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For those not on the 7x10minilathe group:

I moved to this list from a similar one that suffered from an
excess of Off Topic posts. I am hoping to participate in a list that
is focused on the small chinese hobby lath. I have been machining
as a hobby since starting in HS in 1953 and own a selection of machine
tools. Bought my HF 7x10 at a garage sale for $100 last year. I have
added a number of accessories from HF lacking only a four jaw chuck.
the current effort is to eliminate the play and adjustment crudities
in the machine and repair it up to optimum condition. Fortunatly
having other machines will ease that project.

Bill Williams (Bill in Boulder)

I recently completed the Cam Action QCTP project described on mini-
lathe.com. It works very well and I am very happy with it. I made a
few changes you might want to consider if you decide to build it. I
added a parting tool holder and changed the way the height adjusting
screw is tensioned. The height adjusting screw tensioning described
on mini-lathe.com would not work with the parting tool so I used a
more traditional method on all the tool holders including the parting
tool. Used a 3/4" 10-34 set screw threaded 1/4" into the tool holder.
A knurled 3/16" thick adjusting screw is made from 1/2" brass rod. A
split washer and 10/32 nut hold the adjusting screw in place.

I used 4 screws to hold the tools in place rather than two.
Made the cam shaft from 1/2" drill rod which allowed the use of 1/4"
rod for the handle. I posted some fairly nice photos in the photos
section. The close up photo of the parting tool (look at it in full
size) should tell the story If anyone needs more info on the parting
tool holder let me know.

tom ...

My name is Boris, I live in Jersey City, NJ.

I need to build a prototype of my invention. Unfortunately, due to my recent relocation and long process of job seeking, my funds are not in good condition yet. I can't buy simple lathe I need now, and I'm looking for access to lathe belonging to somebody else. I'm a handyman, from my High school times I remember how to use lathe and I have some money to pay for the access or for parts manufacturing
if it will be affordable to me. I do not have many friends here in NJ and nobody I know can tell me where I can access rotating lathe.

All parts I want to make now are small (all dimensions less than 4 inches). I evaluate time I need as 6 - 8 hr of work.

I will be grateful for advise regarding places in NJ/NY where rotating lathes might be accessible.

Thanks

Boris




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Thanks Bob. If I read you right if I bought an Asian 7x12 or 9x20
I'd have these same issues, right?

Thanks a bunch.

Paul





--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Bob Sunley <rosunley@s...>
wrote:

With the exception of the Micromart lathes and the leadscrews on

the US

model 7xX they all have metric cross slide and compound screws, so

no big

problem there. You have to cut to size anyway so if you have inch
measuring tools you are ok, or bring your calculator. If the

graduations on

the lathe are 40 per turn or 0.025mm per division, that is just a

hair under

0.001" by 0.0004 mm. per division.


Bob

On 11 Mar 2003, at 11:49, pkklathe wrote:

I am looking at a lathe that is set up to metric scale - the

dials

are all in metric gradations and so are the threads. How much

of a

problem is using such a machine if turning to Imperial measure?

I want to make working model steam and internal combustion

engines

from castine kits and bar stock, and assume many of the kits are
from overseas sources and come with metric drawings anyway...

It is a nice machine otherwise and a good value...

Thanks,

Paul





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One other thing, if a lot of inch threading is required, pick up an inch
leadscrew conversion kit from
along with a set of inch changegears. Solves any almost fits threading
problems.

Bob

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "pkklathe" <pkk@o...> wrote:

I am looking at a lathe that is set up to metric scale - the dials
are all in metric gradations and so are the threads. How much of a
problem is using such a machine if turning to Imperial measure?

I want to make working model steam and internal combustion engines
from castine kits and bar stock, and assume many of the kits are
from overseas sources and come with metric drawings anyway...

It is a nice machine otherwise and a good value...

Thanks,

Paul

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The graduations aren't much of a problem, threading in the system
other than the leadscrew is cut to can be a nuisance. To cut
Imperial threads, you may need different change gears than the lathe
comes with and the thread indicator probably won't work properly.
They're not insurmountable problems, more a convenience issue.

Roy

With the exception of the Micromart lathes and the leadscrews on the US
model 7xX they all have metric cross slide and compound screws, so no big
problem there. You have to cut to size anyway so if you have inch
measuring tools you are ok, or bring your calculator. If the graduations on
the lathe are 40 per turn or 0.025mm per division, that is just a hair under
0.001" by 0.0004 mm. per division.


Bob

I am looking at a lathe that is set up to metric scale - the dials
are all in metric gradations and so are the threads. How much of a
problem is using such a machine if turning to Imperial measure?

I want to make working model steam and internal combustion engines
from castine kits and bar stock, and assume many of the kits are
from overseas sources and come with metric drawings anyway...

It is a nice machine otherwise and a good value...

Thanks,

Paul

All good points, one other thing that I have found is that there is a
tendency to be too timid with the feed.You need too keep up a constant
pressure. On aluminum and brass you should be able to get a constant
curl of metal coming off.

Mark




On Thu, 2003-03-06 at 23:25, Ed Paradis wrote: WD, a little late in the
response, but I'll add my 2 cents worth,
maybe it's already been covered. I had some trouble initially with
parting, but here's what I did. I double checked the height, making
sure of the centerline, then I made sure that the parting tool was as
sharp as possible. I have found that right out of the package, many
of the cut off blades need sharpening. Check for a good relief angle
on the tip, approx 7 to 11 deg angle. Be careful not to overheat the
tip, as it will anneal and soften the end of it. Use the grind -
dip - grind - dip method,and you should be OK. You mention that
you're using the HF QCTP. I have heard of others having parting
problems with the HF cutoff tools. Maybe you can try some other
blades. You may want to make sure also, that you're parting off as
close to the chuck as possible, and that the saddle is locked to the
ways tightly. This will insure that all of the forces are applied to
the parting tool. You may wish to play with the centerline issue
slightly, with some scrap to get the feel of it. Especially on the
softer material (i.e. Aluminium, brass) you shouldn't be having this
problem...

Ed

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "wdannhardt <wdannhardt@y...>"
<wdannhardt@y...> wrote:

I recently purchased a 7 x 12 mini lathe, and so far it has been
wonderful, I am very satisfied. I purchased a quick change tool
holder from HF, and with a modification to the compound, now have
easy tool height adjustment. The only tool I have problems with is
the cut off tool.

I am using a .062" x .5" HSS tool, cutting brass and Aluminum. I
always seem to get terrible chatter. I made sure the saddle, cross
slide and compound are very tight to the ways, but it still

happens.

Does anyone have any suggestions to make this better? I've not

heard

of anyone else complain about this, so I think it must be something

I

am doing.

Thanks for your help,
WD

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WD, a little late in the response, but I'll add my 2 cents worth,
maybe it's already been covered. I had some trouble initially with
parting, but here's what I did. I double checked the height, making
sure of the centerline, then I made sure that the parting tool was as
sharp as possible. I have found that right out of the package, many
of the cut off blades need sharpening. Check for a good relief angle
on the tip, approx 7 to 11 deg angle. Be careful not to overheat the
tip, as it will anneal and soften the end of it. Use the grind -
dip - grind - dip method,and you should be OK. You mention that
you're using the HF QCTP. I have heard of others having parting
problems with the HF cutoff tools. Maybe you can try some other
blades. You may want to make sure also, that you're parting off as
close to the chuck as possible, and that the saddle is locked to the
ways tightly. This will insure that all of the forces are applied to
the parting tool. You may wish to play with the centerline issue
slightly, with some scrap to get the feel of it. Especially on the
softer material (i.e. Aluminium, brass) you shouldn't be having this
problem...

Ed

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "wdannhardt <wdannhardt@y...>"
<wdannhardt@y...> wrote:

I recently purchased a 7 x 12 mini lathe, and so far it has been
wonderful, I am very satisfied. I purchased a quick change tool
holder from HF, and with a modification to the compound, now have
easy tool height adjustment. The only tool I have problems with is
the cut off tool.

I am using a .062" x .5" HSS tool, cutting brass and Aluminum. I
always seem to get terrible chatter. I made sure the saddle, cross
slide and compound are very tight to the ways, but it still

happens.

Does anyone have any suggestions to make this better? I've not

heard

of anyone else complain about this, so I think it must be something

I

am doing.

Thanks for your help,
WD

6061 aluminum, 2.25" OD.

I've hand-sanded a few sample pieces which will be sent
off for anodizing tomorrow. But my research tells me
that anodizing actually shows up flaws more than hides
it, so I'm guessing that I'll have to really sand them
to almost a polish.

Cheers,
-Neil.

Neil,
What are the dimensions of the parts you're trying to sand?
Are they wood?
B Flint

There was some talk of adjustable backplates a while back.
Here's an update.

I just completed an adjustable backplate for the 5" 3-jaw chuck sold
by J&L Industrial. I posted a few pictures in the PHOTOS section in
a folder called Adjustable Backplate. It was a fun project and I'm
real happy with the results.

The test sheet that came with the chuck showed TIR of .002". I
verified this figure on my lathe too.
With the adjustable backplate, I am able to easily reduce runout to
well under .0005". (The needle on my dial test indicator was very
stable. I posted a movie file of this in the FILE section, but it's
a large file, so don't try downloading unless you have a broadband
connection.)

I used 12L14 steel for the backplate. Great stuff to machine!
I made the spindle recesses in the backplate only about .008"
oversize. I figured this would give me enough adjustment play to
compensate for the chuck runout of .002". I used four 10-32 brass-
tipped set screws for the adjustment capability. One of them is
shown in one of the pictures.

Here's a url to go to the photo folder

Here's a url for the video showing the runout


B Flint

Hi all,

I thought you might be interested in our very low cost Frog CNC
controller. The Frog controller is designed for lathes, mills,
rotary tables, and a variety of custom applications. It adds
precision and ease to your work.

Drop by our site today at:



Regards, Tom Wolf
eMachineShop.com

Hi all,

Until I decide which way I want to go with a lathe, would anyone here know
if it's possible to (easily) fit a lathe chuck on a drill press? No, I
don't intend to do any cutting/turning on the press, but I've had a local
machine shop make me some parts recently, and I'd like to clean them up with
sandpaper. If I could spin them, it would make life soooo much
easier/nicer. And since I'm 90% sure I'll get a lathe eventually....

If easily doable, is there a standard for the size(s) of the chucks?

Cheers,
-Neil.

Here's a link to the QCTP compound mod:



Frank Hoose


--- "bbftx <bflint@...>"
<bflint@...> wrote:

Roy,
I agree that cutting hardened shims with shop
scissors will mess
the scissors up. I avoided that annoyance by not
trying to cut the
feeler gauges! I used 'em as is. They rarely got in
the way of the
work on the lathe and that can usually be worked
around. I found
the gauges easier to stack than several pieces of
cut shim stock.

But of course, shims in general are annoying, so
going to a height-
adjustable QCTP is really the best way IMO! I
milled the underside
of my lower-compound so I could mount the Phase II
series 100 QCTP.
Much more convenient than messing with shims, and
much less chatter
(especially when combined with moving the pivot
point of the
compound, as documented elsewhere).
B Flint


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal
<roylowenthal@y...>" <roylowenthal@y...> wrote:

It's easier to shim between the tool & the

toolpost; if you

rubberband the shims to the tool, they're ready to

go when you

change tools. Feeler gauges are annoying to use

because they're

hardened; they're destructive to shop scissors!

Most any thin

metal will work; the hobby shop K&S shim

assortment, "tin" can

stock, beer can stock, heavy-duty Al foil, etc..

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@...,

"kdoney_63021

<kdoney_63021@y...>" <kdoney_63021@y...> wrote:

I know I should know this but ... My tools are

hitting below the

center of a workpiece and I need move the tool

higher. I assume

I shim the tool holder around the toolpost but

with what? Is

there a specific shim stock or should I just buy

the same shims

I used to shim the lathe?

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Roy,
I agree that cutting hardened shims with shop scissors will mess
the scissors up. I avoided that annoyance by not trying to cut the
feeler gauges! I used 'em as is. They rarely got in the way of the
work on the lathe and that can usually be worked around. I found
the gauges easier to stack than several pieces of cut shim stock.

But of course, shims in general are annoying, so going to a height-
adjustable QCTP is really the best way IMO! I milled the underside
of my lower-compound so I could mount the Phase II series 100 QCTP.
Much more convenient than messing with shims, and much less chatter
(especially when combined with moving the pivot point of the
compound, as documented elsewhere).
B Flint


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal
<roylowenthal@y...>" <roylowenthal@y...> wrote:

It's easier to shim between the tool & the toolpost; if you
rubberband the shims to the tool, they're ready to go when you
change tools. Feeler gauges are annoying to use because they're
hardened; they're destructive to shop scissors! Most any thin
metal will work; the hobby shop K&S shim assortment, "tin" can
stock, beer can stock, heavy-duty Al foil, etc..

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "kdoney_63021
<kdoney_63021@y...>" <kdoney_63021@y...> wrote:

I know I should know this but ... My tools are hitting below the
center of a workpiece and I need move the tool higher. I assume
I shim the tool holder around the toolpost but with what? Is
there a specific shim stock or should I just buy the same shims
I used to shim the lathe?

It's easier to shim between the tool & the toolpost; if you
rubberband the shims to the tool, they're ready to go when you change
tools. Feeler gauges are annoying to use because they're hardened;
they're destructive to shop scissors! Most any thin metal will work;
the hobby shop K&S shim assortment, "tin" can stock, beer can stock,
heavy-duty Al foil, etc..

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "kdoney_63021
<kdoney_63021@y...>" <kdoney_63021@y...> wrote:

I know I should know this but ... My tools are hitting below the
center of a workpiece and I need move the tool higher. I assume I
shim the tool holder around the toolpost but with what? Is there a
specific shim stock or should I just buy the same shims I used to
shim the lathe?
Thank you