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For my needs, the LMS kit lacked extended travel away from the operator. I need to be able to move the tool holder past the chuck for a part I make. I have a fixture in a quick change tool holder that

Ryan H wrote: I have a mill, several. Curious what was lacking in the LMS kit?? it seems to achieve both more travel and relocating the travel.? The same as "the Mike route".? Obviously it's $$$

I just finished up? an extended travel mod on my 7x a couple days ago. ?? I don't have access to a mill to cut the carriage and the LMS kit only addressed part of what I wanted to do so I did it

My understanding is that the Gordon Scott mod moves the effective range of the leadscrew towards the operator (so you can cut wider material since you've moved the cut position relative to spindle).?

I did Gordon Scott's method years ago & have been pleased with it. Roy

A wrap or 2 of adhesive backed aluminum tape (real duct tape) around the work or on the ends of the chuck jaws. Pet peeve - there's no need to quench brass to anneal it! About the only things you're

I replied to an ancient post.? My bad.? ?Brain in neutral.? Ignore.

You probably paid for it when you paid for your inside track membership. It’s 10% to us losers that don’t join their club. Sent from Mail for Windows Sent: Sunday, February 20, 2022 6:29 PM To:

I need to machine some wider material. Googling I can find lots of approaches and I'm struggling with what is considered the best approach in 2022 (ideas tend to evolve). Gordon Scotts:

Hi Ades workshop He is starting a mini lathe work over A different take https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nFXBD3YxEa4 Dennis

After cleaning the metal chips out of the gears in the apron; I used my scroll saw to make a plastic cover for the gears. To grease the gears I used some Mobil synthetic grease. Now the carriage moves

You make a good point, Mark! As long as it is performing to your satisfaction all is well. Over time the saddle should settle into a comfortable spot on it’s own.

Update. I found some adjustment issues with my saddle's shimmed slide plates (say that 3 times fast!).? Their mounting screws had loosened up a bit over time, permitting the saddle to ride up a bit

John, I was in the process of performing RDM when I found the issue described in my original post.? Since the saddle is unstable there was no point in continuing with RDM until I figure out what's

Mark, I ran into saddle slop and found it was caused by ridges in the carriage "V" on my lathe. It is worth checking for this since it is easy to detect and fix.? See:

I hand scraped all the sliding surfaces of the carriage and cross slide on my 7x16. I was also able to get the cross slide scraped square so I am able to face square with .0002” concavity over 1”.

I agree with Roy. The top surface of the bed is the only precision ground part of the machine, so don't lap or modify it. What you do is use the surface of the bed as your reference for modifying

Some good comments!? ? ?Give me more homework :)

Mark, I think .005” variation is a lot over 10”. I think it sounds as if there is a issue with the fit of the saddle as you eluded to. Is the saddle pivoting or twisting on the ways? If so, do you

The top of the bed is surface ground at the factory - it's the? reference surface for everything on the lathe. The mating surfaces on the carriage & HS are NOT ground & may well be misaligned. Check