Keyboard Shortcuts
ctrl + shift + ? :
Show all keyboard shortcuts
ctrl + g :
Navigate to a group
ctrl + shift + f :
Find
ctrl + / :
Quick actions
esc to dismiss
Likes
- 7x12MiniLathe
- Messages
Search
|
Re: Threading question
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýOn 10/11/2011 12:02 PM, GadgetBuilder wrote:> > > Probably metric, M4x8 > > John > > --- In 7x12minilathe@... > , "nps0" wrote: >> >> I need to shorten a couple of gun cleaning rods. Found that the >> thread was an odd one - 32 tpi (no problem with this) but the OD is >> 0.153, which falls between 6-32 and 8-32. Machinery's Handbook >> doesn't list a 7xanything thread. IS there a #7 machine screw size? >> I guess that's why we have lathes - but a die would be nice to >> clean up the threads. >> >> Norm >> > > __ Hmmm -? Interesting combination.? I measured a 4mm screw at 0.155", so the diameter is right, but the thread is definitely 32 tpi, not the same as the 4mm screw.? It's a skinny rod, so there's not enough meat to go up to an 8-32 tap.? Guess it's lathe or nothing - - - Thanks for the suggestions. Norm |
|
Re: Carbide wheel
Jerry Durand
The carbide mills I use on our small CNC are made of bacteria sized
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
powder that's been sintered. I don't know if any "solid" carbide is actually cast as one piece. On 10/11/2011 09:24 AM, Ray Kornele wrote:
Most carbide tools are high-temp BRAZED! I, too worked in a machine shop, --
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886 Skype: jerrydurand |
|
Re: Threading question
Probably metric, M4x8
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
John --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "nps0" <w6nim@...> wrote:
|
|
Re: Threading question
MERTON B BAKER
Welcome to made overseas. What I'd do in this case, is run the 8-32 tap in
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
the holes and then tap the new spigots 8-32. I've run into this before. Fool around with some scrap first.. Mert -----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of nps0 Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2011 2:37 PM To: 7x12minilathe@... Subject: [7x12minilathe] Threading question I need to shorten a couple of gun cleaning rods. Found that the thread was an odd one - 32 tpi (no problem with this) but the OD is 0.153, which falls between 6-32 and 8-32. Machinery's Handbook doesn't list a 7xanything thread. IS there a #7 machine screw size? I guess that's why we have lathes - but a die would be nice to clean up the threads. Norm ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links |
|
Threading question
I need to shorten a couple of gun cleaning rods. Found that the thread was an odd one - 32 tpi (no problem with this) but the OD is 0.153, which falls between 6-32 and 8-32. Machinery's Handbook doesn't list a 7xanything thread. IS there a #7 machine screw size? I guess that's why we have lathes - but a die would be nice to clean up the threads.
Norm |
|
Re: Carbide wheel
my understanding is the material is actually a sintered combination of carbon and tungsten which forms tungsten-carbide particles.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Machine tool cutters are formed by combining the particles with a softer cobalt (sometimes with nickel) matrix. The result is "cemented carbide". mike --- In 7x12minilathe@..., Leo Cormier <leocor@...> wrote:
|
|
Re: Carbide wheel
Ray Kornele
Mildly so. Not deafening, by a long shot. Just a moderate sound of air escaping. What surprised me was, in 1980 something, it only cost about $200. But, we had to install a refrigerated air dryer to supply air. Withouit the drier, the cooler kept shooting ice bullets, from frozen condensate from the air.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
We had some machining to do that had to be cooled, but, couldn't take liquid coolant. I don't think it was a hilsch. I assume that is a brand name? KrazyKyngeKorny (Krazy, not stupid) On Tue, Oct 11, 2011 at 9:42 AM, John Brookes <haiticare2011@...> wrote:
|
|
Re: Carbide wheel
hilsch vortex cooler. holy smokes! Was it noisy?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
John B On Oct 11, 2011, at 12:24 PM, Ray Kornele wrote:
Most carbide tools are high-temp BRAZED! I, too worked in a machine shop, |
|
Re: Carbide wheel
Ray Kornele
Most carbide tools are high-temp BRAZED! I, too worked in a machine shop,
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
and ordered many of the tools, including M-5 for some special jobs that could not be cooled with coolant. I, also, ordered, and, installed a vortex cooler. Keeps things cool by producing super cold air. KrazyKyngeKorny (Krazy, not stupid) On Tue, Oct 11, 2011 at 7:41 AM, Leo Cormier <leocor@...> wrote:
** |
|
Carbide wheel
Leo Cormier
¿ªÔÆÌåÓý
"The green wheels don't actually grind the carbide, they pull little pieces of carbide away & grind the binder."
What binder? Carbide is a sintered material, which means that tiny pieces of carbide (almost powder) are compressed under great force and heated until it binds together as one piece. As far as "pull little pieces of carbide away" goes, that is exactly what grinding is. I spent 12 years in vary large machine shops (in shipyards) and we always used the green wheel to rough the brazed carbide tools and the wet diamond wheel to put a polish on just the carbide part of the tool. In a pinch, you can get by without the diamond. Leo |
|
Re: carbide wheel
A cheap alternative to a diamond wheel is the diamond knife sharpening blocks sold widely in places like harbor freight for 15$. They have a mix of grits, and are perfectly adequate for sharpening carbide tools. Typically you use water on them. I use it for sharpening both steel and carbide with excellent results.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Tools have been sharpened by hand for thousands of years, and you get a better edge by hand. Its an interesting question if sharpening an insert is worth the trouble. I have a Silicon Carbide stone that Kennametal sells, but the diamond cuts much cleaner. The only time you need a diamond wheel is if you need to sharpen a lot of edge quickly, e.g., a professional knife sharpener, and there is really no reason to get it for sharpening a carbide lathe tool occasionally. I am a tool addict, so I bought a HF tool grinder and a diamond wheel from Enco. Total about $240. But since Ive got it, Ive used it maybe 5 minutes in 3 months! Another thing to consider is that a wheel produces an inferior result often. This is because hand sharpening has more control and hand-eye coordination. The wheel cuts so fast it is over in a few seconds, much too fast to control by hand. You basically shove the tool at the wheel and hope for a good result. Drills are easier on the wheel, and I have never sharpened a drill on the diamond block by hand. But it should be possible. I have no doubt a better result would happen. Recommendation: -Buy a 15$ diamond knife sharpening block from HF -get a squirt bottle for occasional water on block -optional- get a baking pan to contain the water. -Buy a fluorescent magnifying lap from HF. With a coupon, about $28. I have about 5 of them. A really good light, well-made. This will help you see the work piece edge. -optional - buy a stereo microscope from ebay. (120$). You will get spectacular results with it, because you will see the edge close up. JB On Oct 11, 2011, at 7:04 AM, john brookes wrote:
go diamond if you can. |
|
Re: carbide wheel
I'm thinking of getting a green wheel for my bench grinder for carbideI vote for 60, maybe 80 but not 120. I have a 120 and it's way too slow. Do any fine tuning with a diamond lap. |
|
Re: shaft and bushing for the B/C change gears
Dave
For bushings, particularly those carrying shafts that rotate at high speeds, I prefer to use Molyslip gearbox additive - straight from the can - rather than grease. This is quite a viscous fluid and seems to remain in place better than grease and a top-up spot or two, applied every year or so, penetrates easily.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
All of my power tools have had this treatment and in over 30 years I have never had any seize or noticed excessive wear. Dave. --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "mattdbartlett" <mattdbartlett@...> wrote:
|
|
Re: carbide wheel
go diamond if you can.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
jb On Oct 10, 2011, at 4:55 PM, Jerry Durand <jdurand@...> wrote:
I'm thinking of getting a green wheel for my bench grinder for carbide |
|
Re: carbide wheel
The green wheels don't actually grind the carbide, they pull little pieces of carbide away & grind the binder.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Roy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "GadgetBuilder" <John@...> wrote:
|
|
Re: carbide wheel
Ray Kornele
Without the slightest doubt.
KrazyKyngeKorny (Krazy, not stupid) On Mon, Oct 10, 2011 at 5:33 PM, Jerry Durand <jdurand@...> wrote: ??????? I believe we are in agreement here...aren't we? |
|
Re: carbide wheel
Jerry Durand
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýI believe we are in agreement here...aren't we?On 10/10/2011 05:23 PM, Ray Kornele wrote: Whenever you use a grinder, you should use a particle mask. Even though many kinds of dust are non-toxic, over a long period, they can lead to lung disease, including cancer. Do as you like, but, be forewarned. -- Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886 Skype: jerrydurand |
|
Re: carbide wheel
Ray Kornele
Whenever you use a grinder, you should use a particle mask. Even though many kinds of dust are non-toxic, over a long period, they can lead to lung disease, including cancer. Do as you like, but, be forewarned.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
KrazyKyngeKorny (Krazy, not stupid) On Mon, Oct 10, 2011 at 4:45 PM, Jerry Durand <jdurand@...> wrote:
|
|
Re: carbide wheel
Ray Kornele
Best to have two green wheels- one 60 or 80 for roughing, and, a 120 for fine finish.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
The 120 will work if you grind slow, so you don't burn the carbide. overheating carbide makes it brittle. KrazyKyngeKorny (Krazy, not stupid) On Mon, Oct 10, 2011 at 1:55 PM, Jerry Durand <jdurand@...> wrote:
|
GadgetBuilder
to navigate to use esc to dismiss