Wow!? Boy, can I read that without my
glasses!? You can make a closer and drawtube for 3-C collets right on the
7x, if you want.? I can send you pix of the one I made.
?
Mert
?
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If
I were to purchase this adapter:
?
http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2240
?
from
LMS to convert 3MT to 3C, what else would I need other than that
adapter?
?
?
I'd like to use a factory made 1/4" hex collet, and I can only find them in
3c.? which isn't too bad in cost, about $12.? The adapter is $60,
which is a bit steep, but maybe workable with wife's permission.....? I'm
just wondering if there is anything else that I'd need?? the LMS site
doesn't have anything else on there :-(
?
anyone
have one of the adapters they're not using and would like to sell?
:-)
?
?
thanks!
?
Mike
B
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On 12/07/2012 10:19 PM, Marcos wrote: Can some one please teach me how to make this.
Without seeing it up close, I'd say you have the upper and lower gears as you can see. These are held in by two tubes with flared ends (T-shape in side view). One tube fits inside the other and the screws from the planetary gears go through both tubes to lock it. Anyway, that's my first impression. -- Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886 Skype: jerrydurand
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Can some one please teach me how to make this.
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If I were to purchase this adapter: ? http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2240 ? from LMS to convert 3MT to 3C, what else would I need other than that adapter? ? ? I'd like to use a factory made 1/4" hex collet, and I can only find them in 3c.? which isn't too bad in cost, about $12.? The adapter is $60, which is a bit steep, but maybe workable with wife's permission.....? I'm just wondering if there is anything else that I'd need?? the LMS site doesn't have anything else on there :-( ? anyone have one of the adapters they're not using and would like to sell? :-) ? ? thanks! ? Mike B
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Re: Question about turning down and runout
Make a temporary collet to hold your shape of bar stock. Determine the dimension of the bar across the corners to be the bore diameter of the collet. Select a piece of Aluminum round stock about 30% larger than the measured width, and about as long as the contact width of your chuck jaws. Place the round into the chuck, mark the location of the #1 jaw with a file. Drill/bore the collet through it's length to your measurement made from the stock. The square/hex should 'just' slip through the bore. Remove the collet from the chuck and slit the full length with a hacksaw. Re-insert the collet into the chuck, put in the workpiece, and turn the features needed. This process has been used frequently to make nipples, hose barbs and such.
HTH
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--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Exibar" <exibar@...> wrote:
It certainly does help! Thank you all very much!
I can't seem to find MT3 hex collets.. But plenty of 5c hex collets... Only 5c chuck I saw was almost 300 bucks... That ain't gunna happen.... Anyone know of a source for MT3 hex 1/4" collets? Or a cheap 5c chuck?
How accurate could I get putting a hex into a round collet? Or is that just silly to even think about?
Thanks all!
Mike B
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: John Kiely <john_kiely@...>
Sender: 7x12minilathe@...
Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2012 13:13:44
To: 7x12minilathe@...<7x12minilathe@...>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Question about turning down and runout
I favour a 4 jaw chuck as the other guys have mentioned. You will need a good DTI?to go with it! Two chuck keys for the 4 jaw makes lining up easier.
If using a minilathe with a 4 jaw chuck you might have to shorten the arms/wings on the Chuck Key to fit on the inside/offside of the lathe. Space there is on certain lathes is at a premium.
If you are turning softer metals just beware that the metal can score and dig in to the chuck jaws resulting in the work piece drifting. In this case, use lighter cuts and don't squeeze the jaws too tight.
Collets are expensive, for a small run you could try a piece of hard wood in the jaws. Drill a hole with?a drill bit in the?tailstock?to fit your work piece and use a screw to hold the piece in place. It's not very hardwearing but for a small amount of use and softer metals?it's perfect.
If you don't have a 4 jaw chuck you can always try using some shims between the jaws and the workpiece to get everything bang on?
For perfect accurate and repeatable work look in to using collets as others have already suggested.
Hope some of this helps?
?
John Kiely (IRL)
________________________________
From: Exibar <exibar@...>
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Thursday, December 6, 2012 5:52 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Question about turning down and runout
Ok, so here's an interesting 'something' that I'd like thoughts on...
? First of all, I went through and ensured that my lathe is spot on with alignment, shaft not bent, chuck is spinning true (well, less than .003, about .0025 runout), etc etc
? So, I take a 6 inch piece of .050" round bar I got from Lowes, chuck it up ( 4", 3 jaw chuck), check with dial gauge and it's running true (needle swings about .001ish) and turn down about an inch and quarter down to 5/16'ths....? Check the new section and it's dead on, dial indicator barely vibrates it moves so little....
? ? I then part it off, remove the large piece from the chuck and then chuck up the freshly turned down section....? And what happens?? It has over .010" of runout....? What the heck?? Shouldn't that be running true?
? If I turn it in the chuck and then retighten, I can lessen the runout down to slight over .005...? But this is a piece that was running dead nuts on before...
? I haven't pulle my crossslide off and cleaned inspected that assembly, I always suspect the gibs...? I should check LMS for a new set of gibs... At least to cross that off the list...
? Any thoughts guys?? Is this odd or too be expected?? I don't recall ever running into this type of issue before :-(
? Thanks!
? Mike B
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
? ?
|
Re: potmeter with swicth for 7X12
Hi Alex, I think I speak for everyone to say that we are pleased if we have been able to help, that is what the group is all about. Personally I would get in touch with Amadeal, they are a good company and I know they have helped other group members in Europe with machines and spares. The part is listed at 8 UKP or about 10Euros plus shipping. Gerry W Leeds UK
To: 7x12minilathe@... From: christiansen_alex@... Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2012 19:37:04 +0000 Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: potmeter with swicth for 7X12
?
hi John, Gerry and Andy.
thank you so much..
I try to get one from one of the firms mentioned here.
I have time to wait the time it take to send it, it was just not so nice to wait for ARC ,not knowing how long.
I would not try to clean it as I have the control box on the table, and if it dont work well I have to do it all again.
and about the pot.. yes its 4k7 curve B ,so the one from ARC is correct.
about the lathe.. I was asking SIEG,at the time I bought it,wether it was a C2 or C3..SIEG did answer ,yes its a C2..
later I learned here in the group that it was a Real bull.. it has all the extras like adjustment for leadscrew..
think I can conclude that Einhell bt ml 300 is a real bull and type 2C
alex
|
Re: potmeter with swicth for 7X12
hi John, Gerry and Andy.
thank you so much..
I try to get one from one of the firms mentioned here.
I have time to wait the time it take to send it, it was just not so nice to wait for ARC ,not knowing how long.
I would not try to clean it as I have the control box on the table, and if it dont work well I have to do it all again.
and about the pot.. yes its 4k7 curve B ,so the one from ARC is correct.
about the lathe.. I was asking SIEG,at the time I bought it,wether it was a C2 or C3..SIEG did answer ,yes its a C2..
later I learned here in the group that it was a Real bull.. it has all the extras like adjustment for leadscrew..
think I can conclude that Einhell bt ml 300 is a real bull and type 2C
alex
|
Re: potmeter with swicth for 7X12
Try Amadeal. http://www.amadeal.co.uk/
If not I have a spare.Please send PM to me,we can sort things out. John L Spain
From: alex4459jopiklal44
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Friday, December 7, 2012 5:44 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] potmeter with swicth for 7X12
?
hello all memebers
I have the "Einhell mtb 300" minilathe
with a KBLC-240d controll board
I turned very slowly ,and did make the lathe stall..
Then It would not run anymore...
Each time I turn the speed controller to off.. and turning on again, the chuck moves a few centimeters.. trying in reverse gave the same result.
I did not think I had overloaded the regulator ,so I tried to find the reason.. with the pot ,that connect when off, in mind, I looked at this switch..
it is the switch that are defective.. it sometimes make contact and sometimes are not effectiv closed.. it often make a short short when I turn on the speedcontroller.
Well no need to examine how and why.. the switch in the speed control is not good anymore.
Then I looked at ARC in UK for buying a new one.. they have them , but it is out of stock.
finally.. hope someone sometime can use this mail ,if he have the same problem and
second.. Do any of you know of another supplier here in Europe
thanks for listening
alex
Denmark
|
At less than a buck a piece why would you want to go through all that effort to make thumbscrews??? My theory is never make what you can buy cheap.
|
Re: potmeter with swicth for 7X12
Alex/Andy,
I have a RB mini-lathe supplied several years ago by Warco that has the KB board.
?When the pot went iffy several years ago i was able to rescue/ restore it for quite some time by using switch cleaner spray and in the meantime order a pot from ARC (intended for the Sieg) and that was a straight swap and appeared identical to the one I removed. They are both 4.7k (if I remember correctly) and also fit the sieg mini-mill
Gerry W
Leeds UK
To: 7x12minilathe@... From: andyf.1108@... Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2012 17:01:27 +0000 Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: potmeter with swicth for 7X12
?
Hi Alex,
I think the spares supplied by Arc Euro Trade are mainly for lathes from the Sieg factory in China. If your lathe has a KBLC240D board, it probably comes from the rival Real Bull factory. I do not know if they use the same switch.
Here are two UK companies who sell Real Bull mini-lathes, and may be able to help with a replacement:
< >
< >
Have you tried a electrical switch-cleaning spray? Sometimes these can restore a dirty switch so it works again. The improvement may not last for long, so it would be wise to order a new one.
Andy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "alex4459jopiklal44" wrote:
>
> hello all memebers
> I have the "Einhell mtb 300" minilathe
> with a KBLC-240d controll board
>
> I turned very slowly ,and did make the lathe stall..
> Then It would not run anymore...
> Each time I turn the speed controller to off.. and turning on again, the chuck moves a few centimeters.. trying in reverse gave the same result.
> I did not think I had overloaded the regulator ,so I tried to find the reason.. with the pot ,that connect when off, in mind, I looked at this switch..
> it is the switch that are defective.. it sometimes make contact and sometimes are not effectiv closed.. it often make a short short when I turn on the speedcontroller.
>
> Well no need to examine how and why.. the switch in the speed control is not good anymore.
>
> Then I looked at ARC in UK for buying a new one.. they have them , but it is out of stock.
>
> finally.. hope someone sometime can use this mail ,if he have the same problem and
> second.. Do any of you know of another supplier here in Europe
> thanks for listening
> alex
> Denmark
>
|
Re: Narrow angle center drill
On 12/07/2012 08:39 AM, Stephen Castello wrote: Looks like the same taper as on a pencil. Could be used to wood screw
holes with a dowel sharpened in a pencil sharpener. Could be for something like making nozzles too. -- Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886 Skype: jerrydurand
|
Re: potmeter with swicth for 7X12
Hi Alex,
I think the spares supplied by Arc Euro Trade are mainly for lathes from the Sieg factory in China. If your lathe has a KBLC240D board, it probably comes from the rival Real Bull factory. I do not know if they use the same switch.
Here are two UK companies who sell Real Bull mini-lathes, and may be able to help with a replacement:
< >
< >
Have you tried a electrical switch-cleaning spray? Sometimes these can restore a dirty switch so it works again. The improvement may not last for long, so it would be wise to order a new one.
Andy
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "alex4459jopiklal44" <christiansen_alex@...> wrote:
hello all memebers
I have the "Einhell mtb 300" minilathe
with a KBLC-240d controll board
I turned very slowly ,and did make the lathe stall..
Then It would not run anymore...
Each time I turn the speed controller to off.. and turning on again, the chuck moves a few centimeters.. trying in reverse gave the same result.
I did not think I had overloaded the regulator ,so I tried to find the reason.. with the pot ,that connect when off, in mind, I looked at this switch..
it is the switch that are defective.. it sometimes make contact and sometimes are not effectiv closed.. it often make a short short when I turn on the speedcontroller.
Well no need to examine how and why.. the switch in the speed control is not good anymore.
Then I looked at ARC in UK for buying a new one.. they have them , but it is out of stock.
finally.. hope someone sometime can use this mail ,if he have the same problem and
second.. Do any of you know of another supplier here in Europe
thanks for listening
alex
Denmark
|
potmeter with swicth for 7X12
hello all memebers
I have the "Einhell mtb 300" minilathe
with a KBLC-240d controll board
I turned very slowly ,and did make the lathe stall..
Then It would not run anymore...
Each time I turn the speed controller to off.. and turning on again, the chuck moves a few centimeters.. trying in reverse gave the same result.
I did not think I had overloaded the regulator ,so I tried to find the reason.. with the pot ,that connect when off, in mind, I looked at this switch..
it is the switch that are defective.. it sometimes make contact and sometimes are not effectiv closed.. it often make a short short when I turn on the speedcontroller.
Well no need to examine how and why.. the switch in the speed control is not good anymore.
Then I looked at ARC in UK for buying a new one.. they have them , but it is out of stock.
finally.. hope someone sometime can use this mail ,if he have the same problem and
second.. Do any of you know of another supplier here in Europe
thanks for listening
alex
Denmark
|
Re: Narrow angle center drill
On Thu, 06 Dec 2012 11:57:31 -0000, "chucketn" <chunk07@...> had a flock of green cheek conures squawk out: I took a picture of the center drill in question next to the 60° one from my set from LMS.
Any ideas as to what it's tued for?
Chuck Looks like the same taper as on a pencil. Could be used to wood screw holes with a dowel sharpened in a pencil sharpener. -- Stephen Movie fact: Mothers routinely cook eggs, bacon and waffles for their family every morning even though their husband and children never have time to eat it.
|
Re: Question about turning down and runout
It's that two-step method that, to me, is just too
tedious.? But the first thing I did with the lathe was remove that pesky
splash guard.? I consider it a nuisance because, on such a small lathe, it
is just in too close.? If splash guarding is needed, a little free standing
one can be positioned on the bench further back.? More room around the
lathe front and back also makes lathe cleanup easier.
?
Chuck K.
?
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Show quoted text
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2012 8:43
PM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Question
about turning down and runout
?
A real time saver with 4-jaw chucks is to use
two chuck keys, one on each side, when making each adjustment.? Much
faster and easier.
?
Chuck K.
?
I have the rear splash guard still on so
can only use one wrench, but don't have any real problem.? I shift the
lathe into neutral and then turn the chuck watching my dial indicator.? I
turn until I find the spot where the shaft is the most extended and then
slightly loosen the closest jaw.? Turn 180 degrees and tighten the
opposing jaw. Repeat. --
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc.
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype: jerrydurand
|
Re: Bearing seal for front tapered roller bearing?
In the Files section see the zip file near the end titled:
tapered-roller-bearing.zip
This contains a description of the bearing change process, including pictures and a description of how to make seals.
John
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--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Dick" <old_toolmaker@...> wrote:
I am installing tapered roller bearings in my 7x lathe headstock. In reading various postings on the subject I have noted that some people have used o rings and some have used automotive gasket material to prevent swarf from reaching the unsealed front bearing. I have been considering using a felt wiper gasket under the bearing cover.
I welcome input on this topic and look forward to hearing about how you have addressed this issue.
Thanks
Dick
|
Re: Threading for the first time
A wheel is fine for things like collet closers, or to add inertia to the
spindle, or if you like to stop & start the spindle by hand, as is necessary
on a sewing machine, but for threading, you need torque and control, and the
hand crank rules. The radius wants to be 6" at least, and 8" is better.
Mert
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-----Original Message----- From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of CLevinski Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2012 10:02 PM To: 7x12minilathe@... Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Threading for the first time Thanks, guys... I like the idea of a wheel, but I would think it really needs a handle to hold onto. One of the linked designs was set up with both. I'll pick one and go with it. Now if I could just find some 1 1/8 inch round stock without having to pay more for shipping than the metal is worth! I have one inch in stock, but not 1 1/8 inch... Well, maybe I'll put together another metal order... Charlie --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "CLevinski" <clevinski@...> wrote:
OK, looks like I need to make a hand-crank for the mini-lathe...
Thanks to all for their suggestions and comments!
Charlie
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "CLevinski" <clevinski@> wrote:
Hi, All,
I'm going to try single-point threading for the first time. I've read up
on the procedure, and I figure the best way is to just jump in and give it a try. I'll initially make a 3/8-24 thread, only because it's big enough for me to really see the progress as it develops. But what I would really like to make for use after that is a 5 mm thread. These are, I believe, a 0.8 mm pitch. My goal is to make some thumbscrews to hold the gear cover on my lathe without having to use a hex key to get it off. My question is whether this is too fine a thread for me to do as a beginner? Are there any special tricks?
I guess it really doesn't matter; if I screw it up (pun intended), I'll
just try it again.
Thanks,
Charlie
------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links
|
Re: Bearing seal for front tapered roller bearing?
I didn't give it a thought, when I went tapered 4 years ago. Swarf doesn't get behind the chuck flange, does it?
Then, it would have to pass the dust cover ring.......
Never had any problem, or needed to disturb anything.
David. Derbyshire. UK.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Dick" <old_toolmaker@...> wrote:
I am installing tapered roller bearings in my 7x lathe headstock. In reading various postings on the subject I have noted that some people have used o rings and some have used automotive gasket material to prevent swarf from reaching the unsealed front bearing. I have been considering using a felt wiper gasket under the bearing cover.
I welcome input on this topic and look forward to hearing about how you have addressed this issue.
Thanks
Dick
|
Thanks for answers on my query about metric button head screws for 7x12 topslide handles
My silly (sounds so much better than effing??) pc has been in a bounce mode for our 7x12 group or is it yahoo??
Anyway, I am fortunate to live in the Pacific Northwest not that far from the I-5 corridor so have access to Seattle Tacoma
industrial complex and associated suppliers. I wanted to confirm the screw size so I could stop at Tacoma Screw tomorrow to
get two of those screws for my 7x12. I like the idea Mert shared about using a power screwdriver in the button head socket
to put power drive to the topslide for turning tapers.
I'd get them from Chris Wood's LMS but saving the shipping cost has real appeal.
BTW I like the comment one of made about how metric 5mm screws are very close to USA 10-32 fine.
My limited experience does show that many US threads have a metric equivalent, especially if you are considering
only a few threads like on a nut. Some years ago there were Swiss rifle cleaning kits available for ther Sturmgewher (SP?)
57 combat rifles.? They had a cleaning rod in five or 6 sections with the coupling having a brass threaded portion to reduce
wear on bores. Unlike the US cleaning rods with a thread size of 8-32, these were AIR metric 5mm. I made some adaptors
on my Unimat to allow US made bore brushes to be used with the Swiss rod, I had a metric 5mm tap for that.
Later found that 10-32 would have done just as well.
Larry Murray
?
?
|
Re: Question about turning down and runout
A real time saver with 4-jaw
chucks is to use two chuck keys, one on each side, when making
each adjustment.? Much faster and easier.
?
Chuck K.
?
I have the rear splash guard still on so can only use one wrench,
but don't have any real problem.? I shift the lathe into neutral and
then turn the chuck watching my dial indicator.? I turn until I find
the spot where the shaft is the most extended and then slightly
loosen the closest jaw.? Turn 180 degrees and tighten the opposing
jaw.
Repeat.
--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc.
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype: jerrydurand
|
gerry waclawiak
GadgetBuilder