Keyboard Shortcuts
ctrl + shift + ? :
Show all keyboard shortcuts
ctrl + g :
Navigate to a group
ctrl + shift + f :
Find
ctrl + / :
Quick actions
esc to dismiss
Likes
- 7x12MiniLathe
- Messages
Search
|
Re: First prototype of the laser edge/center finder done!
Michael Taglieri
Heinlein is to a typical science fiction writer what, e.g., Saul Bellow
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
is to a typical novelist. In other words, he uses the SF genre as a setting for discourse in philosophy, sociology, politics. religion, and many other subjects. Read his masterpiece, Stranger in a Strange Land, and you'll see what I mean. Back to the topic, how is a laser edge-finder supposed to work and what advantage does it have? Suppose you get your final design so it projects a nice, narrow, crisp-edged beam. What does the beam do when it touches the edge? Designs that make an electrical contact and turn on a light bulb when the tip touches the edge seem to have a clear advantage because they eliminate any need to watch the tool and see when it touches. With a laser it seems you're back to using your own judgement, just watching a laser beam instead of a solid object. How is that better, or does a laser beam actually DO something when it touches the edge? Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@... Everyone has his reasons. - Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game" On Tue, 3 Apr 2007 20:18:28 -0700 Victoria Welch <wrlabs@...> writes: On Tuesday 03 April 2007, born4something wrote:I'm[ ... ] Specialization is for insects." -- Robert HeinleinI love it. Guess I identify too. Haven't done the sonnets. Andnot sure about the dieing bit. But amazingly I've tried the restinone way or another!Strangely, a lot of wisdom from a science fiction author... |
|
Re: circuit board diagram
Michael Taglieri
I didn't mean to put down Chinese in general. They can do anything they
put their minds to and have their own space program now. But this particular factory designed and constructed these lathes to sell as cheap as possible (which is why so many of us can afford them), and they have many out-of-the-box flaws. I can understand and largely correct the mechanical ones, but there are also well-documented areas of corner-cutting, cheap components, bad solder joints, etc., in the electronics, an area I don't know much about and (more important), have no desire to learn more about. I'd rather pay to have this area fixed right than try to fix it myself and possibly screw up. Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@... Everyone has his reasons. - Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game" On Thu, 12 Apr 2007 11:49:59 +0100 "Hugh" <hughlss@...> writes: Mike,------------------------------------------------------------------------- -----
|
|
Re: Database of past messages
Chris Bailey
Before you put a LOT of effort into this, you might look at this site.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
This guy has a util that downloads ALL the messages for a Yahoo group and then stores 'em in a database. I've purchased this and I have to say I'm VERY happy with it. Chris Bailey Ian Foster wrote:
|
|
Flickr Groups
Mike Payson
In case you've never used Flickr, I should probably explain the most
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
basic steps involved with using it. It's pretty easy, but there are a couple of things that you'll need to do to make it so we can find your photos. Just joining the group isn't enough. First, when you upload a photo, you'll need to add tags. You should awlays add a tag that includes the group name (ie. grizhfminimill), plus any other relevant tags. I prefer to run the tag words together (beltdrive), though you can also surround multiple words with quotes ("belt drive"). The two tags are different, though, so searching for beltdrive won't find "belt drive", so it's better if we standardize, or you can add both. Tags are cases insensitive. After you've finished uploading, tagging, and captioning your photos, you'll also need to send it to the group for it top show up on our group page. To do that, just click on the "send to group" button just above the photo. Choose the appropriate group, click OK & you're done. If you would like to add an annotation, click on the "add note" button above the photo. Drag the note that appears to where you want it, resizing it if necessary, and type your comments. The photos are automatically scaled when you upload them, so if your photo is at least 1024x768 when you upload it, it will display on the main page in a smaller format. If you need to see more detail, click the "All Sizes" button above the photo. That's all I can think of now, but hopefully that helps! I know this sounds like a pain, but Flickr's great interface makes the whole process pretty simple. After you've done one or two, you'll have no problems at all. Mike On 4/11/07, Mike Payson <mike@...> wrote:
I wanted to let everyone know about three Flickr groups I've created: |
|
Re: Deep Hole .218 x 8"
On Wednesday 11 April 2007 15:00, taurokm3 wrote:
The material is 4140 Steel, and it will go in the chuck, it would goa v-block or barrel vise clamped to the faceplate should work but a standard twist drill wont cut straight for more than an inch I've used half round drills silver soldered to an extension shank and many many many pecks ,the shank was regular 1018 but drill rod or "piano wire" from the hobby shop would be better ,you can find half round drills here grind the shank to a 60deg point and silver solder it into a center drilled socket on the extension that gives more surface area to hold them together a couple notes you don't want to drill it to .218 right off ,drill it to maybe 3/16" then ream it up to size in several steps something like rough ,semi-finish then finish size or just under finish size then lap the last half thou if you want it to finish to 8" long you'll probably want to start with a 10-12" blank the ends will bellmouth on you when you ream and rifle it for a couple really good books on barrel drilling and gunsmithing download this cd its got about everything you'll need Brian -- "Nemo me impune lacesset" |
|
Re: circuit board diagram
Mike,
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Don't be offended, but I'm going to pick-up on what you said about the Chinese. If there's one nation of people on this earth that will give the customer what he wants, it's the Chinese. The average worker lacks the skills maybe, and, of course, we want their low-cost goods - but it's not the same thing as not caring about what customers want. Tell them and they will fix it. I should know - I import container loads of machine tools and they bend over backwards to put things right whenever there's a problem. Hugh ----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Taglieri To: 7x12minilathe@... Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2007 9:17 AM Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: circuit board diagram I'm beginning to think boosting Rabid's business isn't such a bad idea. Uncle Rabid, how much would you charge to take my controller, beef up all the crap circuit-board parts and tweak the pots for maximum safe torque and minimum safe speed, i.e, the way the Chinese would have done if they gave a shit? (And do you need just the controller box, or my motor also?) I'm normally an extremely do-it-yourself kind of guy, but the more I read here about adjusting your controller at home, the less sure I am of doing it right without frying something. I'd rather let someone do it who knows how and stick to the machining that I'm good at. Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@... Everyone has his reasons. - Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game" On Mon, 02 Apr 2007 12:26:17 -0000 "born4something" <ajs@...> writes: > Hi Ian, > > I'd be talking more to Uncle Rabid before looking to buy a new > board. He's the local oracle and repairs them for a living. He's > strangely generous with his advice around here given that he could > just play his cards close and boost his business. I think he > actually likes being helpful! If he can't talk you through he'll fix > > it for you for a pretty reasonable fee anyway. > > The other reason for running things past Uncle is that he deals with > > most (all?) the variants on these controllers. Most of us only > experience one or two of them. Some are FET based and others SCR. > Some use relays and others don't. Mine has no relays but those 5-pin > > blocks are sounding like 24V coil relays. Two for the coil and three > > for the changeover contact set. > > John > > > --- In 7x12minilathe@..., Ian Fletcher > <ian.fletcher@...> wrote: > > > > Hi John, thanks for the warning. I was unable to get a reading off > > the second resistor so have ordered two. Visually I cannot find any > > damage to the board or components apart from what looks like > mechanical damage to one of the two square yellow blocks marked > HR54H-S-DC24V which seem to have 5 legs, which I take to be voltage > > convertors? As you can see although capable of soldering and > unsoldering small components I am not always able to identify what > they are!! If I do need to bite the bullet and buy a new board are > they all the same from different manufacturers? I know Clarke lathes > > are more expensive that others and wondered if the circuit board > would be cheaper from other makers. Thanks Ian > > -----Original Message----- > > >From: born4something <ajs@...> > > >Date: Sun Apr 01 08:02:37 GMT 2007 > > >To: 7x12minilathe@... > > >Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: circuit board diagram > > > > > Hi Ian, > > Just a thought. Might not be what you want to hear. If only one > > > resistor is burnt out and they are in parallel as a 0.33 ohm for > > > > current sensing then the machine should run, but overload sense > > at > > > half load. So either BOTH resistors have failed or there is > > > something else failed too. > > > John > > > --- In 7x12minilathe@..., Ian Fletcher > > > <ian.fletcher@> wrote: > > > > > > > > Thanks for advice, resistors ordered at cost of ?,??1 so if > that is > > > all that is wrong I shall have saved ?,??84 !! Thanks for your > > > interest and support. Ian > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > > >From: born4something <ajs@> > > > > >Date: Fri Mar 30 08:07:03 GMT 2007 > > > > >To: 7x12minilathe@... > > > > >Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: circuit board diagram > > > > > > > > > Hi Ian, > > > > > 66 ohms sounds a bit high. You may have tricked people with > > that > > > > > space between the R and 66. Electronics types often use the > > > > prefix > > > > > as a decimal point (like 1k2 means 1.2k-ohms) and when there > > is > > > no > > > > > prefix they just insert the base symbol, R. So R66 is likely > > > > 0.66 > > > > > ohms. It's a convenient notation and avoids using those > little > > > dots > > > > > that don't print clearly and are often multiplied when > > > photocopying > > > > > stuff! > > > > > Check the other resistor. If it is 0.66 ohms I'd expect > quite a > > > > > reasonable reading in circuit without even unsoldering it as > > the > > > > > surrounding components are unlikely to be anywhere near as > low > > > as > > > > > that. If they are, it's likely a failed FET or triac, > depending > > > on > > > > > your model. > > > > > John > > > > > --- In 7x12minilathe@..., andrew franks > <andyf1108@> > > > > > wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > Looks as though it might be: 5W = 5 watts, R66 = 66 ohm. > Not > > > sure > > > > > about the J, though - could represent a tolerance (as in > plus or > > > > > minus a certain percentage from the marked resistance > value). > > > > > However, 66 ohms isn't a standard "preffered" value - 68 > ohms > > > is, > > > > > though. Can you unsolder its twin, if it has identical > markings, > > > and > > > > > check it? If it is 66 ohms, you may have to use a couple of > > 33 > > > ohm > > > > > ones, and connect them in series (though if you use 68 ohms, > > > > it's > > > > > probably close enough). > > > > > > As to wattage, if you can't get 5 watts from Maplin or > > > > > somewhere, get the next size up. > > > > > > I wonder what made it burn out, though? Hopefully, it > was > > > > > something simple like a short circuit caused by swarf. > > > > > > Andy > > > > > > ftr1d <ian.fletcher@> wrote: > > > > > > Hi, I have just purchased a 240 volt Clarke 300m > > > > with a > > > > > dead circuit > > > > > > board. A new board will cost ?,??85 so I am looking to > repair > > > it. The > > > > > only > > > > > > fault I can see is a blown ceramic block, one of a pair, > which > > > is > > > > > > marked 5WR 66J and is in R1 position on the board. I > assume it > > > is > > > > > a > > > > > > creamic resistor? Does anyone have a circuit diagram or > can > > > give > > > > > me the > > > > > > specification of the part. Thanks Ian > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > --------------------------------- > > > > > > New Yahoo! Mail is the ultimate force in competitive > > > emailing. > > > > > Find out more at the Yahoo! Mail Championships. Plus: play > games > > > and > > > > > win prizes. > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > Be sure to check out for small > mills and lathes. > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 269.2.0/757 - Release Date: 11/04/2007 17:14 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
|
Re: circuit board diagram
AnaLog Services, Inc.
Mike:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
You can do it just fine. I struggled thru it years ago with no ill effects. It is just a matter of keeping track of the changes you make, and making logical iterations till it is as good as is practicable. Syd ----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Taglieri To: 7x12minilathe@... Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2007 3:17 AM Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: circuit board diagram I'm beginning to think boosting Rabid's business isn't such a bad idea. Uncle Rabid, how much would you charge to take my controller, beef up all the crap circuit-board parts and tweak the pots for maximum safe torque and minimum safe speed, i.e, the way the Chinese would have done if they gave a shit? (And do you need just the controller box, or my motor also?) I'm normally an extremely do-it-yourself kind of guy, but the more I read here about adjusting your controller at home, the less sure I am of doing it right without frying something. I'd rather let someone do it who knows how and stick to the machining that I'm good at. Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@... Everyone has his reasons. - Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game" On Mon, 02 Apr 2007 12:26:17 -0000 "born4something" <ajs@...> writes: > Hi Ian, > > I'd be talking more to Uncle Rabid before looking to buy a new > board. He's the local oracle and repairs them for a living. He's > strangely generous with his advice around here given that he could > just play his cards close and boost his business. I think he > actually likes being helpful! If he can't talk you through he'll fix > > it for you for a pretty reasonable fee anyway. > > The other reason for running things past Uncle is that he deals with > > most (all?) the variants on these controllers. Most of us only > experience one or two of them. Some are FET based and others SCR. > Some use relays and others don't. Mine has no relays but those 5-pin > > blocks are sounding like 24V coil relays. Two for the coil and three > > for the changeover contact set. > > John > > > --- In 7x12minilathe@..., Ian Fletcher > <ian.fletcher@...> wrote: > > > > Hi John, thanks for the warning. I was unable to get a reading off > > the second resistor so have ordered two. Visually I cannot find any > > damage to the board or components apart from what looks like > mechanical damage to one of the two square yellow blocks marked > HR54H-S-DC24V which seem to have 5 legs, which I take to be voltage > > convertors? As you can see although capable of soldering and > unsoldering small components I am not always able to identify what > they are!! If I do need to bite the bullet and buy a new board are > they all the same from different manufacturers? I know Clarke lathes > > are more expensive that others and wondered if the circuit board > would be cheaper from other makers. Thanks Ian > > -----Original Message----- > > >From: born4something <ajs@...> > > >Date: Sun Apr 01 08:02:37 GMT 2007 > > >To: 7x12minilathe@... > > >Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: circuit board diagram > > > > > Hi Ian, > > Just a thought. Might not be what you want to hear. If only one > > > resistor is burnt out and they are in parallel as a 0.33 ohm for > > > > current sensing then the machine should run, but overload sense > > at > > > half load. So either BOTH resistors have failed or there is > > > something else failed too. > > > John > > > --- In 7x12minilathe@..., Ian Fletcher > > > <ian.fletcher@> wrote: > > > > > > > > Thanks for advice, resistors ordered at cost of ?,??1 so if > that is > > > all that is wrong I shall have saved ?,??84 !! Thanks for your > > > interest and support. Ian > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > > >From: born4something <ajs@> > > > > >Date: Fri Mar 30 08:07:03 GMT 2007 > > > > >To: 7x12minilathe@... > > > > >Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: circuit board diagram > > > > > > > > > Hi Ian, > > > > > 66 ohms sounds a bit high. You may have tricked people with > > that > > > > > space between the R and 66. Electronics types often use the > > > > prefix > > > > > as a decimal point (like 1k2 means 1.2k-ohms) and when there > > is > > > no > > > > > prefix they just insert the base symbol, R. So R66 is likely > > > > 0.66 > > > > > ohms. It's a convenient notation and avoids using those > little > > > dots > > > > > that don't print clearly and are often multiplied when > > > photocopying > > > > > stuff! > > > > > Check the other resistor. If it is 0.66 ohms I'd expect > quite a > > > > > reasonable reading in circuit without even unsoldering it as > > the > > > > > surrounding components are unlikely to be anywhere near as > low > > > as > > > > > that. If they are, it's likely a failed FET or triac, > depending > > > on > > > > > your model. > > > > > John > > > > > --- In 7x12minilathe@..., andrew franks > <andyf1108@> > > > > > wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > Looks as though it might be: 5W = 5 watts, R66 = 66 ohm. > Not > > > sure > > > > > about the J, though - could represent a tolerance (as in > plus or > > > > > minus a certain percentage from the marked resistance > value). > > > > > However, 66 ohms isn't a standard "preffered" value - 68 > ohms > > > is, > > > > > though. Can you unsolder its twin, if it has identical > markings, > > > and > > > > > check it? If it is 66 ohms, you may have to use a couple of > > 33 > > > ohm > > > > > ones, and connect them in series (though if you use 68 ohms, > > > > it's > > > > > probably close enough). > > > > > > As to wattage, if you can't get 5 watts from Maplin or > > > > > somewhere, get the next size up. > > > > > > I wonder what made it burn out, though? Hopefully, it > was > > > > > something simple like a short circuit caused by swarf. > > > > > > Andy > > > > > > ftr1d <ian.fletcher@> wrote: > > > > > > Hi, I have just purchased a 240 volt Clarke 300m > > > > with a > > > > > dead circuit > > > > > > board. A new board will cost ?,??85 so I am looking to > repair > > > it. The > > > > > only > > > > > > fault I can see is a blown ceramic block, one of a pair, > which > > > is > > > > > > marked 5WR 66J and is in R1 position on the board. I > assume it > > > is > > > > > a > > > > > > creamic resistor? Does anyone have a circuit diagram or > can > > > give > > > > > me the > > > > > > specification of the part. Thanks Ian > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > --------------------------------- > > > > > > New Yahoo! Mail is the ultimate force in competitive > > > emailing. > > > > > Find out more at the Yahoo! Mail Championships. Plus: play > games > > > and > > > > > win prizes. > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > Be sure to check out for small > mills and lathes. > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
|
Re: circuit board diagram
Michael Taglieri
I'm beginning to think boosting Rabid's business isn't such a bad idea.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Uncle Rabid, how much would you charge to take my controller, beef up all the crap circuit-board parts and tweak the pots for maximum safe torque and minimum safe speed, i.e, the way the Chinese would have done if they gave a shit? (And do you need just the controller box, or my motor also?) I'm normally an extremely do-it-yourself kind of guy, but the more I read here about adjusting your controller at home, the less sure I am of doing it right without frying something. I'd rather let someone do it who knows how and stick to the machining that I'm good at. Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@... Everyone has his reasons. - Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game" On Mon, 02 Apr 2007 12:26:17 -0000 "born4something" <ajs@...> writes: Hi Ian, |
|
Re: Control Board Ratings
G'day Ed.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
The control boards have a current limit adjustment which sets the maximum current which can be fed to the motor. I only have circuit details of the board in my lathe (As available off the board manufacturer's web site.) so I don't know how the current limit function is achieved on other boards. I just know it is there from articles about adjusting the minimum speed an earlier lathes. Current limiting is necessary to prevent overheating of the motors, inadvertent fuse blowing and demagnetisation of the field magnets. As I said the board on my lathe is good for 6 amps (12 amps with additional heatsink) so it is able to supply the motor without limitation. I am hoping Jim RabidWolfe can give some insight into what other types of board can do. Some of the boards do use pulse width modulation much as I imagine is used by the stepper motor drive circuit. I many ways this is a more modern technique than SCR phase control as used on my board. Your stepper motor pulses would have a comparatively high voltage and short duration to get the speed of response. One good turn deserves another. Regards, Ian
|
|
Re: Control Board Ratings
BTW I fitted the "correct" Horsepower resitor to my control boardIan - So what does this mean - the board automatically limits current to what it's set at? Is this similar to a 'chopper' circuit? The control board I built for my CNC router allows me to set the current for my stepper motors and run them at much higher voltages than they're rated for. Ed |
|
Flickr Groups
Mike Payson
I wanted to let everyone know about three Flickr groups I've created:
Flickr has a number of advantages over the Yahoo photo page since it has virtually unlimited storage & a very useful annotation feature (roll your mouse over the photo at to see what I mean). Photos can also be tagged so they can be searched. For example, searching for minimill and beltdrive would find the above photo and the others in the series. The groups are public, so anyone can browse the photos, but you must join the group to post photos to it. Not to mention, no more having to login to Yahoo just to look at a photo! Flickr is owned by Yahoo, the same username & password that you use to login to Yahoo groups will work for it as well. I encourage everyone to join whichever groups apply to you! |
|
Re: Deep Hole .218 x 8"
taurokm3
You are right, A gun barrel is hard to drill. I would love to be able
to buy a deep hole rig and the bits, but if I could afford that, I wouldn't need to ask questions. Not to mention, it would not fit in my upstairs spare bed-room turned machine shop. I am in the process of building a rifling machine, which will only ream and rifle. I am debating trying to build a tiny hook cutter, or to make a stepped rifling reamer. The reamer is a tad more complicated, but at this small size, probably a better choice than a tiny hook cutter. BTW are you a Lilja from the Lilja barrel folks? --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Pete Lilja" <plilja@...> wrote: specialized machinery is utilized. ideas as to how they're made:
hollow drill (not a twist bit by any means) that floods the cutting edge with lots of oil for lubrication, cooling and chip removal. making on the web site above. The barrel is rather critical in the performance of the gun. I wouldn't attempt one on a mini-lathe myself. lathe > chuck? Material dimensions and the material type would behelpful info. >with a > > home made drill, .175 x 11" shank with a .218 x 1" head, and Iwant to > > mill it to a flat on top and bottom, then sharpen it like a twisthave any > > other ideas? |
|
Re: knurling
CJ, go to Then click on Premium Content.
You'll have to pay $4.95 (I think) and there you will find an excellent education on the knurling. I paid for unlimited access to the Premium Content because it is a wonder source of both instrucitons and projects. Also, the free portion of that Web site provides about the best education on the mini-lathe there is anywhere. --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "cjwires" <cjwarchitects@...> wrote: point me to some basic info about how to use a knurling tool on the mini lathe? thanks, CJ |
|
Re: knurling
See the 7x12 Files section, FAQ which has a basic overview in the
section on Knurling. That may get you going, if not post back with specific questions. John --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "cjwires" <cjwarchitects@...> wrote: point me to some basic info about how to use a knurling tool on the mini lathe? thanks, CJ |
|
Free Shipping from Enco
I just got this email from Enco and thought I'd share it...
Ed Hi Metalworking Professional, Today through April 30th, get Free UPS Shipping* when you purchase $50 or more in merchandise from Enco. Take advantage of this exclusive offer by entering WBARN7 in the promo code box on the shopping cart page at use-enco.com, or mention the code when you call 800-USE-ENCO and speak to a friendly sales associate. Hurry, this offer expires Monday, April 30th, 2007, so act today! |
|
Control Board Ratings
G'day Jim, et al
Jim I look to your comments on the current capacities of the various control boards used in the 7x lathes. I am posting on the group because the outcome of the discussion effects others on the group. For my lathe this is not a concern, the KB Electronics board fitted has capacity for motors up to 1.0HP or can supply 9 amps. KB advised me that my 400W (180Volt) motor with full load current of 2.2 amps can have a current limit setting of 3.5 amps HOWEVER, other control boards may not be so generaously rated and some recent correspondence implies that the boards are limiting the available current to the motors. In that the motors have an overcurrent capacity of up to 2 times the full load current it seems unlikely to me that the SCRs on FETs would be so minimally rated that more than full load current can be supplied. (Making gibes about "Chinese Horse Power" is not helpful). BTW I fitted the "correct" Horsepower resitor to my control board last night and now have adjusted it for 3.5 amps stall current. When the stall load is applied the current rises to 4.5 amps then immediately swings back to 3.5 amps. One good turn deserves another. Regards, Ian |
|
Re: Database of past messages
G'day Patrice, et al.
I have just looked ate the "Data Base" web site; it contains excellent material. Thanks for letting it be known. One good turn deserves another. Regards, Ian --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "borenson444" <strempe4@...> wrote:
|
|
Re: Database of past messages
Thanks all for the replies. I am glad to know that this could help.
Ian, the database (loose use of the term) is located on my personal website for ease of use. Here is the addy: It is HTML based for ease of use and downloading (Yahoo is great but sadly a little lacking in this department ;-). I'll wait for the ok from the owner of this group. Thanks again Patrice |
|
Re: Deep Hole .218 x 8"
The best description I've seen for accurately drilling a deep hole was
posted by Peter S in the following thread: In case that link doesn't work, go here: And search for: Drilling a Long Straight Hole The post by PeterS on page 2 of the thread has the info. If you can't find it write to me via email and I'll send it. This approach will need to be adapted for the smaller hole you're drilling but this should be possible. I believe you could make and use D bits rather than purchase special reamers, a cost vs time tradeoff. John --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "taurokm3" <grimjack@...> wrote: info. want to lube.mill it to a flat on top and bottom, then sharpen it like a twist have anyBTW, I am using oil hardening drill rod for the bit. Any one other ideas? |
GadgetBuilder
to navigate to use esc to dismiss