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Re: Threading for the first time
Jim Dunmyer
开云体育Charlie,
The others have given you great advice on threading, so jump in and give it
a try. Be sure to have a suitable nut on hand to check the thread when you get
“close”. In addition to the tips from the others, I’ll offer these two: file or
turn a bevel on the LH end of the part before beginning, and run a file over the
top of the threads for just a bit when you’re done. Be certain that the part is
clean when you are checking it with the nut, so a burr or small particle doesn’t
throw you off.
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The hand crank is VERY useful on these little lathes, as they turn pretty
fast for threading. At least for my old, slow reflexes. I do nearly all my
threading on my LeBlond, which runs as slow as 20 RPM. “Third” speed is only 40
RPM on that machine, and that’s about as fast as I’ve ever run it while
threading.
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My original cover screws have the head recessed in deep counterbores in the
cover, so it wasn’t easy to do what Mert did with his. Instead, I cut off an
Allen wrench and pressed the piece into a turned & knurled brass knob. This
makes it quite easy to spin those bolts out or in.
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Another way to get around this sort of problem is to cut the head off a
suitable screw and silver solder it into an extension that you’ve made.
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? From: CLevinski
Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2012 7:57 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Threading for the first
time ?
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Hi, All, |
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Re: Threading for the first time
Hi Charlie,
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M5 x 0.8 converts to 0.197" x 31.5 tpi. A 10-32 UNF screw is 0.190" x 32 tpi so would probably do the job, and you might have a 10-32 die available. However, single-pointing a thread will be a useful exercise, and M5 x 0.8 (that's a thread from the metric coarse series) is certainly not too fine for you to have a go. Three tips, linked to the fact that you will be working up to a shoulder: First, make a run-out groove up against the shoulder, where the thread will end. Secondly, use a spindle handcrank. Under power, the carriage will move so rapidly that you will find it hard to stop in the right place, particularly as you would have to stop the motor rather than disengaging the half nuts (see below). Thirdly, looking at the tool from above, its 60 degree point should be offset to the chuck side so you can work up close to the shoulder. And a fourth tip: assuming you have an inch leadscrew, yiour threading dial won't work when cutting a metric thread, unless you use an approximation which is an exact number of tpi, like the 32 tpi mentioned above. So the half nuts must be left engaged throughout, and the carriage returned to the start point (after withdrawing the tool a little) by cranking the spindle the other way. That's another good reason for the hand crank; it's a lot less bother that stopping the motor, changing its direction with the F/R switch and restarting it at the beginning and end of each pass. Good luck! Andy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "CLevinski" <clevinski@...> wrote:
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Re: Threading for the first time
MERTON B BAKER
I still have the piece I made for my very first threading project in machine
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tool lab back in 1948. A 3/4 x 8 Acme jack screw. Fun. Threading is very exciting at 8 tpi. Much less so at 24. Turning the spindle with a hand crank makes it much less so. Now about the cover screws. I just pressed brass butterflies on the heads the original Allen screws for my 7x lathe. Mert -----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of CLevinski Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2012 7:58 AM To: 7x12minilathe@... Subject: [7x12minilathe] Threading for the first time Hi, All, I'm going to try single-point threading for the first time. I've read up on the procedure, and I figure the best way is to just jump in and give it a try. I'll initially make a 3/8-24 thread, only because it's big enough for me to really see the progress as it develops. But what I would really like to make for use after that is a 5 mm thread. These are, I believe, a 0.8 mm pitch. My goal is to make some thumbscrews to hold the gear cover on my lathe without having to use a hex key to get it off. My question is whether this is too fine a thread for me to do as a beginner? Are there any special tricks? I guess it really doesn't matter; if I screw it up (pun intended), I'll just try it again. Thanks, Charlie ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links |
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Re: Threading for the first time
开云体育The only thing to watch out for is the speed that the carriage moves towards the chuck. Hand turn the chuck as the whole process happens quickly for each pass. Take light cuts and have the cross slide set at 29.5Degrees.Good luck, Cheers, Andrew in Melbourne On 05/12/12 23:57, CLevinski wrote:
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Threading for the first time
Hi, All,
I'm going to try single-point threading for the first time. I've read up on the procedure, and I figure the best way is to just jump in and give it a try. I'll initially make a 3/8-24 thread, only because it's big enough for me to really see the progress as it develops. But what I would really like to make for use after that is a 5 mm thread. These are, I believe, a 0.8 mm pitch. My goal is to make some thumbscrews to hold the gear cover on my lathe without having to use a hex key to get it off. My question is whether this is too fine a thread for me to do as a beginner? Are there any special tricks? I guess it really doesn't matter; if I screw it up (pun intended), I'll just try it again. Thanks, Charlie |
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Re: What is description for the button head screws used to replace the allen heads on cross and topslide handles?
MERTON B BAKER
8mm 6x1 sounds about right. On the box, they are described as 6x8. Metric
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screws are described by listing their diameter & thread pitch in millimeters. a 6x1 screw is 6mm in dia and the threads are 1mm from peak to peak. The length of such screws is also in mm. 6x1 Allen head screw usually take 5mm Allen wrenches, but the button head ones take the 4mm size. Mert -----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of ToolRoomTrustee@... Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2012 6:19 AM To: 7x12minilathe@... Subject: [7x12minilathe] What is description for the button head screws used to replace the allen heads on cross and topslide handles? Naybe it;s because I am awke too early (3:13 AM here) but I can't find the description of the button head metric screws used to replace the allen head metric socket screws used to hold topslide and crosslide handles in place. I looked at LMS on line catalog and only button heads they have are M6x8. Are these the right ones? Friday I visit daughter, enroute in Tacoma Screw a major fastener store in western WA state, prefer to get them there than pay another $5-6 mail charge, Larry Murray |
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What is description for the button head screws used to replace the allen heads on cross and topslide handles?
Naybe it;s because I am awke too early (3:13 AM here) but I can't find the description of the button head metric screws used to
replace the allen head metric socket screws used to hold topslide and crosslide handles in place. I looked at LMS on line catalog
and only button heads they have are M6x8. Are these the right ones?
Friday I visit daughter, enroute in Tacoma Screw a major fastener store in western WA state, prefer to get them there than pay another $5-6
mail charge,
Larry Murray ?
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Re: Some Beginner Questions
There are some basic lathe & machining references in the "files" & "links" sections. There are also some good tutorials linked to or included in:
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The classic basic operation manual is South Bend's "How to Run a Lathe" - since they were interested in making satisfied customers, they produced some good manuals. Don't be put off by some of the stuff having been written prior to WWI - the basics haven't really changed, although, some of the cutting tool materials have. Ti & Mg aren't all that exotic to work with, just not commonly encountered. You're more likely to run into unspecified grades of stainless steel, some of which require deep cuts to avoid the top layer work hardening & becoming difficult to machine. Roy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "skypecaptain" <skypecaptain@...> wrote:
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Re: Narrow angle center drill
Does it look like a spotting drill?
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Roy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "chucketn" <chunk07@...> wrote:
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Re: New to the list
MERTON B BAKER
I was bitten by the lathe bug before I was in my teens. You are going about
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this in a very logical way. Books. Then the lathe. No matter what lathe you buy, you will probably want, sooner or later, a larger one. If space is no problem, you will find, depending on where you live, that larger (0ver 12" swing) lathes are not nearly as expensive as new small ones. I turned down a 15X48 one because I didn't have room for it. The cost is in moving 'em, and the further away, the more it is. That said, The biggest bargain in a small lathe is one of the 7x Chinese Minis. I have 4 in the shop, one still in the crate. -----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of mark@... Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2012 10:10 PM To: 7x12minilathe@... Subject: [7x12minilathe] New to the list Hello, I have a major interest in home shop machining, partly in support of automotive hobbies but also just for fabrication purposes (small equipment, tools, models, etc). For some weird reason I can't explain, I am also interested in making my shop tools (yeah, even lathes, milling machines, etc) but have to be tempered by reality so I can otherwise get things done. I have yet to buy or build a lathe but have extreme interest in picking one up near term. I've been looking small (Unimat, Sherline, Taig) to large (9 or 10 inch swing...yes they get pricey) and would be interested in any advice on the best choice for a first lathe. I've been buying books from Lindsay Publications for more than 20 years...and yes I know they are going out of business in Feb 2013. I have their "last catalog". I also have some vintage Southbend publications. In the distant past, I've done quite a bit of fab work--lathe, milling machine, shaper, welding, all the other typical tool suspects and so am not a complete novice, but have been a way from it for quite a while as well. Mark Knoxville, TN USA |
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Re: Narrow angle center drill
开云体育Could
it be a countersink drill?
Michael - USA Micro-Mark MicroLux
7x16
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Re: hey
Welcome to the forum, you can turn steel ,brass, plastic etc. You probably can turn any material a large lathe can turn.? Naturally there are limitations.These are small lathes, for small work.Get a copy of " How to Run a lathe by South Bend". This is a booklet that has a wealth of information that pertains to most lathes,large or small.You may even be able to get a larger lathe that is used for $500.00. Then you want to take someone
with you that knows what their looking at. I just took a friend to a garage sale that had a Clausing Lathe for $1000.00. I told him to buy the lathe and do not try ?to knock a nickel off the price. The lathe belonged to a fellow that took care of it and had just about every attachment . It came with 3 jaw chuck, 6 jaw chuck, 4 jaw chuck ,tailstock 3 jaw chuck,regular 3/4" tailstock chuck. This lathe had only a little wear at the head stock.I'm pretty sure they could have gotten a lot more money for this lathe. The lathe will be in Jerry's garage on Friday,he got a rigging outfit to move it. mike
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Steel/Material supplies in the southern England
Hi,
I've been lurking a few months while reading the posts. Very interesting and I have learnt a lot so far! One question I have to the members located in the south of England is where do you source your metal stock from? I have been using some online stores for round bar stock but really would like to find a local source of off-cuts and larger bits for making a rear tool post etc... (Probably something people want to keep to themselves...) I'm based around Guildford. Thanks! Jim. |
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Re: hey
开云体育At $500, you are looking at used, or maybe a Harbor Freight 7x10 Mini Lathe on sale, and with a 20% off coupon. ?That is what I have, and they will cut metal fine.? Of course, they are only good for small parts. ?Even though the? 7x10 can theoretically turn a 7 inch diameter piece of metal, it is not practical going beyond 3 inches without some modifications like increasing the torque of the lathe.? They come with a 3 inch chuck, which is a good fit for those lathes, and you will likely be most satisfied with the lathe if you plan to turn objects up to 2 inches.? Generally, lathes fall into two broad categories, metal and wood working.? They are easily distinguished, for wood working lathes use hand held tools while metal working lathes have a carriage and tool holder.? The other primary distinction is speed.? Metal lathes run relatively slow while woodworking lathes have much higher RPM’s. ? From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of skypecaptain
Sent: Monday, December 03, 2012 11:48 PM To: 7x12minilathe@... Subject: [7x12minilathe] hey ? ? I'm looking into getting a lathe for metalworking. Just working on tool steel, nothing fancy like titanium or magnesium. When deciding which one to get I researched a bit on Amazon. None of them states what material they are suitable for. Can all lathes handle metal or are there differences and how can I tell? |
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Re: Some Beginner Questions
Ian Newman
--- On Tue, 4/12/12, Clive Burdikin wrote:
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Re: Some Beginner Questions
开云体育On a slightly historic note, pre – WW1 drummond 3.5” lathes were supplied
with these T-shaped toolrests for use in hand-graving metals.
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Clive Burdikin
? From: tdhofstetter
Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2012 1:47 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Some Beginner
Questions ?
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All lathes are definitely not suited for general metalturning work - some are
built for woodturning, and those are only really suited for that purpose...
although a wood lathe can be used for plastics and in a pinch, for aluminum
(provided you need no particular precision). The difference, once you learn to
look for it, is pretty clear at a glance - a wood lathe looks simple by
comparison to a metal lathe, having a raised T-shaped toolrest between the
headstock & tailstock, while a metal lathe has a complex saddle and
cross-slide and (usually but not always) compound slide, each with its own crank
(and sometimes additional cranks) mounted between the headstock and tailstock,
and usually has at least one leadscrew running the full length of the lathe,
right out in front. |
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Re: Some Beginner Questions
tdhofstetter
All lathes are definitely not suited for general metalturning work - some are built for woodturning, and those are only really suited for that purpose... although a wood lathe can be used for plastics and in a pinch, for aluminum (provided you need no particular precision). The difference, once you learn to look for it, is pretty clear at a glance - a wood lathe looks simple by comparison to a metal lathe, having a raised T-shaped toolrest between the headstock & tailstock, while a metal lathe has a complex saddle and cross-slide and (usually but not always) compound slide, each with its own crank (and sometimes additional cranks) mounted between the headstock and tailstock, and usually has at least one leadscrew running the full length of the lathe, right out in front.
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As always, there are exceptions. A clockmaker's metal lathe is built very much like a wood lathe except it's tiny. It's used for shaping soft (nonferrous) metals like watch cases, and is generally unsuited for repeatable precision. Also, as mentioned, wood lathes can be used for very light imprecise general shaping of aluminum. There are other, more subtle differences, like spindle threads and spindle speeds; a metal lathe generally has the ability to spin the work at lower speeds than a metal lathe, since wood likes to be cut at higher speeds than most metals (aluminum being the one notable exception, liking to be cut at high speed). Steel likes to be cut at about 1/10 the speed of wood or aluminum. Just as a wood lathe is unsuited for turning metal with the thousandth-of-an-inch precision of those slides and cranks, a metal lathe is unsuited for turning wood under most circumstances because the wood flour (like sawdust, but much finer) wicks away all the protective lubricating oil that keeps a metal lathe alive. Also, some woods like oak and cherry contain tannins, which - in the presence of even the slightest bit of moisture - cause red and black rust on the iron ways. That's not much of an problem for wood lathes, but it's a biggie for metal lathes. -- Tim -- --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "skypecaptain" <skypecaptain@...> wrote:
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Re: Some Beginner Questions
MERTON B BAKER
When I bought my tiny Unimat DB over 50 years ago, I was a bit worried about
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that same thing, but found that I could turn anything but really hard steel, say Rockwell 60 stuff. GI 4140 barrel steel could be turned with no problem. That same, I believe can be said for any lathe designed & intended to turn metal. The joker here, is the toolbit, which has to be ground reasonably close to the preferred angles, and kept sharp. This is a skill easily learned, I know this not only did I learn it, but so did every kid I ever had in machine shop classes, most of 'em there because they were unhappy with the other classes they were in. In the three years I taught these classes, I never had to send anyone to the Principal; the kids kept discipline to a minimum. I digress. For learning at the least cost, I'd recommend one of the 7x Chinese lathes, if you are buy a new machine, and you can take your pick, they are all good, and some are a lot less than others. the HF 7x10 is the least expensive, and limited only in the length of the bed. it's a little cramped for some work. It's now on sale for $400 I paid 275 for mine, but that was long ago. The 7x12s are 4" longer in the bed and much less cramped for space. I'd get a book or two on lathe operation as well. Mert -----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of skypecaptain Sent: Monday, December 03, 2012 9:58 PM To: 7x12minilathe@... Subject: [7x12minilathe] Some Beginner Questions I'm looking into getting a lathe for metalworking. Just working on tool steel, nothing fancy like titanium or magnesium. When deciding which one to get I researched a bit on Amazon. None of them states what material they are suitable for. Can all lathes handle metal or are there differences and how can I tell? I have an MS in engineering and used one lathe for metal work in one of my classes. But that was only once and many years ago. I am happy about any help I can get. Some general information or even a pointer for a useful machine for up to $500. Anything helps. Thank you. ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links |
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Re: Little Machineshop 7x12
开云体育My preferred technique is to set the compound angle to 60 degrees and then use the compound for fine adjustment, as well as providing a 1:1 dial vs. diameter ratio. ? From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of Jim Dunmyer
Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2012 10:55 AM To: 7x12minilathe@... Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Little Machineshop 7x12 ? ? Trey, It’s been my (admittedly limited) experience that smaller lathes, including the Atlas models, use the dial to indicated TOOL travel, thus removing twice that much on the diameter. Larger lathes seem to have a dial that indicates removal of that much on the diameter, just like your big machine with the DRO. You’ll probably find a switch on the DRO that allows changing from Radius to Diameter readings. ? You do need to pay attention when you go back and forth between machines. ? ???????????????????????????????????????????????????? <> ? From: Trey Sent: Saturday, December 01, 2012 9:15 PM Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Little Machineshop 7x12 ? ? Thanks everyone for all the help. I'm use to running that big summit on the rig and it's setup differently. It has a SONY DRO and if you put it at 0.010 that's how much it takes off overall. Just a lil different. Thanks again for all the support. |