Date

Re: steel alloys

Jim E.
 

If I know what it is, I somehow keep track of it, even the cutoffs.
This may be by label or segregation. Mine is stored in a shed. My
philosophy is if it can rust, it will. I once sprayed some 12L14 with
rust preventive, still had surface rust, so I just accept it. Same with
corrosion on certain Al alloys.

I haven't a clue what the colors mean, if anything.

Graciously,
Jim
Lakewood, CA
All Hail Rube Goldberg!

Richard Kleinhenz wrote:


Basic question: When you buy steel alloys, how can you tell what you have? Is there any kind of color coding? Sometimes rod has some yellow or blue color on it. Is that meaningful?

Secondly, if you bought some stuff and don't use it all - do you write the alloy on it with permanent marker? Or is there some way of tell what you got? I don't mean telling stainless steel from aluminum, but 12L14 from 1018 or drill rod.

How do you store it? Inside, of course, in a 'dry' basement that is unheated and not all that dry. Do you keep the alloys separated? Make up your own color coding? Do you wipe some oil on it to help prevent surface rust? Looking for ideas!

--
Regards,
Rich
========================================
Richard Kleinhenz
mailto:woodnpen@...


========================================


Re: need an advice

Jim E.
 

Become very acquainted with the local Customs personnel:


Graciously,
Jim
Lakewood, CA
All Hail Rube Goldberg!

dmitriymd wrote:


Still believe that the USA is the country of unlimited opportunities.
Would be happy to get a real advice from professionals in the
International Cargo Transportation Business while I'm establishing my
small agency in Maryland.
Dmitriy
info@...


Re: Mini Band Saws

Steve Thompson
 

Have a walk into Machine Mart and have a look at their CBS45MD bandsaw and
see if it's possible to remove the legs on a permanent basis. It looks
identical to the �169.00 HV128 from Chesters (only it's 10 quid dearer).

Steve

-----Original Message-----
From: silectric@... [mailto:silectric@...]
Sent: 11 April 2003 16:36
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Mini Band Saws


There are cheaper ones in the UK, but none as compact as this one, which
makes it ideal where space is limited. It can be bench mounted, all the
cheaper ones seem to be on floor trolleys.

Sorry to be off topic, but if anyone knows of a 'band saw' group I will go
there!!


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Re: Mini Band Saws

Clint D
 

Lathemaster dot com has a benchtop bandsaw that is cheaper, looks like it
might be a pretty good deal.
I have seen the benchtop bandsaw on ebay also
Clint

----- Original Message -----
From: silectric@...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Friday, April 11, 2003 10:35 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Mini Band Saws


There are cheaper ones in the UK, but none as compact as this one, which
makes it ideal where space is limited. It can be bench mounted, all the
cheaper ones seem to be on floor trolleys.

Sorry to be off topic, but if anyone knows of a 'band saw' group I will go
there!!





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Re: Collett Chucks and Band Saws

 

In the US, Harbor Freight sells some that cost quite a bit less than $450.

Charlie

----- Original Message -----
From: silectric@...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Friday, April 11, 2003 11:19 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Collett Chucks and Band Saws


Has anyone any experience of fitting a collett chuck to one of these lathes.
I am evaluating getting one, still, and one of the regular jobs would be with
small diameter bar which is better used with a collett chuck than a 3 jaw.

I am also looking at Band Saws. There is a small one available in the UK
which can be bench mounted. It is not the cheapest, but seems pretty powerful
for its size. Price seems to be around £300 ($450). I was wondering if anyone
had any experience of one in use. It is in issue 89 of Model Engineers
Workshop as an Emco, but Chester sell it as well under their own brand name.





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Mini Band Saws

 

There are cheaper ones in the UK, but none as compact as this one, which
makes it ideal where space is limited. It can be bench mounted, all the
cheaper ones seem to be on floor trolleys.

Sorry to be off topic, but if anyone knows of a 'band saw' group I will go
there!!


Re: need an advice

 

Good Morning Dmitri: I am employed in the coastal maritime industry. We have offices in Boston, New Jersey, Baltimore, Norfolk, Charleston, Savannah and Miami. What sort of information are you looking for? We deal primarily with the steamship lines, moving their cargo between ports via container barge. We are also involved with MARAD in D.C. I would be happy to offer any information that you might require.Nick

dmitriymd <dmdeych@...> wrote:Still believe that the USA is the country of unlimited opportunities.
Would be happy to get a real advice from professionals in the
International Cargo Transportation Business while I'm establishing my
small agency in Maryland.
Dmitriy
info@...




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Collett Chucks and Band Saws

 

Has anyone any experience of fitting a collett chuck to one of these lathes.
I am evaluating getting one, still, and one of the regular jobs would be with
small diameter bar which is better used with a collett chuck than a 3 jaw.

I am also looking at Band Saws. There is a small one available in the UK
which can be bench mounted. It is not the cheapest, but seems pretty powerful
for its size. Price seems to be around £300 ($450). I was wondering if anyone
had any experience of one in use. It is in issue 89 of Model Engineers
Workshop as an Emco, but Chester sell it as well under their own brand name.


Re: steel alloys

 


steel alloys

Richard Kleinhenz
 

Basic question: When you buy steel alloys, how can you tell what you have? Is there any kind of color coding? Sometimes rod has some yellow or blue color on it. Is that meaningful?

Secondly, if you bought some stuff and don't use it all - do you write the alloy on it with permanent marker? Or is there some way of tell what you got? I don't mean telling stainless steel from aluminum, but 12L14 from 1018 or drill rod.

How do you store it? Inside, of course, in a 'dry' basement that is unheated and not all that dry. Do you keep the alloys separated? Make up your own color coding? Do you wipe some oil on it to help prevent surface rust? Looking for ideas!

--
Regards,
Rich
========================================
Richard Kleinhenz
mailto:woodnpen@...


========================================


Re: QCTP question

jvswan
 

Thanks, everyone, for the suggestions. I would really like to make
one of my
own, but that will likely have to wait until I have more time. As a
hobbyist, I
guess I have to choose my projects since I also have a career,
family, other
hobbies, etc. I got some rudimentary experience with a Unimat before
moving
to the 7 X 12, so I'm also looking forward to getting better at this.

Anyway, I might just spend the money on other things like the four
jaw chuck
(as Bob Streimikes suggested) and some collets. I can see how cool
the
QCTP is, though. So, I'll just have to see what happens.

Thanks for all the replies to my query.

Jason

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "jvswan" <jason@v...> wrote:
Hi:

I've just joined the list and I have found many comments touting
the benefits
of
a quick change tool post. Being on a limited budget, though, I was
wondering
if the model sold by Harbor Freight (.
harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/
Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42806) is worth the $85. Has anyone
tried the
set? Any problems? It appears to come with some great attacments
and
tools. I hate to do things on the cheap, but there are other tools
I need, and
money is limited. Any comments or suggestions would be really
appreciated.

Thanks,

Jason Swan


Re: beginner needs help

Richard Albers
 

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "mikeaita1" <aita1@a...> wrote:
Please recommend some books
I am having trouble threading
thanks
mike aita
This is exactly why I uploaded the file:

<
ead.txt>

Download it, print out a copy, and take it to the lathe. Useing
something that is easy to machine like PVC pipe or aluminum conduit,
practice, practice, practice. At first, read each step as you go.
Then when you feel more comfortable, do a few steps at a time, until
you can do it in your sleep.

The method works. I learned to thread using it.

You can buy ER4/5/6 or EL4/5/6 (size to fit your lathe) as cemented
carbide or you can grind your own HSS tools. I recommend you grind
your own bits for practice, using one of the carbide ones as an
example. Don't forget to leave clearance for the helix angle of the
thread. Don't try to cut threads using one of the el-cheapo carbide
bits. You will be frustrated because they seem to have no clearance
on any edges.

Hope that helps,
RA


Re: QCTP question

Craig C. Hopewell
 

Matt,

Very excellent, low cost solution that is quite effective!

Craig

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "kf4zgz" <kf4zgz@n...> wrote:
the rest were 3/8 and 1/2 with a
couple of really BIG'UNS ( 3/4). As I use, need or have time, I
sharpen the used bits. I also take the time to grind down the top so
that the tool is the correct height. Voila! quick change! It really
doesn't take that long to loosen and tighten 3 bolts.
For example: among the lot was a cut-off tool ground from a
1/2"x1/2"x3" tool. I just took about3/16 off the top before
sharpening. This makes a very stout cut-off tool.


Re: beginner needs help

Jerry Smith
 

Mike,
Your welcome,
Jerry

At 08:35 PM 4/9/2003 +0000, you wrote:
At 08:43 PM 4/8/2003 +0000, you wrote:
thanks jerry
ordered one
mike


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Re: beginner needs help

 

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal"
<roylowenthal@y...> wrote:
Some downloadable stuff:
<> (USN
machine shop training manual)
<> (USAR
version)
<>
(Michigan State Univ. digital library, has several good old
textbooks)
There's also "Machine Shop Practice", by Moltrecht - vol. 1
covers
lathe operation. Lindsay books has reprints of lots of good stuff;
the old South Bend "How to run a lathe" is a classic.

Roy
thanks roy
mike


Re: beginner needs help

 

At 08:43 PM 4/8/2003 +0000, you wrote:
thanks jerry
ordered one
mike


Re: QCTP question

kf4zgz
 

Hi and welome to the mini-lathe world. I would also like a QCTP, but
like you, I spent the money on other tooling.
Here's a thought.....If memory serves, the HF mini-lathe requires a
5/16 tool. I bought a rather large assortment of HSS and cobalt bits
on ebay. Only 3 or 4 were 5/16, the rest were 3/8 and 1/2 with a
couple of really BIG'UNS ( 3/4). As I use, need or have time, I
sharpen the used bits. I also take the time to grind down the top so
that the tool is the correct height. Voila! quick change! It really
doesn't take that long to loosen and tighten 3 bolts.
For example: among the lot was a cut-off tool ground from a
1/2"x1/2"x3" tool. I just took about3/16 off the top before
sharpening. This makes a very stout cut-off tool.

-btw- the QCTP design I have in mind is on hold until I get a mill!

Matt

one more -btw- I get the added benefit of practicing my grinding
skills.


Re: beginner needs help

 

Some downloadable stuff:
<> (USN
machine shop training manual)
<> (USAR
version)
<>
(Michigan State Univ. digital library, has several good old textbooks)
There's also "Machine Shop Practice", by Moltrecht - vol. 1 covers
lathe operation. Lindsay books has reprints of lots of good stuff;
the old South Bend "How to run a lathe" is a classic.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "mikeaita1" <aita1@a...> wrote:
Please recommend some books
I am having trouble threading
thanks
mike aita


Re: Digest Number 97

Robert Streimikes
 

Hi Jason,
Not sure how big a hurry you are in but since this is a hobby group I will assume you are in it for the fun of it and recommend you consider making a quick change toolpost of your own. The pattern I am recommending is usually know as "Mert's toolpost" in 7X10/12 circles, although it is not new with him and indeed there is a commercial toolpost out there that uses the same concept with the addition of angular indexing . See:

and various references to "merts toolpost". These things are dooable at the rookie level and you will learn a bunch making one. Please note, you can make one of these without a mill but you will need a 4 jaw chuck (a much better use for hard to come by dollars since the stock tool post is quite usable and easly replicated you you want to change tooling quickly.) I made mine from 1.125 dia steel shaft and 1X1-1/2 hot rolled steel bar.
Regards
Bob

Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2003 17:47:07 -0000
From: "jvswan" <jason@...>
Subject: QCTP question

Hi:

I've just joined the list and I have found many comments touting the benefits of a quick change tool post. Being on a limited budget, though, I was wondering if the model sold by Harbor Freight (
Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42806) is worth the $85. Has anyone tried the set? Any problems? It appears to come with some great attacments and tools. I hate to do things on the cheap, but there are other tools I need, and money is limited. Any comments or suggestions would be really appreciated.

Thanks,

Jason Swan


Re: QCTP question

Jerry Smith
 

You know I think we would have enough knowledge and skills to make some of these things.
Try

for the basic plans.

Jerry

At 11:31 PM 4/8/2003 +0000, you wrote:
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "jvswan" <jason@v...> wrote:
Check out the one that Little Machine Shop offers for $99.00 from
T.S. Engineering, it is a nice cam action quick change tool post.

Lee Brown