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Re: potmeter with swicth for 7X12
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýAlex/Andy, I have a RB mini-lathe supplied several years ago by Warco that has the KB board. ?When the pot went iffy several years ago i was able to rescue/ restore it for quite some time by using switch cleaner spray and in the meantime order a pot from ARC (intended for the Sieg) and that was a straight swap and appeared identical to the one I removed. They are both 4.7k (if I remember correctly) and also fit the sieg mini-mill Gerry W Leeds UK To: 7x12minilathe@... From: andyf.1108@... Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2012 17:01:27 +0000 Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: potmeter with swicth for 7X12 ?
Hi Alex,
I think the spares supplied by Arc Euro Trade are mainly for lathes from the Sieg factory in China. If your lathe has a KBLC240D board, it probably comes from the rival Real Bull factory. I do not know if they use the same switch. Here are two UK companies who sell Real Bull mini-lathes, and may be able to help with a replacement: < > < > Have you tried a electrical switch-cleaning spray? Sometimes these can restore a dirty switch so it works again. The improvement may not last for long, so it would be wise to order a new one. Andy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "alex4459jopiklal44" wrote: > > hello all memebers > I have the "Einhell mtb 300" minilathe > with a KBLC-240d controll board > > I turned very slowly ,and did make the lathe stall.. > Then It would not run anymore... > Each time I turn the speed controller to off.. and turning on again, the chuck moves a few centimeters.. trying in reverse gave the same result. > I did not think I had overloaded the regulator ,so I tried to find the reason.. with the pot ,that connect when off, in mind, I looked at this switch.. > it is the switch that are defective.. it sometimes make contact and sometimes are not effectiv closed.. it often make a short short when I turn on the speedcontroller. > > Well no need to examine how and why.. the switch in the speed control is not good anymore. > > Then I looked at ARC in UK for buying a new one.. they have them , but it is out of stock. > > finally.. hope someone sometime can use this mail ,if he have the same problem and > second.. Do any of you know of another supplier here in Europe > thanks for listening > alex > Denmark > |
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Re: Narrow angle center drill
Jerry Durand
On 12/07/2012 08:39 AM, Stephen Castello wrote:
Looks like the same taper as on a pencil. Could be used to wood screwCould be for something like making nozzles too. -- Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886 Skype: jerrydurand |
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Re: potmeter with swicth for 7X12
Hi Alex,
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I think the spares supplied by Arc Euro Trade are mainly for lathes from the Sieg factory in China. If your lathe has a KBLC240D board, it probably comes from the rival Real Bull factory. I do not know if they use the same switch. Here are two UK companies who sell Real Bull mini-lathes, and may be able to help with a replacement: < > < > Have you tried a electrical switch-cleaning spray? Sometimes these can restore a dirty switch so it works again. The improvement may not last for long, so it would be wise to order a new one. Andy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "alex4459jopiklal44" <christiansen_alex@...> wrote:
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potmeter with swicth for 7X12
hello all memebers
I have the "Einhell mtb 300" minilathe with a KBLC-240d controll board I turned very slowly ,and did make the lathe stall.. Then It would not run anymore... Each time I turn the speed controller to off.. and turning on again, the chuck moves a few centimeters.. trying in reverse gave the same result. I did not think I had overloaded the regulator ,so I tried to find the reason.. with the pot ,that connect when off, in mind, I looked at this switch.. it is the switch that are defective.. it sometimes make contact and sometimes are not effectiv closed.. it often make a short short when I turn on the speedcontroller. Well no need to examine how and why.. the switch in the speed control is not good anymore. Then I looked at ARC in UK for buying a new one.. they have them , but it is out of stock. finally.. hope someone sometime can use this mail ,if he have the same problem and second.. Do any of you know of another supplier here in Europe thanks for listening alex Denmark |
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Re: Narrow angle center drill
Stephen Castello
On Thu, 06 Dec 2012 11:57:31 -0000, "chucketn" <chunk07@...>
had a flock of green cheek conures squawk out: I took a picture of the center drill in question next to the 60¡ã one from my set from LMS.Looks like the same taper as on a pencil. Could be used to wood screw holes with a dowel sharpened in a pencil sharpener. -- Stephen Movie fact: Mothers routinely cook eggs, bacon and waffles for their family every morning even though their husband and children never have time to eat it. |
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Re: Question about turning down and runout
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýIt's that two-step method that, to me, is just too
tedious.? But the first thing I did with the lathe was remove that pesky
splash guard.? I consider it a nuisance because, on such a small lathe, it
is just in too close.? If splash guarding is needed, a little free standing
one can be positioned on the bench further back.? More room around the
lathe front and back also makes lathe cleanup easier.
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Chuck K.
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Re: Bearing seal for front tapered roller bearing?
In the Files section see the zip file near the end titled:
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tapered-roller-bearing.zip This contains a description of the bearing change process, including pictures and a description of how to make seals. John --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Dick" <old_toolmaker@...> wrote:
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Re: Threading for the first time
MERTON B BAKER
A wheel is fine for things like collet closers, or to add inertia to the
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spindle, or if you like to stop & start the spindle by hand, as is necessary on a sewing machine, but for threading, you need torque and control, and the hand crank rules. The radius wants to be 6" at least, and 8" is better. Mert -----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of CLevinski Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2012 10:02 PM To: 7x12minilathe@... Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Threading for the first time Thanks, guys... I like the idea of a wheel, but I would think it really needs a handle to hold onto. One of the linked designs was set up with both. I'll pick one and go with it. Now if I could just find some 1 1/8 inch round stock without having to pay more for shipping than the metal is worth! I have one inch in stock, but not 1 1/8 inch... Well, maybe I'll put together another metal order... Charlie --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "CLevinski" <clevinski@...> wrote: on the procedure, and I figure the best way is to just jump in and give it a try. I'll initially make a 3/8-24 thread, only because it's big enough for me to really see the progress as it develops. But what I would really like to make for use after that is a 5 mm thread. These are, I believe, a 0.8 mm pitch. My goal is to make some thumbscrews to hold the gear cover on my lathe without having to use a hex key to get it off. My question is whether this is too fine a thread for me to do as a beginner? Are there any special tricks? just try it again.
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Re: Bearing seal for front tapered roller bearing?
I didn't give it a thought, when I went tapered 4 years ago. Swarf doesn't get behind the chuck flange, does it?
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Then, it would have to pass the dust cover ring....... Never had any problem, or needed to disturb anything. David. Derbyshire. UK. --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Dick" <old_toolmaker@...> wrote:
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Thanks for answers on my query about metric button head screws for 7x12 topslide handles
My silly (sounds so much better than effing??) pc has been in a bounce mode for our 7x12 group or is it yahoo??
Anyway, I am fortunate to live in the Pacific Northwest not that far from the I-5 corridor so have access to Seattle Tacoma industrial complex and associated suppliers. I wanted to confirm the screw size so I could stop at Tacoma Screw tomorrow to
get two of those screws for my 7x12. I like the idea Mert shared about using a power screwdriver in the button head socket
to put power drive to the topslide for turning tapers.
I'd get them from Chris Wood's LMS but saving the shipping cost has real appeal.
BTW I like the comment one of made about how metric 5mm screws are very close to USA 10-32 fine. My limited experience does show that many US threads have a metric equivalent, especially if you are considering
only a few threads like on a nut. Some years ago there were Swiss rifle cleaning kits available for ther Sturmgewher (SP?)
57 combat rifles.? They had a cleaning rod in five or 6 sections with the coupling having a brass threaded portion to reduce
wear on bores. Unlike the US cleaning rods with a thread size of 8-32, these were AIR metric 5mm. I made some adaptors
on my Unimat to allow US made bore brushes to be used with the Swiss rod, I had a metric 5mm tap for that.
Later found that 10-32 would have done just as well.
Larry Murray ? ?
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Re: Question about turning down and runout
Jerry Durand
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýOn 12/06/2012 08:38 PM, ckinzer@...
wrote:
I have the rear splash guard still on so can only use one wrench, but don't have any real problem.? I shift the lathe into neutral and then turn the chuck watching my dial indicator.? I turn until I find the spot where the shaft is the most extended and then slightly loosen the closest jaw.? Turn 180 degrees and tighten the opposing jaw. Repeat. -- Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886 Skype: jerrydurand |
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Re: Question about turning down and runout
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýA real time saver with 4-jaw chucks is to use two
chuck keys, one on each side, when making each adjustment.? Much faster and
easier.
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Chuck K.
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Re: Bearing seal for front tapered roller bearing?
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýI¡¯ve done nothing.? I¡¯m working on the assumption that it is unlikely that swarf will find its way behind the chuck and past the cover plate.? Even if it does, I¡¯m assuming that the swarf would stick to the surface of the grease like flies on flypaper. ??Of course I could be completely wrong, but I¡¯ve suffered no ill effects in over 2 years of operation. ? Robert ? From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of Dick
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2012 7:49 AM To: 7x12minilathe@... Subject: [7x12minilathe] Bearing seal for front tapered roller bearing? ? ? I am installing tapered roller bearings in my 7x lathe headstock. In reading various postings on the subject I have noted that some people have used o rings and some have used automotive gasket material to prevent swarf from reaching the unsealed front bearing. I have been considering using a felt wiper gasket under the bearing cover. |
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Re: Question about turning down and runout
John Lindo
Just a thought. Cut up a?aluminium?beer can (drink the beer first) and wrap around the hex bar? like shim stock,ensure no overlap. Start to pull up the round collet into the spindle slowly checking for concentricity, when satisfied,firm up the collet. If this
works,drink another beer and keep the can. Don't throw?anything?away. John L Spain.
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Re: Question about turning down and runout
Centering square (or hex or any other even sided polygon) isn't difficult, just tedious. Start by eyeballing it centered - that's what the grooves in the face of most 4 jaw chucks are for. Next, choose a pair of flats that are 180¡ã apart, use a carriage mounted dial indicator to measure its relative height. Move the carriage towards the TS so the indicator is clear of the work, rotate the spindle 180¡ã, return the carriage so the indicator contacts the work. Note the reading; it'll usually be different than the first one. The difference between the readings is twice the amount the work is off center.
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Move opposing jaws half the difference between indicator readings, repeat the measurements. (It usually takes a couple of iterations to actually get things centered.) Repeat the process for the other pair of jaws. I usually mount the indicator behind the work & adjust horizontally to align things. There's nothing magical about that - it's sometimes handier to mount the indicator above the work, although that's more the case with larger machines. If you can't simply traverse the carriage to get the indicator clear of the work, you can use the cross slide. If you do that, you've got to retract it beyond the nominal "zero" position & advance it to "zero" to remove the free play in the feed screw. A small magnet on the chuck makes it easier to keep track of which jaws are being adjusted. A little piece of the rubbery realtor fridge magnets works well & doesn't do any damage when you forget to remove it from the chuck face before powering up the lathe;-) Roy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., Andy Franks <andyf.1108@...> wrote:
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Re: Threading for the first time
Thanks, guys... I like the idea of a wheel, but I would think it really needs a handle to hold onto. One of the linked designs was set up with both. I'll pick one and go with it. Now if I could just find some 1 1/8 inch round stock without having to pay more for shipping than the metal is worth! I have one inch in stock, but not 1 1/8 inch...
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Well, maybe I'll put together another metal order... Charlie --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "CLevinski" <clevinski@...> wrote:
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Re: Narrow angle center drill
It's the wrong shape for an engraving bit; they're normally half-round cutters with the end ground to the desired width.
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It's shaped like some type of center drill with an uncommon angle: Roy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "chucketn" <chunk07@...> wrote:
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Re: Question about turning down and runout
It's chuck error. Self centering chucks aren't dead on accurate. You may be able to reduce the error by wiggling the stock as you tighten the jaws; they don't always accurately grip the stock, especially small diameters.
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You can also improve the repeatability of the chuck by disassembling it & grooming all the pieces, paying particular attention to making sure the jaws slide freely. The real fix is making an adjustable backplate, allowing you to adjust the chuck mounting for zero runout at any arbitrary diameter. Roy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Exibar" <exibar@...> wrote:
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Re: 7x Lathe Transmission Gear Specs?
My 7x10 Lathe is from Harbor Freight
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--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "drmico60" <mikey.cox@...> wrote:
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gerry waclawiak
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