Re: Saddle/Carriage adjustments
I stopped using white lithium grease loooong ago. It tends to become a bit hard and not lube. I changed to synthetic heavy duty grease. Much much better.
George
On Tuesday, February 1, 2022, 02:21:49 PM PST, Stan Gammons via groups.io <buttercup11421@...> wrote:
I decided to take the apron off this afternoon and may have found
the problem or part of the problem.? When I turn the carriage hand
wheel with the apron off, there's a spot that offers some resistance
to turning. There are some metal shavings inside the apron and gears
too. Maybe a good cleaning and making a cover for the gears is in
order. I have a piece of .05" thick plaskolite that I could use for
that purpose.? With the apron off, the carriage moves back and forth
pretty well. I don't have the experience to know if it's too snug.
I'll see how easily the carriage moves once I get the apron cleaned
and put back on. I assume white lithium grease is what I should use
on the gears?
Stan
On 1/31/22 23:11, Bill Williams wrote:
Bruce, it is not being a broken record when
what you are saying is worthwhile advise. And I completely
agree that Ted Hansen’s book is very worthwhile and very
reasonably priced. Check out “Machine Tool Reconditioning” for
a shock! Any minilathe owner
Could profit from some of the projects he
very clearly describes. And as for HSM references, I completed
my collection by purchasing the first six issues. A complete
collection is easy if you started 39 years ago!?? Bill in
Boulder
?
Sent from for Windows 10
?
From:
Bruce J
Sent: Monday, January 31, 2022 20:22
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] Saddle/Carriage
adjustments
?
I kinda feel like a broken record on this
subject :-) but Ted Hansen's ‘Complete MiniLathe Workshop’
(available from Village Press
?) has a discussion of this very problem, and two solutions:
one quick and dirty, basically shimming the existing saddle
plates to provide better contact, and a more robust fix,
switching to u-shaped saddle plates, similar to those on
bigger lathes like South Bend, that considerably improves the
rigidity of the mini lathe.?
Also a custom wrench: a bit of an allen
wrench brazed to the top of a C-shaped piece of rod,
allowing you to tighten the saddle plate screws without
removing the front apron.?
I find myself again wishing they’d sell
HSM in digital archive form, because there’s all sorts of
references out there to this or that other back issue and
it would really be nice to be able to just call it up,
instead of having to troll through eBay for some
well-thumbed old copy.?
All my woodworking magazines offer this
and it’s very convenient. ?
I’d even be happy with just an online
access instead of a portable copy.?
?
Thanks
everyone for the replies on this.? The backsplash is
still in place. I'll remove it and see if I can
adjust the carriage so it moves easier once I have
some more time.
Stan
On 1/31/22 08:53, GadgetBuilder
wrote:
The adjustment scheme for the
carriage slide plates works better on large lathes
than it does on our small machines.? Most 7X
owners find that shimming the slide plates is easy
and works well.? In addition, it often helps
considerably to refine the bed thickness where the
slide plates run.? See:
John
?
--?
Bruce Johnson
The less a man
knows about how sausages and laws are made, the
easier it is to steal his vote and give him
botulism.
?
|
Re: Saddle/Carriage adjustments
Stan, a question that has been in the back of my mind for a while is “Is it possible to seal the apron well enough to hold oil for lubrication of the geartrain?” The oil level would need be only high enough for the lowest gear to just dip into the oil. I would follow up on this idea but my handwheel feed is working so well unmodified that I hate to rock the boat!?? Bill ? Sent from for Windows 10 ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: Stan Gammons via groups.ioSent: Tuesday, February 1, 2022 15:21 To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] Saddle/Carriage adjustments ? I decided to take the apron off this afternoon and may have found the problem or part of the problem.? When I turn the carriage hand wheel with the apron off, there's a spot that offers some resistance to turning. There are some metal shavings inside the apron and gears too. Maybe a good cleaning and making a cover for the gears is in order. I have a piece of .05" thick plaskolite that I could use for that purpose.? With the apron off, the carriage moves back and forth pretty well. I don't have the experience to know if it's too snug. I'll see how easily the carriage moves once I get the apron cleaned and put back on. I assume white lithium grease is what I should use on the gears?
Stan
?
|
Re: MSC Free Shipping Codes ??
MSC has a OneStop program, where you get free ground shipping on orders over $49 (looks like small items, no big hunks of iron, etc.) and no promo code pricing on items.
I don't recall how I got on the proram, but you can check out
I read you don't have any program fees and no renewal is required, I think you just become a regular customer.
On Tue, Feb 1, 2022 at 11:55 AM Michael Jablonski < michaeljab@...> wrote: Haven’t seen any codes in a while, but Free shipping kicks in automatically when you buy $199 or more. ? Yeah… my feelings exactly. ? Michael - California, USA Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16 LMS 3990 Hi-Torque Mill with power feed ? ? ? ? Does MSC send out free shipping codes anymore???
They used to send out a free shipping code for a $99 order, and very rarely a $50 order. But I have not seen a code in quite a while.
Regards,
Kevin Jones
|
Re: Saddle/Carriage adjustments
I decided to take the apron off this afternoon and may have found
the problem or part of the problem.? When I turn the carriage hand
wheel with the apron off, there's a spot that offers some resistance
to turning. There are some metal shavings inside the apron and gears
too. Maybe a good cleaning and making a cover for the gears is in
order. I have a piece of .05" thick plaskolite that I could use for
that purpose.? With the apron off, the carriage moves back and forth
pretty well. I don't have the experience to know if it's too snug.
I'll see how easily the carriage moves once I get the apron cleaned
and put back on. I assume white lithium grease is what I should use
on the gears?
Stan
On 1/31/22 23:11, Bill Williams wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Bruce, it is not being a broken record when
what you are saying is worthwhile advise. And I completely
agree that Ted Hansen’s book is very worthwhile and very
reasonably priced. Check out “Machine Tool Reconditioning” for
a shock! Any minilathe owner
Could profit from some of the projects he
very clearly describes. And as for HSM references, I completed
my collection by purchasing the first six issues. A complete
collection is easy if you started 39 years ago!?? Bill in
Boulder
?
Sent from for Windows 10
?
From:
Bruce J
Sent: Monday, January 31, 2022 20:22
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] Saddle/Carriage
adjustments
?
I kinda feel like a broken record on this
subject :-) but Ted Hansen's ‘Complete MiniLathe Workshop’
(available from Village Press
?) has a discussion of this very problem, and two solutions:
one quick and dirty, basically shimming the existing saddle
plates to provide better contact, and a more robust fix,
switching to u-shaped saddle plates, similar to those on
bigger lathes like South Bend, that considerably improves the
rigidity of the mini lathe.?
Also a custom wrench: a bit of an allen
wrench brazed to the top of a C-shaped piece of rod,
allowing you to tighten the saddle plate screws without
removing the front apron.?
I find myself again wishing they’d sell
HSM in digital archive form, because there’s all sorts of
references out there to this or that other back issue and
it would really be nice to be able to just call it up,
instead of having to troll through eBay for some
well-thumbed old copy.?
All my woodworking magazines offer this
and it’s very convenient. ?
I’d even be happy with just an online
access instead of a portable copy.?
?
Thanks
everyone for the replies on this.? The backsplash is
still in place. I'll remove it and see if I can
adjust the carriage so it moves easier once I have
some more time.
Stan
On 1/31/22 08:53, GadgetBuilder
wrote:
The adjustment scheme for the
carriage slide plates works better on large lathes
than it does on our small machines.? Most 7X
owners find that shimming the slide plates is easy
and works well.? In addition, it often helps
considerably to refine the bed thickness where the
slide plates run.? See:
John
?
--?
Bruce Johnson
The less a man
knows about how sausages and laws are made, the
easier it is to steal his vote and give him
botulism.
?
|
Re: MSC Free Shipping Codes ??
Haven’t seen any codes in a while, but Free shipping kicks in automatically when you buy $199 or more. ? Yeah… my feelings exactly. ? Michael - California, USA Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16 LMS 3990 Hi-Torque Mill with power feed ? ? ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of Kevin Jones Sent: Tuesday, February 1, 2022 5:35 AM To: [email protected]Subject: [7x12MiniLathe] MSC Free Shipping Codes ?? ? Does MSC send out free shipping codes anymore???
They used to send out a free shipping code for a $99 order, and very rarely a $50 order. But I have not seen a code in quite a while.
Regards,
Kevin Jones
|
Re: Unwanted taper when turning
Yep Bruce, on my list of wants after I get a live / rotating center. :-)
On Feb 1, 2022, 1:06 PM -0500, Bruce J <bruce.desertrat@...>, wrote:
This is precisely the use case for a following rest.?
On Feb 1, 2022, at 10:34 AM, Ryan H via < ifly172@...> wrote:
Okay, I'll tell, I was doing a piece about a foot long and 3/8" dia and the ends were spot on but the shaft was larger in the center when I measured all along it. I was cutting towards the head, backing the tool out, moving the carriage back to the right and then doing my next pass after advancing the tool in.?
--?
Bruce Johnson
"Wherever you go, there you are." B. Banzai, PhD
|
Re: Unwanted taper when turning
This is precisely the use case for a following rest.? On Feb 1, 2022, at 10:34 AM, Ryan H via < ifly172@...> wrote:
Okay, I'll tell, I was doing a piece about a foot long and 3/8" dia and the ends were spot on but the shaft was larger in the center when I measured all along it. I was cutting towards the head, backing the tool out, moving the carriage back to the right and then doing my next pass after advancing the tool in.?
--? Bruce Johnson
"Wherever you go, there you are." B. Banzai, PhD
|
Re: Unwanted taper when turning
One thing I'll to what Chris said about holding the work in the chuck at one end the other with a center... You can end up with a "thick" spot in the center working with long thin material. Again, it can deflect away from the tool if you're trying to take too much material off per pass. Don't ask me how I know, LOL. Okay, I'll tell, I was doing a piece about a foot long and 3/8" dia and the ends were spot on but the shaft was larger in the center when I measured all along it. I was cutting towards the head, backing the tool out, moving the carriage back to the right and then doing my next pass after advancing the tool in. Everything looked good. I found the issue was from deflection when I backed to carriage across without retracting the tool and it cut in the center of the work. Several spring passes and the rod was the correct diameter the whole way. Just something I recently learned that I wanted to pass along.?
Ryan
On Feb 1, 2022, 12:07 PM -0500, Chris Albertson <albertson.chris@...>, wrote:
Many good suggestions on how to do better works, but none that address taper.
For example the tool.? Good ones cut better but let's say I make a tool bit by putting a drill bit in a vice and breaking it with a hammer and try to turn metalw iththe?jagged end.? It would be a horrible tool but uniformly horrible as it moves left to right
Same applies to a poorly chucked stock.? Lets say I place a square stock on a four jaw chuck and it is so "unstraight" I can see it from across the room.? After turning, it will be perfectly concentric the spin axis
I think there are only a few ways to cause taper
1) the stock deflects when cut, one end is unsupported?and you are taking cuts so deep that the stock deflects or
2) the carriage?is not parallel?to the spindle axis
3) A tailstock is used to short?the stock but the tailstock center is displaced from the spindle axis
Check for #3 with a razor blade. place a dead-center in the tailstock and spindle and move the points together?until?they almost touch.? Place some very thin and hard matter (like an old-style razor blade) between the point and if you can hold it there at 90 degrees.? It needs to be dead-on perfect to do this.
Mving the tailstock off center is the usual wy to?make an intentional taper.? Make sure you are not doing this
Then #2, after adjusting as above, support a rod from both ends and make a cut all the way.? If the work is held between centers there is no way it can have a taper, even if the spindle points away from the bed.
But sometimes?you want to use just?a chuck to hold the part.? You need to measure that the spindle is point down the bad.? ? Place a precision bar in the chuck and adjust out all the runout using a dial indicator.? This takes time.? ? ?Then you can see of the garage runs parallel to the "dialed in" bar.
Yes it is nice to have correct cut tool bits bt really all modern shops use carbide inserts
On Mon, Jan 31, 2022 at 11:53 AM Michael Jablonski < michaeljab@...> wrote: You are using carriage handwheel to advance the carriage, and not the
compound to advance the cutter. Your photo almost looks like your compound
is set at an angle, and you are feeding using the compound instead of the
carriage. Another possibility is that you have a lot of slop in your cross
slide and/or compound. Have you tried locking the cross slide and compound
by tightening one of the gibs on them both? Also check the carriage. See if
you can grab the left and right sides, and try to twist, lift, rotate, see
if there is any movement in it that needs to be addressed. And as others
have stated, no back rake on the cutter when cutting brass.
Michael - California, USA
Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16
LMS 3990 Hi-Torque Mill with power feed
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Jack
Lunn via
Sent: Sunday, January 30, 2022 2:33 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [7x12MiniLathe] Unwanted taper when turning
Just getting started with a new to me HF 7X10 (extended to 16).? Trying to
practice on brass and the bit “digs” in as i move the saddle to the left.
This results in an inward taper.? I’ve tried to adjust the cross slide to
remove any play.? What should i check?
Thank you for any assistance!
Attachments:
image0.jpeg: /g/7x12MiniLathe/attachment/115637/0
--
Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
|
Re: Saddle/Carriage adjustments
I noticed that Steve's carriage is straight on the sides across the length of the carriage, whereas most of us have an H cast carriage.? This can be overcome with some filler blocks to fill out the sides and some cleanup milling of the H casting - but adds a little more complexity to the machine work.
ralphie
|
Re: Unwanted taper when turning
Many good suggestions on how to do better works, but none that address taper.
For example the tool.? Good ones cut better but let's say I make a tool bit by putting a drill bit in a vice and breaking it with a hammer and try to turn metalw iththe?jagged end.? It would be a horrible tool but uniformly horrible as it moves left to right
Same applies to a poorly chucked stock.? Lets say I place a square stock on a four jaw chuck and it is so "unstraight" I can see it from across the room.? After turning, it will be perfectly concentric the spin axis
I think there are only a few ways to cause taper 1) the stock deflects when cut, one end is unsupported?and you are taking cuts so deep that the stock deflects or 2) the carriage?is not parallel?to the spindle axis 3) A tailstock is used to short?the stock but the tailstock center is displaced from the spindle axis
Check for #3 with a razor blade. place a dead-center in the tailstock and spindle and move the points together?until?they almost touch.? Place some very thin and hard matter (like an old-style razor blade) between the point and if you can hold it there at 90 degrees.? It needs to be dead-on perfect to do this.
Mving the tailstock off center is the usual wy to?make an intentional taper.? Make sure you are not doing this
Then #2, after adjusting as above, support a rod from both ends and make a cut all the way.? If the work is held between centers there is no way it can have a taper, even if the spindle points away from the bed.
But sometimes?you want to use just?a chuck to hold the part.? You need to measure that the spindle is point down the bad.? ? Place a precision bar in the chuck and adjust out all the runout using a dial indicator.? This takes time.? ? ?Then you can see of the garage runs parallel to the "dialed in" bar.
Yes it is nice to have correct cut tool bits bt really all modern shops use carbide inserts
On Mon, Jan 31, 2022 at 11:53 AM Michael Jablonski < michaeljab@...> wrote: You are using carriage handwheel to advance the carriage, and not the
compound to advance the cutter. Your photo almost looks like your compound
is set at an angle, and you are feeding using the compound instead of the
carriage. Another possibility is that you have a lot of slop in your cross
slide and/or compound. Have you tried locking the cross slide and compound
by tightening one of the gibs on them both? Also check the carriage. See if
you can grab the left and right sides, and try to twist, lift, rotate, see
if there is any movement in it that needs to be addressed. And as others
have stated, no back rake on the cutter when cutting brass.
Michael - California, USA
Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16
LMS 3990 Hi-Torque Mill with power feed
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Jack
Lunn via
Sent: Sunday, January 30, 2022 2:33 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [7x12MiniLathe] Unwanted taper when turning
Just getting started with a new to me HF 7X10 (extended to 16).? Trying to
practice on brass and the bit “digs” in as i move the saddle to the left.
This results in an inward taper.? I’ve tried to adjust the cross slide to
remove any play.? What should i check?
Thank you for any assistance!
Attachments:
image0.jpeg: /g/7x12MiniLathe/attachment/115637/0
--
Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
|
Re: Saddle/Carriage adjustments
Stan,
In my opinion Steve Jordan from the UK has one of the most solid setups out there. Here is his carriage/saddle upgrade video, he has many more.
- Jonathan
On Monday, January 31, 2022, 07:41:14 PM PST, Stan Gammons via groups.io <buttercup11421@...> wrote:
Hi Bruce,
I have that book. What you are talking about is in chapter 5. I've
considered doing that but being a newbie I've been a bit
apprehensive about trying some of the upgrades/mods I've read about.
I'm not so comfortable with trying to true surfaces by scraping
that's described in chapter 11.
I don't subscribe to HSM, but yes it would be nice if they would
offer back issues in PDF format that could be downloaded from their
website. Perhaps even a DVD of all issues from the beginning up to
the current issue. Yeah, I'm dreaming...
Stan
On 1/31/22 21:21, Bruce J wrote:
I kinda feel like a broken record on this subject :-) but Ted
Hansen's ‘Complete MiniLathe Workshop’ (available from Village
Press
?) has a discussion of this very problem, and two solutions: one
quick and dirty, basically shimming the existing saddle plates to
provide better contact, and a more robust fix, switching to
u-shaped saddle plates, similar to those on bigger lathes like
South Bend, that considerably improves the rigidity of the mini
lathe.?
Also a custom wrench: a bit of an allen wrench
brazed to the top of a C-shaped piece of rod, allowing you to
tighten the saddle plate screws without removing the front
apron.?
I find myself again wishing they’d sell HSM in digital
archive form, because there’s all sorts of references out
there to this or that other back issue and it would really be
nice to be able to just call it up, instead of having to troll
through eBay for some well-thumbed old copy.?
All my woodworking magazines offer this and it’s very
convenient. ?
I’d even be happy with just an online access instead of a
portable copy.?
Thanks everyone for the replies on this.?
The backsplash is still in place. I'll remove it and see
if I can adjust the carriage so it moves easier once I
have some more time.
Stan
On 1/31/22 08:53,
GadgetBuilder wrote:
The adjustment scheme for the carriage slide plates
works better on large lathes than it does on our small
machines.? Most 7X owners find that shimming the slide
plates is easy and works well.? In addition, it often
helps considerably to refine the bed thickness where
the slide plates run.? See:
John
--?
Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are
made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him
botulism.
|
MSC Free Shipping Codes ??
Does MSC send out free shipping codes anymore???
They used to send out a free shipping code for a $99 order, and very rarely a $50 order. But I have not seen a code in quite a while.
Regards,
Kevin Jones
|
Re: RideTheGearTran has a new feature
Hi Everyone, Well that is a LOT of very helpful feedback. I really appreciate it.? A lot of the points are things that I have thought about. I have been thinking of considering the number of turns on the thread in the information about torque/stress/strain etc, but I really like this comment from Chris, as I hadn't twigged to it:
?As soon as the amount of metal is the same as the screw's minor diameter cross-section then the threads?are as strong as the screw
I will incorporate that when I finish my next topic on turning tapers by the tailstock offset method. There are a lot of ways to skin a cat and many of them are easier than pulling up an online program. I find I do just remember the common metric ?sizes. The object of the percent tables is to give a hobbyist an idea about whether the non-ideal drill he happens to have is good enough. If it gives 30% thread depth or 100% it probably isn't good enough and it may be time to buy the right drill. It is more problematic with small threads. I wanted to mount a carbide tip which has an M2.5 x 0.45 thread which requires a 2.2mm drill. It seems too expensive to buy the right drill and tap for a single screw. The program made that clear. So I will redesign the ball turner with a clamp to hold the carbide tip. RideTheGearTrain needs the thread pitch to calculate the gear train. As an improvement to the program I decided to include some standard thread tables so that the user could easily find the pitch. ?Then I realized that these thread tables include a lot of extra information, which I started playing with. The specs in these tables include the flat or radius at the root and crest of the profile as well as the angle. ?Those are taken into account in calculating the thread depth. Then the depth can be used in calculating percentage thread depth for drill sizes. So it all grew like Topsy.? I am not an engineer, but a hospital doctor and computer programmer and inherited a lathe from my father in 2014. So the feedback is important to make sure my ideas aren't plain wrong! ?So thanks everyone for the tips! Oh yes, I will read this too; http://tapmatic.com/tapping_questions_torque_vs_thread_strength.ydevEvan Lathe: 1955 Boxford Model A with screw cutting gearbox and power feed. My Free Online Geartrain Software: My YouTube Channel and Playlist about using an engineers lathe: ? Project to build a Greek Hero steam engine and measure its power output:?
|
Re: Saddle/Carriage adjustments
I remember Ted Hansen's article about correcting the carriage when it appeared in Home Shop Machinist. If the book is the same, I was not impressed.? In the HSM article, Hansen designed an additional gizmo to help the carriage stay straight, but that ignores the real problem.
The problem is the original gizmo that's on there -- the spring-loaded device?that holds the carriage down on the minilathe bed. It's a Mickey Mouse design, but it's there for a reason.? The factory didn't machine the underside of the bed, which was left as a rough cast iron surface. This surface didn't have a constant distance from the top surface of the bed, so the spring device compensated for that by pulling the carriage down no matter what the thickness?of the?bed was.
But the?real solution isn't to keep this gizmo or to add extra?gizmos, but to get?the underside of the bed parallel to the top side. Then you can? get rid of the spring loaded device and use shims to adjust the keeper plates. I did that decades?ago, and my carriage remains smooth and shake-free, and so stable I haven't needed to adjust the shims in years.
Here?(Under the section called "the carriage") is a link to the procedure that I used in 2002, which Frank Hoose conveniently put on his? site:? ?? I'd mostly do it the same now, but there are a few changes I would make:
1. First, I did this on? my?original 2002 bed, which was very bad, but some newer beds are much better and don't require much lapping (or perhaps any lapping). About 5 years ago I replaced my original 10" bed with a 14" bed from LMS, and I was pleased to discover that the underside of the bed was finished pretty well.? But those beds are part of the 14" bed kits that LMS sells. I don't know if the typical beds sold on minilathes are as good as that.
2.? In these directions, I used Mother's Metal Polish, which is extremely fine.? That was tedious and took hours, but I was trying to do it really slowly because I was inventing the procedure as I went along and wanted to be able to catch myself if I was screwing up.? Now this method is fairly well known, and I would recommend valve-grinding compound instead.
3.? Also, I should stress that this is to lap the UNDERSIDE of the lathe bed, NOT the top of the bed, which is precision ground.? The top side should be kept clean and lubricated, but no abrasive should get there at any time.
4. Finally, lapping two things together with abrasive always changes both surfaces, so you're changing the keeper plates also.? You don't want those changed, but this isn't a problem because they can easily be flattened on sandpaper after the lapping is over.
Mike Taglieri
On Mon, Jan 31, 2022, 10:41 PM Stan Gammons via <buttercup11421= [email protected]> wrote:
Hi Bruce,
I have that book. What you are talking about is in chapter 5. I've
considered doing that but being a newbie I've been a bit
apprehensive about trying some of the upgrades/mods I've read about.
I'm not so comfortable with trying to true surfaces by scraping
that's described in chapter 11.
I don't subscribe to HSM, but yes it would be nice if they would
offer back issues in PDF format that could be downloaded from their
website. Perhaps even a DVD of all issues from the beginning up to
the current issue. Yeah, I'm dreaming...
Stan
On 1/31/22 21:21, Bruce J wrote:
I kinda feel like a broken record on this subject :-) but Ted
Hansen's ‘Complete MiniLathe Workshop’ (available from Village
Press
?) has a discussion of this very problem, and two solutions: one
quick and dirty, basically shimming the existing saddle plates to
provide better contact, and a more robust fix, switching to
u-shaped saddle plates, similar to those on bigger lathes like
South Bend, that considerably improves the rigidity of the mini
lathe.?
Also a custom wrench: a bit of an allen wrench
brazed to the top of a C-shaped piece of rod, allowing you to
tighten the saddle plate screws without removing the front
apron.?
I find myself again wishing they’d sell HSM in digital
archive form, because there’s all sorts of references out
there to this or that other back issue and it would really be
nice to be able to just call it up, instead of having to troll
through eBay for some well-thumbed old copy.?
All my woodworking magazines offer this and it’s very
convenient. ?
I’d even be happy with just an online access instead of a
portable copy.?
Thanks everyone for the replies on this.?
The backsplash is still in place. I'll remove it and see
if I can adjust the carriage so it moves easier once I
have some more time.
Stan
On 1/31/22 08:53,
GadgetBuilder wrote:
The adjustment scheme for the carriage slide plates
works better on large lathes than it does on our small
machines.? Most 7X owners find that shimming the slide
plates is easy and works well.? In addition, it often
helps considerably to refine the bed thickness where
the slide plates run.? See:
John
--?
Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are
made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him
botulism.
|
Re: Saddle/Carriage adjustments
Bruce, it is not being a broken record when what you are saying is worthwhile advise. And I completely agree that Ted Hansen’s book is very worthwhile and very reasonably priced. Check out “Machine Tool Reconditioning” for a shock! Any minilathe owner Could profit from some of the projects he very clearly describes. And as for HSM references, I completed my collection by purchasing the first six issues. A complete collection is easy if you started 39 years ago!?? Bill in Boulder ? Sent from for Windows 10 ?
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From: Bruce JSent: Monday, January 31, 2022 20:22 To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] Saddle/Carriage adjustments ? I kinda feel like a broken record on this subject :-) but Ted Hansen's ‘Complete MiniLathe Workshop’ (available from Village Press ?) has a discussion of this very problem, and two solutions: one quick and dirty, basically shimming the existing saddle plates to provide better contact, and a more robust fix, switching to u-shaped saddle plates, similar to those on bigger lathes like South Bend, that considerably improves the rigidity of the mini lathe.? Also a custom wrench: a bit of an allen wrench brazed to the top of a C-shaped piece of rod, allowing you to tighten the saddle plate screws without removing the front apron.? I find myself again wishing they’d sell HSM in digital archive form, because there’s all sorts of references out there to this or that other back issue and it would really be nice to be able to just call it up, instead of having to troll through eBay for some well-thumbed old copy.? All my woodworking magazines offer this and it’s very convenient. ? I’d even be happy with just an online access instead of a portable copy.?
? Thanks everyone for the replies on this.? The backsplash is still in place. I'll remove it and see if I can adjust the carriage so it moves easier once I have some more time.
Stan
On 1/31/22 08:53, GadgetBuilder wrote: The adjustment scheme for the carriage slide plates works better on large lathes than it does on our small machines.? Most 7X owners find that shimming the slide plates is easy and works well.? In addition, it often helps considerably to refine the bed thickness where the slide plates run.? See:
John
? --?
Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism. ?
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Re: Saddle/Carriage adjustments
Hi Bruce,
I have that book. What you are talking about is in chapter 5. I've
considered doing that but being a newbie I've been a bit
apprehensive about trying some of the upgrades/mods I've read about.
I'm not so comfortable with trying to true surfaces by scraping
that's described in chapter 11.
I don't subscribe to HSM, but yes it would be nice if they would
offer back issues in PDF format that could be downloaded from their
website. Perhaps even a DVD of all issues from the beginning up to
the current issue. Yeah, I'm dreaming...
Stan
On 1/31/22 21:21, Bruce J wrote:
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I kinda feel like a broken record on this subject :-) but Ted
Hansen's ‘Complete MiniLathe Workshop’ (available from Village
Press
?) has a discussion of this very problem, and two solutions: one
quick and dirty, basically shimming the existing saddle plates to
provide better contact, and a more robust fix, switching to
u-shaped saddle plates, similar to those on bigger lathes like
South Bend, that considerably improves the rigidity of the mini
lathe.?
Also a custom wrench: a bit of an allen wrench
brazed to the top of a C-shaped piece of rod, allowing you to
tighten the saddle plate screws without removing the front
apron.?
I find myself again wishing they’d sell HSM in digital
archive form, because there’s all sorts of references out
there to this or that other back issue and it would really be
nice to be able to just call it up, instead of having to troll
through eBay for some well-thumbed old copy.?
All my woodworking magazines offer this and it’s very
convenient. ?
I’d even be happy with just an online access instead of a
portable copy.?
Thanks everyone for the replies on this.?
The backsplash is still in place. I'll remove it and see
if I can adjust the carriage so it moves easier once I
have some more time.
Stan
On 1/31/22 08:53,
GadgetBuilder wrote:
The adjustment scheme for the carriage slide plates
works better on large lathes than it does on our small
machines.? Most 7X owners find that shimming the slide
plates is easy and works well.? In addition, it often
helps considerably to refine the bed thickness where
the slide plates run.? See:
John
--?
Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are
made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him
botulism.
|
Re: Saddle/Carriage adjustments
I kinda feel like a broken record on this subject :-) but Ted Hansen's ‘Complete MiniLathe Workshop’ (available from Village Press ?) has a discussion of this very problem, and two solutions: one quick and dirty, basically shimming the existing saddle plates to provide better contact, and a more robust fix, switching to u-shaped saddle plates, similar to those on bigger lathes like South Bend, that considerably improves the rigidity of the mini lathe.?
Also a custom wrench: a bit of an allen wrench brazed to the top of a C-shaped piece of rod, allowing you to tighten the saddle plate screws without removing the front apron.?
I find myself again wishing they’d sell HSM in digital archive form, because there’s all sorts of references out there to this or that other back issue and it would really be nice to be able to just call it up, instead of having to troll through eBay for some well-thumbed old copy.?
All my woodworking magazines offer this and it’s very convenient. ?
I’d even be happy with just an online access instead of a portable copy.?
Thanks everyone for the replies on this.? The backsplash is still in
place. I'll remove it and see if I can adjust the carriage so it
moves easier once I have some more time.
Stan
On 1/31/22 08:53, GadgetBuilder wrote:
The adjustment scheme for the carriage slide plates works better
on large lathes than it does on our small machines.? Most 7X
owners find that shimming the slide plates is easy and works
well.? In addition, it often helps considerably to refine the bed
thickness where the slide plates run.? See:
John
--?
Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.
|
Re: Saddle/Carriage adjustments
Thanks everyone for the replies on this.? The backsplash is still in
place. I'll remove it and see if I can adjust the carriage so it
moves easier once I have some more time.
Stan
On 1/31/22 08:53, GadgetBuilder wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
The adjustment scheme for the carriage slide plates works better
on large lathes than it does on our small machines.? Most 7X
owners find that shimming the slide plates is easy and works
well.? In addition, it often helps considerably to refine the bed
thickness where the slide plates run.? See:
John
_._,_._,_
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Re: Unwanted taper when turning
Thank you all for the suggestions. I’d summarize them as:
- Turn between centers (I wasn’t) / Don’t extend the work to far (I was based on Ryan’s description)
- Check cutting tool (I will take a pic, but I don’t think it was ground for brass)
- Check headstock alignment. (Are we talking about using Rollie’s Dads Method or is there a step I should do before that? I’ve been doing some reading about it).
- Check compound angle
- Check slop
Some answers for the questions asked:
- Material diameter is 1/4 inch
- I was using the carriage hand wheel to move the cutter. I have the compound slide locked tight
- As far as depth of cut, I’m figuring that out. My cross slide is pretty tight and right now I’m having a hard time figuring out exactly what I’m doing as far as depth. I was just trying to make a chip and backing off if it didn’t work.
I’ll make some adjustments and let the group know how it goes. Again, thank you for the responses.
Jack
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Re: Unwanted taper when turning
I agree, it sounds like the cutter is "not dubbed" on top rake as we used to call it, grind it neutral correct and it shouldn't "suck in", same idea with drill bits in brass and bronze, the taper you are showing is the possibly the backlash in the cross slide being taken up as the cutter pulls the slide in
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BuffaloJohn
Ralph Lehotsky
Evan
