self centering,P/N 2337) and 4 jaw independent with an adapter, P/N 2346) turned my initial low priced purchase into a very usable piece of equipment.? Other items add to the convenience of use, such as the Tailstock Cam Lock Kit, (P/N 2018),? a quick change tool post (QCTP) with lots of tool holders, a T-slotted Compound Rest (P/N 4836), a Steady Rest (P/N 4673) and Follower Rest (P/N 1198) which can all be added when the need arises for their usage.? A handy item is an ER25 or ER36? 3MT Collet Holder which fits into the headstock, with a set full set of collets.? Dead Centers (2MT and 3 MT), a Face Plate with a set of Lathe Dogs can be useful for unique projects.? A tachometer is a nice add-on, but usually not really necessary.
All in all, I am quite happy with the usefulness of the final product, which suits my needs.? Of course, an 11x18 Hardinge Toolroom Lathe would be better, but currently is not in my price range.
ralphie ?
|
Re: Different Prices - such a range!
I initially bought the HF 7x10 size (actually 7x8), and found out soon enough that there was little space for a workpiece.? I then went all the way to a 7x16 using the LMS P/N 5000 Bed Extension Kit.? The directions were superb, and if one takes his time, you wind up with a superb product.? Adding the Saddle Extended Travel (P/N 4449) and a couple of 5" chucks (3 jaw self centering,P/N 2337) and 4 jaw independent with an adapter, P/N 2346) turned my initial low priced purchase into a very usable piece of equipment.? Other items add to the convenience of use, such as the Tailstock Cam Lock Kit, (P/N 2018),? a quick change tool post (QCTP) with lots of tool holders, a T-slotted Compound Rest (P/N 4836), a Steady Rest (P/N 4673) and Follower Rest (P/N 1198) which can all be added when the need arises for their usage.? A handy item is an ER25 or ER36? 3MT Collet Holder which fits into the headstock, with a set full set of collets.? Dead Centers (2MT and 3 MT), a Face Plate with a set of Lathe Dogs can be useful for unique projects.? A tachometer is a nice add-on, but usually not really necessary.
All in all, I am quite happy with the usefulness of the final product, which suits my needs.? Of course, an 11x18 Hardinge Toolroom Lathe would be better, but currently is not in my price range.
ralphie
|
Re: Different Prices - such a range!
The generally accepted advice is to purchase the most expensive one you can afford, bearing in mind that about 50% of your budget will eventually go toward tooling and accessories. Most mini-lathes come from the same factory and in a wide variety of tolerances. The high end resellers insist on close specifications and better components, the low end sellers use the cheapest bits they can source. Therefore the reason for the great price disparity is quality. They look identical but the more expensive machines have better tolerances, higher quality bearings, properly aged castings and greater accuracy including spindle concentricity. You can buy a low price lathe but then spend many hours and money on improving it which is good if you want to learn about the lathe but not so good if you want to do actual work with it. If you have a choice get a 7x14 rather than a 7x12 as most stock purchased online comes in 12 inch lengths. Here in North America I run a Grizzly 8688 (7x12) and I am very happy with it, I think I paid around 600 USD and see they are now 950 USD. Hope this helps and remember there are many online reviews of the SIEG mini lathe in its many varieties.
On Monday, March 14, 2022, 05:53:39 AM PDT, MZ Rider <mztraveller@...> wrote:
I am thinking of buying a new mini lathe. The prices however seem to be in a ratio of 1 to 3 from lowest to highest. This is after making allowances for what is supplied, which for a basic model, which is all I want is the gears and a 3 jaw chuck plus a few tools. Currently cheapest on Amazon Prime in the UK is around ?400 for a 7x12 no DRO. OK for what I want. Yet similar machines seem to go up to nearer ?1200 from other suppliers.
As far as I can see they look identical. I can deal with the setting up etc.?
My experiences of cheap and cheerful Chinese products with a? few exceptions is that so long as one does not expect too much one will not be disappointed. However a 1:3 price difference for obviously the same product is not usual.
|
Re: Different Prices - such a range!
Yes there is a big difference in prices. I know some companies take the lathe and make sure it runs OK, then put there label on it.
I have a 8x14 and have been using lathes on and off for most of my life.
The only thing I would recommend is get a 7x14 instead of a 7x12. You can upgrade things etc but changing the bed is a major job.
That extra 2" will make all the difference, as it would be so cramped in use. I'd like to hear from others on this.
Also expect to spend money on other tools as well, like a grinder to grind hss tool bits, verniers, drills DTI etc.
If you but one let us know how it went.
Lez
|
Different Prices - such a range!
I am thinking of buying a new mini lathe. The prices however seem to be in a ratio of 1 to 3 from lowest to highest. This is after making allowances for what is supplied, which for a basic model, which is all I want is the gears and a 3 jaw chuck plus a few tools. Currently cheapest on Amazon Prime in the UK is around ?400 for a 7x12 no DRO. OK for what I want. Yet similar machines seem to go up to nearer ?1200 from other suppliers.
As far as I can see they look identical. I can deal with the setting up etc.?
My experiences of cheap and cheerful Chinese products with a? few exceptions is that so long as one does not expect too much one will not be disappointed. However a 1:3 price difference for obviously the same product is not usual.
|
I use mag scales from DRO Pro's - nice since they are easy to cut to size. I too tried the Igaging and it didn't seem to like the LMS BLDC mill a whole lot. They'd just jump and change measurement.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 3/9/2022 10:24 PM, kaje7777 wrote: I have iGaging DROs on my LMS mini-mill, and they have been working OK, but not without problems. I bought my mill used with the DROs included (aluminum scales), so I'm guessing they were a year or so old when I bought the mill. They worked fine for a couple of years after I bought the mill, and then the vertical scale started acting flaky. I tried all the suggested remedies, and finally just ended up replacing it last year. No problems with the new scale/DRO so far.
Also, the latest iGaging readout is larger and easier to read than the older one. It lacks an auto-off feature, but does have a socket for a USB power supply.
One of my older readouts started getting very hard to switch on, so I replaced it with the another readout I happened to have on hand.
To sum up, I would say that my iGaging DROs worked a good five years before I began to experience problems. As another poster noted, they are plenty accurate for the work I am doing. You can pay a lot more for glass scales and get another digit of accuracy, but is your mill really going to be able to deliver that precision?
Below is a pic of my mill with the 3 iGaging readouts (newer one on the bottom, with a tachometer below that). You can see how much bigger the display is on the "E-Z View DRO".
Attachments:
PXL_20220310_032043040.jpg: /g/7x12MiniLathe/attachment/115735/
|
That's the style I just installed on my Smithy 3 in 1. Glad I waited!
Sent from , Swiss-based encrypted email.
Sent with secure email.
|
I have iGaging DROs on my LMS mini-mill, and they have been working OK, but not without problems.? I bought my mill used with the DROs included (aluminum scales), so I'm guessing they were a year or so old when I bought the mill. They worked fine for a couple of years after I bought the mill, and then the vertical scale started acting flaky. I tried all the suggested remedies, and finally just ended up replacing it last year. No problems with the new scale/DRO so far. Also, the latest iGaging readout is larger and easier to read than the older one. It lacks an auto-off feature, but does have a socket for a USB power supply. One of my older readouts started getting very hard to switch on, so I replaced it with the another readout I happened to have on hand. To sum up, I would say that my iGaging DROs worked a good five years before I began to experience problems. As another poster noted, they are plenty accurate for the work I am doing. You can pay a lot more for glass scales and get another digit of accuracy, but is your mill really going to be able to deliver that precision? Below is a pic of my mill with the 3 iGaging readouts (newer one on the bottom, with a tachometer below that). You can see how much bigger the display is on the "E-Z View DRO". 
|
Yes. ? I¡¯ve seen this scam before tried on me.? I was corresponding with a business, and shortly after got a similar email with supposedly a password protected Word document.? I called the company and they informed me they had been hacked and this had been sent to their entire email list.? If you enter the password, you end up installing software that monitors things and periodically sends them back to the scammer. ? It¡¯s a pretty sophisticated scam and the one tried on me was a VERY legitimate looking email including a proper fancy logo of the company I was dealing with.? But my suspicion radar is always turned on and I wondered why they would send me something needing a password.? I have two forms of anti-virus software running and neither caught it, by the way.? In this one, sucked in doesn¡¯t really know it for a long time until after somebody has captured their login information to banks and such unless.? However, it is possible that a good anti-virus software might trap those stealth outgoing messages. ? Chuck K. ? Sent from for Windows ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: James ThayerSent: Wednesday, March 9, 2022 10:36 AM To: [email protected]Subject: [7x12MiniLathe] Damned Scammers ? Just a warning to the Group...
This morning I received an e-mail that appeared as if it came from the 7x12MiniLathe group and appeared to be a response to something I posted to this group many months ago. I am including it below so you see what it looked like. (I've altered the link and password to keep the unwary from accidentally opening the payload of this message.)
Red flags:
1. The source e-mail address was <ia1bnr@...> and not <[email protected]>
2. The response looks like it might be of interest, but it is completely generic. No specific words that refer to the original message.
3. The use of a file password to open the file. (Now why would this be needed for a legitimate response to the message?)
4. The link points to a .Zip file that contains an Excel Binary file. Warning, Warning Will Robinson! Not the sort of file one would expect for a legitimate response to the original message. Needless to say, I did not open it to see what surprises it contained.
If you get such message, I suggest that you do as I did and flush it.
I now return you to your regularly scheduled discussion of creating swarf for fun and profit.
Best regards,
-)------ James
--------E-mail Body-------------
Re: [7x12MiniLathe] Better Way to Temper Steel
Hi again,
I have not seen any reaction regarding the documentation I directed you before. Have you received it?
In case it wasn't delivered, here I upload it one more time:
https://onedrive.live.com/download?cid=XXXXXD72C73F2A4&resid=DB053BD72C73F2A4%21107&authkey=APjjuU36irFCxAw
File password: XXXX
On Sat, Apr 3, 2021 at 11:03 PM, Miket_NYC wrote: Last night, I was heating the oil in a Chock Full 'o Nuts coffee can on a burner of my stove (with a steel plate to put on top if it caught fire. (Never came near it).? I was checking it with my infrared thermometer every 15 seconds or so.? It got to 350 degrees fairly quickly, but it took a LONG time to get that last bit to 450.? (At one point I was wondering if I'd ever get there).? So the idea that the oil will all of a sudden jump to 600 degrees seems extremely unlikely.? But I do always pay attention and always have a fire extinguisher handy.?
Yeah, I thought so too, right up until the day the oil flashed over. Mind you, I still cook with hot oil. I'm just that more vigilant about paying attention to it.
---------------------------------------- ?
|
Just a warning to the Group... This morning I received an e-mail that appeared as if it came from the 7x12MiniLathe group and appeared to be a response to something I posted to this group many months ago. I am including it below so you see what it looked like. (I've altered the link and password to keep the unwary from accidentally opening the payload of this message.) Red flags: 1. The source e-mail address was <ia1bnr@...> and not < [email protected]> 2. The response looks like it might be of interest, but it is completely generic. No specific words that refer to the original message. 3. The use of a file password to open the file. (Now why would this be needed for a legitimate response to the message?) 4. The link points to a .Zip file that contains an Excel Binary file. Warning, Warning Will Robinson! Not the sort of file one would expect for a legitimate response to the original message. Needless to say, I did not open it to see what surprises it contained. If you get such message, I suggest that you do as I did and flush it. I now return you to your regularly scheduled discussion of creating swarf for fun and profit. Best regards, -)------ James --------E-mail Body------------- Re: [7x12MiniLathe] Better Way to Temper Steel Hi again, I have not seen any reaction regarding the documentation I directed you before. Have you received it? In case it wasn't delivered, here I upload it one more time: https://onedrive.live.com/download?cid=XXXXXD72C73F2A4&resid=DB053BD72C73F2A4%21107&authkey=APjjuU36irFCxAw File password: XXXX
On Sat, Apr 3, 2021 at 11:03 PM, Miket_NYC wrote:
Last night, I was heating the oil in a Chock Full 'o Nuts coffee can on a burner of my stove (with a steel plate to put on top if it caught fire. (Never came near it).? I was checking it with my infrared thermometer every 15 seconds or so.? It got to 350 degrees fairly quickly, but it took a LONG time to get that last bit to 450.? (At one point I was wondering if I'd ever get there).? So the idea that the oil will all of a sudden jump to 600 degrees seems extremely unlikely.? But I do always pay attention and always have a fire extinguisher handy.?
Yeah, I thought so too, right up until the day the oil flashed over. Mind you, I still cook with hot oil. I'm just that more vigilant about paying attention to it. ----------------------------------------
|
Hi Dick,
Yep, same scales!? I cut one down to fit the Y axis on my mill.? I've read that the stainless-steel rules are a different kettle of fish -- some have resorted to using an abrasive cut-off wheel to cut them down to size.
My main issue with the 3 on my mill is their battery life.? I found that particular DRO version draws more current than more-recent designs, at least when the display is on.? I've got a solution for that but haven't completed it yet.
It's good to hear that your DROs are still working OK.
-Mark
|
David Evans
OldToolmaker
Ralph Lehotsky
Les Orton
MZ Rider