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Hi Dan,

No such thing as a dumb question - unless you don't ask it! In that
vein, I'll ask my dumb question. If you have a 7x12 lathe, why do
you need to enlarge the spindle bore to fit 3/4" through? The off-
the-shelf bore is 20mm so you have very nearly 1mm to spare. Do you
have a burr or am I missing something?

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "jumbo75007" <fullerdj@...>
wrote:

AHH, good explaination. I understand the reason now.
Thanks,
Dan Fuller
Carrollton, Texas


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal"

<roylowenthal@>

wrote:

A reamer takes less power to drive. For making the hole, a

drill

would do just as well, except a 13/16" drill bit requires more

torque

than the lathe can deliver; that's why drill bits cut more
aggressively than reamers.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "jumbo75007" <fullerdj@>
wrote:

oops... Here's the URL:

I just got the book "Lathework: A Complete Course" in the mail today.
I have only read a few pages & browsed through it, so this is far from
a comprehensive review, but I'm impressed with what I see so far. It
is written for an absolute beginner, and teaches you to use the lathe
by giving you a series of projects to complete. The projects involve
creating useful tools such as hole gauges, die holders, a screw jack
(which includes details on threading), precision tapers, etc. The
photos and diagrams are all very clear, and the text seems to be quite
well written (at least the tiny bit that I've read so far). Unlike
most of the other books on the subject, this is a recent publication
(2003).

Amazon appears to be out of it at the moment (new at least), but I
ordered my copy from them, so they will likely have it in stock again
soon.

Mike

hi again all-

we put up a follow-up article on the 8x cnc conversion. this time we completed the x-axis and mounted a motor to it. all that's left is to make the spacer blocks for the z-axis motor and we'll hook it up and start making chips!

in the midst of making these parts, we also made a fixture plate for the mini-mill which allowed us to make these relatively large parts. there are some minor space issues we need to work out with respect to plate and motor placement, but so far it works well both under manual and cnc. the added drag of the motor (even a nema34) isn't all that noticable.

<>
or
<>

thanks for listening and enjoy!
david


ps - we've just launched a new site for posting your hobby/machine pictures to share with other hobbyists. please put up pictures of your 8x lathes! :) <>

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On Wednesday 04 April 2007, Firewood wrote:

Here's the Alum method; found it here:


[ ,,, ]

Best description I have seen of this, thanks very much! Saved it for
future reference.

Take care, Vikki.
--
Victoria Welch, WV9K/7
Peers's Law:The solution to a problem changes the nature of the problem.

On Wednesday 04 April 2007, jumbo75007 wrote:

AHH, good explaination. I understand the reason now.
Thanks,
Dan Fuller
Carrollton, Texas

Me too, thanks!

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal"
<roylowenthal@...>

wrote:

A reamer takes less power to drive. For making the hole, a drill
would do just as well, except a 13/16" drill bit requires more
torque than the lathe can deliver; that's why drill bits cut more
aggressively than reamers.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "jumbo75007" <fullerdj@>
wrote:

--
Victoria Welch, WV9K/7
"Follow orders? No chance. Orders are for those who don't know what to
do, and that isn't my problem." -Lt(jg) Morgan Wolfe

Hi Steve,

On Wednesday 04 April 2007, cedge11 wrote:

Vikki
I've been contemplating a similar project but haven't gotten the
needed Round Tuit to get started. I have been thinking along the
lines of a little more rugged Laser, like the 6 dollar deal offered
on Ebay number 130096845676. It's a bit larger but I've seen them
take a thumping on the gun range and they seem to hold up well. any
thoughts?

Well, the $16 deal :-) but yes, it looks MUCH more robust than what I am
using. I'm going to see if he has more of those and I might give one
of them a go too. Maybe a couple and one for the intended purpose
too :-).

Red dots are nice but a laser on the chest has a way of conveying a
point much more clearly :).

Thanks & take care, Vikki.
--
Victoria Welch, WV9K/7
"The trouble with our liberal friends is not that they're ignorant: It's
just that they know so much that isn't so." -- Ronald Reagan

AHH, good explaination. I understand the reason now.
Thanks,
Dan Fuller
Carrollton, Texas


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal" <roylowenthal@...>
wrote:

A reamer takes less power to drive. For making the hole, a drill
would do just as well, except a 13/16" drill bit requires more torque
than the lathe can deliver; that's why drill bits cut more
aggressively than reamers.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "jumbo75007" <fullerdj@>
wrote:

Vikki
I've been contemplating a similar project but haven't gotten the
needed Round Tuit to get started. I have been thinking along the lines
of a little more rugged Laser, like the 6 dollar deal offered on Ebay
number 130096845676. It's a bit larger but I've seen them take a
thumping on the gun range and they seem to hold up well. any thoughts?

Steve

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Marty N" <martyn@...> wrote:

Hi Folks,

Got it together and almost calibrated tonight:



Under temporary working stuff - First entry: first prototype.

Take care, Vikki.
--
Vikki:

So I gave this a look and watched the 29 second 56MB :) vidio and I

gotta

ask, that's the stock gear box making all that noise, right? (Not

the belt

kit)

By the way, the clamps you made for the table are very nice pieces.

Did you

make those on the Micro?

Marty

A reamer takes less power to drive. For making the hole, a drill
would do just as well, except a 13/16" drill bit requires more torque
than the lathe can deliver; that's why drill bits cut more
aggressively than reamers.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "jumbo75007" <fullerdj@...>
wrote:

This is probably a stupid question, buy why is a reamer used for

this

operation and not a drill? All that is done is to open up the

hole.

An exact concentric hole is nice, but is it really necessary? The
idea is for a 3/4 inch rod to pass thru.
There is probably a good reason, but my "hammer and screw driver as

a

prybar" mentality is not seeing it.

Thanks in advance,

Dan Fuller
Carrollton, Texas

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal"
<roylowenthal@> wrote:

You can open it up to 13/16". In the "links" section of the 7x10

group

there's something for "Al's Reamer", since it was Varmint Al who
started the whole thing. There are a couple of reamers

circulating

around from user to user. Chris (of LMS fame) provides adult
supervision to keep things moving.

Roy

On Wednesday 04 April 2007, Marty N wrote:

Hi Folks,

Got it together and almost calibrated tonight:



Under temporary working stuff - First entry: first prototype.
[ ... ]
So I gave this a look and watched the 29 second 56MB :) vidio and I
gotta ask, that's the stock gear box making all that noise, right?
(Not the belt kit)

Yes, that was before the belt drive kit. Now I don't have the grinding
noises from the gears, but the motor whine is still present.

By the way, the clamps you made for the table are very nice pieces.
Did you make those on the Micro?

Yes Sir, I did. I purchased one of the Harbor Freight really cheap
angle vices:



and an angle finder:



to set the vice for the slope on the top.

For the angled sides I used the original to scribe the lines on the work
piece. I used a 1/4" piece of plywood to protect the table. Placed
the original clamp on that and aligned the side angle with a square to
the table (for a straight cut). Positioned the work piece up against
the original and clamped it down, removing the original clamp I used
for positioning. Then just cut to the scribed line.

Hope that makes some sense?!?

Both the vice and angle finder are pretty large for the micro-mill, but
they do work well enough.

The steps in the back of the clamps are off, only thing I can think of
is that I got lost cranking the handles :-/. When and if I make
another set I won't put them in I don't think, they will sit on the
regular clamp step block just fine without them.

I was initially worried about them "just" being aluminum, but so far
they have worked out fine and the size is FAR more suited to the
micro-mill. Made out of steel I am sure they would stand up to abuse
better.

By the way, I have no relation to Harbor Freight. It was the only
source I knew at the time and was affordable for me. I included links
as I am not always sure I am describing something correctly.

Hope this helps,

Take care, Vikki.
--
Victoria Welch, WV9K/7
"Engineering is the art of making what you want from things you can
get." -- Jerry Avins

Here's the Alum method; found it here:



"At most any grocery store, buy a box of alum. Select a glass or
ceramic container (made for stove top use) or an aluminum pot large
enough to place your part in so it can be submerged in water. Remove
the part and bring the water up to just below the boiling point of the
water. Add alum until no more will disolve, then place your part in the
solution. Keep the solution at a simmer and you will soon observe a
trail of tiny bubbles coming from the broken drill/tap. Keep the
solution at a simmer and add water as needed as long as the trail of
bubbles continue. When the bubbles stop, remove the part and let cool
for inspection. You should discover that the steel drill or tap has
turned to a rusty mud which is easily removed from the hole."

Dave

. Over the next few weeks I'll get around to doing the dials.

One of these days I'll make something which doesn't actually go on the lathe!

One good turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian


Good luck with that :) Tell me how that work out for you!

(smile)
Marty

On Wednesday 04 April 2007, Jeff Demand wrote:

Vikki,

I've heard that alum (food type stuff, concentrated and hot) will
work for steel taps in aluminium... no personal experience. On the
rare occasion that I bust a tap ;-) I use jewellery sparex pickle,
also sold much cheaper as Ph down for swimming pools and hot tubs by
most hardware stores. Use warm for a few hours just like the alum.
Not too nasty other than the fact that a drop on your clothes will
result in a hole after a few trips through the washing machine. And
don't drink it, tastes awful and will rot your teeth ;-).

Interesting! I think my roomie might have some of that amongst her
lapidary stuff (some kind of pickle IIRC), will ask her here in a bit.

Am planning on getting some alum next time I get by someplace likely to
have it anyway. Be prepared and all that.

Is it my imagination or is it less likely that problems will occur when
one is prepared to deal with them if they do?

I guess I'll have to bust another tap to try it out (while making
obscure banishing signs and winking rapidly :-).

Thanks & take care, Vikki.
--
Victoria Welch, WV9K/7
"Our gods are dead. Ancient Klingon warriors slew them a millenia ago.
They were...more trouble than they were worth." -Worf, Star Trek: Deep
Space Nine

Hi Folks,

Got it together and almost calibrated tonight:



Under temporary working stuff - First entry: first prototype.

Take care, Vikki.
--
Vikki:

So I gave this a look and watched the 29 second 56MB :) vidio and I gotta ask, that's the stock gear box making all that noise, right? (Not the belt kit)

By the way, the clamps you made for the table are very nice pieces. Did you make those on the Micro?

Marty

Vikki,

I've heard that alum (food type stuff, concentrated and hot) will work
for steel taps in aluminium... no personal experience. On the rare occasion
that I bust a tap ;-) I use jewellery sparex pickle, also sold much cheaper
as Ph down for swimming pools and hot tubs by most hardware stores. Use
warm for a few hours just like the alum. Not too nasty other than the fact
that a drop on your clothes will result in a hole after a few trips through
the washing machine. And don't drink it, tastes awful and will rot your
teeth ;-).

Jeff

* REPLY SEPARATOR *

On 4/4/2007 at 3:19 PM Victoria Welch wrote:

On Wednesday 04 April 2007, Arnie Minear wrote:

Vicki

Next time you might try 10 to 15% nitric, assuming it was stuck in
Aluminum. The aluminum will be passivated with a very thin layer of
oxide and the nitric will not penetrate it any further. The steel
will be eaten away post haste.

Thanks Arnie,

I'll keep that in mind for when I have someplace other than an apartment
as a shop. A bit leery about serious chemicals in this environment.

This whole experience sure will keep me a LOT more careful about tapping
it the future though.

Thanks & take care, Vikki.
--
Victoria Welch, WV9K/7
"Theres nothing to writing. All you do is sit at a typewriter and open a
vein." -- Red Smith



Be sure to check out for small mills and
lathes.
Yahoo! Groups Links





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12:48 PM


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On Wednesday 04 April 2007, Arnie Minear wrote:

Vicki

Next time you might try 10 to 15% nitric, assuming it was stuck in
Aluminum. The aluminum will be passivated with a very thin layer of
oxide and the nitric will not penetrate it any further. The steel
will be eaten away post haste.

Thanks Arnie,

I'll keep that in mind for when I have someplace other than an apartment
as a shop. A bit leery about serious chemicals in this environment.

This whole experience sure will keep me a LOT more careful about tapping
it the future though.

Thanks & take care, Vikki.
--
Victoria Welch, WV9K/7
"Theres nothing to writing. All you do is sit at a typewriter and open a
vein." -- Red Smith

Dan:

A drill would work just as well as a reamer.

Regards,
Chris Wood

LittleMachineShop.com <>
The premier source of parts and accessories for mini lathes and mini
mills.
396 W. Washington Blvd. #500, Pasadena, CA 91103
(800)981-9663 * Fax (626)797-7934

________________________________

From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of jumbo75007
Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2007 12:00 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: through bore



This is probably a stupid question, buy why is a reamer used for this
operation and not a drill? All that is done is to open up the hole.
An exact concentric hole is nice, but is it really necessary? The
idea is for a 3/4 inch rod to pass thru.
There is probably a good reason, but my "hammer and screw driver as a
prybar" mentality is not seeing it.

Thanks in advance,

Dan Fuller
Carrollton, Texas

--- In 7x12minilathe@...
<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com> , "roylowenthal"
<roylowenthal@...> wrote:

You can open it up to 13/16". In the "links" section of the 7x10

group

there's something for "Al's Reamer", since it was Varmint Al who
started the whole thing. There are a couple of reamers circulating
around from user to user. Chris (of LMS fame) provides adult
supervision to keep things moving.

Roy

Dan wrote........This is probably a stupid question, buy why is a reamer used for this operation and not a drill? All that is done is to open up the hole. An exact concentric hole is nice, but is it really necessary? The idea is for a 3/4 inch rod to pass thru..........

Or a 21mm drill, slightly larger.
Ellis

This is probably a stupid question, buy why is a reamer used for this
operation and not a drill? All that is done is to open up the hole.
An exact concentric hole is nice, but is it really necessary? The
idea is for a 3/4 inch rod to pass thru.
There is probably a good reason, but my "hammer and screw driver as a
prybar" mentality is not seeing it.

Thanks in advance,

Dan Fuller
Carrollton, Texas

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal"
<roylowenthal@...> wrote:

You can open it up to 13/16". In the "links" section of the 7x10

group

there's something for "Al's Reamer", since it was Varmint Al who
started the whole thing. There are a couple of reamers circulating
around from user to user. Chris (of LMS fame) provides adult
supervision to keep things moving.

Roy