开云体育

You could always post to www.tinypic.com and point to it from a post
here.

Rance

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@...>
wrote:

Hi Ian,

Can't spot it. On the 7x10 group under photos?

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Ian Foster" <fosterscons@>
wrote:

G'day all.
My wife has a Granny's brag book and now so do I. My grandson is

in

one of the pictures.
I have posted some photos which may arouse some interest on the

7x10

Photos group. Title not is complete without my usual dyslexic

typing.

What does DNA stand for??











One good turn deservews another
Regards
Ian

National Dyslexic Association.

To find moderators, go too the group home page, click members. once
there, look towards the top, you should see a link that says moderators,
click it, then you will see the moderators listed.

John is correct in all he said in this post
Clint

Hi John,

Oops, pardon my ignorance. Intermittent brain connector wiring.
Clint was the only mod that came to mind as I typed although I did
know you could help too. Maybe I should re-read the Terms of Use.
After you join a few related groups the names all merge together! No
offense meant about being mysterious - just a mystery to me!

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <John@...> wrote:

I really don't understand this mystery moderator comment...

Marty lists me as a moderator of the 7x12 group on the first page

of

his site -- and I listed his site in the 7x12 Links some time

back.

So, that isn't much of a mystery. And Clint identifies himself
periodically as a moderator too, so that isn't hidden either. The
replicating posts ordeal also provided obvious clues to finding
moderators. Both Clint and I post pictures for people as

evidenced by

looking at the recently posted pictures - another easy way to find
moderators.

Further, the 7x12 Terms-of-use file in the 7x12 files section,

which

provides info on how this group operates suggests a way to find the
moderators. I guess we need to add info on the home page pointing

to

the Terms-of-Use, it used to be published at the beginning of each
month but that disappeared a while back.

In some groups, clicking on the Members menu item allows accessing

a

list of moderators - I don't know whether that works here because
Yahoo provides a slightly different menu to moderators so I can't
check. Perhaps someone could comment on that?

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@>

wrote:

Hi Marty,

Now isn't that a good question? They are a mysterious bunch who
don't advertise much!

I noticed a post a few hours back from Clint who identified

himself

as a moderator here. You could also contact the list owner on

the

principle of going for the boss or if we just bounce messages

like

this around, one of them will pop his head up for sure!

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Marty N" <martyn@> wrote:

John:

Would I send the photo to the list owner? List moderator? of

whom

they are?

Marty

----- Original Message -----
From: born4something
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2007 2:28 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Ammeter/Parting


Hi Marty,

You WILL be posting some nice close-up picks of that parting

tool

and especially the business end, won't you?

John

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Marty N" <martyn@>

wrote:

>
>
> G'day Jim
>
> <snip>
> I am hoping the meter will be useful when parting off as I
frequently
> stall the lathe, even with a 1/16 blade. That is why I

wanted

it

at a
> place where I can see it when operating the cross slide.

It

certainly
> confirmed I need to change out the horse power resistor; I

got

short
> changed.
>
> Regards
> Ian
>
> Ian and All:
>
> Late last fall I bought a SB 10L that had a large box of

tooling,

fixtures
> etc. Last night I was rummaging the larger box for the

face

plate

and ran
> across a shoe box sized container of boring and parting

tooling.

Most of
> this looks to have never been used. On one of the boring

bars

was

engraved
> "Green 1924". I assume the person or shop that purchased

the

tooling and
> date. Much of it is "micro" sized and appears to all be of

the

same
> manufacture which I have yet to ascertain, but maybe not

all

the

same time
> period (packaging). One of the tools I can only imagine is

a

parting tool
> and thus the snip from Ian's post.
>
> This tool doesn't even look like a tool but like a piece

of

fine

jewelry!
> I've never seen anything like it. All surfaces are as if

you

are

looking
> into a mirror they are that highly polished but it is the

geometry

of the
> tool that is most intriguing. It is multi faceted like a

gem

stone. "T" form
> parting blades or those ground from tool steel

blanks "Plow"

to

the center
> of the work with a bit of top and side relief curling the

chip

straight back
> over the blade. This tool splits the chip or "curl" and

directs it

by a
> complex set of angles away from a sinlge point of contact.

Think

of a "V"
> form snow blade. The address must be critical as the

matching

holder and the
> operator end of the tool only permit mounting to a "fixed"

address

it seems.
>
> Point of this was that as I looked at this tool, and after

the

amazement of
> the find disapated a bit, was that this shape would use

very

little power to
> do a great deal of cutting. It would also apear this tool

is

designed to
> part and face both faces of the parted stock in one

operation!

>
> Anyway, I has me thinking that shape and address has more

to

do

with power
> requirement than just the brute force of plunging a square

faced

tool into
> the stock. Now I wish I wouldn't have opened the package :(
>
> Marty
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Marty
Yes, send them to me or any other mod
Clint


Marty N wrote:

Ian and all, send any photos to me are any other mod,
please let me know a name for the folder you want and if you want any
name on the photos
driggars@...
Clint


Ian Foster wrote:

I really don't understand this mystery moderator comment...

Marty lists me as a moderator of the 7x12 group on the first page of
his site -- and I listed his site in the 7x12 Links some time back.
So, that isn't much of a mystery. And Clint identifies himself
periodically as a moderator too, so that isn't hidden either. The
replicating posts ordeal also provided obvious clues to finding
moderators. Both Clint and I post pictures for people as evidenced by
looking at the recently posted pictures - another easy way to find
moderators.

Further, the 7x12 Terms-of-use file in the 7x12 files section, which
provides info on how this group operates suggests a way to find the
moderators. I guess we need to add info on the home page pointing to
the Terms-of-Use, it used to be published at the beginning of each
month but that disappeared a while back.

In some groups, clicking on the Members menu item allows accessing a
list of moderators - I don't know whether that works here because
Yahoo provides a slightly different menu to moderators so I can't
check. Perhaps someone could comment on that?

John

Hi Marty,

Now isn't that a good question? They are a mysterious bunch who
don't advertise much!

I noticed a post a few hours back from Clint who identified himself
as a moderator here. You could also contact the list owner on the
principle of going for the boss or if we just bounce messages like
this around, one of them will pop his head up for sure!

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Marty N" <martyn@...> wrote:

John:

Would I send the photo to the list owner? List moderator? of whom

they are?

Marty

----- Original Message -----
From: born4something
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2007 2:28 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Ammeter/Parting


Hi Marty,

You WILL be posting some nice close-up picks of that parting

tool

and especially the business end, won't you?

John

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Marty N" <martyn@> wrote:
>
>
> G'day Jim
>
> <snip>
> I am hoping the meter will be useful when parting off as I
frequently
> stall the lathe, even with a 1/16 blade. That is why I wanted

it

at a
> place where I can see it when operating the cross slide. It
certainly
> confirmed I need to change out the horse power resistor; I got
short
> changed.
>
> Regards
> Ian
>
> Ian and All:
>
> Late last fall I bought a SB 10L that had a large box of

tooling,

fixtures
> etc. Last night I was rummaging the larger box for the face

plate

and ran
> across a shoe box sized container of boring and parting

tooling.

Most of
> this looks to have never been used. On one of the boring bars

was

engraved
> "Green 1924". I assume the person or shop that purchased the
tooling and
> date. Much of it is "micro" sized and appears to all be of the
same
> manufacture which I have yet to ascertain, but maybe not all

the

same time
> period (packaging). One of the tools I can only imagine is a
parting tool
> and thus the snip from Ian's post.
>
> This tool doesn't even look like a tool but like a piece of

fine

jewelry!
> I've never seen anything like it. All surfaces are as if you

are

looking
> into a mirror they are that highly polished but it is the

geometry

of the
> tool that is most intriguing. It is multi faceted like a gem
stone. "T" form
> parting blades or those ground from tool steel blanks "Plow"

to

the center
> of the work with a bit of top and side relief curling the chip
straight back
> over the blade. This tool splits the chip or "curl" and

directs it

by a
> complex set of angles away from a sinlge point of contact.

Think

of a "V"
> form snow blade. The address must be critical as the matching
holder and the
> operator end of the tool only permit mounting to a "fixed"

address

it seems.
>
> Point of this was that as I looked at this tool, and after the
amazement of
> the find disapated a bit, was that this shape would use very
little power to
> do a great deal of cutting. It would also apear this tool is
designed to
> part and face both faces of the parted stock in one operation!
>
> Anyway, I has me thinking that shape and address has more to

do

with power
> requirement than just the brute force of plunging a square

faced

tool into
> the stock. Now I wish I wouldn't have opened the package :(
>
> Marty
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

G'day Marty.

Until the moderators come out of the cupboard I have posted my
pictures on 7x10 minlathe-photos.

One good turn deserves another.
Regards
Ian
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Marty N" <martyn@...> wrote:

John:

Would I send the photo to the list owner? List moderator? of whom

they are?

Marty

----- Original Message -----
From: born4something
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2007 2:28 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Ammeter/Parting


Hi Marty,

You WILL be posting some nice close-up picks of that parting tool
and especially the business end, won't you?

John

John:

Would I send the photo to the list owner? List moderator? of whom they are?

Marty

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Ian Foster" <fosterscons@...>
wrote:

I'm wondering if we shouldn't continue this discussion off group.
Somebody will probably say Yes!

They'd be rude - and we don't encourage that kind 'round here. <G>

Catch you offline,
John

Ah, thanks Ian.

Yep, a brag book, complete with fair headed grandkid. That engine
looks nice & compact.

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Ian Foster" <fosterscons@...>
wrote:

G'day John.

Try 7x10 minilathe-photos. Enjoy

One good turn deserves another.

regards
Ian

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@>
wrote:

Hi Ian,

Can't spot it. On the 7x10 group under photos?

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Ian Foster"

<fosterscons@>

wrote:

G'day all.
My wife has a Granny's brag book and now so do I. My grandson

is

in

one of the pictures.
I have posted some photos which may arouse some interest on

the

7x10

Photos group. Title not is complete without my usual dyslexic

typing.

What does DNA stand for??











One good turn deservews another
Regards
Ian

National Dyslexic Association.

G'day John.
I'm wondering if we shouldn't continue this discussion off group.
Somebody will probably say Yes!
Don't under estimate the effect of armature inductance and also the
effect of the free-wheel diode. Both of these features will 'soften"
the current waveform wrt the classic voltage wave form. Because they
work at higher frequencies PWM drives will be better in this respect.
An average reading meter will give a reasonable approximation. In
fact it is the average current which provides the torque; you need
RMS amps to measure power.
A quality true RMS sensing DVM will read correctly withing the range
provisos you mentioned. A cheap and nasty DVM will read the peak,
what ever that is, and undertake an interpolation to present what it
calls an RMS reading; it is not, who knows what it is!

Regarding fuse melting I agree true RMS is required because heating
of the element is proportional to the square of the current.

From experience I have found that moving coil meters are quite
satisfactory for measuring armature current in motors supplied from
phase controlled rectifiers. I have never seen moving iron instrument
used on modern DC drive equipment.

BTW, this afternoon I fitted a 50div dial to the compound feed screw.
Now I have to remember that is is no longer calibratred in Thou.

In the words of Peter Cundall (ABC TV Gardening Programme) "You Know
what comes next......"
One good turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian

G'day John.

Try 7x10 minilathe-photos. Enjoy

One good turn deserves another.

regards
Ian

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@...>
wrote:

Hi Ian,

Can't spot it. On the 7x10 group under photos?

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Ian Foster" <fosterscons@>
wrote:

G'day all.
My wife has a Granny's brag book and now so do I. My grandson is

in

one of the pictures.
I have posted some photos which may arouse some interest on the

7x10

Photos group. Title not is complete without my usual dyslexic

typing.

What does DNA stand for??











One good turn deservews another
Regards
Ian

National Dyslexic Association.

Hi Ian,

Can't spot it. On the 7x10 group under photos?

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Ian Foster" <fosterscons@...>
wrote:

G'day all.
My wife has a Granny's brag book and now so do I. My grandson is

in

one of the pictures.
I have posted some photos which may arouse some interest on the

7x10

Photos group. Title not is complete without my usual dyslexic

typing.

What does DNA stand for??











One good turn deservews another
Regards
Ian

National Dyslexic Association.

Hi Marty,

You WILL be posting some nice close-up picks of that parting tool
and especially the business end, won't you?

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Marty N" <martyn@...> wrote:

G'day Jim

<snip>
I am hoping the meter will be useful when parting off as I

frequently

stall the lathe, even with a 1/16 blade. That is why I wanted it

at a

place where I can see it when operating the cross slide. It

certainly

confirmed I need to change out the horse power resistor; I got

short

changed.

Regards
Ian

Ian and All:

Late last fall I bought a SB 10L that had a large box of tooling,

fixtures

etc. Last night I was rummaging the larger box for the face plate

and ran

across a shoe box sized container of boring and parting tooling.

Most of

this looks to have never been used. On one of the boring bars was

engraved

"Green 1924". I assume the person or shop that purchased the

tooling and

date. Much of it is "micro" sized and appears to all be of the

same

manufacture which I have yet to ascertain, but maybe not all the

same time

period (packaging). One of the tools I can only imagine is a

parting tool

and thus the snip from Ian's post.

This tool doesn't even look like a tool but like a piece of fine

jewelry!

I've never seen anything like it. All surfaces are as if you are

looking

into a mirror they are that highly polished but it is the geometry

of the

tool that is most intriguing. It is multi faceted like a gem

stone. "T" form

parting blades or those ground from tool steel blanks "Plow" to

the center

of the work with a bit of top and side relief curling the chip

straight back

over the blade. This tool splits the chip or "curl" and directs it

by a

complex set of angles away from a sinlge point of contact. Think

of a "V"

form snow blade. The address must be critical as the matching

holder and the

operator end of the tool only permit mounting to a "fixed" address

it seems.

Point of this was that as I looked at this tool, and after the

amazement of

the find disapated a bit, was that this shape would use very

little power to

do a great deal of cutting. It would also apear this tool is

designed to

part and face both faces of the parted stock in one operation!

Anyway, I has me thinking that shape and address has more to do

with power

requirement than just the brute force of plunging a square faced

tool into

the stock. Now I wish I wouldn't have opened the package :(

Marty

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Ian Foster" <fosterscons@...>
wrote:

John was concerned about the effect of the waveform
on meter accuracy. I don't think it is an issue because the
industrial drives with which I am familiar (up to 1500HP) have

used

moving coil meters connected across shunts. I think the armature
inductance smooths the current enough for the meter.

Hi Ian,

I think I'm being misquoted or at least misunderstood. Let's try to
baffle with detail again. Check me Uncle Rabid!

My concern over waveform affecting meter accuracy were only in
regard to electronic meters - like the ubiquitous digital meters.
This is especially so at low speeds measuring PWM with FET
controllers. The peak value is much bigger than the average and with
the meter on what appears a suitable range (even auto-ranged) the
peak signal gets clipped internally in the meter electronics prior
to digitising. If you're using such a meter over-ride any auto-
ranging. On full load increase the meter range until increasing it
further doesn't change the measurement result (just reduces the
available number of digits of resolution). Then stay on that scale.

Putting crest factor issues to one side, there are 2 main classes of
non-electronic meters in everyday use - moving coil and moving iron.
Both will accurately measure waveforms involved in FET and SCR
controllers as long as 1) the currents flow through their magnetic
windings (not shunted at HF by stray capacitance), 2) waveforms
aren't so spikey that the magnetic path saturates on peaks (similar
to the electronic meter clipping except not as abrupt) and 3) the
frequency components are within the performance capabilities of the
magnetic path materials. BTW, it's not motor inductance that does
the smoothing but the ballistics of the meter movement.

The big difference you need to keep in mind is that moving coil
meters are AVERAGE responding. Moving iron meters are true RMS
responding, on their supplied non-linear scale.

Actually, moving coil meters respond to the product of a coil
current and a constant permanent magnet field. Once averaged by the
meter ballistics you get a deflection proportional to the true
average. OTOH, moving iron meters respond to the product of a coil
current and a magnetic field generated by that same current through
a second series coil. Yes, I do know that's a gross simplification
of the moving iron meter principle! That means they respond to the
square of the current through them. Once averaged by the ballistics
they deflect proportional to the mean square and the scale is
conveniently graduated in a non-linear fashion to give the square
root of that deflection. Yes, it's truly Root Mean Square.

Now, which meter do you actually need? That depends on what you want
to understand. If you want energy transfer into the motor then it's
further complicated by the motor voltage being rectified (but
unsmoothed) AC. Best use a real power meter that puts the voltage
and current on 2 windings, somewhat akin to the moving iron
principle, giving a true average power. Or log both voltage and
current waveforms to a PC and crunch the numbers - that's what I'd
do in my lab. If you're concerned about copper loss in the motor,
that's just I2R and a true RMS current that hasn't got clipping
issues will serve you well.

By now I've no doubt confused you. Leaving aside the math behind
this, I think for your purposes any non-electronic meter will serve
as a relative indicator. An electronic one requires more care. An
RMS indicating one will relate particularly well to fuse opening. I
suspect anything more refined is more suited to the lab. In short,
I'd have used a moving iron meter - but I wasn't gonna tell you that
after you bought the MC and I'm sure it'll serve fine as a relative
indicator. And all you really wanted was a simple recommendation! <G>

John

Desoxyribonucleic acid.
Gregor Stransky, San Antonio, Texas

G'day all.
My wife has a Granny's brag book and now so do I. My grandson is in
one of the pictures.
I have posted some photos which may arouse some interest on the 7x10
Photos group. Title not is complete without my usual dyslexic typing.

What does DNA stand for??











One good turn deservews another
Regards
Ian

National Dyslexic Association.

G'day Jim

<snip>
I am hoping the meter will be useful when parting off as I frequently
stall the lathe, even with a 1/16 blade. That is why I wanted it at a
place where I can see it when operating the cross slide. It certainly
confirmed I need to change out the horse power resistor; I got short
changed.

Regards
Ian

Ian and All:

Late last fall I bought a SB 10L that had a large box of tooling, fixtures etc. Last night I was rummaging the larger box for the face plate and ran across a shoe box sized container of boring and parting tooling. Most of this looks to have never been used. On one of the boring bars was engraved "Green 1924". I assume the person or shop that purchased the tooling and date. Much of it is "micro" sized and appears to all be of the same manufacture which I have yet to ascertain, but maybe not all the same time period (packaging). One of the tools I can only imagine is a parting tool and thus the snip from Ian's post.

This tool doesn't even look like a tool but like a piece of fine jewelry! I've never seen anything like it. All surfaces are as if you are looking into a mirror they are that highly polished but it is the geometry of the tool that is most intriguing. It is multi faceted like a gem stone. "T" form parting blades or those ground from tool steel blanks "Plow" to the center of the work with a bit of top and side relief curling the chip straight back over the blade. This tool splits the chip or "curl" and directs it by a complex set of angles away from a sinlge point of contact. Think of a "V" form snow blade. The address must be critical as the matching holder and the operator end of the tool only permit mounting to a "fixed" address it seems.

Point of this was that as I looked at this tool, and after the amazement of the find disapated a bit, was that this shape would use very little power to do a great deal of cutting. It would also apear this tool is designed to part and face both faces of the parted stock in one operation!

Anyway, I has me thinking that shape and address has more to do with power requirement than just the brute force of plunging a square faced tool into the stock. Now I wish I wouldn't have opened the package :(

Marty

Hard to tell exactly; the package is marked "sodium bisulfate".
Since it's a plastic bottle, labeled "pH Down" for spas, I don't
think they were overly concerned with technical accuracy!

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., andrew franks <andyf1108@...>
wrote:

Hello Folks,
To be pedantic, I think that the sterilising stuff is sodium

metabisulphite (Na2 S2 O5), rather than metabisulphate, but I don't
suppose that would make any practical difference. I might also
experiment with sulphuric (battery) acid. When I made my first
attempts at anodising, it seemed to leave the aluminium alone (no
doubt because of the oxide layer), so maybe that would attack the
broken tap and not the aluminium alloy it was stuck in. I suppose an
initial rinse in solvent would help, by getting rid of any cutting
oil and allowing the chosen chemical to get at the steel.

Andy

roylowenthal <roylowenthal@...> wrote:
Yup! That's the same sodium bisulphate as the pH down

product for

pools/spas. It's quicker than alum (any of the common variants) &
easy to get.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Victoria Welch <wrlabs@>
wrote:

On Thursday 05 April 2007, Ian Foster wrote:

G'day Jeff, Andy, et al.
I'm not quite sure by your comments whether you have used Sodium
Bisulphate to extract broken taps. If you have then that
substantiates my assessment that it is the sulphate ions which

do

the

work. Being a bisulphate the iron ions do not need to displace

the

sodium ions to form sodium hydroxide (corrosive to aluminium),

they

just neutralise the solution forming iron sulphate and sodium
sulphate.
[ ... ]

Found this at my local homebrew store:

productid=285&cat=0&page=1

Would that work?

Convenient place to get to (something special in Seattle) and I

do

already go there from time to time.

Embarrassed to admit what chemistry I did take has long since

been

forgotten <blush>.

Thanks & take care, Vikki.
--
Victoria Welch, WV9K/7
It is my reading of history that Allah usually favours the army

with the

best firepower.-- The Warlord (_Ivory_, Mick Resnick)

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]