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Date

Re: Buying a mini-lathe

 

开云体育

? My post went by information found on two very well known websites and included links to each, so there was absolutely no need to "claim" anything. See for yourself:
? .
?And this message thread - with pictures - of actual .

Clue: These ChiCom imports evolve over time. Your machine may well have come with a gear to reverse the leadscrew independently of the spindle, I really don't know, but it seems exceedingly obvious that many others did not. That is, unless you think the guys over at Fignoggles AND the various 8x owners over on the CNC Zone, all have some conspiratorial reason to lie to the whole world about their very own 8x machines? Keep the prices down maybe?
?
?If you'd have just clicked those links above that were included in the original post, you would have realized everything was based on what 8x owners were saying about their own machines. It would have saved you from assuming things that ain't so. Ah well, I'll just kindly assume you must have been having a bad day and leave it at that.

?Cheers,
?John Z.

On 10/17/2011 9:45 PM, Byron wrote:

?



It is amazing how much non owners of the HF 8x12 claim to know about what it does not include.

I also had the HF shortest 7x and gave it away after I got the 8x12

Yes I also eventually got a 12x36 but the 8x12 is a keeper

Really had no need for the 7x as everything it could do the 8x could do better


Re: Buying a mini-lathe

 

to repeat myself, i checked with hf central, and they said coupon good. you can't double coupins, though.

john b

On Oct 15, 2011, at 10:00 PM, "stantonleman" <standehaven@...> wrote:

I don't believe an extra 20% off is available for the HF 8x12. It seems HF has changed their coupon and discount code policies.


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., John Brookes <haiticare2011@...> wrote:

I own both a 8x and a 7x. The 7x is like a toy compared to the 8. The 8 has massive ways, a big solid TS, and works right out of the box.
The 8x has the feel of a big lathe. I dont cut LH threads, need a feed towards the tailstock, or variable speed. I just leave it at 800 rpm for everything from aluminum to ss. If I really need a different speed, I change the belt in one minute.
At 560, its a buy.





------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



Re: Buying a mini-lathe

 

I emailed HF, and they said 20% off coupons apply to lathes. Exceptions are welders, jacks, compressors, and tool cabinets.


john b


On Oct 15, 2011, at 11:35 PM, "whispers [HM]" <whispers007@...> wrote:

well heres one for ya.. about 2+ years ago.. it was on sale for $449!.. .. and I used a %20 off coupon on it..
?
hardened waysI believe..
?
and if you want to add on the no questions asked warranty..? (like I did).. you can get a replacement if it breaks..? (I did that as well)
?
?
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2011 6:29 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Buying a mini-lathe

?

I see a 8x12 but not 8x14 (does it measure to be 14 and list as 12?)? And what codes are working online currently? Just curious for a friend not me. I already bought a Grizzly 7x12 (like not having to pay tax, that helped). The 8x12 has its drawbacks but some prefer the belt drive over variable, it is surely a heavier duty machine being 250 pounds ship weight (of course more weight in packaging Vs a 7x12 too) vs the 90 pound 7x12 ship weight.

Not being a patient person I dont like the "Item made to order. Average time to ship is 4 weeks with a maximum of 16 weeks. Customer will be contacted regarding delivery."

Big question though, does anyone know if the bed in the 8x12 is ground and hardened? Dont like the HF only having 90 day warranty though. Seen a reviewer on HF say they paid $499 with free shipping back earlier this year! Never seen the 8x HF lathe that cheap.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., John Brookes wrote:
>
> The HF 8x14 now on sale for 699. With 20% coupon that reduces to 560. The 8x14 is much more machine than the 7x.
> j
>


Re: Where to buy magnetic-base work lamp

 

hmmm as an optical engineer, let me add my 2 cents about uv and lamps. Most plastics will absorb uv and are good as filters. Exception is silicone and thin acrylic. Regarding led emission of uv, their published spectra show little or no uv even from blue types. In addition, they are encapsulated in epoxy, which absorbs uv. The cf's do emit uv, but if you keep a shade between you and direct exposure, no problem.
About uv from lamps causing cancer, I doubt it, since sunlight has much more intense uv, and it takes long exposure times to get the skin destruction seen in older beach bunnies. But its thought-provoking. The HF fluorescent has a plastic cover over the cicular lamp.
Im surprised you say metal halogen bulbs emit uv, since the spectra of hot emitters obeys a Planck spectrum which falls off steeply at high frequencies with a peak according to Wien's law:
temp x wavelength = 3000. Thus a bulb at 3000 deg will peak at 1 micron, whereas uv begins at .4 and above.
Im not sure you wanted to hear all this...
On a practical note, I notice shades I buy for floor lamps have plastic liners which crumble after only a little use with cf - a typical sign of uv degredation of the plastic. Based on that, Im leery of them. Anyone else notice this?

john b

On Oct 17, 2011, at 10:29 PM, "Roy" <roylowenthal@...> wrote:

A lot of the relatively cheap, bright ones are phosphorized blue LEDs.



Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Jerry Durand <jdurand@...> wrote:

On 10/17/2011 07:36 AM, lists wrote:
UV is certainly harmful to the skin and eyes, the $64,000 question is
whether manufacturers take the issue seriously and provide filter
coatings on the outside of the tubes.
Just to toss another wrench into the gears of life, many if not most
white LEDs are actually UV LEDs with the same type phosphors* in the
plastic as a florescent light has. So they, too, can emit UV.

* some use quantum dots instead. A very few will use multiple LED die
in 3-5 colors, but that's normally only in devices that are color
changing or for video/film lighting.

--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype: jerrydurand



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



Re: Where to buy magnetic-base work lamp

 

A lot of the relatively cheap, bright ones are phosphorized blue LEDs.



Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Jerry Durand <jdurand@...> wrote:

On 10/17/2011 07:36 AM, lists wrote:
UV is certainly harmful to the skin and eyes, the $64,000 question is
whether manufacturers take the issue seriously and provide filter
coatings on the outside of the tubes.
Just to toss another wrench into the gears of life, many if not most
white LEDs are actually UV LEDs with the same type phosphors* in the
plastic as a florescent light has. So they, too, can emit UV.

* some use quantum dots instead. A very few will use multiple LED die
in 3-5 colors, but that's normally only in devices that are color
changing or for video/film lighting.

--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype: jerrydurand


Re: Where to buy magnetic-base work lamp

 

The retail halogen lamps usually have a filter installed as a cover to prevent inadvertent contact with the halogen bulb. On some of them, it's even labeled with a warning that it must be installed.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., lists <Stuartlists@...> wrote:

In article <OOEBKAFCDAGNJFABEHBHOELOHCAA.mertbaker@...>,
MERTON B BAKER <mertbaker@...> wrote:
It's the UV end of the solar spectrum that caused
changes in the skin; this leads me to the possibility that the cancer
causing idea may have some truth in it.
UV is certainly harmful to the skin and eyes, the $64,000 question is
whether manufacturers take the issue seriously and provide filter coatings
on the outside of the tubes.

I was browsing a lighting catalogue a while back and looking at small
Halogen lamps, the sort often used for display lighting etc. The catalogue
made it clear that some types were unsuitable for use in "task lighting"
because of UV radiation, unless the fitment had some sort of UV filtering
in its construction. A different range of otherwise identical lamps had UV
filtering built into its front lens and was OK.

It all depends on how close the lamp is to the eyes, in the above
catalogue it specified a minimum distance from the eye for the
non-filtered type which was much greater than for the type with the filter.

Halogens are, of course, an incandescent type lamp.

Fluorescent have been widely used for many years as general lighting and I
know of no statistics suggesting they are any particular risk but they
are, of course, normally mounted on the ceiling, high up and some distance
from the eye. It will be when we use CFLs in table lamps, reading lamps
and local lighting by our lathes that the issues arise.

Any future statistics, however, I suspect will be heavily distorted by the
widespread, deliberate use of UV lighting (blacklighting) in clubs, discos
etc. Any rise in eye problems will be more likely caused by this than
"stray" radiation within the home or workshop.

--
Stuart


Re: Buying a mini-lathe

 

The harbor freight 8x12 (measures same as lathemaster 8x14) is dilivered from harbor freight with a extra gear to reverse the lead screw. You don't have to make one as it comes in the box.

Yes to cut left hand threads you have to bolt on the extra gear and put on the right gears for the thread pitch you wnat to cut but left hand threads don't require fabricating anything.

But unlike the 7x they are metyal gears that work quite well

It is amazing how much non owners of the HF 8x12 claim to know about what it does not include.

I also had the HF shortest 7x and gave it away after I got the 8x12

Yes I also eventually got a 12x36 but the 8x12 is a keeper

Really had no need for the 7x as everything it could do the 8x could do better

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Andrew Franks <andyf1108@...> wrote:


Though it does boast variable speed control, my Weiss 7x12 lathe is similar in many respects to an 8x, and came without a leadscrew reverse . I soon decided that a reverse would be helpful, not only for LH threading but also for plain turning up to a shoulder at the outside end of the work. In the end, the reverse proved pretty easy to implement.

I read up on fitting tumbler arrangements to 8x lathes, but as you say, the effort involved seemed "not insignificant". Realising that reverse would not be needed very often, I went for a single idler gear which could be interposed between the spindle gear and the topmost gear on the banjo. The simplest option was be to drill/tap a hole in the headstock into which a stud carrying the extra gear could be screwed when required, but the lathe was under warranty and I doubted my ability to drill in exactly the right place to achieve a good mesh with the spindle gear. Accordingly, I mounted the gear on an arm pivoting around an existing bolt into the headstock, so it can be swung into position when required, the banjo being repositioned to make room for it. Full details at < >

Not as convenient as a proper tumbler reverse, but only takes a few moments to bring into play on the rare occasions when needed.

Andy



To: 7x12minilathe@...
From: steelchipper@...
Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 19:37:11 -0400
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Buying a mini-lathe






I wouldn't advise being too quick to just dismiss being able to cut left hand threads, or to power feed away from the chuck, or bore out a workpiece where you'd have the chuck going in reverse and the tool feeding into the far side of the hole where you can see it, etc. - In short, being able to reverse the direction of the leadscrew (independently of the spindle direction) is not necessarily some minor little detail to carelessly toss away, so to speak.

A little bit of reading background might be in order:

Here, the guys at Fignoggle did a comparison of the 8x versus the 7x and the 9x .

And perhaps most importantly, here shows some 8x12/14 owners discussing their not insignificant efforts to add the necessary tumbler gears, so they can do all that reversible leadscrew stuff mentioned above. Pictures included. Clearly, at least some percentage of 8x12/14 owners do not find a reversible leadscrew to be an unnecessary "frill.".................

.


Re: Buying a mini-lathe

 

Just saw another one: HFT20



On Mon, 17 Oct 2011, Vince Vielhaber wrote:


Try TOOL20 Also go to the slick deals page for HF, I understand you
can enter one of the coupon codes online and it'll work.




On Sat, 15 Oct 2011, Clifford wrote:


Is there a 20 per cent coupon code that will work with sale items? I just tested Coupon Code : DISC20 and no-go.

Thanks
Cliff

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., John Brookes <haiticare2011@...> wrote:

The HF 8x14 now on sale for 699. With 20% coupon that reduces to 560. The 8x14 is much more machine than the 7x.
j



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links




Vince.
--
Michigan VHF Corp.


------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links




Vince.
--
Michigan VHF Corp.


Re: Where to buy magnetic-base work lamp

MERTON B BAKER
 

Jerry, I have a fireworks question. Email me off list, would you? Mert

-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of Jerry Durand
Sent: Monday, October 17, 2011 12:13 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Where to buy magnetic-base work lamp


On 10/17/2011 07:36 AM, lists wrote:
UV is certainly harmful to the skin and eyes, the $64,000 question is
whether manufacturers take the issue seriously and provide filter
coatings on the outside of the tubes.
Just to toss another wrench into the gears of life, many if not most
white LEDs are actually UV LEDs with the same type phosphors* in the
plastic as a florescent light has. So they, too, can emit UV.

* some use quantum dots instead. A very few will use multiple LED die
in 3-5 colors, but that's normally only in devices that are color
changing or for video/film lighting.

--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype: jerrydurand



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: Where to buy magnetic-base work lamp

Jerry Durand
 

On 10/17/2011 07:36 AM, lists wrote:
UV is certainly harmful to the skin and eyes, the $64,000 question is
whether manufacturers take the issue seriously and provide filter
coatings on the outside of the tubes.
Just to toss another wrench into the gears of life, many if not most
white LEDs are actually UV LEDs with the same type phosphors* in the
plastic as a florescent light has. So they, too, can emit UV.

* some use quantum dots instead. A very few will use multiple LED die
in 3-5 colors, but that's normally only in devices that are color
changing or for video/film lighting.

--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype: jerrydurand


Re: Where to buy magnetic-base work lamp

lists
 

In article <OOEBKAFCDAGNJFABEHBHOELOHCAA.mertbaker@...>,
MERTON B BAKER <mertbaker@...> wrote:
It's the UV end of the solar spectrum that caused
changes in the skin; this leads me to the possibility that the cancer
causing idea may have some truth in it.
UV is certainly harmful to the skin and eyes, the $64,000 question is
whether manufacturers take the issue seriously and provide filter coatings
on the outside of the tubes.

I was browsing a lighting catalogue a while back and looking at small
Halogen lamps, the sort often used for display lighting etc. The catalogue
made it clear that some types were unsuitable for use in "task lighting"
because of UV radiation, unless the fitment had some sort of UV filtering
in its construction. A different range of otherwise identical lamps had UV
filtering built into its front lens and was OK.

It all depends on how close the lamp is to the eyes, in the above
catalogue it specified a minimum distance from the eye for the
non-filtered type which was much greater than for the type with the filter.

Halogens are, of course, an incandescent type lamp.

Fluorescent have been widely used for many years as general lighting and I
know of no statistics suggesting they are any particular risk but they
are, of course, normally mounted on the ceiling, high up and some distance
from the eye. It will be when we use CFLs in table lamps, reading lamps
and local lighting by our lathes that the issues arise.

Any future statistics, however, I suspect will be heavily distorted by the
widespread, deliberate use of UV lighting (blacklighting) in clubs, discos
etc. Any rise in eye problems will be more likely caused by this than
"stray" radiation within the home or workshop.

--
Stuart


Re: Buying a mini-lathe

 

Try TOOL20 Also go to the slick deals page for HF, I understand you
can enter one of the coupon codes online and it'll work.




On Sat, 15 Oct 2011, Clifford wrote:


Is there a 20 per cent coupon code that will work with sale items? I just tested Coupon Code : DISC20 and no-go.

Thanks
Cliff

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., John Brookes <haiticare2011@...> wrote:

The HF 8x14 now on sale for 699. With 20% coupon that reduces to 560. The 8x14 is much more machine than the 7x.
j



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links




Vince.
--
Michigan VHF Corp.


Re: Buying a mini-lathe

MERTON B BAKER
 

When I write about the virtues of the 7x lathes, it's from the standpoint of
a hobbyist or student. I agree, it's not a heavy weight, and lacks the
power to hog off steel. If you are running a machine shop, it's just handy
to have for a small job when the other machines are tied up with job orders.
Compare it with the Unimats or the Sherline as a beginner's, or hobby lathe,
starting with the initial cost, and you see where I'm coming from.

Mert

-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of john brookes
Sent: Sunday, October 16, 2011 11:26 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Buying a mini-lathe





I hear leftie threads exist on some blog sites, but I am a right thread
guy. ;)
j

On Oct 16, 2011, at 7:37 PM, SirJohnOfYork <steelchipper@...>
wrote:


I wouldn't advise being too quick to just dismiss being able to cut
left hand threads, or to power feed away from the chuck, or bore out a
workpiece where you'd have the chuck going in reverse and the tool feeding
into the far side of the hole where you can see it, etc. - In short, being
able to reverse the direction of the leadscrew (independently of the spindle
direction) is not necessarily some minor little detail to carelessly toss
away, so to speak.

A little bit of reading background might be in order:

Here, the guys at Fignoggle did a comparison of the 8x versus the 7x
and the 9x .

And perhaps most importantly, here shows some 8x12/14 owners discussing
their not insignificant efforts to add the necessary tumbler gears, so they
can do all that reversible leadscrew stuff mentioned above. Pictures
included. Clearly, at least some percentage of 8x12/14 owners do not find a
reversible leadscrew to be an unnecessary "frill."

If that 7x, 8x, 9x or whatever size lathe is going to be the only lathe
you own, I highly recommend doing your homework on this stuff for yourself.
For example, a number of the members here own more than one lathe. That can
definitely color perceptions. An "only lathe" is not at all the same as a
small manual lathe that is an addition to go along with other bigger
lathe(s) and CNC machines and such. An "only lathe" has do do everything
lathe related that you might ever run across, with no hopping about to other
machines you do not have. :-)

More info & understanding is always better: The 7x already has the
variable speed and tumbler gears and whatnot, but it is a small light duty
machine, incapable of taking deeper cuts like the bigger machines can do, so
some operations can take a fair bit longer to get done. Then again, I
remember seeing a video from somebody right here on on this list taking 1/4"
deep cuts into steel with a carefully prepared HSS turning tool in a well
tuned 7x. Hopefully somebody here will remember that video and re-post a
link - it just shows what is possible with these things, just as those 8x
photos linked to above do - in that case of course adding tumbler gears in
order to have a reversible leadscrew.

Taking the 8x12/14 and adding a variable speed control and lever
operated tumbler gears for a reversible leadscrew would make for quite a
machine! Until, that is, somebody else notes how nice it would be to have a
quick change gearbox so you can just shift a few levers around to select a
desired feed rate or thread pitch, and, of course, a powered cross slide.
:-)

I personally can live with the more "primitive" method of manually
swapping change gears around as needed for threading operations and such,
but not having a reversible leadscrew is just going a bit too "primitive"
for me, heavier mass lathe bed and deeper cut capability right out of the
box or no. But thats just me with my one (1) 7x12 mini-lathe and my one (1)
X2 mini-mill with which I have to do everything.

I should note again, though, how so many members and group
owners/moderators on these various metalworking lists, seem to eventually
end up getting 12x or larger lathes and much bigger mills and such. Running
into jobs too big to fit little benchtop machines can be really bothersome
and may lead to major purchases for some folks. This "hobby" can sure be
heck on the wallet. :-)

In any case, best of luck!
John Z.

On 10/16/2011 11:08 AM, nissan.370z wrote:

That would be awesome but I dont compare prices when they are that old
of deals. I paid $440 for a brand new 7x12 last week and wondering if I
should return it and get the 8x12 if it is that much better. A friend of
mine is going to order one Monday if he finds a working coupon code. I still
have yet to find one that will work on that lathe.

The current price before code isnt bad, but by the time you add
shipping and tax that is more than I am spending right now (I will wait
another year or two and hopefully be buying either a used decent size
SouthBend or a new 12x-14x lathe with like 36-40 bed roughly if I have the
room for it I plan by then).

So at $440 and no tax (plus shipping cheaper than HF charges), should
I keep the 7x12 or return it and get the HF 8x lathe? (if a working coupon
code is shown to me) Or keep the 7x12 and learn on it till I can get a much
larger lathe like I want that will blow the 8x away? I am conflicted now
that I seen this deal and possible coupon?


Re: Buying a mini-lathe

Andrew Franks
 

开云体育

Though it does boast variable speed control, my Weiss 7x12 lathe is similar in many respects to an 8x, and came without?a leadscrew reverse . I soon decided that a?reverse would be helpful, not only for LH threading but also for plain turning up to a shoulder at the outside end of the work. In the end, the reverse proved pretty easy to implement.
?
I read up on fitting tumbler arrangements to 8x lathes, but as you say, the effort involved seemed "not insignificant". Realising that reverse would not be?needed very often, I went for a single idler gear which could be interposed between the spindle gear and the topmost gear on the banjo. The simplest?option was be to drill/tap a hole in the headstock into which a stud carrying the extra gear could be screwed when required, but the lathe was under warranty and I doubted my ability to drill in exactly the right place to achieve a good mesh with the spindle gear. Accordingly, I mounted the gear on an arm pivoting around an existing bolt into the headstock, so it can be swung into position when required,?the banjo being repositioned to make room for it. Full details at <??>
?
Not as convenient as a proper tumbler reverse, but only takes a few moments to?bring into play on the rare occasions when?needed.
?
Andy?

To: 7x12minilathe@...
From: steelchipper@...
Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 19:37:11 -0400
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Buying a mini-lathe

?
?I wouldn't advise being too quick to just dismiss being able to cut left hand threads, or to power feed away from the chuck, or bore out a workpiece where you'd have the chuck going in reverse and the tool feeding into the far side of the hole where you can see it, etc. - In short, being able to reverse the direction of the leadscrew (independently of the spindle direction) is not necessarily some minor little detail to carelessly toss away, so to speak.

?A little bit of reading background might be in order:

?Here, the guys at Fignoggle did a .

?And perhaps most importantly, here shows some 8x12/14 owners discussing their not insignificant efforts to , so they can do all that reversible leadscrew stuff mentioned above. Pictures included. Clearly, at least some percentage of 8x12/14 owners do not find a reversible leadscrew to be an unnecessary "frill.".................

.


Re: compare mini lathe to 6" atlas

MERTON B BAKER
 

MessageSears also sold another lathe made by AA. Mert

-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of Michael Jablonski
Sent: Sunday, October 16, 2011 7:46 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] compare mini lathe to 6" atlas





Well you're comparing products that really don't compare other than all of
them being lathes.

The Atlas and South Bend lathes were larger heavier production machines
that would run for years without failure with good general maintenance. The
South Bend was the in my opinion was the top of the heap. Most of the South
Bend lathes had quick change gear boxes making threading changes and feed
changes in a couple of seconds. I've never seen a 7x with a quick change
gear box. They all use removable gears sets which is time consuming. The
South Bend used a clutch system for the power feeds and was driven from a
keyway cut into the length of the Lead Screw which also served double duty
in keeping chips out of the split nut.. This saved wear and tear of the slip
nut and lead screw threads which were only used for threading. The split nut
was engaged with a lever, the power feed was engaged by tightening a knob on
the apron to engage the clutch. The South Bend also had power feed on the
cross slide.

The Atlas was a little lighter than the South Bend but still a very good
machine. It used the lead screw for both threading and power feeds. (Someone
can correct me if I am wrong on the lead screw.) Atlas made lathes for Sears
under the Craftsman name, so if you run across a Craftsman lathe it is most
likely an Atlas.

Once Sears started selling lots of these Atlas/Craftsman lathes,
Montgomery Wards wanted in, so they contracted with Logan Engineering to
built them a lathe to compete with Sears with. The first Logan lathes were
sold through Montgomery Wards under their Power Kraft label. A year later
Logan started manufacturing lathes under their own name and the Logan Lathe
was born.

The South Bend lathes started out in 1906. Later they moved into the old
Studebaker auto plant which had closed its doors in South Bend Indiana.
Through buy outs and mergers with LeBlonde and others, they ended up going
through several companies and I believe ended up as part of Grizzly
Industrial Inc.

The Logan/Wards were built in Chicago, Illinois from 1940 - 1971.

The Atlas lathes were built in Kalamazoo, Michigan from 1936 - 1980???

If you buy one of these larger work horses expect to do some rebuilding on
them. They have probably have lots of years of use on them but with a little
rebuilding they will be running long after you are gone.

Michael


-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of gwelo62
Sent: Sunday, October 16, 2011 1:15 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] compare mini lathe to 6" atlas



Some of you gents have used a wide array of lathes. How do the 7x and 8x
lathes compare to an Atlas or South Bend (size excepted)?

Cheers


Re: Where to buy magnetic-base work lamp

Michael Taglieri
 

If I understand you right, you're essentially saying that the millions
and millions of people in the US who use CF bulbs are all ruining their
eyes. Is there some actual evidence you can show us for this?

Mike Taglieri miket_nyc@...

Everyone has his reasons.
- Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"

----- Original Message -----
From: "Andrew" <akayton1@...>
To: <7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2011 3:27 AM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Where to buy magnetic-base work lamp


The quality of light is what will damage your eyes over time. The the CF
you get lots of light but you might not see detail well. It is in the
fine detail were accidents happen.

I use compare light to food as an example. You get lots of hamburgers
cheaply and are fed. But over time you pay for the savings in health
problems. With light the health problems will be injuries and poor eye
sight.

Cheers,

Andrew

On Sat, 2011-10-15 at 01:25 -0500, Michael Taglieri wrote:

I can see why "quality of light" would matter to someone matching
colors or
something, but why does it matter to machining? My shop is all CF
bulbs,
except one incandescent bulb near the lathe because I sometimes use it
as a
source of heat. (In fact, my whole house is CF bulbs except for one on
my
desk that my cat likes to sit under, again as a source of heat).

Mike Taglieri miket_nyc@...

Everyone has his reasons.
- Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"

----- Original Message ----- > On 09/26/2011 05:02 PM, Andrew wrote:

They phased out the 'normal" incandescent bulbs in Australia. The
only
decent alternative are halogen type. I found the CF give a lot of
light
but not the right type of light. Even the "warm" version did not
seem to
be the right quality of light.






------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links




Re: compare mini lathe to 6" atlas

Michael Taglieri
 

The Atlas was a little lighter than the South Bend but still a very good
machine. It used the lead screw for both threading and power feeds.
(Someone can correct me if I am wrong on the lead screw.) Atlas made
lathes for Sears under the Craftsman name, so if you run across a
Craftsman lathe it is most likely an Atlas.
This is true for all the Craftsman lathes but the little 6" model made by
Dunlap (). I used to own one of
these, and it was pretty dreadful compared to the Chinese minilathes. It
had about a 1/4" bore in the spindle, had no graduations on anything, and
used #0 Morse tapers. Better than no lathe at all, but the Atlas-made
lathes were far better.

Mike Taglieri miket_nyc@...

Everyone has his reasons.
- Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"


Re: Buying a mini-lathe

 

I just happen to have it handy...



mike

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., SirJohnOfYork <steelchipper@...> wrote:

I wouldn't advise being too quick to just dismiss being able to cut
left hand threads, or to power feed away from the chuck, or bore out a
workpiece where you'd have the chuck going in reverse and the tool
feeding into the far side of the hole where you can /see/ it, etc. - In
short, being able to reverse the direction of the leadscrew
(independently of the spindle direction) is not necessarily some minor
little detail to carelessly toss away, so to speak.

A little bit of reading background might be in order:

Here, the guys at Fignoggle did a comparison of the 8x versus the 7x
and the 9x
<>
.

And perhaps most importantly, here shows some 8x12/14 owners
discussing their not insignificant efforts to add the necessary tumbler
gears
<>,
so they can do all that reversible leadscrew stuff mentioned above.
Pictures included. Clearly, at least some percentage of 8x12/14 owners
do not find a reversible leadscrew to be an unnecessary "frill."

If that 7x, 8x, 9x or whatever size lathe is going to be /the only
lathe you own/, I highly recommend doing your homework on this stuff for
yourself. For example, a number of the members here own more than one
lathe. That can /definitely/ color perceptions. An "only lathe" is not
at all the same as a small manual lathe that is an addition to go along
with other bigger lathe(s) and CNC machines and such. An "only lathe"
has do do /everything/ lathe related that you might ever run across,
with no hopping about to other machines you do not have. :-)

More info & understanding is always better: The 7x already has the
variable speed and tumbler gears and whatnot, but it is a small light
duty machine, incapable of taking deeper cuts like the bigger machines
can do, so some operations can take a fair bit longer to get done. Then
again, I remember seeing a video from somebody right here on on this
list taking 1/4" deep cuts into steel with a carefully prepared HSS
turning tool in a well tuned 7x. *Hopefully somebody here will remember
that video and re-post a link* - it just shows what is /possible/ with
these things, just as those 8x photos linked to above do - in that case
of course adding tumbler gears in order to have a reversible leadscrew.

Taking the 8x12/14 and adding a variable speed control and lever
operated tumbler gears for a reversible leadscrew would make for quite a
machine! Until, that is, somebody else notes how nice it would be to
have a quick change gearbox so you can just shift a few levers around to
select a desired feed rate or thread pitch, and, of course, a /powered
cross slide/. :-)

I personally can live with the more "primitive" method of manually
swapping change gears around as needed for threading operations and
such, but not having a reversible leadscrew is just going a bit too
"primitive" for me, heavier mass lathe bed and deeper cut capability
right out of the box or no. But thats just me with my one (1) 7x12
mini-lathe and my one (1) X2 mini-mill with which I have to do
/everything/.

I should note again, though, how so many members and group
owners/moderators on these various metalworking lists, seem to
eventually end up getting 12x or larger lathes and much bigger mills and
such. Running into jobs too big to fit little benchtop machines can be
really bothersome and may lead to major purchases for some folks. This
"hobby" can sure be heck on the wallet. :-)

In any case, best of luck!
John Z.

On 10/16/2011 11:08 AM, nissan.370z wrote:

That would be awesome but I dont compare prices when they are that old
of deals. I paid $440 for a brand new 7x12 last week and wondering if
I should return it and get the 8x12 if it is that much better. A
friend of mine is going to order one Monday if he finds a working
coupon code. I still have yet to find one that will work on that lathe.

The current price before code isnt bad, but by the time you add
shipping and tax that is more than I am spending right now (I will
wait another year or two and hopefully be buying either a used decent
size SouthBend or a new 12x-14x lathe with like 36-40 bed roughly if I
have the room for it I plan by then).

So at $440 and no tax (plus shipping cheaper than HF charges), should
I keep the 7x12 or return it and get the HF 8x lathe? (if a working
coupon code is shown to me) Or keep the 7x12 and learn on it till I
can get a much larger lathe like I want that will blow the 8x away? I
am conflicted now that I seen this deal and possible coupon?


Re: compare mini lathe to 6" atlas

 

开云体育

Well you're comparing products that really don't compare other than all of them being lathes.
?
The Atlas and South Bend lathes were larger heavier production machines that would run for years without failure with good general maintenance. The South Bend was the in my opinion was the top of the heap.?Most?of the South Bend lathes had quick change gear boxes making threading changes and feed changes in a couple of seconds. I've never seen a 7x with a quick change gear box. They all use removable gears sets which is time consuming. The South Bend used a clutch system for the power feeds and was driven from a keyway cut into the length of?the Lead Screw which also served double duty in keeping chips out of the split nut.. This saved wear and tear of the slip nut and lead screw?threads which were only used for threading. The split nut was engaged with a lever, the power feed was engaged by tightening a knob on the apron to engage the clutch. The South Bend also had power feed on the cross slide.
?
The Atlas was a little lighter than the South Bend but still a very good machine. It used the lead screw for both threading and power feeds. (Someone can correct me if I am wrong on the lead screw.) Atlas made lathes for Sears under the Craftsman name, so if you run across a Craftsman lathe it is most likely an Atlas.
?
Once Sears started selling lots of these Atlas/Craftsman lathes, Montgomery Wards wanted in, so they contracted with Logan Engineering to built them a lathe to compete with Sears with. The first Logan lathes were sold through Montgomery Wards under their Power Kraft label. A year later Logan started manufacturing lathes under their own name and the Logan Lathe was born.
?
The South Bend lathes started out in 1906. Later they moved into the old Studebaker auto plant which had closed its doors in South Bend Indiana.?Through buy outs and mergers?with LeBlonde and others, they?ended up going through several companies and I believe ended up as part of Grizzly Industrial Inc.
?
The Logan/Wards were built in Chicago, Illinois from 1940 - 1971.
?
The Atlas lathes were built in?Kalamazoo, Michigan?from 1936 - 1980???
?
If you buy one of these larger work horses expect to do some rebuilding on them. They have probably have lots of years of use on them but with a little rebuilding they will be running long after you are gone.
?
Michael
?
?

-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of gwelo62
Sent: Sunday, October 16, 2011 1:15 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] compare mini lathe to 6" atlas

?

Some of you gents have used a wide array of lathes. How do the 7x and 8x lathes compare to an Atlas or South Bend (size excepted)?

Cheers


Re: Buying a mini-lathe

 

开云体育

?I wouldn't advise being too quick to just dismiss being able to cut left hand threads, or to power feed away from the chuck, or bore out a workpiece where you'd have the chuck going in reverse and the tool feeding into the far side of the hole where you can see it, etc. - In short, being able to reverse the direction of the leadscrew (independently of the spindle direction) is not necessarily some minor little detail to carelessly toss away, so to speak.

?A little bit of reading background might be in order:

?Here, the guys at Fignoggle did a .

?And perhaps most importantly, here shows some 8x12/14 owners discussing their not insignificant efforts to , so they can do all that reversible leadscrew stuff mentioned above. Pictures included. Clearly, at least some percentage of 8x12/14 owners do not find a reversible leadscrew to be an unnecessary "frill."

?If that 7x, 8x, 9x or whatever size lathe is going to be the only lathe you own, I highly recommend doing your homework on this stuff for yourself. For example, a number of the members here own more than one lathe. That can definitely color perceptions. An "only lathe" is not at all the same as a small manual lathe that is an addition to go along with other bigger lathe(s) and CNC machines and such. An "only lathe" has do do everything lathe related that you might ever run across, with no hopping about to other machines you do not have. :-)

?More info & understanding is always better: The 7x already has the variable speed and tumbler gears and whatnot, but it is a small light duty machine, incapable of taking deeper cuts like the bigger machines can do, so some operations can take a fair bit longer to get done. Then again, I remember seeing a video from somebody right here on on this list taking 1/4" deep cuts into steel with a carefully prepared HSS turning tool in a well tuned 7x. Hopefully somebody here will remember that video and re-post a link - it just shows what is possible with these things, just as those 8x photos linked to above do - in that case of course adding tumbler gears in order to have a reversible leadscrew.

?Taking the 8x12/14 and adding a variable speed control and lever operated tumbler gears for a reversible leadscrew would make for quite a machine! Until, that is, somebody else notes how nice it would be to have a quick change gearbox so you can just shift a few levers around to select a desired feed rate or thread pitch, and, of course, a powered cross slide. :-)

?I personally can live with the more "primitive" method of manually swapping change gears around as needed for threading operations and such, but not having a reversible leadscrew is just going a bit too "primitive" for me, heavier mass lathe bed and deeper cut capability right out of the box or no. But thats just me with my one (1) 7x12 mini-lathe and my one (1) X2 mini-mill with which I have to do everything.

?I should note again, though, how so many members and group owners/moderators on these various metalworking lists, seem to eventually end up getting 12x or larger lathes and much bigger mills and such. Running into jobs too big to fit little benchtop machines can be really bothersome and may lead to major purchases for some folks. This "hobby" can sure be heck on the wallet. :-)

?In any case, best of luck!
?John Z.

On 10/16/2011 11:08 AM, nissan.370z wrote:

?

That would be awesome but I dont compare prices when they are that old of deals. I paid $440 for a brand new 7x12 last week and wondering if I should return it and get the 8x12 if it is that much better. A friend of mine is going to order one Monday if he finds a working coupon code. I still have yet to find one that will work on that lathe.

The current price before code isnt bad, but by the time you add shipping and tax that is more than I am spending right now (I will wait another year or two and hopefully be buying either a used decent size SouthBend or a new 12x-14x lathe with like 36-40 bed roughly if I have the room for it I plan by then).

So at $440 and no tax (plus shipping cheaper than HF charges), should I keep the 7x12 or return it and get the HF 8x lathe? (if a working coupon code is shown to me) Or keep the 7x12 and learn on it till I can get a much larger lathe like I want that will blow the 8x away? I am conflicted now that I seen this deal and possible coupon?