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Are you drilling this hole into material that can be held in the lathe
chuck? Material dimensions and the material type would be helpful info.

The technique is straight forward (but tedious) if the material fits
in the chuck. Best situation is if the material fits through the
spindle, of course.

John

Hi John,
It would probably cause a bit of a furore at airport security, too.
Anyway, I've got a Warco-badged Wiess lathe, which according to the Warco specs has a 0.75" spindle bore. Out of curiosity, I have just measured it - 20.8mm, which is 13/16" plus a whisker.
Back now to making a crude leadscrew reverse for it. I've been taking a break from hand-hacksawing cuts of about 300mm total length in 12mm steel plate, to make a swinging arm to bring an extra gearwheel into play when needed. Only another 30mm to go, now. I know what I shall be giving myself for my 60th later this month!
Andy

born4something <ajs@...> wrote:
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., andrew franks <andyf1108@...>
wrote:

I doubt if the official Guardian of the Reamers would let one of

them travel to the UK all on its own!

Hi Andy,

I guess that rules out a trip to Oz? Well, it's not been on my must-do
list. But if I can't have it, suddenly I want it!

John






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G'day Tony & Ed.

"Does it matter if the meter is on the + or - side?"
My preference is for the meter to go in the + side of the circuit so
as not to risk bypassing the current limit resistor (Horse Power
Resistor on my card) if you connect back to the wrong terminal.

NOTE: BOTH + & - CONNECTIONS ARE LIVE WITH RESPECT TO GROUND AND THE
LATHE FRAME. Treat the meter its wiring and connections as LIVE and
effectively at mains potential.

Regarding digital meters, not DVMs, I would be careful regarding the
effect of the current wave form. The lower cost units will only
measure the peak current each sampling cycle. The peak will be more
than either the average or the RMS current so the reading could be
high and so be meaningless. A digital meter needs a power supply
while an analogue meter does not.

If you connect the analogue meter the wrong polarity you will simply
reverse the needle against the stop, no harm will be done but you
will have to reverse the connections.

Hope this helps.

One good turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., andrew franks <andyf1108@...>
wrote:

I doubt if the official Guardian of the Reamers would let one of

them travel to the UK all on its own!


Hi Andy,

I guess that rules out a trip to Oz? Well, it's not been on my must-do
list. But if I can't have it, suddenly I want it!

John

Yes, that's got to be right, Roy. I was just thinking aloud. Enlarging the calibre of my spindle isn't on my project list, though if it was, I doubt if the official Guardian of the Reamers would let one of them travel to the UK all on its own!
Andy

roylowenthal <roylowenthal@...> wrote:
You'd actually be better off with a suitably large conventional
boring bar. A regular boring bar will ensure that the spindle bore
is concentric with the axis of rotation. As a generality, the
carriage is preferable to the TS for accurate, controllable tool
holding.

The virtue of the reamer is that it's quick & available for the cost
of postage! Since the bore can be reamed, it's not a big enough cut
to justify (to me) the nuisance of setting up a boring bar. Then
again, I did mine a few years ago, when the community was smaller.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "andyf1108" <andyf1108@...>
wrote:

I wonder if it would it be possible to make up a boring bar, with a
short front section "A" of a diameter which is a sliding fit

inside

the spindle, then a length "B" of smaller diameter carrying the
tool bit, and then a short section "C" which is a sliding fit at
the "opened out" diameter which the bit will cut. With the spindle
turning, push this boring bar through it with the tailstock centre
(some sort of dog would be needed to stop the bar rotating, and the
cut would have to be in stages, to allow the tailstock to be moved
between stages) Section A would centre the bar in the spindle at
the beginning of the cut, and B would be of such a length that, by
the time A emerged from the spindle, section C would have entered
the bore and take over the centring job.

Or would this, too, tend to self-feed and pull the bar away from

the

tailstock centre?
Cheaper than a reamer, though, and a big drill would need a big
chuck, unless it had a Morse taper shank to fit the tailstock.

Andy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal"
<roylowenthal@> wrote:

From experience, it's still a problem. With a TS mounted drill,

it'll

still try to self feed, either jamming the machine or popping the

chuck

out of the TS taper. With a carriage mounted drill, it'll still

try to

pull itself in. The reamer did a nice job, with no drama:-)

Roy

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Thanks for that Andrew,

It's not the one I used years back which went milky-white with
water. The EP690 apparently goes translucent blue. Is that your
recollection? But if it works and is available...

Blackwoods list it in 4 and 20 litre containers.

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Andrew MacIntyre"
<andymac_org@...> wrote:

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@>

wrote:

Some time back there was discussion of soluble oil and its
availability in Oz. Must have been steam4ian asking. I just got

back

to looking and found some info at www.azom.com/details.asp?
ArticleID=2240. Down the bottom of that page are a number of

mineral

oil cutting fluids. All but the last three show up in a search

at

Blackwoods. I'm not familiar with the product names and

Blackwoods'

web site isn't abundantly full of it. But is that useful?

Going to the Castrol site and looking through the descriptions, I

think

that Clearedge EP690 is the brew I encountered at the TAFE college.

Cheers,
Andrew.

Thanks, Ian, for the explanation. I get a catalog from
allectronics.com. They have AC and DC meters in various
ranges for $12 each. I pulled my electronics and it looks
like it'd be easy to add a meter to the DC side, especially
if I can connect it between the direction switch and the
motor. Does it matter if the meter is on the
+ or - side?

The meter can go anywhere in the circuit, if you hook the + - up backwards,
you'll just get a negative reading.

If someone is planning on using digital meters, check the specs. Most of
them don't like you using the 10A range for too long, usually under 10
seconds. They're not designed to be left in permanently.

YMMV, of course. They may be happy with a couple of amps indefinitely, but
become a blob of yellow plastic on 10 amps.

Same deal for the analog ones too, the shunt can get a bit warm, but they
tend to be designed for it.

Tony

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@...> wrote:

Some time back there was discussion of soluble oil and its
availability in Oz. Must have been steam4ian asking. I just got back
to looking and found some info at www.azom.com/details.asp?
ArticleID=2240. Down the bottom of that page are a number of mineral
oil cutting fluids. All but the last three show up in a search at
Blackwoods. I'm not familiar with the product names and Blackwoods'
web site isn't abundantly full of it. But is that useful?

Going to the Castrol site and looking through the descriptions, I think
that Clearedge EP690 is the brew I encountered at the TAFE college.

Cheers,
Andrew.

Any one have any thoughts on the best way to go about a deep hole
without buying a deep hole rig? I am currently experimenting with a
home made drill, .175 x 11" shank with a .218 x 1" head, and I want to
mill it to a flat on top and bottom, then sharpen it like a twist
drill. I know it will need cleared frequently, and a lot of lube.
BTW, I am using oil hardening drill rod for the bit. Any one have any
other ideas?

Guys:

HF Micro Mill motor, 1.8 amps 110 volts or 198 watts. Board is a 150 watt board current limit 1.4 amps, 76%
Motor is billed as a 1/5th hp motor, 150 watts, that fits for full load current. Real output about advertised

HF Mini Lathe motor 3.0 amps 110 volts 330 watts, 250 watt board, current limit 2.27 amps 76%
Motor is billed as a 3/4 hp motor, 559 watts....yea? But not stalled or unregulated either, maybe ;( Real output closer to 1/3 hp. 559 watts at 110 volts would be about 5 amps (fuse) rating.

Wilton Mini Wood Lathe motor, 2.3 amps 120 volts or 276 watts or about 3/8 hp, board unmarked but billed as a 2/5 hp motor or 298 watts, pretty close to theoretical input. As the other two motor/controller set ups seem to follow a rough 76% out put to input rule, sort of, kind of maybe...This motor is likely closer to 210 watts or about .281 hp. Advertised out put seems just a shade short of theoretical.

Seems to be more ways to power factor a motor than there are manufactures (sales people). You should see the ratings some robot motor manufactures put out. Continuous power, power for 2 hours, 6 minutes, 30 seconds, momentary, stalled and on and on.

Anybody got a scope and a motor dyno? ;-)

Chris bills the F350 board as an "upgrade" to the small lathe motor which intuit suggest a 3.2 amp current limit as "extra capacity". Seems more in line with the motor name plate current anyway.

Now I know why some fit tread mill motors to these things. If you can't get the truth then just Tim Allen the thing :)

Marty

Thanks again, Ian. The motor is labeled DC120V, 3A, 400W. The wiring
should be simple. The manual shows the #2 wire as + DC Out and it's a
screw terminal. I'll order a meter (and a few other parts that have
been on my list) and let you know later in the week how it goes.
Ed

You'd actually be better off with a suitably large conventional
boring bar. A regular boring bar will ensure that the spindle bore
is concentric with the axis of rotation. As a generality, the
carriage is preferable to the TS for accurate, controllable tool
holding.

The virtue of the reamer is that it's quick & available for the cost
of postage! Since the bore can be reamed, it's not a big enough cut
to justify (to me) the nuisance of setting up a boring bar. Then
again, I did mine a few years ago, when the community was smaller.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "andyf1108" <andyf1108@...>
wrote:

I wonder if it would it be possible to make up a boring bar, with a
short front section "A" of a diameter which is a sliding fit

inside

the spindle, then a length "B" of smaller diameter carrying the
tool bit, and then a short section "C" which is a sliding fit at
the "opened out" diameter which the bit will cut. With the spindle
turning, push this boring bar through it with the tailstock centre
(some sort of dog would be needed to stop the bar rotating, and the
cut would have to be in stages, to allow the tailstock to be moved
between stages) Section A would centre the bar in the spindle at
the beginning of the cut, and B would be of such a length that, by
the time A emerged from the spindle, section C would have entered
the bore and take over the centring job.

Or would this, too, tend to self-feed and pull the bar away from

the

tailstock centre?
Cheaper than a reamer, though, and a big drill would need a big
chuck, unless it had a Morse taper shank to fit the tailstock.

Andy

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal"
<roylowenthal@> wrote:

From experience, it's still a problem. With a TS mounted drill,

it'll

still try to self feed, either jamming the machine or popping the

chuck

out of the TS taper. With a carriage mounted drill, it'll still

try to

pull itself in. The reamer did a nice job, with no drama:-)

Roy

In addition to setting the compound gib screws tight, position it so
it's full supported, use the cross slide to advance the tool. If you
change to a "T" shaped parting tool, you'll get better results;
they're markedly better than the other shapes. They also benefit
from a little honing after grinding. If it's a really thin walled
piece, you may have to cheat - mark the cut with the parting tool,
take it out of the lathe & finish the cut with an abrasive wheel.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "NESTOR MONLLOR"
<amaliomonllor@...> wrote:

Good morning guys,
I'm a little lost here.
When I'm parting off a piece and I move the crosslide into the

work, the cutter rides, I guess, downward then "pops" up. The bottom
of the crosslide doesn't seem to be moving, but either the compound
or the tool post does move. I checked and the toolpost seems to be
tight to the compound. Which leads me to believe the compound is
loose. Where do ZI tighten this?

It turned into a major problem because I was making a ferrule for a

fly rod and the piece got all bent to heck and is now completely
unusable.

Thank you,
Ren

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

G'day Ed.

UNPLUG THE LATHE FROM THE POWER BEFORE WORKING ON THE CONTROL BOX!

Putting the meter between the reversing switch and the motor means
the current reverses and the meter needle will be against the stop
when reversing, that's why I connected it between the board and the
switch. Believe me, I'm not into hard work, just outcomes.

Regarding the motor: Take the cover off (three screws at the back oh
the lathe and look at the nameplate details. It will say 90V and then
give a wattage eg 400W. This is the power of the lathe.
The power figure (400W) divided by the voltage (90V) gives you the
current at full load (flc). There are some losses, typically 10% for
a motor of this size but they can be ignored for this exercise.

Selecting a meter that can read to at least twice the flc, but not
much more, will place the full load current at 40-50% of scale for a
dc meter. This quite useable resolution. AC meters have a non linear
scale at the low end and are even more critcal to get the right range.

I used insulated male and female spade connector crimped to the wire
such that the meter can be taken out of circuit and the normal
connection rstored by connecting the respective spades. make sure you
tape over the connections afterwards with a good quality electrical
tape.

The wire connects from the + terminal of the board to the centre
terminal on the switch. I chose th cut the wire and put in the
connectors but I could have just pulled the spade connector off the +
terminal and with M & F terminals on the meter leads connected
straight in. If your board has screw terminals it is even easier, you
just need a floating screw connector (Blue Point or other)

WHAT EVER YOU DO, UNPLUG THE LATHE FROM THE POWER BEFORE WORKING ON
THE CONTROL BOX!
UNPLUG THE LATHE FROM THE POWER BEFORE WORKING ON THE CONTROL BOX!
UNPLUG THE LATHE FROM THE POWER BEFORE WORKING ON THE CONTROL BOX!
UNPLUG THE LATHE FROM THE POWER BEFORE WORKING ON THE CONTROL BOX!

One good turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Ed" <edo@...> wrote:

Thanks, Ian, for the explanation. I get a catalog from
allectronics.com. They have AC and DC meters in various ranges for

$12

each. I pulled my electronics and it looks like it'd be easy to add

a

meter to the DC side, especially if I can connect it between the
direction switch and the motor. Does it matter if the meter is on

the

+ or - side?
If I have to put it between the board and the switch, it'll be more
difficult, but there's a wiring diagram in the manual that should

help

me figure out what wire to use.

I'm still a little confused on the amperage rating. Is the 400W for
the lathe or the motor? The way I see it, if an appliance, i.e., the
lathe is rated at 400W, then it'll only draw 3.3A regardless of what
DC voltage is used. (And at 150% of that, a 5A meter would be OK.)
That would mean that the motor in a '400W' lathe running at 90VDC
would be rated at 300Watts (if we ignore the power used by the
electronics.) Feel free to point out the flaws in my logic. I'm

just

thinking the resolution of a 5A meter would be much better than a

10A.

Ed

Thanks, Ian, for the explanation. I get a catalog from
allectronics.com. They have AC and DC meters in various ranges for $12
each. I pulled my electronics and it looks like it'd be easy to add a
meter to the DC side, especially if I can connect it between the
direction switch and the motor. Does it matter if the meter is on the
+ or - side?
If I have to put it between the board and the switch, it'll be more
difficult, but there's a wiring diagram in the manual that should help
me figure out what wire to use.

I'm still a little confused on the amperage rating. Is the 400W for
the lathe or the motor? The way I see it, if an appliance, i.e., the
lathe is rated at 400W, then it'll only draw 3.3A regardless of what
DC voltage is used. (And at 150% of that, a 5A meter would be OK.)
That would mean that the motor in a '400W' lathe running at 90VDC
would be rated at 300Watts (if we ignore the power used by the
electronics.) Feel free to point out the flaws in my logic. I'm just
thinking the resolution of a 5A meter would be much better than a 10A.

Ed

G'day Keith

"Did I leap before I looked when buying this brand???"
From the other side of the world I'd say it depends on the colour!

One good turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John doe" <mrbigcox2000@...>
wrote:

Hi, just wanted to tell all how much I love this place....The info

I

have gotten from you guys is great....What I am looking for is a
Rotating Tailstock Chuck for my Cummins 5278 mini lathe....I just
bought the lathe about a month ago and getting info or help with it
seems to be the task of the day....Even the folks that sell this

lathe

are not the most helpful in the world....Did I leap before I looked
when buying this brand??? Thanks again, Have a great holiday!!!
Keith

G'day Ren.
I have looked at other's posts and what they say is true but may not
have answered your problem. I read that you are seeing flexing of the
compound and tool post structure. Having the gibs for the cross slide
and compound firm is critical. Obviously you need to be able to move
the cross slide so you can't lock up the gibs for that but you can
make sure they are firm. For the compound you can set you tool at the
right position and then tighten the gib screws so the compound
doesn't move.

I am assuming you have a saddle lock. If not you must stop the lead
screw (gear in neutral) and engage the half nuts. This works if you
use the carriage hand wheel to force the carrage back against the
nuts taking out the slack.

Make sure the tool has sufficient clearance and mount it a bee's
whisker high so that flexing brings it to the right level.

A FORGoTTEN FACTOR is flexing of the work piece. A fly rod ferule
will be very thin and can deform under the tool load; you may be
better off parting some other way or designing a thickened section
with more strength to part through. I have to do this job myself
sometime. My son borrowed one of my rods and jammed it in his car
door so I need to make a new ferule; I have thought about it.
Planning is half the job.

One good turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "NESTOR MONLLOR"
<amaliomonllor@...> wrote:

Good morning guys,
I'm a little lost here.
When I'm parting off a piece and I move the crosslide into the

work, the cutter rides, I guess, downward then "pops" up. The bottom
of the crosslide doesn't seem to be moving, but either the compound
or the tool post does move. I checked and the toolpost seems to be
tight to the compound. Which leads me to believe the compound is
loose. Where do ZI tighten this?

It turned into a major problem because I was making a ferrule for a

fly rod and the piece got all bent to heck and is now completely
unusable.

Thank you,
Ren

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

John,

Still in the trade with 30+ years and counting, high end diamond custom
to fashion on the resume. I was presented with the possibility of self
employment 7 years ago when my last employer sold the company (but not me
;-) I had been doing some simple cad cam milling for models and decided to
try what I then referred to as 'self unemployment'. Rough road, as all
start ups are but it's paid off. Some older work on the site in my sig.
Current work is usually for licensed products and I can't release... bad
enough having to deal with the client, now I have to satisfy the licensing
companies legal beagles. Can't ever get away from the commercial concerns
but at least I only answer to myself now.

Jeff

-
Demand Designs
Analog/Digital Modelling & Goldsmithing


jdemand@...
-

* REPLY SEPARATOR *

On 4/8/2007 at 6:49 PM John doe wrote:

I just wanted to say thanks for all the fast knowledgeable, responses
and all the info that this group has supplied me.... They say the
Internet is an endless highway of info.... The key word is
endless...Always seeking and never finding.... But then I found you
guys and can now exit the highway and relax with a cup of Joe....

Does anyone ever showcase what they do?....
Hobbyist???...Artist???...Machinist???.... Or maybe all of the
above???.....

I myself have a family (now retired) that was in the gem and jewelry
biz for over 35 years.....Never sold anyone else's works, total
custom...I always wanted the uniquely different so that's where the
carving came in....TOI (Tools Of Impalement...knives) was the road I
traveled for awhile along side body jewelry.... Cut and carved with
blood, sweat, and tears.... To keep up with more modern ways, and a
son (quality time, big bonus) that fell in love with the lathe at
school, hence the cummins lathe...Not to mention that these hands are
old and don't work as well anymore.... LOL.... Now I am able to go on
with what I love with more definition and sharper lines....Sorry for
all of the babbling, just wanted to say thank you!!!!




Be sure to check out for small mills and
lathes.
Yahoo! Groups Links





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10:57 PM

Are you using a QCTP? If so, be sure it's locked down tight. If not, the tools will flex slightly, and they tend to flex down, in reaction to the turning workpiece.

G'day Ed.

I respect your wish to "stay away" from the motor wiring" but is no
bigger issue than wiring into the ac side.
I used a dc meter because that was available directly from an
electronics retailer. I know ac instruments are available through the
electrical trade houses, I specify then in switchboards.
The manual for my control board expects that a dc meter will be used
when setting up the drive but allows for using an ac meter by giving a
compensation factor. If the meter is connected in the ac circuit the
manual says set the ac current a 75% of motor flc, whereas for dc it is
set to 150%. (As an experienced electrical engineer I am am uncertain
of what their wording means, is the ac to dc meter conversion factor
0.75 or .5? Its too early in the morning to dig out my text books)).

You may have noted from the above that the motor stall current is set
150% of full load current. The stall current can be up to 2 times but
this must not be exceeded. KB electronics advised me that a 1.7 factor
should be used. I have a 180V 400W motor with a full load current of
2.2 amps, my stall current setting will be 3.5 amps; thus I need a 0-5
amp meter.
If you motor is 90 volts you will need a 0-10 amp meter. For 120Vac
your motor will be a 90V unit with flc of 4.4 amps and could have a
stall current of 7 amps. You conrol board may not be able to deliver
this current. Jim Rabid may be able to advise you of what your board
can do.

As for fuse blowing, this should NEVER happen if the right size fuse is
installed AND the motor is not left on stall; when it stalls you switch
it off!
Please note that fusss are a thermal device. They do not trip the
instant the current through them exceeds their rating, this is a common
misconception. The heating energy which melts the element is
proportional to the square of the current multiplied by the time,
higher currents require less time to melt the element. At the rated
current the heating energy matches the heat the element can discipate
to its surroundings so it never gets hot enough to melt. In their
overload range circuit breakers have similar characteristics.

Hope this helps

One good gturn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian