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--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <moran03@e...> wrote:

As part of adding a ball bearing and more travel to my cross slide I
removed the cross slide lead screw. I noted a sludge on the lead
screw which looks like powdered brass mixed with grease.

I suspect that the lead screw threads were simply cut and not
polished. The surface finish on the lead screw seems to be chewing
away on the soft brass and this process will probably continue since
the brass won't polish the roughness off the steel.

I suspect you are right.

Is polishing the lead screw a good thing to attempt? Is there a
better way of polishing the lead screw?

I think so, although I have never tried it.
I have *lapped* a lead screw thread on another machine, and it does
seem to have worked well.
I cut a matching thread in a piece of aluminum (it needs to be
something soft). I cut that in half across the thread, and put two
screws in to clamp it back together on the thread to be lapped. I
used a little lapping compound while running the lapping tool back
and forth by running the lathe in forward and reverse. Every few
trips (laps?) I tightened the screws slightly, keeping it just tight
enough to feel a slight drag. I think it would be easier to get it
too tight than too loose - too loose would just require a little more
lapping.

I hope that is clear enough. If you have questions on the process,
just ask.

RA

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Richard Kleinhenz
<woodnpen@o...> wrote:

Ah, that's an idea, start single point, finish with die... thank

you very much!!! Yes, I use tapmagic, and I did not use the waterpipe
extension on the chuck key, figured it I could not hold it using my
hands on teh chuck key something was wrong!

If you really want to thread that drill rod with a die, get a 4-jaw
(independent) chuck. You can get those jaws much tighter than with
a 3-jaw. Without damaging the chuck, too. ;-)

For some good information on single-point threading, see:


ad.txt

You will probably need to cut and paste that onto one line, or just
go to:

and get the only file there. It helped me learn to cut threads.

RA

A "Thread Restoring File" will do a better job of refining the
threads than free-hand sandpaper. You'll need one that includes
M1.0; should be available from a local auto parts store.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <moran03@e...> wrote:

As part of adding a ball bearing and more travel to my cross slide

I

removed the cross slide lead screw. I noted a sludge on the lead
screw which looks like powdered brass mixed with grease.

I suspect that the lead screw threads were simply cut and not
polished. The surface finish on the lead screw seems to be chewing
away on the soft brass and this process will probably continue

since

the brass won't polish the roughness off the steel. While this is

not

unexpected given the difference in hardness, the amount of sludge
indicates a lot of wear in a few months of use.

I'm considering chucking this lead screw (from the knob end) and
spinning it while using very fine sandpaper pressed into the

threads

with my fingernails - this is the way I often polish threads that I
cut since they usually seem a little rough unless this is done.

Is polishing the lead screw a good thing to attempt? Is there a
better way of polishing the lead screw? Is there a better way of
reducing wear to the brass nut? Any references to articles on the

net

addressing this?

John

Steve:

I've had that qctp bookmarked for some time but have not found the
time for it ... until now.

I just bought and am returning a micro qctp from Phase II. The
hardare is cheap and many screws will not even accept a quality
metric hex wrench. Also, the boring bar holder is bored much too
large and cannot clamp down on a 0.375" bar.

The post you built appears as though it could be as rigid (or maybe
even better) than a dovetail post due to the large surface area of
the cylinder. How does it behave during heavy roughing cuts or
parting cuts ?

Thanks for sharing your project !

Den

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Steve Thompson"
<sk.thompson@n...> wrote:

If you are on a limited budget, why not make your own. I've just

made the

one at . Works a treat.

Steve

> Hi:
>
> I've just joined the list and I have found many comments touting
the benefits of
> a quick change tool post. Being on a limited budget, though, I

was

wondering
> if the model sold by Harbor Freight
(
> Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42806) is worth the $85. Has anyone
tried the
> set? Any problems? It appears to come with some great

attacments

and
> tools. I hate to do things on the cheap, but there are other

tools

I need, and
> money is limited. Any comments or suggestions would be really
appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jason Swan


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As part of adding a ball bearing and more travel to my cross slide I
removed the cross slide lead screw. I noted a sludge on the lead
screw which looks like powdered brass mixed with grease.

I suspect that the lead screw threads were simply cut and not
polished. The surface finish on the lead screw seems to be chewing
away on the soft brass and this process will probably continue since
the brass won't polish the roughness off the steel. While this is not
unexpected given the difference in hardness, the amount of sludge
indicates a lot of wear in a few months of use.

I'm considering chucking this lead screw (from the knob end) and
spinning it while using very fine sandpaper pressed into the threads
with my fingernails - this is the way I often polish threads that I
cut since they usually seem a little rough unless this is done.

Is polishing the lead screw a good thing to attempt? Is there a
better way of polishing the lead screw? Is there a better way of
reducing wear to the brass nut? Any references to articles on the net
addressing this?

John

Are you sure that it is not hardened? Some users have
confused drill ROD with drill BLANKS. Drill blanks are
hardened and can't be turned in the lathe. Drill rod
can also be in a hardened state that can't be turned.

I have cut a number of threads in drill rod without
too much trouble, although, as Roy points out, it is
not the easiest material to work with compared with
brass or aluminum.

--- roylowenthal <roylowenthal@...> wrote:

The chuck will improve if it's reduced to its
component parts,
deburred and lubricated. There's usually one jaw
that binds against
the body, reducing the clamping force.
All that being said, drill rod is a real bear to
get clean threads
on. Single point roughing followed by a die is a
winning method,
enhanced with a thread file for final finish.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Rich
Kleinhenz"
<woodnpen@o...> wrote:

I tried to hold a piece of D size drill rod

(.246") in the stad 3"
chuck on my Homier 7x12 and cut a 1/4-20 thread, and
could not. The
rod would slip in the chuck, no matter how hard I
tried to crack the
jaws closed. Is that as expected, or do I need to
do something to my
chuck?

--
Regards,
Rich

====================================================

Richard Kleinhenz
mailto:woodnpen@o...

====================================================

[Non-text portions of this message have been

removed]


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The chuck will improve if it's reduced to its component parts,
deburred and lubricated. There's usually one jaw that binds against
the body, reducing the clamping force.
All that being said, drill rod is a real bear to get clean threads
on. Single point roughing followed by a die is a winning method,
enhanced with a thread file for final finish.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Rich Kleinhenz"
<woodnpen@o...> wrote:

I tried to hold a piece of D size drill rod (.246") in the stad 3"

chuck on my Homier 7x12 and cut a 1/4-20 thread, and could not. The
rod would slip in the chuck, no matter how hard I tried to crack the
jaws closed. Is that as expected, or do I need to do something to my
chuck?

--
Regards,
Rich
====================================================
Richard Kleinhenz
mailto:woodnpen@o...


====================================================

I was using a die. Single point is not a problem. So the chuck is simply not able to withstand the torque required for die-threading, is that it? 1/4-20 is a tough one, of course, I have no problem with 1/4-28. Just the nature of the beast then, I take it.
--
Regards,
Rich
====================================================
Richard Kleinhenz
mailto:woodnpen@...


====================================================

I have a cheapie from LMS. The mounting bar ripped off the first time I used it. I retapped for 8-32 and it's worked OK since.

* REPLY SEPARATOR *

Ah, that's an idea, start single point, finish with die... thank you very much!!! Yes, I use tapmagic, and I did not use the waterpipe extension on the chuck key, figured it I could not hold it using my hands on teh chuck key something was wrong!

--
Regards,
Rich
========================================
Richard Kleinhenz
mailto:woodnpen@...


========================================

I tried to hold a piece of D size drill rod (.246") in the stad 3" chuck on my Homier 7x12 and cut a 1/4-20 thread, and could not. The rod would slip in the chuck, no matter how hard I tried to crack the jaws closed. Is that as expected, or do I need to do something to my chuck?
--
Regards,
Rich
====================================================
Richard Kleinhenz
mailto:woodnpen@...


====================================================

If you are serious about this you could try turning a sholder on the rod in order to make the start easier. But what I would do is start the thread with single point then finish it with a die. Single point isn't really that difficult esp if you clean up with a die. Do not forget to use some tap magic or some such cutting fluid (for both the single point work and the die work.) Take it easy tightening that chuck you do not want to damage the scroll.
Regards
Bob

Rich Kleinhenz wrote:

Hello Richard,
A couple of things to look at:
1. I assume you are trying to single point the thread and not trying to use a die. Assuming that is the case start by checking how hard the drill rod is. Will a file cut it? if not then it must be anealed before threading. 2. Single point threading is done with repeated passes each slightly deeper than the one before. Your first pass should barely scratch the surface. There is a lot of info out there on threading in a lathe I am sure others will point you at some of it. The 3 jaw that comes with the 7x10 is a reasonably good chuck I doubt your problems are with it.
Regards
Bob


Rich Kleinhenz wrote:

Greetings,
I got this via e-mail. If anyone is going perhaps we could meet and
network. Based upon what I saw at the last sale in Indiana if you
want a mini-lathe or mini-mill you had better get there when they
open up for business, they only had one of each at the last sale.
Email me at iltrng@.... If any of you are registered with the
mini-mill group please forward this on to them.
Hank

A Homier Mobile Merchant Sale is going to be at the following
location:

THURSDAY, FRIDAY, SATURDAY & SUNDAY
JUNE 12, 13, 14 & 15
NORTH RIDGE PLAZA
1300 NORTH LARKIN AVENUE * IN THE FORMER SERVICE MERCHANDISE
CORNER OF LARKIN AVENUE AND THEODORE STREET
JOLIET, IL
THURS - SAT: 10 AM - 8 PM SUN: 10 AM - 6 PM

My flyer said "IN STORE ONLY"

does the HF 9x20 have true inch lead screws? ie .050"/rev rather than .0625"/rev...???

now, I have to decide if a 9x20 HF is a better choice than an 8x14 Lathermaster....definately cheaper with this promotion given shipping costs with the lathemaster....but is all the extra "start up accessories" with the lathemaster worth it.....I am sure the 8x14 will satisfy my needs size wise.

anyway...I'll toil with my own indecisiveness....JB

"Jim E." <jim0000@...> wrote:
Catalog, or in-store only? Either way, I hope I get the same flyer. I
recently bought one, $649 in-store.

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Greetings,

My 13 year old son built Junior Solar Sprint car. The wheels were machined
from black Delrin on the Homier 7x12. We made a new set of lighter wheels
tonight, since he's competing in the Northeast Championship on Sunday. (see
)

The Delrin is wonderful material to machine, except for one annoyance: the
chip comes off as a single, long string. It becomes a big, soft, fuzzy mess
that gets tangled up on the work, the tooling, the live center, the chuck,
etc. It reminds me of poodle fur. We had to stop often to clean off the
fuzz. It's especially annoying when parting off.

Is there anyway to get the chip to break into pieces? Or is it something we
have to live with?

BTW, projects like this are a good way to justify the purchase of machine
tools - "But, dear, it's for the children!"

-Ron

Hi Kelvin,

Frank Hoose's site has lots of info on
the doodads you'll need to actually make things with your lathe. Plus
lots of other useful info on setup, tuning, modifications, etc.

In addition, there is a file on the 7x10 site, "Things You Need.txt"
found here:

Between these two your wallet will be thinner than a super model!

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "lecompte126"
<lecompte126@h...> wrote:

Hello everyone,

I would like to thank every on who replied to my meassage on what
type of mini lathe to buy.

After reading the replys it seam to me the majority went with
Homier's 7x12 Metal Lathe.

I ordered my Sunday night on the internet.

Now from what I understand, it is not ready to run out of the box,

I

have to buy tools for it to be used.

Could anyone give me a list of the tools that I need to buy and

where

to get them.

Can any of these tools be made (there seems to always be a money
shortage around here) with the lathe?

Thank you for your help in this matter.

Kelvin

George,
The first thing is what do you want to do with your lathe? Buy
O.K. quality tools to practice with even if you have lathe experience on
other machines.
The best thing I ever did was get a 5" chuck for mine. It will
hold much more and works much better for some thing that I turn.
Here is the online article about doing it.



I have made bushings, threaded round stock and made little things
for around the shop that I need with my lathe with the 5 inch chuck.
Also a drill chuck, half inch or so is very handy, you can drill
more precise holes on your lathe. Maybe a quick change tool post would
help, I made my own and used a couple of tools, like a knurling tool, that
I purchased from places like Grizzly or Busy Bee.
Plus you have to remember there is never enough money to buy all
of the toys that companies sell, so a good lesson is make them yourself.
Last item that should be the first thing you buy, is the
Machinery's Handbook (an old version will do) and a copy of the Machinists'
Ready Reference. The machinery's handbook is a really wonderful thing to
have, I found a 1964 copy for $20US, plus shipping and the Machinist Ready
Reference was a 1981 copy for $10US. As that you have not indicated that
you are running a factory full of CNC machines, these older editions will
have a great deal of useful information for you and at a bargain price.


Jerry

George,
I just ordered mine as well, off ebay but it's coming from Homier. If
you hav'nt checked out these sights yet go to littlemachineshop.com
(LMS)and mini-lathe.com they are full of good information. To get me
started I ordered cutting bits from mcmaster.com they seem to have
the best pricing so for and really fast shipping. I ordered my drill
chuck from LMS as well as a dial indicator. I'm still tooling up as
well. I guess a larger lathe chuck is in my future soon. Just which
the lathe would show...lol. If you come across any good info cc me.
Thanks,
Craig


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., George Kaplan <kgmk99@y...>
wrote:

Kevin,

I also just ordered a Speedway 7 x 12 metal lathe
from Homier and it is still in route. I am a beginner
and need to also know what tools to purchase. Could
you please forwrd to me any reples that you receive on
your request and I will do the same.

Thanks,

George

--- lecompte126 <lecompte126@h...> wrote:

Hello everyone,

I would like to thank every on who replied to my
meassage on what
type of mini lathe to buy.

After reading the replys it seam to me the majority
went with
Homier's 7x12 Metal Lathe.

I ordered my Sunday night on the internet.

Now from what I understand, it is not ready to run
out of the box, I
have to buy tools for it to be used.

Could anyone give me a list of the tools that I need
to buy and where
to get them.

Can any of these tools be made (there seems to
always be a money
shortage around here) with the lathe?

Thank you for your help in this matter.

Kelvin

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).

Kevin,

I also just ordered a Speedway 7 x 12 metal lathe
from Homier and it is still in route. I am a beginner
and need to also know what tools to purchase. Could
you please forwrd to me any reples that you receive on
your request and I will do the same.

Thanks,

George

--- lecompte126 <lecompte126@...> wrote:

Hello everyone,

I would like to thank every on who replied to my
meassage on what
type of mini lathe to buy.

After reading the replys it seam to me the majority
went with
Homier's 7x12 Metal Lathe.

I ordered my Sunday night on the internet.

Now from what I understand, it is not ready to run
out of the box, I
have to buy tools for it to be used.

Could anyone give me a list of the tools that I need
to buy and where
to get them.

Can any of these tools be made (there seems to
always be a money
shortage around here) with the lathe?

Thank you for your help in this matter.

Kelvin

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Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).