A while back¡ I did the same thing on a 8x12(14) lathe they
sell..
?
It as ¡®on sale¡¯¡? I walked in with a 20% coupon and ordered my
new lathe for like $379 out the door@!
?
?
That lathe now goes for $999.99 in the website..
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of Sherbundy, James
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2013 2:48 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] 20% H F coupon
?
?
That¡¯s an even better deal.? They
had a floor model here too but it was in really bad shape and I don¡¯t think I
would want it for half price.? The various controls (motion control knobs)
had at least the equivalent of 0.25¡± of equivalent turning before anything
started to move the other direction.? HaHa
?
Jim
?
From:
7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On
Behalf Of Robert Furmanak
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2013 1:14 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] 20% H F coupon
?
?
I bought my mini lathe as a display
model for 20% off PLUS 20% off with the coupon! PLUS it was on sale ( a few
years ago ) for $399.? I walked out with a new lathe for? $255.36
plus tax.
?
From:
7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On
Behalf Of Sherbundy, James
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2013 12:45 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] 20% H F coupon
?
?
Same
deal for me in Cleveland. Seemed to good to be true, so I called their 800
number and they confirmed it could be used. At the checkout, ?the coupon
scanned just fine. I was ready to argue if necesssry. ?Now I spent all if
my savings and some more on LMS goodies.
Jim?
-------- Original message --------
From: Dave Beck <dbex@...>
Date: 02/11/2013 12:28 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: minilathe list <7x12minilathe@...>
Subject: [7x12minilathe] 20% H F coupon
?
I bought one at HF Houston a couple weeks ago and got
both sale price and 20% off, but it took a half-hour wait while they found
someone to approve the 20% coupon. Net cost $399
|
That¡¯s an even better deal.? They had a floor model here too but it was in really bad shape and I don¡¯t think I would want it for half price.? The various controls
(motion control knobs) had at least the equivalent of 0.25¡± of equivalent turning before anything started to move the other direction.? HaHa
?
Jim
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]
On Behalf Of Robert Furmanak
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2013 1:14 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] 20% H F coupon
?
?
I bought my mini lathe as a display model for 20% off PLUS 20% off with the coupon! PLUS it was on sale ( a few years ago ) for $399.?
I walked out with a new lathe for? $255.36 plus tax.
?
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]
On Behalf Of Sherbundy, James
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2013 12:45 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] 20% H F coupon
?
?
Same deal for me in Cleveland. Seemed to good to be true, so I called their 800 number and they confirmed it could be used. At the checkout, ?the coupon scanned just fine. I was
ready to argue if necesssry. ?Now I spent all if my savings and some more on LMS goodies.
Jim?
-------- Original message --------
From: Dave Beck <dbex@...>
Date: 02/11/2013 12:28 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: minilathe list <7x12minilathe@...>
Subject: [7x12minilathe] 20% H F coupon
?
I bought one at HF Houston a couple weeks ago and got both sale price and 20% off, but it took a half-hour wait while they found someone to approve
the 20% coupon. Net cost $399
|
Re: Hello from Yellowknife
The Craftex looks like a Seig. ?Essentially the same machine as a Harbor Freight, Mico Mark, Grizzly, and Little Machine Shop (which has a much more powerful motor than the others.) ? Yes, it will run at 20 RPM, but the torque is minimal.? If that is a concern, get the LMS.? Or get a 7x14 or 7x16.? They all ?have motors at least 50 percent more powerful than the 7x10¡¯s or 12¡¯s.? Typically 500 watts vs. 300 in the Craftex.? The LMS uses a stepper motor which is much better at low RPM¡¯s? Probably more amenable to CNC¡¯ing, as well ? Overall, they are great starter lathes, and capable of reasonable precision.? I have modified mine considerably, and as such, have not yet outgrown it.? While I have not CNC¡¯d mine, I have put a DRO on it. ?
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From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of machspace
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2013 2:34 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Hello from Yellowknife? ?
Hey guys,
I'm about to purchase my first lathe, a mini-lathe, and hoping for a little guidance. I will be using the lathe for some learning and R&D in my home shop.
I was initially seeking a 7x12 lathe. However, recently I began looking for an 8x12 or 8x14 mini-lathe, as I read that they are better (more solid, accurate, etc.) than the 7x? and 9x? series lathes. I have no clue whether that's true. I'm finding it hard to find a selection of Canadian suppliers of 8x? units. So, now I am back to considering the 7x12 once again.
So, a few questions:
1. Is the Craftex CX704 lathe considered a good one in the 7x12 size?
2. When the 7x12 indicates 0-1100 and 0-2500 spindle speeds, can the lathe actually operate at speeds as low as 20 RPM say? If so, why cannot the 10x22 model do the same (specs indicate low ranges of 100 and 200 RPM)
3. Is the 7x12 easily CNC-able? Any idea of the cost & effort to do so? (I've already built a CNC machine, so I'm very familiar with the much of the fundamentals, G-code, stepper, controller, SolidWorks, etc.)
4. Does this seem like a good starting point for somebody just learning to use a lathe (I'm a professional engineer, 20+yrs experience, love to build stuff, etc.)?
My limitations are the amount of floor space I wish to dedicate to the lathe (7x12 seems great in this respect).
Any and all comments would be welcome.
Thank you!
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., R Thompson wrote:
>
> Hi Don,
>
> I've gone from I don't have room for a home lathe to being on the
> verge of buying a new Sherline. For what I envision doing, and that I
> have more confidence in North American and European products, with a
> little bit of a preference to employ people closer to home, its a good
> fit.
>
> But like you, I'll let my wife know how thrilled I'll be with this
> gift from her :-) That and I'll put in some overtime and find something
> for her that she wouldn't have purchased for herself, other than lathe
> attachments that is. Hmmm, maybe a milling machine.
>
> Now I have to find a source of working material at a reasonable
> price.
>
> BTW, I went to Bramalea Secondary School until 1972, were we had
> machine shop in grades 9 and 10.
>
> Ron
>
> On Thu, 2012-11-15 at 16:35 +0000, dvgraphicsca wrote:
> >
> > Ron
> > I bought the Busy Bee CX704 lathe and the DRO kit here in Toronto on
> > sale at $958 CDN tax included. I have it home and cleaned up but have
> > not yet installed the DRO kit. I put a large bow on it to remind my
> > wife that it is a Christmas present from her and not a crazy impulse
> > purchase on my part.
> >
> > It looks like a fairly easy learning curve headed my way as I
> > transition from my elderly Unimat DB200 that has served for 45 years
> > or so and will continue to do so in a reduced role.
> >
> > I have made a spot for it to reside in my little shop but lack the
> > muscle to get it there on my own so I am keeping an eye out for
> > neighbours that may be attracted to short lived employment in the
> > moving business with a tot or two of Scotch.
> >
> > Don Hamilton
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------------------------
> >
> > --- In 7x12minilathe@..., R Thompson wrote:
> > >
> > > Thanks Roy,
> > >
> > > I was thinking of putting off my purchase for now, maybe I should
> > > re-think it. They have a few books of interest, I hope that someone
> > > will continue to offer them at a reasonable price.
> > >
> > > Sometimes resisting the impulse buying urge means a missed
> > > opportunity. Its hard to know what to do.
> > >
> > > While on the subject of impulse buying, BusyBee Tools, which has a
> > > store in Edmonton (cheaper shipping to Yellowknife from there) > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
|
Re: Hello from Yellowknife
Hey guys,
I'm about to purchase my first lathe, a mini-lathe, and hoping for a little guidance. I will be using the lathe for some learning and R&D in my home shop.
I was initially seeking a 7x12 lathe. However, recently I began looking for an 8x12 or 8x14 mini-lathe, as I read that they are better (more solid, accurate, etc.) than the 7x? and 9x? series lathes. I have no clue whether that's true. I'm finding it hard to find a selection of Canadian suppliers of 8x? units. So, now I am back to considering the 7x12 once again.
So, a few questions:
1. Is the Craftex CX704 lathe considered a good one in the 7x12 size?
2. When the 7x12 indicates 0-1100 and 0-2500 spindle speeds, can the lathe actually operate at speeds as low as 20 RPM say? If so, why cannot the 10x22 model do the same (specs indicate low ranges of 100 and 200 RPM)
3. Is the 7x12 easily CNC-able? Any idea of the cost & effort to do so? (I've already built a CNC machine, so I'm very familiar with the much of the fundamentals, G-code, stepper, controller, SolidWorks, etc.)
4. Does this seem like a good starting point for somebody just learning to use a lathe (I'm a professional engineer, 20+yrs experience, love to build stuff, etc.)?
My limitations are the amount of floor space I wish to dedicate to the lathe (7x12 seems great in this respect).
Any and all comments would be welcome.
Thank you!
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., R Thompson wrote:
Hi Don,
I've gone from I don't have room for a home lathe to being on the
verge of buying a new Sherline. For what I envision doing, and that I
have more confidence in North American and European products, with a
little bit of a preference to employ people closer to home, its a good
fit.
But like you, I'll let my wife know how thrilled I'll be with this
gift from her :-) That and I'll put in some overtime and find something
for her that she wouldn't have purchased for herself, other than lathe
attachments that is. Hmmm, maybe a milling machine.
Now I have to find a source of working material at a reasonable
price.
BTW, I went to Bramalea Secondary School until 1972, were we had
machine shop in grades 9 and 10.
Ron
On Thu, 2012-11-15 at 16:35 +0000, dvgraphicsca wrote:
Ron
I bought the Busy Bee CX704 lathe and the DRO kit here in Toronto on
sale at $958 CDN tax included. I have it home and cleaned up but have
not yet installed the DRO kit. I put a large bow on it to remind my
wife that it is a Christmas present from her and not a crazy impulse
purchase on my part.
It looks like a fairly easy learning curve headed my way as I
transition from my elderly Unimat DB200 that has served for 45 years
or so and will continue to do so in a reduced role.
I have made a spot for it to reside in my little shop but lack the
muscle to get it there on my own so I am keeping an eye out for
neighbours that may be attracted to short lived employment in the
moving business with a tot or two of Scotch.
Don Hamilton
---------------------------------------------------
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., R Thompson wrote:
Thanks Roy,
I was thinking of putting off my purchase for now, maybe I should
re-think it. They have a few books of interest, I hope that someone
will continue to offer them at a reasonable price.
Sometimes resisting the impulse buying urge means a missed
opportunity. Its hard to know what to do.
While on the subject of impulse buying, BusyBee Tools, which has a
store in Edmonton (cheaper shipping to Yellowknife from there) > > >
|
Re: Real Bull 7x14 lathe questions?
That is unfortunate.? I use the 20% off coupons all the time, on sale items.? The only restriction there should be is that you cannot combine coupons. ?
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From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of Colin Sharpe
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2013 6:50 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Real Bull 7x14 lathe questions?? ? I wish you were right!? I bought my Harbor Freight 7x10 from the store on Route 1 in Peabody MA while the sale was on, and showed the checkout lady my 20% off coupon, but she said it didn't apply because the lathe was already on sale.
From: Robert Furmanak <rfurmanak@...>
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Friday, 8 February 2013, 10:00
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Re: Real Bull 7x14 lathe questions? ? ? I agree with your advice.? I started out with a cheap Harbor Freight (Seig) 7x10 , and upgraded it as I increased my skills and interest in machining. ?For small diameter work, they are not bad machines, and they can be a real bargain if you are within driving distance of a Harbor Freight store, and you have a 20% off coupon.? They are store stock items, so you can actually see it, rather than buying sight unseen.? Currently, the HF 7x10 is on sale for $499.? A 20% off coupon brings that down to $399.? If you pick it up, shipping costs are zero.? Even though it is a small lathe, that is an attractive offer for the budget minded who is otherwise looking at around $900 for an LMS, Micro Mark, or Big Dog lathe including shipping. Bob and others looking to buy a 7x lathe
I would not just write off any of the older lathes for the "new kid on the block" the new top of the line Sieg type with new motor and control technology,as sold by LMS and others. Whilst it is true that they are the best so far and that power is more than adequate at all speeds they are otherwise little different in design, fit and finish to all the other models that went before them and that means weaknesses as well as strengths.
As they are sold at a premium price and have limited availability this will undoubtedly mean a hefty shipping bill for many prospective purchasers compared with a "lesser" model that can be bought at discount locally and collected it might well be that they work out a great deal more expensive.
When the 7x mini-lathes first appeared the motor power of 250-300W sometimes something of an issue, especially with large diameter parts at low speeds, but the motors have steadily increased in power over the years and seem to range from 350-550 depending on the vendor and model, still not as good as the new motor Sieg (500W but higher torque) but a definite improvement and likely to satisfy most people.
Here in the UK the premium for the new Sieg is the equivalent of $300 and I have read it can run to that in he US too, depending on offers etc. If you want the extra power and money is not an issue then the Sieg is the best of the crop, but for those on a budget, who are a little less demanding or are not averse to taking things a little slower then one of the older could make a very good purchase and leave you change for extra tooling and accessories. There is also of course the opportunity to look at the used market as well.
Gerry W
Leeds UK
_____________________________
> To: 7x12minilathe@...
> From: clevinski@...
> Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2013 11:47:27 +0000
> Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Real Bull 7x14 lathe questions?
>
>
> < br>> Bob,
>
> I've had a Real Bull 7x14 with gear box since May, and I love it. It
> did come with quite an accessory package, including a 4" 3-jaw chuck,
> (which is standard if you buy it from Big Dog), steady and follower
> rests, metal main transmission gears (not all of them), tails stock
> drill chuck, live center and dead center. I really liked the
> accessories (though I have not yet used the follower rest) and I
> especially liked the 4" chuck and metal gears.
>
> Just my two cents...
>
> Charlie
>
> --- In
> 7x12minilathe@yah oogroups.com>,
> "bob_guenthner" wrote:
> >
> >
> > Had a response from one of the eBay sellers that the Real Bull lathe
> does have a high/low gear box. It's still a possibility depending on
> what a follower ans steady rest would cost me.
> >
> > Bob
> > --- In
> 7x12minilathe@...>,
> "bob_guenthner" wrote:
> > >
> > > I would like a larger lathe, but space and money are the limiting
> factor. I do have access at work to a South Bend, I don't know the
> exact size, but it's probably a 12 x 60 and an older South Bend that's
> about 36 inches long. The problem is I work for the federal government
> and most people at work wouldn't like it too much if I had a rifle
> barrel or action chucked up in the lathe. I can do most of the work I
> need to do on a 7x14, but could possibly sneak in some time on the work
> lathes if I had to on a weekend.
> > >
> > > Bob
> > >
> > > --- In
> 7x12minilathe@...>,
> "Tony Smith" wrote:
> > > >
> > > > ; > Not sure of the price range you guys are looking at,but at
> 1150.00 my 10x22
> > > > > from grizzly is several times the lathe that the 7x12 it
> replaced. I lost the 7x12 to
> > > > > thieves last winter, and got the 10x22 as I kept seeing the 7x14
> for around
> > > > > $800+ with a bit less than what the 10x22 came with. The wife
> wasn't so happy
> > > > > with the extra cost, but now that i'm getting used to the bigger
> I'm glad I got it. It
> > > > > comes with 5" 3 jaw, 6" four jaw chuck, face plate, steady rest,
> follow rest, mt4
> > > > > center, mt3 center, plus a little tool box to hold the tools in
> till you get a bench
> > > > > made. I still miss the 7x12 tho, it was my first lathe and I
> had lots of fun learning
> > > > > with it.
> > > > > Dennis
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > It is indeed several times the lathe:
>
> 010x22%20LATHE/100_4028_edited.jpg<>
> > > >
> > > > (that's a 7x10, but close enough).
> > > >
> > > > Tony
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
>
> ?
|
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., John Lindo wrote:
Interesting site.
Not yet finished.
www.icemaidenkits.com.?
John L
Spain
Hi John, This is our website and as you said there are some other products waiting to go on to it, but they are still in the developmental stage. Also the site has been set up as uk only at the moment as it makes calculating postage easier. Thanks for your email earlier reminding me of that! However we do not have a problem shipping to other countries, we just need to work out the postage costs and add that into the ordering process. If anybody does want to order anything in the meantime please use the contact us section of the site, that way i will know which countries to add second (Seems Spain is first in the cue!). You should also get an email from us.. Best Regards Simon McNally
|
Re: Who to install hand wheel bearings?
Yes, I have a little oil in it, enough to keep the gears wet.? I did not put a shaft seal on, I just sealed the lid to the apron with Permatex. Since I often tilt the lathe to clean it, any excess oil would run out the shaft hole. ?While ball bearings are really not necessary in such a low speed application, they are cheap, and have oil seals built in, preventing oil from leaking out if I tilt the machine to the front. ?
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Show quoted text
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of Mark Schwiebert
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2013 11:05 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Who to install hand wheel bearings?? ? I noticed on your link,you mentioned that you wanted to fill the apron gearbox with oil. You would not have to fill the box,only put some in the bottom,which woud travel up all the gears. This would eliminate the need to put a seal on the shaft on the back side.
From: Robert Furmanak <rfurmanak@...>
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Who to install hand wheel bearings?
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Date: Saturday, February 9, 2013, 5:01 PM
? I installed a pair of 8mm x 22mm bearings on my handwheel shaft.? Unlike most others, I put both bearings in front, with nothing in the rear.? This has worked very well for me.? See my post at:? I could not have done this mod on my lathe.? I used my Mini Mill and a boring bar. ? ? ? When I get caught up on some bills, who installs the bearings in the saddle and cross slide of our lathes?
I won't have a lathe to do the work on, so can't do it myself. It sounds like a worthwhile mod how ever.
|
|
I bought my mini lathe as a display model for 20% off PLUS 20% off with the coupon! PLUS it was on sale ( a few years ago ) for $399.? I walked out with a new lathe for? $255.36 plus tax. ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of Sherbundy, James
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2013 12:45 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] 20% H F coupon? ? Same deal for me in Cleveland. Seemed to good to be true, so I called their 800 number and they confirmed it could be used. At the checkout, ?the coupon scanned just fine. I was ready to argue if necesssry. ?Now I spent all if my savings and some more on LMS goodies. Jim?
-------- Original message --------
From: Dave Beck <dbex@...>
Date: 02/11/2013 12:28 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: minilathe list <7x12minilathe@...>
Subject: [7x12minilathe] 20% H F coupon
? I bought one at HF Houston a couple weeks ago and got both sale price and 20% off, but it took a half-hour wait while they found someone to approve the 20% coupon. Net cost $399
|
Same deal for me in Cleveland. Seemed to good to be true, so I called their 800 number and they confirmed it could be used. At the checkout, ?the coupon scanned just fine. I was ready to argue if necesssry. ?Now I spent all if my savings and some more
on LMS goodies.
Jim?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-------- Original message --------
From: Dave Beck
Date: 02/11/2013 12:28 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: minilathe list <7x12minilathe@...>
Subject: [7x12minilathe] 20% H F coupon
?
I bought one at HF Houston a couple weeks ago and got both sale price and 20% off, but it took a half-hour wait while they found someone to approve the 20% coupon. Net cost $399
|
Interesting idea, John. I haven't followed your link, but suspect it's one I've seen before, heating the screw while compressing the acetal on to it in a vice (or vise). Should work even better with an M10 thread, where only a small amount of acetal needs?to be displaced.
?
Now, if there was a?way to take out any backlash which?developed in service by squeezing?opposite sides of your steel adapter and thus the acetal nut inside it.....?? But there probably isn't room for such refinements.
?
Andy
?
?
To: 7x12minilathe@... From: John@... Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2013 15:23:59 +0000 Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: brass nut alignment? ?
An interesting experiment would be an acetal nut. Possibly someone could try it and let the group know how it worked out...
Perhaps make a round acetal nut as described in the link below, plus a steel adapter with shape similar to the original nut but a large through hole. Turn the completed acetal nut down to fit into the adapter, press it in, then lock in place with set screws or pins. Or, the screws that hold the adapter to the CS could lock the nut in place.
< >
Based on reports from those who tried it, it works well, has little to no backlash, and doesn't wear rapidly. So far it has been used on Acme threads - the 7x12 thread would be exploring new territory.
John
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--- In 7x12minilathe@..., gerry waclawiak wrote: > > Hi John, Andy > > I agreee with Andy the bronze would be the best material by some margin with brass a little better than cast iron but as with much selection in low cost equipment material cost is often a key driver. A quick look through my favoured model engineering supplier for suitable size section gave brass as just over twice the price of cast iron and bronze just over three times. > > Cast iron is actually a quite reasonable bearing material for low speed plain bearings due to the graphite content and in conjunction with steel quite hard wearing. > > My Real Bull lathe is nearly 10yo and came with cast iron nuts and is still going strong with little wear to nut or screw. > > The "rocking nut" arrangement works by reducing the clearance at the end but then concentrates the load leading to faster wear in use, A higher precision nut and screw orf better materials would be a better soultion but cost then is the issue. Lead screw half nuts is likely a cost issue again. > > Gerry W > Leeds UK > > To: 7x12minilathe@...> From: andyf.1108@... > Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2013 11:20:05 +0000 > Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: brass nut alignment? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I don't know, John. > > > > I can produce no authority for this, but I imagine that bronze might be the best material for feedscrew nuts. Mine was originally cast iron, but as a result of certain "unintended consequences" of remachining my saddle dovetail I replaced it with one of the brass ones you kindly made and included when returning the tap, and that works just fine. > > > > But if bronze is good for feedscrews, why not bronze half nuts on leadscrews? > > > > Returning to G's original query, it has been suggested that he uses the adjustment which reduces backlash by rocking the feedscrew nut slightly. If his cross slide was stiff throughout its travel, that might help, but it only stiffens up at the outward end. That makes me think the cause probably lies elsewhere; hence the suggestions I put forward earlier. > > > > Andy > > > > --- In 7x12minilathe@..., John Lindo wrote: > > > > > > Andy Franks in reply to this recent post. > > > > > > Do different mini lathe (Chinese manufacturers)? opt for brass and or cast iron cross feed nuts.? > > > Does cast iron have physical self lubricating properties (graphite) and would phosphor bronze have even been a better choice of material ? > > > My ? Real Bull lathe was? originally? fitted with a cast iron nut. > > > As you remember opted with the cross feed mods I did to put in double nuts (only to stop the screw > > > running off the nut when I did the extended the travel change) and made 2 new nuts in brass so > > > one of the nuts is always in contact with the screw at the end of travel towards the splash guard. > > > Naturally re positioned them on the cross slide,backlash and or slop now is not an issue. > > > I think double nuts helps in some of the gib issues we all seem to have,being that the screw is better supported. > > > Again,many thanks for the loan off your LH Tap you made, it worked very well. > > > Still have to make my own tap ,it's a round to it job. > > > But thinking now I should of used cast iron , although brass the has never been a problem. > > > Best to leave alone at this moment. > > > Regards > > > John L > > > > > > > > > >
|
Interesting site. Not yet finished. .?
John L Spain
|
On 02/11/2013 03:20 AM, andyf1108 wrote: I don't know, John.
I can produce no authority for this, but I imagine that bronze might be the best material for feedscrew nuts. Mine was originally cast iron, but as a result of certain "unintended consequences" of remachining my saddle dovetail I replaced it with one of the brass ones you kindly made and included when returning the tap, and that works just fine.
But if bronze is good for feedscrews, why not bronze half nuts on leadscrews?
Returning to G's original query, it has been suggested that he uses the adjustment which reduces backlash by rocking the feedscrew nut slightly. If his cross slide was stiff throughout its travel, that might help, but it only stiffens up at the outward end. That makes me think the cause probably lies elsewhere; hence the suggestions I put forward earlier.
Andy
I haven't looked at that nut in a long time (since I drilled the recess into it so it seats better) but is there room to put in a DIY acetyl nut? The type you form to your particular leadscrew? -- Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886 Skype: jerrydurand
|
Re: Real Bull 7x14 lathe questions?
If you didn't need a coupon to get the sale price and there wasn't a parking lot sale going on, that lady was full of an odorous brown substance. Sale items DO qualify for a 20% discount. If this was recently, take your receipt and coupon back to the store and find someone else or contact customer service. On Mon, 11 Feb 2013, Colin Sharpe wrote: I wish you were right!? I bought my Harbor Freight 7x10 from the store on Route 1 in Peabody MA while the sale was on, and showed the checkout lady my 20% off coupon, but she said it didn't apply because the lathe was already on sale.
Colin.
________________________________
From: Robert Furmanak <rfurmanak@...>
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Friday, 8 February 2013, 10:00
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Re: Real Bull 7x14 lathe questions?
?
I agree with your advice.? I started out with a cheap Harbor Freight (Seig) 7x10 , and upgraded it as I increased my skills and interest in machining. ?For small diameter work, they are not bad machines, and they can be a real bargain if you are within driving distance of a Harbor Freight store, and you have a 20% off coupon.? They are store stock items, so you can actually see it, rather than buying sight unseen.?
Currently, the HF 7x10 is on sale for $499.? A 20% off coupon brings that down to $399.? If you pick it up, shipping costs are zero.? Even though it is a small lathe, that is an attractive offer for the budget minded who is otherwise looking at around $900 for an LMS, Micro Mark, or Big Dog lathe including shipping.
?
From:7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of gerry waclawiak
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2013 9:15 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Re: Real Bull 7x14 lathe questions?
?
?
Bob and others looking to buy a 7x lathe
I would not just write off any of the older lathes for the "new kid on the block" the new top of the line Sieg type with new motor and control technology,as sold by LMS and others. Whilst it is true that they are the best so far and that power is more than adequate at all speeds they are otherwise little different in design, fit and finish to all the other models that went before them and that means weaknesses as well as strengths.
As they are sold at a premium price and have limited availability this will undoubtedly mean a hefty shipping bill for many prospective purchasers compared with a "lesser" model that can be bought at discount locally and collected it might well be that they work out a great deal more expensive.
When the 7x mini-lathes first appeared the motor power of 250-300W sometimes something of an issue, especially with large diameter parts at low speeds, but the motors have steadily increased in power over the years and seem to range from 350-550 depending on the vendor and model, still not as good as the new motor Sieg (500W but higher torque) but a definite improvement and likely to satisfy most people.
Here in the UK the premium for the new Sieg is the equivalent of $300 and I have read it can run to that in he US too, depending on offers etc. If you want the extra power and money is not an issue then the Sieg is the best of the crop, but for those on a budget, who are a little less demanding or are not averse to taking things a little slower then one of the older could make a very good purchase and leave you change for extra tooling and accessories. There is also of course the opportunity to look at the used market as well.
Gerry W
Leeds UK
_____________________________
To: 7x12minilathe@...
From: clevinski@...
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2013 11:47:27 +0000
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Real Bull 7x14 lathe questions?
< br>> Bob,
I've had a Real Bull 7x14 with gear box since May, and I love it. It
did come with quite an accessory package, including a 4" 3-jaw chuck,
(which is standard if you buy it from Big Dog), steady and follower
rests, metal main transmission gears (not all of them), tails stock
drill chuck, live center and dead center. I really liked the
accessories (though I have not yet used the follower rest) and I
especially liked the 4" chuck and metal gears.
Just my two cents...
Charlie
--- In
7x12minilathe@...<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>,
"bob_guenthner" wrote:
Had a response from one of the eBay sellers that the Real Bull lathe
does have a high/low gear box. It's still a possibility depending on
what a follower ans steady rest would cost me.
Bob
--- In
7x12minilathe@...<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>,
"bob_guenthner" wrote:
I would like a larger lathe, but space and money are the limiting
factor. I do have access at work to a South Bend, I don't know the
exact size, but it's probably a 12 x 60 and an older South Bend that's
about 36 inches long. The problem is I work for the federal government
and most people at work wouldn't like it too much if I had a rifle
barrel or action chucked up in the lathe. I can do most of the work I
need to do on a 7x14, but could possibly sneak in some time on the work
lathes if I had to on a weekend.
Bob
--- In
7x12minilathe@...<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>,
"Tony Smith" wrote:
; > Not sure of the price range you guys are looking at,but at
1150.00 my 10x22
from grizzly is several times the lathe that the 7x12 it
replaced. I lost the 7x12 to
thieves last winter, and got the 10x22 as I kept seeing the 7x14
for around
$800+ with a bit less than what the 10x22 came with. The wife
wasn't so happy
with the extra cost, but now that i'm getting used to the bigger
I'm glad I got it. It
comes with 5" 3 jaw, 6" four jaw chuck, face plate, steady rest,
follow rest, mt4
center, mt3 center, plus a little tool box to hold the tools in
till you get a bench
made. I still miss the 7x12 tho, it was my first lathe and I
had lots of fun learning
with it.
Dennis
It is indeed several times the lathe:
;
010x22%20LATHE/100_4028_edited.jpg<>
(that's a 7x10, but close enough).
Tony
Vince. -- Michigan VHF Corp. The Foggy Mist Emporium
|
An interesting experiment would be an acetal nut. Possibly someone could try it and let the group know how it worked out...
Perhaps make a round acetal nut as described in the link below, plus a steel adapter with shape similar to the original nut but a large through hole. Turn the completed acetal nut down to fit into the adapter, press it in, then lock in place with set screws or pins. Or, the screws that hold the adapter to the CS could lock the nut in place.
< >
Based on reports from those who tried it, it works well, has little to no backlash, and doesn't wear rapidly. So far it has been used on Acme threads - the 7x12 thread would be exploring new territory.
John
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., gerry waclawiak wrote:
Hi John, Andy
I agreee with Andy the bronze would be the best material by some margin with brass a little better than cast iron but as with much selection in low cost equipment material cost is often a key driver. A quick look through my favoured model engineering supplier for suitable size section gave brass as just over twice the price of cast iron and bronze just over three times.
Cast iron is actually a quite reasonable bearing material for low speed plain bearings due to the graphite content and in conjunction with steel quite hard wearing.
My Real Bull lathe is nearly 10yo and came with cast iron nuts and is still going strong with little wear to nut or screw.
The "rocking nut" arrangement works by reducing the clearance at the end but then concentrates the load leading to faster wear in use, A higher precision nut and screw orf better materials would be a better soultion but cost then is the issue. Lead screw half nuts is likely a cost issue again.
Gerry W
Leeds UK
To: 7x12minilathe@...
From: andyf.1108@...
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2013 11:20:05 +0000
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: brass nut alignment?
I don't know, John.
I can produce no authority for this, but I imagine that bronze might be the best material for feedscrew nuts. Mine was originally cast iron, but as a result of certain "unintended consequences" of remachining my saddle dovetail I replaced it with one of the brass ones you kindly made and included when returning the tap, and that works just fine.
But if bronze is good for feedscrews, why not bronze half nuts on leadscrews?
Returning to G's original query, it has been suggested that he uses the adjustment which reduces backlash by rocking the feedscrew nut slightly. If his cross slide was stiff throughout its travel, that might help, but it only stiffens up at the outward end. That makes me think the cause probably lies elsewhere; hence the suggestions I put forward earlier.
Andy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., John Lindo wrote:
Andy Franks in reply to this recent post. Do different mini lathe (Chinese manufacturers)? opt for brass and or cast iron cross feed nuts.? Does cast iron have physical self lubricating properties (graphite) and would phosphor bronze have even been a better choice of material ? My ? Real Bull lathe was? originally? fitted with a cast iron nut. As you remember opted with the cross feed mods I did to put in double nuts (only to stop the screw running off the nut when I did the extended the travel change) and made 2 new nuts in brass so one of the nuts is always in contact with the screw at the end of travel towards the splash guard. Naturally re positioned them on the cross slide,backlash and or slop now is not an issue. I think double nuts helps in some of the gib issues we all seem to have,being that the screw is better supported. Again,many thanks for the loan off your LH Tap you made, it worked very well. Still have to make my own tap ,it's a round to it job. But thinking now I should of used cast iron , although brass the has never been a problem. Best to leave alone at this moment. Regards John L
|
Hi John, Andy
I agreee with Andy the bronze would be the best material by some margin with brass a little better than cast iron but as with much selection in low cost equipment material cost is often a key driver. A quick look through my favoured model engineering supplier for suitable size section gave brass as just over twice the price of cast iron and bronze just over three times.
Cast iron is actually a quite reasonable bearing material for low speed plain bearings due to the graphite content and in conjunction with steel quite hard wearing.
My Real Bull lathe is nearly 10yo and came with cast iron nuts and is still going strong with little wear to nut or screw.
The "rocking nut" arrangement works by reducing the clearance at the end but then concentrates the load leading to faster wear in use, A higher precision nut and screw orf better materials would be a better soultion but cost then is the issue. Lead screw half nuts is likely a cost issue again.
Gerry W
Leeds UK
To: 7x12minilathe@... From: andyf.1108@... Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2013 11:20:05 +0000 Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: brass nut alignment?
?
I don't know, John.
I can produce no authority for this, but I imagine that bronze might be the best material for feedscrew nuts. Mine was originally cast iron, but as a result of certain "unintended consequences" of remachining my saddle dovetail I replaced it with one of the brass ones you kindly made and included when returning the tap, and that works just fine.
But if bronze is good for feedscrews, why not bronze half nuts on leadscrews?
Returning to G's original query, it has been suggested that he uses the adjustment which reduces backlash by rocking the feedscrew nut slightly. If his cross slide was stiff throughout its travel, that might help, but it only stiffens up at the outward end. That makes me think the cause probably lies elsewhere; hence the suggestions I put forward earlier.
Andy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., John Lindo wrote:
>
> Andy Franks in reply to this recent post.
>
> Do different mini lathe (Chinese manufacturers)??opt for brass and or cast iron cross feed nuts.?
> Does cast iron have physical self lubricating properties (graphite) and would phosphor bronze have even been a better choice of material ?
> My ??Real Bull lathe was??originally??fitted with a cast iron nut.
> As you remember opted with the cross feed mods I did to put in double nuts (only to stop the screw
> running off the nut when I did the extended the travel change) and made 2 new nuts in brass so
> one of the nuts is always in contact with the screw at the end of travel towards the splash guard.
> Naturally re positioned them on the cross slide,backlash and or slop now is not an issue.
> I think double nuts helps in some of the gib issues we all seem to have,being that the screw is better supported.
> Again,many thanks for the loan off your LH Tap you made, it worked very well.
> Still have to make my own tap ,it's a round to it job.
> But thinking now I should of used cast iron , although brass the has never been a problem.
> Best to leave alone at this moment.
> Regards
> John L
>
>
>
|
The primary adjustment is to set the centre adjuster up, with the nut close
up to the handle. Feel for the middle of the range of adjustment at that
point, then work on balancing the two outer adjusters one against the other,
so slack is taken up, but it handle still turns freely throughout the thread
length.
The centre adjuster sets the nuts overall height, the two outer ones balance
or push one against the other, to take up slack in the thread. If you then
measure the thickness of the shim required, just under the centre it makes
the whole process simpler in the future as well as making the nut more
stable. Instead of adjusting the centre, then you just tighten it up against
the shim.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]
On Behalf Of G.
Sent: 10 February 2013 22:27
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] brass nut alignment?
Wondering if anyone has ever had to shim the brass nut for the
'cross-slide?' to work right? I've tried the original and a new one. Both
leave it harder to turn the closer the cross-slide gets to the turning
lever. Any idea's would be appreciated as i would like to get this done and
together and use it some.
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
|
Re: Real Bull 7x14 lathe questions?
I wish you were right!? I bought my Harbor Freight 7x10 from the store on Route 1 in Peabody MA while the sale was on, and showed the checkout lady my 20% off coupon, but she said it didn't apply because the lathe was already on sale.
Colin.
From: Robert Furmanak
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Friday, 8 February 2013, 10:00
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Re: Real Bull 7x14 lathe questions?
?
I agree with your advice.? I started out with a cheap Harbor Freight (Seig) 7x10 , and upgraded it as I increased my skills and interest in machining. ?For small diameter work, they are not bad machines, and they can be a real bargain if you are within driving distance of a Harbor Freight store, and you have a 20% off coupon.? They are store stock items, so you can actually see it, rather than buying sight unseen.? Currently, the HF 7x10 is on sale for $499.? A 20% off coupon brings that down to $399.? If you pick it up, shipping costs are zero.? Even though it is a small lathe, that is an attractive offer for the budget minded who is otherwise looking at around $900 for an LMS, Micro Mark, or Big Dog
lathe including shipping. ? From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of gerry waclawiak
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2013 9:15 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Re: Real Bull 7x14 lathe questions? ? ? Bob and others looking to buy a 7x lathe I would not just write off any of the older lathes for the "new kid on the
block" the new top of the line Sieg type with new motor and control technology,as sold by LMS and others. Whilst it is true that they are the best so far and that power is more than adequate at all speeds they are otherwise little different in design, fit and finish to all the other models that went before them and that means weaknesses as well as strengths. As they are sold at a premium price and have limited availability this will undoubtedly mean a hefty shipping bill for many prospective purchasers compared with a "lesser" model that can be bought at discount locally and collected it might well be that they work out a great deal more expensive. When the 7x mini-lathes first appeared the motor power of 250-300W sometimes something of an issue, especially with large diameter parts at low speeds, but the motors have steadily increased in power over the years and seem to range from 350-550 depending on the vendor and model, still not as
good as the new motor Sieg (500W but higher torque) but a definite improvement and likely to satisfy most people. Here in the UK the premium for the new Sieg is the equivalent of $300 and I have read it can run to that in he US too, depending on offers etc. If you want the extra power and money is not an issue then the Sieg is the best of the crop, but for those on a budget, who are a little less demanding or are not averse to taking things a little slower then one of the older could make a very good purchase and leave you change for extra tooling and accessories. There is also of course the opportunity to look at the used market as well. Gerry W Leeds UK _____________________________ > To: 7x12minilathe@... > From: clevinski@... > Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2013 11:47:27 +0000 > Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Real Bull 7x14 lathe questions? > > > < br>> Bob, > > I've had a Real Bull 7x14 with gear box since May, and I love it. It > did come with quite an accessory package, including a 4" 3-jaw chuck, > (which is standard if you buy it from Big Dog), steady and follower > rests, metal main transmission gears (not all of them), tails stock > drill chuck, live center and dead center. I really liked the > accessories (though I have not yet used the follower rest) and I > especially liked the 4" chuck and metal gears. > > Just my two cents... > > Charlie > > --- In > 7x12minilathe@...>,
> "bob_guenthner" wrote:
> >
> >
> > Had a response from one of the eBay sellers that the Real Bull lathe
> does have a high/low gear box. It's still a possibility depending on
> what a follower ans steady rest would cost me.
> >
> > Bob
> > --- In
> 7x12minilathe@...>,
> "bob_guenthner" wrote:
> > >
> > > I would like a larger lathe, but space and money are the limiting
> factor. I do
have access at work to a South Bend, I don't know the
> exact size, but it's probably a 12 x 60 and an older South Bend that's
> about 36 inches long. The problem is I work for the federal government
> and most people at work wouldn't like it too much if I had a rifle
> barrel or action chucked up in the lathe. I can do most of the work I
> need to do on a 7x14, but could possibly sneak in some time on the work
> lathes if I had to on a weekend.
> > >
> > > Bob
> > >
> > > --- In
> 7x12minilathe@...>,
> "Tony Smith" wrote:
> > > >
> > > > ; > Not
sure of the price range you guys are looking at,but at
> 1150.00 my 10x22
> > > > > from grizzly is several times the lathe that the 7x12 it
> replaced. I lost the 7x12 to
> > > > > thieves last winter, and got the 10x22 as I kept seeing the 7x14
> for around
> > > > > $800+ with a bit less than what the 10x22 came with. The wife
> wasn't so happy
> > > > > with the extra cost, but now that i'm getting used to the bigger
> I'm glad I got it. It
> > > > > comes with 5" 3 jaw, 6" four jaw chuck, face plate, steady rest,
> follow rest, mt4
> > > > > center, mt3 center, plus a little tool box to hold the tools in
> till you get a bench
> > > > > made. I still miss the 7x12 tho, it was my first lathe and I
> had lots of fun learning
> > > > > with it.
> > > > > Dennis
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > It is indeed several times the lathe:
> > 010x22%20LATHE/100_4028_edited.jpg<> > > > > > > > > (that's a 7x10, but close enough). > > > > > > > > Tony > > > > > > > > > > > >
|
I don't know, John.
I can produce no authority for this, but I imagine that bronze might be the best material for feedscrew nuts. Mine was originally cast iron, but as a result of certain "unintended consequences" of remachining my saddle dovetail I replaced it with one of the brass ones you kindly made and included when returning the tap, and that works just fine.
But if bronze is good for feedscrews, why not bronze half nuts on leadscrews?
Returning to G's original query, it has been suggested that he uses the adjustment which reduces backlash by rocking the feedscrew nut slightly. If his cross slide was stiff throughout its travel, that might help, but it only stiffens up at the outward end. That makes me think the cause probably lies elsewhere; hence the suggestions I put forward earlier.
Andy
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., John Lindo wrote:
Andy Franks in reply to this recent post.
Do different mini lathe (Chinese manufacturers)??opt for brass and or cast iron cross feed nuts.?
Does cast iron have physical self lubricating properties (graphite) and would phosphor bronze have even been a better choice of material ?
My ??Real Bull lathe was??originally??fitted with a cast iron nut.
As you remember opted with the cross feed mods I did to put in double nuts (only to stop the screw
running off the nut when I did the extended the travel change) and made 2 new nuts in brass so
one of the nuts is always in contact with the screw at the end of travel towards the splash guard.
Naturally re positioned them on the cross slide,backlash and or slop now is not an issue.
I think double nuts helps in some of the gib issues we all seem to have,being that the screw is better supported.
Again,many thanks for the loan off your LH Tap you made, it worked very well.
Still have to make my own tap ,it's a round to it job.
But thinking now I should of used cast iron , although brass the has never been a problem.
Best to leave alone at this moment.
Regards
John L
|
Andy Franks in reply to this recent post.
Do different mini lathe (Chinese manufacturers)?opt for brass and or cast iron cross feed nuts.? Does cast iron have physical self lubricating properties (graphite) and would phosphor bronze have even been a better choice of material ? My ?Real Bull lathe was?originally?fitted with a cast iron nut. As you remember opted with the cross feed mods I did to put in double nuts (only to stop the screw running off the nut when I did the extended the travel change) and made 2 new nuts in brass so one of the nuts is always in contact with the screw at the end of travel towards the splash guard. Naturally re positioned them on the cross slide,backlash and or slop now is not an issue. I think double nuts helps in some of the gib issues we all seem to have,being that the screw is better supported. Again,many thanks for the loan off your LH Tap you made, it worked very well. Still have to
make my own tap ,it's a round to it job. But thinking now I should of used cast iron , although brass the has never been a problem. Best to leave alone at this moment. Regards John L
From: andyf1108
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2013 12:57 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: brass nut alignment?
?
Before getting involved with shims, first loosen off the rear gib adjusting screw and see if that makes any difference. If not, try loosening the two bolts which secure the bracket that carries the cross-slide feedscrew. Just loosen them enough to allow the bracket to move around as far as the wriggle room in the bolt holes permits. Then wind the slide out as far as it will come, and tighten up the bolts. This might cure the problem if the hole through the bracket was a bit out of line with the brass nut. In that case, the slide would move easily when well back, but get progressivly stiffer as the nut approached the bracket and tried to bend the feedscrew more and more to accommodate the misalignment.
I had a similar problem on my lathe, but it had a different cause. Due to poor manufacture, the top of the male dovetail on the saddle fouled the roof of the female dovetail in the slide when I tried to wind the slide fully out towards me. Once tracked down with by probing around with a 5 thou feeler gauge, the problem was soom solves with a few strokes of a file to give the necessay clearance.
Andy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "G." wrote:
>
> Wondering if anyone has ever had to shim the brass nut for the 'cross-slide?' to work right? I've tried the original and a new one. Both leave it harder to turn the closer the cross-slide gets to the turning lever. Any idea's would be appreciated as i would like to get this done and together and use it some.
>
|
I mounted my non tilting version on a flat base that is wider than the vise. This allows the use of standard T-slot clamps to secure it anywhere needed. Often the clamps will be where you need to insert the bar to position the jaw of the vise. By having the base as I do, the clamps can be offset allowing better access for the bar. I also added a stop / ledge to the end of the base that contacts the edge of the mills table. This allows the vise to be removed and returned without losing the "square" to the table. Both have been a very big help.
|
BIg Jake
GadgetBuilder
gerry waclawiak