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Re: 4" 4-jaw Union Mfg. chuck
Here are the dimensions:
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Roy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "paul.consolini" <consolinipj@...> wrote:
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Re: Thinking of you.
Alan a very good summary in my opinion. Can I also suggest you could go one step further and buy a battery bank, a charger and a DC to mains inverter.
This way you could have a bank of batteries as large as you like you could use a solar panel and turbine to charge it which would reduce costs and still have your mains to keep you batteries consistantly charged. You could also use a de sulphater to keep the batteries in tip top condition.
I have seen 12Volt DC to mains inverters powerfull enough to keep a 6 KW load going. Nothing to stop you using 24V 36V or 48Volt going either.
I would think that a certain amount of filtering and perhaps electronics would be needed to get it all running adequately, but I can't see why it couldn't be done.
Just letting my?mind run with your post really.
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By the way some UPS's use what is pretty much a square wave rather than a sine wave. It is actually a squarish wave. Computer's don't seem to mind this!
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John Kiely (IRL)
From: Alan Muller
To: 7x12minilathe@... Sent: Thursday, November 8, 2012 12:21 AM Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Re: Thinking of you. I think this description could be confusing.? The usual sort of "UPS" sold for use with personal computers passes the mains current through to the computer while maintaining a floating charge on the battery.? There is usually some surge and spike suppression built it.? When the power fails, there is a quick transition to running on the battery/inverter.? The output from this is usually a square wave (sometimes deceptively called "modified sine wave."? It's pretty damn modified.)? Some of the UPSs I've looked inside of seem to do some conditioning of the inverter output, some do not. These work for the purpose--at least in my experience, you can pull the plug and the computer and monitor usually don't blink.? They are about as easy to pick up free as treadmills:? People tend to discard them when the batteries die after a few years.? I have one in my basement, hooked up to a couple of external batteries, and feeding a dedicated computer circuit, the fiber optic interface, router, and a couple of lights.? (If you do this, you need to be careful that trying to charge much larger batteries than intended doesn't overload the charger....)?? (Verizon fiber optic provides a small UPS as part of the package, but it only backs up the phone, not the network access.) The other sort, as indicated, is always "on."? Rectifying, feeding a DC bus with batteries floating on it, and inverting that back to AC, sometimes a pretty clean synthesized sine wave.? These provide better isolation and no interruption at all if working, but are obviously less energy efficient as you have the constant losses of two conversions.? in some ways they are a lot like a VFD. At 01:48 PM 11/7/2012 -0500, you wrote: |
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Re: Thinking of you.
I think this description could be confusing.? The usual sort of
"UPS" sold for use with personal computers passes the mains
current through to the computer while maintaining a floating charge on
the battery.? There is usually some surge and spike suppression
built it.? When the power fails, there is a quick transition to
running on the battery/inverter.? The output from this is usually a
square wave (sometimes deceptively called "modified sine
wave."? It's pretty damn modified.)? Some of the UPSs I've
looked inside of seem to do some conditioning of the inverter output,
some do not.
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These work for the purpose--at least in my experience, you can pull the plug and the computer and monitor usually don't blink.? They are about as easy to pick up free as treadmills:? People tend to discard them when the batteries die after a few years.? I have one in my basement, hooked up to a couple of external batteries, and feeding a dedicated computer circuit, the fiber optic interface, router, and a couple of lights.? (If you do this, you need to be careful that trying to charge much larger batteries than intended doesn't overload the charger....)?? (Verizon fiber optic provides a small UPS as part of the package, but it only backs up the phone, not the network access.) The other sort, as indicated, is always "on."? Rectifying, feeding a DC bus with batteries floating on it, and inverting that back to AC, sometimes a pretty clean synthesized sine wave.? These provide better isolation and no interruption at all if working, but are obviously less energy efficient as you have the constant losses of two conversions.? in some ways they are a lot like a VFD. At 01:48 PM 11/7/2012 -0500, you wrote: ? |
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Re: Thinking of you.
Jerry Durand
On 11/7/2012 10:48 AM, MERTON B BAKER wrote:
How expensive would a really good one be?{note: some people list the stabilizer function as a regulator or automatic voltage control } The voltage stabilizers from APC are about $40 delivered for 1.2kW. These adjust for over/under voltage and clean it up, but do NOT offer any battery backup for dropouts. The voltage stabilizers from TSI Power would be something like $1300 each for 1.8kW. For filtering, stabilizing, and battery backup if you don't mind the switchover time, the APC Back-UPS Pro 1500W is about $200 but I see it says the automatic voltage control is not available on all models without saying WHICH models. So, this may or may not have it. -- Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886 Skype: jerrydurand |
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Re: Tailstok lower casting
MERTON B BAKER
I can make you one, if you want. I have replaced that part on all my 7x
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lathes with one that will stay aligned. $25 postpaid in the US. I have also converted the TS on my lathes to lock with an eccentric cam & lever, and can convert yours, but would need the TS casting here for that, if you are interested. Mert -----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of Stefan Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2012 2:12 PM To: 7x12minilathe@... Subject: [7x12minilathe] Tailstok lower casting Hi, my lower casting on tail stock is messed up. Don't know how, but it wiggles, and its hard to align it right (V is damaged). I have asked LMS do they sell just that part, but unfortunately they don't sell them in parts, only the complete tail stock. Can you tell me where can I get just the lower part, or does some one here has one spare to sell it to me? ATB Stefan ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links |
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Re: Tailstok lower casting
it is locking down properly, but in one case it locks ok, in other its a few degrees to the left. I've checked the V groove, its not aligned from the side thats closer to the chuck.
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--- In 7x12minilathe@..., robert M <rmalsbury@...> wrote:
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Re: Thinking of you.
That's the same as we have, and there is a 10 second auto delay before the generator cuts in, so as to give time to differentiate between a mains dip and a power cut, the genny runs until it is manually switched off when we are certain the power has been restored.
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Regards jb --- On Wed, 7/11/12, Vince Vielhaber <vev@...> wrote:
From: Vince Vielhaber <vev@...> |
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Re: Tailstok lower casting
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýAre you sure it is messed up? It is
possible to rotate the keeper plate 90 or more degrees and then it
won't lock down properly. Check this out before replacing!
Bob On 11/7/2012 12:13 PM, Stefan wrote: ? |
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Re: Tailstok lower casting
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Stefan" <stkovac@...> wrote:
just to add, mine lathe is Einhell MTB 3000 |
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Tailstok lower casting
Hi,
my lower casting on tail stock is messed up. Don't know how, but it wiggles, and its hard to align it right (V is damaged). I have asked LMS do they sell just that part, but unfortunately they don't sell them in parts, only the complete tail stock. Can you tell me where can I get just the lower part, or does some one here has one spare to sell it to me? ATB Stefan |
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Re: Thinking of you.
MERTON B BAKER
How expensive would a really good one be?
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Mert -----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of lists Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2012 12:55 PM To: 7x12minilathe@... Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Thinking of you. In article <1352244922.96348.YahooMailNeo@...>, John Kiely <john_kiely@...> wrote: ou might know more than me Jerry, but I was under the impression thatThe way a UPS works isn't down to manufacturer, there are two basic type of UPS 1) The simple type where the electronics form a battery charger when the mains is present but re-configure to form an inverter, to supply power from the battery, when the mains fails. The output quality is dependant on the input quality 2) The better type where you have both units present. A dedicated charger which charges the battery as long as mains is present and a separate inverter which takes power from the charger/battery to supply the load. Here the output quality is independent of what the mains is doing and is solely dependant on the quality of the inverter. These are known as "online" UPS and provide continuous power without even the slight break required for re-configuration of the other type. They are, for obvious reasons more expensive. -- Stuart ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links |
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Re: Thinking of you.
With the online UPS, you're actually running on the UPS 100% of the
time. The "mains" only power the battery charger(s) to maintain the batteries. I have an online UPS. It stands approx 5' tall and sits a couple feet from the breaker panel supplying the majority of my office. Its current configuration puts out up to 100 amps at 240 VAC. When the mains go out it will last about 90 mins with my current load. List price on this unit when new was about $25K. I didn't pay anything near that, I got lucky and got it from a liquidator from a dot-bomb a number of years ago. I don't run any of the metal working machines from it tho, just the servers and CD/DVD duplicator. During a power outage the emergency lighting isn't sufficient to run the shop on the main level until the generator is running (which usually doesn't due to insufficient nat gas pressure). I'm running on so I'll stop now. Hope everyone comes out of the new storm hitting the NY/NJ ok. Vince. On Wed, 7 Nov 2012, lists wrote: In article <1352244922.96348.YahooMailNeo@...>, Vince. -- Michigan VHF Corp. The Foggy Mist Emporium |
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Re: Thinking of you.
lists
In article <1352244922.96348.YahooMailNeo@...>,
John Kiely <john_kiely@...> wrote: ou might know more than me Jerry, but I was under the impression thatThe way a UPS works isn't down to manufacturer, there are two basic type of UPS 1) The simple type where the electronics form a battery charger when the mains is present but re-configure to form an inverter, to supply power from the battery, when the mains fails. The output quality is dependant on the input quality 2) The better type where you have both units present. A dedicated charger which charges the battery as long as mains is present and a separate inverter which takes power from the charger/battery to supply the load. Here the output quality is independent of what the mains is doing and is solely dependant on the quality of the inverter. These are known as "online" UPS and provide continuous power without even the slight break required for re-configuration of the other type. They are, for obvious reasons more expensive. -- Stuart |
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Re: Rust prevention - oil blacking
¿ªÔÆÌåÓý
Hi Roy I've only tried the kitchen oven a few times and didn't notice it lingering but that might be down to the powder I used and a separate oven is a far better idea. People regularly dump ovens when they are remodelling so it should be possible to get one for little or nothing without much difficulty If you only want to cot small parts toaster ovens are an excellent alternative taking up a lot less space Gerry W Leeds UK To: 7x12minilathe@... From: roylowenthal@... Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2012 02:16:09 +0000 Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Rust prevention - oil blacking ?
I haven't personally tried it, but, I've heard that the oven will pick up an odor from being used for powder coating. That's why a dedicated oven is recommended. They're usually available pretty cheaply from thrift stores, especially the Habitat for Humanity ones that have aisles & aisles of building materials.
Roy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., Jerry Durand wrote: > > On 11/6/2012 10:00 AM, Exibar wrote: > > > > > > That certianly validates my findings.... I've found that once a part > > has been heated and treated in that manner that it rusts quicker than > > bare machined metal :-( although I wasn't using used motor oil, after > > what you and others have said here, I have no reason to doubt the rust > > reason..... > > > > So, what I've been doing is cold blueing the parts, then sealing them > > with clear rustoleum.... Does't take ust clear to coat and seal. So it > > seems like it's working ok.... I *really* like the blued look on these > > parts.... I just wish there was a simpler and durable way to achieve > > it cheaply... > > > > Since one way to finish parts is powder coat, anyone used the Harbor > Freight power coat gun? I've seen some comments that some things are > nicer than the expensive guns. I know the voltage is lower on the HF > unit (11,000 vs 15-25,000 on others), but I think this just means a > little bit thinner coating of powder. > > The price is nice. > > Also, as to baking, I've seen some people using a kitchen oven (I assume > the spouse was out at the time). Does that work safely, or do the fumes > lead to divorce and/or explosions? > > -- > Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com > tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886 > Skype: jerrydurand > |
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Re: 8x12 mini lathe missing parts help needed
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýHarbor Freight came through for me, but it did take about 3 months.? In the end I got everything I needed to complete my 7x10 floor model purchase for free, no questions asked. ? From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of Jerry [HM]
Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2012 2:02 AM To: 7x12minilathe@... Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] 8x12 mini lathe missing parts help needed ? ? That is correct. ? Hope it works out for you.. you'll get a million+ responses saying it didnt work for them..? (but it did for me.. and a few others) ? I ordered mine long ago.. and the shiping took literally MONTHS...? so be warned.. ? if you need ASAP.. Id get as much from LMS as you can... ? ? ? ? ?
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Re: 4" 4-jaw Union Mfg. chuck
lists
On 07 Nov, Stuartlists@... wrote:
In article <k7ckgm+firm@...>, Mount your chuck on your drill press, minus the adaptor plate<Snip> Hope this all makes sense.Sorry, I need to wake up fully, that was how to drill holes in an adaptor plate to mount it onto the chuck but you already have those. A similar principle of drill and rotate can be used in your case once you have established the first hole on the correct PCD -- Stuart |
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Re: 4" 4-jaw Union Mfg. chuck
lists
In article <k7ckgm+firm@...>,
paul.consolini <consolinipj@...> wrote: Any hints for a novice on accurately locating those holes?Mount your chuck on your drill press, minus the adaptor plate (I assume you have one) and use a drill to carefully line it up on the press as if you were going to drill into one of the adapter plate fixing holes. The tapping drill for the mounting hole size should be right and should go in and out of the hole smoothly, without touching the sides as they say. Clamp it very securely in position. Lay the adaptor plate in position on top and carefully drill through with the clearance drill size, being careful to minimise thread removal from the mounting hole in the chuck - set your depth stop! Rotate the adaptor plate 90 degrees till you can get a screw through it to fix it to the chuck. Now drill your second hole. Again rotate the plate through 90deg and you can now have two screws holding the plate to the chuck. Repeat the exercise till complete. The chuck itself must not be moved during the process. Hope this all makes sense. -- Stuart |
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Re: 4" 4-jaw Union Mfg. chuck
Sounds like a good plan.
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The registration recess is the important bit; that's what sets the chuck concentric to the spindle. That said, if the chuck is an independent 4-jaw, the work will need to be set concentric to the spindle axis using a dial indicator. Thus, absolute concentricity of the recess isn't as essential as with a self-centering chuck, but eccentricity could cause imbalance and vibration. According to this drawing: < > the registration recess should be 55mm diameter, and the PCD of the bolts is 66mm PCD. You may find that the holes on your spindle flange are somewhat oversized, which may allow you a bit of leeway when setting out for the threaded holes in your backplate/adapter plate. I suppose you might get really lucky and find that your existing 4 1/4-20 holes are at a PCD of 66mm, and that 1/4" (6.35mm) studs will go through the holes in your spindle flange. Andy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "paul.consolini" <consolinipj@...> wrote:
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Re: 8x12 mini lathe missing parts help needed
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýThat is correct.
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Hope it works out for you.. you'll get a million+ responses
saying it didnt work for them..? (but it did for me.. and a few
others)
?
I ordered mine long ago.. and the shiping took literally
MONTHS...? so be warned..
?
if you need ASAP.. Id get as much from LMS as you
can...
?
?
?
?
?
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Re: 8x12 mini lathe missing parts help needed
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýThat is also how "I" understand it as well..
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HF 8x12 = LM 8x14?? (same machine.. different color,
different tooling package)
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gerry waclawiak
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