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Aw shucks... why didn't I think of that? That dead center was probably grinning at me all along! Thanks

* REPLY SEPARATOR *

On 5/4/2003 at 4:18 AM roylowenthal wrote:

Use a dead center or a high-bucks live center that doesn't have a
large diameter bearing housing. With a carbide tipped dead center,
it doesn't take much pressure to steady the work. A follow rest also
works, but can be a nuisance to use.

--
Regards,
Rich
========================================
Richard Kleinhenz
mailto:woodnpen@...


========================================

Not sure if this is of any help:





Frank Hoose


--- pyapster <pyapster@...> wrote:

hi

can anyone suggest a site that explains how to set
up and use a
vernier height gauge? appreciate any help.

Peter



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Don't be overly concerned about true inch leadscrews.
The main (threading) leadscrew on the 7x lathes is
true inch. The cross feed and compound are 1mm pitch
with the calibrated wheels having 40 divisions. The
margin of error is very small (each rotation of the
handwheel is actually .03937 inches instead of .04000
inches and a single division is thus .000984 inches
rather than .00100 inches). Since you will no doubt
measure your work with "inch" measuring tools, the
error becomes negligible.

Frank Hoose



--- roylowenthal <roylowenthal@...> wrote:

There's some comparisons here:

Some of the confusion about bed length may come
from the tailstock
not being able to seat a standard dead center unless
the ram is
extended an inch or so. Also, the headstock taper
is a bit
undersize, causing the center to stick out farther
than it really
should.
IIRC, there's a 9x20 group.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@...,
haplesstechnoweenie
<haplesstechnoweenie@c...> wrote:

I also was thinking of getting one of these

machines. I am
currently trying

to figure out if I want one of the 9x20 lathes or

7xX. Wonder if
anyone in

this group has purchased one yet. I would love to

hear a
compairison

between it and the 7x12. I love the idea of true

inch lead
screws. I would

like to have the 9x20 in true inch. Any thoughts

on this will be
much

appreciated.

Ben

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<<<<<<<<The idea of scrap yard material isn't

a bad one. Let me know if you find a good cheap source. >>>>>>



i use local scrapyards all the time, our local one always has plenty of
brass and aluminium offcuts and sells by the pound[
weight] i know him well and he just lets me sort out what i want, pay and
take it away.

There's some comparisons here:

Some of the confusion about bed length may come from the tailstock
not being able to seat a standard dead center unless the ram is
extended an inch or so. Also, the headstock taper is a bit
undersize, causing the center to stick out farther than it really
should.
IIRC, there's a 9x20 group.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., haplesstechnoweenie
<haplesstechnoweenie@c...> wrote:

I also was thinking of getting one of these machines. I am

currently trying

to figure out if I want one of the 9x20 lathes or 7xX. Wonder if

anyone in

this group has purchased one yet. I would love to hear a

compairison

between it and the 7x12. I love the idea of true inch lead

screws. I would

like to have the 9x20 in true inch. Any thoughts on this will be

much

appreciated.

Ben

Use a dead center or a high-bucks live center that doesn't have a
large diameter bearing housing. With a carbide tipped dead center,
it doesn't take much pressure to steady the work. A follow rest also
works, but can be a nuisance to use.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Richard Kleinhenz
<woodnpen@o...> wrote:

When you mount a (fairly standard, from HF) live center in the

tailstock, and have a small diameter workpiece, how do you arrange
your tooling to be able to turn it? I have a TS Eng. QC toolpost.
The large body of the live center prevents me to get close enough
with the tool. If I extend the tool out, naturally it just flexes.
I use a 5/16" indexable tool from LMS, the cheapie version. The
workpiece is 3/8" or 1/2" steel rod. I think I read if you have more
the 2-3 diameters extending from the chuck, you need to support the
end. So anything over an inch or so needs support.

Do I need to use a different tool holder for this type of work?
t
--
Regards,
Rich
========================================
Richard Kleinhenz
mailto:woodnpen@o...


========================================

I bought one a couple of months ago. It works very well. The digital
readout has been very handy and their cam-lock tailstock is great.
I certainly would recommend one.

There is something to be said for a large tool bit (1/2" in our case)
clamped to the top slide in the British style with a rocker style clamp
and a stack of shims on the other side! Room and rigidity.

Bill in Boulder "Engineering as an Art Form!"

When you mount a (fairly standard, from HF) live center in the tailstock, and have a small diameter workpiece, how do you arrange your tooling to be able to turn it? I have a TS Eng. QC toolpost. The large body of the live center prevents me to get close enough with the tool. If I extend the tool out, naturally it just flexes. I use a 5/16" indexable tool from LMS, the cheapie version. The workpiece is 3/8" or 1/2" steel rod. I think I read if you have more the 2-3 diameters extending from the chuck, you need to support the end. So anything over an inch or so needs support.

Do I need to use a different tool holder for this type of work?
t
--
Regards,
Rich
========================================
Richard Kleinhenz
mailto:woodnpen@...


========================================

For external threads, Fowler (IIRC), makes a micrometer attachment
consisting of 2 triangular prisms with little elastic thingies that
hold them to the micrometer spindle & anvil. Each prism has 3
different sized flatted points, so they'll fit a wide thread range.
The set comes with a set of tables to convert measured size to
equivalent thread dimensions. They work best with a non-rotating
spindle micrometer.
There also used to be a single triangular prism, again with
different sized flatted points, that SPI made. It didn't mount to
the micrometer - it has a little wire handle.
Owning both of these gems, I usually go for the wires & lump of
modeling clay!

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "mikeaita1" <aita1@a...> wrote:

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Richard Albers"
<rralbers@j...> wrote:

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "mikeaita1" <aita1@a...>

wrote:

thanks everyone for helping
i finally cut some respectable threads today
mike aita

Congrats! I know how elated I felt when I first cut something

that

looked as good as "the pictures in the book". :-)

Of course, you realize that few items really need the precision

of

single-point cut threads (few of mine, at least). I just cut

threads

that way because I CAN!

Do you have any unthreaded round stock left? ;-)

RA

Actually I cut 9/16 12 coarse threads for a fixture i need for an
invention i am working on. the coarse threads are very forgiving.
A remaining issue is knowing when the threads are deep enough.
Taking the tailstock off to try the nut is NOT the way to go,
although with a coarse thread I found I could realign the setup.
Putting the fine edge of a caliper in the threads seemed to work

for

coarse threads.
Seems like some simple attachments to the caliper could be made to
work for fine threads and even internal threads. Is such a thing
offered for sale or do I need to make it?
Thanks again for your help.
mike

What I see as the problem with the razor blade idea is that it is
dependent on the shape of the tip of the tool cutting the thread. Any
wear and you are getting off in diameter. And if you were cutting a ASME
thread rather than a sharp Vee thread you would have another difference
to contend with. I believe that there are thread wire sets that hold onto
the calipers for easy measurment of the most critical dimension. However
if you can cut one to fit and measure it in a consistant way then
subsequent ones should trach that measurment.

Bill in Boulder "Engineering as an Art Form!"

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "phrak9" <phrak9@y...> wrote:

I found a cheapo knurler on micro-mark.com for less than $14.00

shipped. Not a big

investment if it turns out being lame. I can post the findings if

there is interest.

--Eric

Part # 82771 DIAMOND PATTERN KNURLING TOOL

eric
please let me know what you learn
mike

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., William A Williams
<bwmsbldr@j...> wrote:

< Seems like some simple attachments to the caliper could be made

to

work for fine threads and even internal threads. Is such a thing
offered for sale or do I need to make it? >

Thread wires?

Bill in Boulder "Engineering as an Art Form!"

yes thread wires will work
but i am looking for something simpler
for the thread I'm cutting, 9/16 12, shoving in the blade parts of
the caliper gives a number of about .475 for adjacent minor diameters.
Sure enough, when i cut the second one today down to that number, the
nut fit perfectly.
if i attached 2 razor blades to the jaws of the caliper, and knew the
numbers for even fine threads, I'd know just when to stop cutting.
mike
engineering on the least action principle

I found a cheapo knurler on micro-mark.com for less than $14.00 shipped. Not a big
investment if it turns out being lame. I can post the findings if there is interest.

--Eric

Part # 82771 DIAMOND PATTERN KNURLING TOOL

My first stop, however, out of stock :(

< Seems like some simple attachments to the caliper could be made to
work for fine threads and even internal threads. Is such a thing
offered for sale or do I need to make it? >

Thread wires?

Bill in Boulder "Engineering as an Art Form!"

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Richard Albers"
<rralbers@j...> wrote:

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "mikeaita1" <aita1@a...>

wrote:

thanks everyone for helping
i finally cut some respectable threads today
mike aita

Congrats! I know how elated I felt when I first cut something

that

looked as good as "the pictures in the book". :-)

Of course, you realize that few items really need the precision of
single-point cut threads (few of mine, at least). I just cut

threads

that way because I CAN!

Do you have any unthreaded round stock left? ;-)

RA

Actually I cut 9/16 12 coarse threads for a fixture i need for an
invention i am working on. the coarse threads are very forgiving.
A remaining issue is knowing when the threads are deep enough.
Taking the tailstock off to try the nut is NOT the way to go,
although with a coarse thread I found I could realign the setup.
Putting the fine edge of a caliper in the threads seemed to work for
coarse threads.
Seems like some simple attachments to the caliper could be made to
work for fine threads and even internal threads. Is such a thing
offered for sale or do I need to make it?
Thanks again for your help.
mike

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "mikeaita1" <aita1@a...> wrote:

thanks everyone for helping
i finally cut some respectable threads today
mike aita

Congrats! I know how elated I felt when I first cut something that
looked as good as "the pictures in the book". :-)

Of course, you realize that few items really need the precision of
single-point cut threads (few of mine, at least). I just cut threads
that way because I CAN!

Do you have any unthreaded round stock left? ;-)

RA

Beware the Little Machine Shop knurling tool. They are a great
supplier and offer many quality items but the knurling tool is not
one of them. I purchased one several months ago. I recently had
occasion to use it to knurl some aluminum broach handles. The first
problem was the knurls. They were very poor quality and would not cut
regardless of pressure. I threw them away and replaced then with some
quality wheels from another supplier. The new knurling wheels were
good but when I applied enough pressure to effect a knurl the arms
would bend. I will be making a new sturdier tool. This is not meant
to denigrage Little Machine Shop as I think they run an excellent
business. I did not return the tool because it was inexpensive and
reshipping is a hassle.

Les

thanks everyone for helping
i finally cut some respectable threads today
mike aita