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Date

Re: Broke the tap, Grrrrr.

Arnie Minear
 

Vicki

Next time you might try 10 to 15% nitric, assuming it was stuck in
Aluminum. The aluminum will be passivated with a very thin layer of
oxide and the nitric will not penetrate it any further. The steel
will be eaten away post haste.

Arnie


Source for machine shop info

 

Hello, Group! I found a source for a bit of somewhat esoteric and
possibly hard-to-find info on a Blacksmith Supply site! A company
called Centaur Forge (been around a long time and well-known to many)
has a selection of books I have not heard of before that sound
interesting. The link is:

www.centaurforge.com

Look in the Books/Videos section. No connection to Centaur, just
thought I would pass this along.
Ron
Keep makin' chips!


Re: Mini-lathe controller rectifier question

Jim RabidWolf
 

Alan, if you can send me a picture of the board, I can tell you how this is
oriented.

Normally, the rectifier that is used in these units is a sqaure with one
corner cut of diagonally - that's the positive side - diagonally opposite
corner is negative, the other two are AC. If you hold the board in your
hand, with the terminal block for the motor, AC, etc., facing you, the upper
right hand corner (towards the middle of the board) is the positive.

JRW
Uncle Rabid ( )
We Repair Electronic Speed Controllers
For Asian Mini Lathes and Mini Mills
"Just Crazy Enough To Get the Job Done"
(Join Rabid's Lathe/Mill Controller/Mod's List!)
(Also visit BarStockEngines - join us in building without Castings!)

----- Original Message -----
From: "born4something" <ajs@...>
To: <7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2007 12:00 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Mini-lathe controller rectifier question


Hi Alan,

These things are often chassis mounted for heatsinking. Hence the
bolt hole in the middle. That's why Jim was making a point of saying
you needed a device that would be well within its ratings as your
application doesn't have it bolted down. If you like (and have
space) you can bolt a small heatsink to it or even extend it on
longer wires to mount on the casting. However, the usual approach on
a PCB is to simply use an over-rated device - they're pretty cheap.
If it just blows again you likely have some other issue causing it.

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Alan Reeves" <goatfarm@...>
wrote:

Thanks for the responses. The rectifier I bought was a NTE53004
which
looks like it will handle 1000v and 10A, but what threw me was the
different form (this one has a hole in the middle) I will look on
the
board to see if I can figure stuff out as to the orientation.
Thanks
again


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@>
wrote:

Hi Alan,

As Jim indicated, these things aren't critical as long as they
can
handle the volts and amps of the application and are over-rated
sufficiently to handle the sub-standard heatsinking.

Re orientation, they are usually marked with '+' and '-' on the
DC
terminals with the AC ones being marked either AC or '~'. The
two AC
terminals are interchangeable. Often the '+' terminal will have
a
chamfered corner, dot or some other marking to reduce assembly
errors. The PCB overlay usually (always, if I designed it) has
similar markings as well.

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Jim RabidWolf"
<unclerabid@> wrote:

You need something that will handle at LEAST 8 amps (so it'll
run
cool) and
at least 600 volts.

The OEM's are marked as 1000 volts 10 amps - 8amps at 1000
will do
as will
10 at 800 .... GIve me a yell if you have trouble finding one.
IF
you'll
send me a the board number, I'll tell you what the original
was.

Jim RabidWolf
Uncle Rabid ( )
We Repair Electronic Speed Controllers
For Asian Mini Lathes and Mini Mills
"Just Crazy Enough To Get the Job Done"
(Join Rabid's Lathe/Mill Controller/Mod's List!)
(Also visit BarStockEngines - join us in building without
Castings!)

----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Reeves" <goatfarm@>
To: <7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2007 6:17 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Mini-lathe controller rectifier
question


I have a Homier Mini-lathe with a shorted bridged rectifier. I
removed the rectifier to see if I could buy another and have
lost
the
darn thing. Does anyone know the part number? I had a
rectifier
on
order but when it came it, it did not look like the old one.
Also,
the rectifier is in the lower left of the circuit board when
looking
at that side, which way was the flat on the rectifier? I seem
to
remember it was up and to the left. Any help would be
appreciated.
Thanks

Alan



Be sure to check out for
small
mills and
lathes.
Yahoo! Groups Links



Be sure to check out for small mills and
lathes.
Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: Book recommendation for a newbie

 

"The Amateur's Lathe" is available from Amazon in the US (if that's where
you are) for $25.95 in paperback. Of course, you're probably better off
if you can find it on eBay.

John

----- Original Message -----
From: R. Roll
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2007 8:49 AM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Book recommendation for a newbie


I want to thank everyone for your advice and suggestions. Buying a
bunch of books about metal working usually wouldn't be a problem,
but a lot of the books that I found on Amazon.com and other places
are expensive and often don't have enough reviews or other
information to really tell how useful they would be. I've already
busted my budget with the purchase of the lathe and some basic
tooling, and there's still some more stuff that I need to buy
besides more books.

I've learned that a lot of the "old" books can be useful. The
South Bend lathe manuals in particular seem to be highly
recommended, and they're also very inexpensive and sometimes free.
So I'll probably buy at least one of them the next time I place an
order with LMS.

Sparry's "The Amateur's Lathe" was recommended by a couple of
people, but it seems to be available only in the UK and it takes
4-6 weeks to arrive from Amazon.UK. So I've started looking for a
copy on eBay.

I also like the recommendation for "The Home Machinist's Handbook"
by Doug Brines. Amazon.com let me look inside the book and and it
had good reviews. It's only about $14 and it includes some projects
that I can build, so it may be my next purchase.

I hadn't thought of it until this morning, but I'm going to go to a
large Border's bookstore to see if they have any other books that I
can look at before I buy one.

Thanks again for all your help.

Rob

__________________________________________________________
Don't get soaked. Take a quick peek at the forecast
with the Yahoo! Search weather shortcut.


Re: Book recommendation for a newbie

 

I want to thank everyone for your advice and suggestions. Buying a
bunch of books about metal working usually wouldn't be a problem,
but a lot of the books that I found on Amazon.com and other places
are expensive and often don't have enough reviews or other
information to really tell how useful they would be. I've already
busted my budget with the purchase of the lathe and some basic
tooling, and there's still some more stuff that I need to buy
besides more books.

I've learned that a lot of the "old" books can be useful. The
South Bend lathe manuals in particular seem to be highly
recommended, and they're also very inexpensive and sometimes free.
So I'll probably buy at least one of them the next time I place an
order with LMS.

Sparry's "The Amateur's Lathe" was recommended by a couple of
people, but it seems to be available only in the UK and it takes
4-6 weeks to arrive from Amazon.UK. So I've started looking for a
copy on eBay.

I also like the recommendation for "The Home Machinist's Handbook"
by Doug Brines. Amazon.com let me look inside the book and and it
had good reviews. It's only about $14 and it includes some projects
that I can build, so it may be my next purchase.

I hadn't thought of it until this morning, but I'm going to go to a
large Border's bookstore to see if they have any other books that I
can look at before I buy one.

Thanks again for all your help.

Rob


















____________________________________________________________________________________
Don't get soaked. Take a quick peek at the forecast
with the Yahoo! Search weather shortcut.


Re: homier

Michael Taglieri
 

If you mean you live in an apartment, I used my lathe and a drill press
that way for years. The regular splash guard will keep much of the swarf
from escaping backwards and sideways, and building a similar vertical
guard around the back and sides of your work bench will also help.

For swarf that escapes to the front, an open drawer in the work bench
will catch quite a bit, and a magnet near the tool will also help, if
you're cutting steel. Finally, a shop vac held near the tool will catch
all kinds of metal, but will also create a lot of noise.

Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@...

Everyone has his reasons.
- Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"


On Mon, 19 Mar 2007 16:37:39 -0000 "fricebe" <fricebe@...> writes:

hi all
I'm a cliff dweller and have a 7x12 on order. I think I must
construct
some sort of enclosure to contain the fly-offs. (have to get along
with the lady that cleans up)
anyone got a design, or just suggestions.....
thanks
FRI



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mills and lathes.
Yahoo! Groups Links





Re: Mini-lathe controller rectifier question

 

Hi Alan,

These things are often chassis mounted for heatsinking. Hence the
bolt hole in the middle. That's why Jim was making a point of saying
you needed a device that would be well within its ratings as your
application doesn't have it bolted down. If you like (and have
space) you can bolt a small heatsink to it or even extend it on
longer wires to mount on the casting. However, the usual approach on
a PCB is to simply use an over-rated device - they're pretty cheap.
If it just blows again you likely have some other issue causing it.

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Alan Reeves" <goatfarm@...>
wrote:

Thanks for the responses. The rectifier I bought was a NTE53004
which
looks like it will handle 1000v and 10A, but what threw me was the
different form (this one has a hole in the middle) I will look on
the
board to see if I can figure stuff out as to the orientation.
Thanks
again


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@>
wrote:

Hi Alan,

As Jim indicated, these things aren't critical as long as they
can
handle the volts and amps of the application and are over-rated
sufficiently to handle the sub-standard heatsinking.

Re orientation, they are usually marked with '+' and '-' on the
DC
terminals with the AC ones being marked either AC or '~'. The
two AC
terminals are interchangeable. Often the '+' terminal will have
a
chamfered corner, dot or some other marking to reduce assembly
errors. The PCB overlay usually (always, if I designed it) has
similar markings as well.

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Jim RabidWolf"
<unclerabid@> wrote:

You need something that will handle at LEAST 8 amps (so it'll
run
cool) and
at least 600 volts.

The OEM's are marked as 1000 volts 10 amps - 8amps at 1000
will do
as will
10 at 800 .... GIve me a yell if you have trouble finding one.
IF
you'll
send me a the board number, I'll tell you what the original
was.

Jim RabidWolf
Uncle Rabid ( )
We Repair Electronic Speed Controllers
For Asian Mini Lathes and Mini Mills
"Just Crazy Enough To Get the Job Done"
(Join Rabid's Lathe/Mill Controller/Mod's List!)
(Also visit BarStockEngines - join us in building without
Castings!)

----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Reeves" <goatfarm@>
To: <7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2007 6:17 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Mini-lathe controller rectifier
question


I have a Homier Mini-lathe with a shorted bridged rectifier. I
removed the rectifier to see if I could buy another and have
lost
the
darn thing. Does anyone know the part number? I had a
rectifier
on
order but when it came it, it did not look like the old one.
Also,
the rectifier is in the lower left of the circuit board when
looking
at that side, which way was the flat on the rectifier? I seem
to
remember it was up and to the left. Any help would be
appreciated.
Thanks

Alan



Be sure to check out for
small
mills and
lathes.
Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: Book recommendation for a newbie

Michael Taglieri
 

My two favorite books for the kind of lathes we use are "The Amateur's
Lathe" by L.H. Sparey (Argus Books 1948, ISBN 0 85242 288 1) and "Using
the Small Lathe" by L.C. Mason (Argus Books 1963, ISBN 0 85242 139 7).

The great thing about both of these books is that they tell you how to do
things on a lathe that you'd be doing on a different machine if you were
working in a real machine shop, and they tell you how to do things that
actually should be done on a bigger lathe than the one you have. They
don't replace South Bend's classic text "How to Run a Lathe" and similar
books, but supplement them. I believe both of them have been reprinted
and are currently available.

Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@...

Everyone has his reasons.
- Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"


On Mon, 02 Apr 2007 18:33:15 -0000 "rroll99" <rroll99@...> writes:

I was wondering if the group has a consensus about what would be a
good book for someone who wants to not only learn how to use a
lathe,
but also how to properly layout, cut, drill, tap, grind bits and do
other basic machine shop operations.


Re: Mini-lathe controller rectifier question

 

Thanks for the responses. The rectifier I bought was a NTE53004 which
looks like it will handle 1000v and 10A, but what threw me was the
different form (this one has a hole in the middle) I will look on the
board to see if I can figure stuff out as to the orientation. Thanks
again

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@...> wrote:

Hi Alan,

As Jim indicated, these things aren't critical as long as they can
handle the volts and amps of the application and are over-rated
sufficiently to handle the sub-standard heatsinking.

Re orientation, they are usually marked with '+' and '-' on the DC
terminals with the AC ones being marked either AC or '~'. The two AC
terminals are interchangeable. Often the '+' terminal will have a
chamfered corner, dot or some other marking to reduce assembly
errors. The PCB overlay usually (always, if I designed it) has
similar markings as well.

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Jim RabidWolf"
<unclerabid@> wrote:

You need something that will handle at LEAST 8 amps (so it'll run
cool) and
at least 600 volts.

The OEM's are marked as 1000 volts 10 amps - 8amps at 1000 will do
as will
10 at 800 .... GIve me a yell if you have trouble finding one. IF
you'll
send me a the board number, I'll tell you what the original was.

Jim RabidWolf
Uncle Rabid ( )
We Repair Electronic Speed Controllers
For Asian Mini Lathes and Mini Mills
"Just Crazy Enough To Get the Job Done"
(Join Rabid's Lathe/Mill Controller/Mod's List!)
(Also visit BarStockEngines - join us in building without
Castings!)

----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Reeves" <goatfarm@>
To: <7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2007 6:17 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Mini-lathe controller rectifier question


I have a Homier Mini-lathe with a shorted bridged rectifier. I
removed the rectifier to see if I could buy another and have lost
the
darn thing. Does anyone know the part number? I had a rectifier
on
order but when it came it, it did not look like the old one. Also,
the rectifier is in the lower left of the circuit board when
looking
at that side, which way was the flat on the rectifier? I seem to
remember it was up and to the left. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks

Alan



Be sure to check out for small
mills and
lathes.
Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: First prototype of the laser edge/center finder done!

 

G'day Rance.
I am not an imposter I am the Ian Foster!
Alias Steam4ian. I don't know how my identity got revealed, anyhow I
don't think I have too much to be ashamed of.

One good turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" <rupps@...> wrote:

Ok Ian, I have to ask. Why are you pilfering steam4ian's tag line.
Are
you an imposter? Are you one and the same? :) I just have to
ask, "Will
the real Ian please stand up".

PS: Thanks for the wisdom you impart to the group.


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Ian Foster" <fosterscons@>
wrote:

...

One good turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian


Re: First prototype of the laser edge/center finder done! (drifting OT)

Victoria Welch
 

On Tuesday 03 April 2007, Ian Foster wrote:
G'day Vikki

Reading you posts is like reading "Mad" magazine!
Living my life is like Mad Magazine LOL :)!

The content is great but the best part is the marginal drwings, in
your case the quotes. They are brilliant!
[ ... ]
Please keep them up.
I but stand on the shoulders of giants :-).

Thanks Ian. I've been collecting quotes that struck me somehow forever
now and have accumulated quite a pile. I have a script here (randsig)
that pulls one out of the file and plops a new one in my .signature for
every email :-). I do so love linux :-)!

Take care, Vikki.
--
Victoria Welch, WV9K/7
"Two of the gravest general dangers to survival are the desire for
comfort and a passive outlook." -- U.S. Army Ranger Handbook


Re: First prototype of the laser edge/center finder done!

Victoria Welch
 

On Tuesday 03 April 2007, born4something wrote:
[ ... ] Specialization is for insects." -- Robert Heinlein
I love it. Guess I identify too. Haven't done the sonnets. And I'm
not sure about the dieing bit. But amazingly I've tried the rest in
one way or another!
Strangely, a lot of wisdom from a science fiction author...

I've also never done a sonnet nor yet died gallantly, but these days the
opportunity could come at any time :-(.

Just always had a fascination about how things were made and what
makes them tick :-).
Yep. That's what got me into electronics. Also led me to spending a
quarter century in a defence research lab designing and testing a
lot of "experimental stuff" that I can't detail. A lot of multi-
skilling.
Those are the perfect (IMO) jobs, paid to play! You were indeed lucky!

Now what was that about laser edge finders? I think that was the
topic...
Err, I think so :-).

Now that I have all the errands and other required tasks for the day
done (and caught up on mail :-) I can get back into the shop and play,
err work on the edge finder some more.

Someone passed me a link to one of the commercial edge / center finders
and it is supposed to be usable from 1-4", what I posted on the web
page was done at 6", not sure what that means, will have to play with
it some and see.

Fun!

Take care, Vikki.
--
Victoria Welch, WV9K/7
"Sometimes, I think the proof that intelligent life exists elsewhere in
the Universe is that it hasn't contacted us." -- Rick Lyons


Re: First prototype of the laser edge/center finder done!

 

Who'd a thunk it. Thanks John. :) Man are those things getting cheap.


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <John@...> wrote:

The $1 pointers are available from (wait for it) your local Dollar
Store :-) These stores have slightly differing names but they're
common now. Sometimes they keep the pointers behind the counter
and
you have to ask for them.

The pointers include 3 batteries of the type used in my DROs so the
pointers are slowly accumulating in my shop...

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" <rupps@> wrote:

Vikki, I'm sure I missed it somewhere along the way but would you
mind telling me where you got the $1 pointers? Thanks. :)

Rance


Re: through bore (same ? for the HF8x12)

 

So how about for the HF 8x12. Max dimensions we can ream to? And will
the same reamer work, just drilling deeper? IMWTK.



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal"
<roylowenthal@...> wrote:

You can open it up to 13/16". In the "links" section of the 7x10
group
there's something for "Al's Reamer", since it was Varmint Al who
started the whole thing. There are a couple of reamers circulating
around from user to user. Chris (of LMS fame) provides adult
supervision to keep things moving.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <botmom@> wrote:

Some where I read there is a way to Bore out the SPINDLE /
HEADSTOCK
Does any one know where the information is and/or how much can it
be
opened to?
Thanks;
John Fetz
928 680 4994


Re: First prototype of the laser edge/center finder done!

 

Ok Ian, I have to ask. Why are you pilfering steam4ian's tag line. Are
you an imposter? Are you one and the same? :) I just have to ask, "Will
the real Ian please stand up".

PS: Thanks for the wisdom you impart to the group.


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Ian Foster" <fosterscons@...>
wrote:

...

One good turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian


Re: First prototype of the laser edge/center finder done! (drifting OT)

 

G'day Vikki

Reading you posts is like reading "Mad" magazine!
The content is great but the best part is the marginal drwings, in your
case the quotes. They are brilliant!
"A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects." Robert
Heinlein

Please keep them up.

One good turn deserves another.
Regards
Ian


Re: First prototype of the laser edge/center finder done!

 

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Victoria Welch <wrlabs@...>
wrote:

"A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an
invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet,
balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take
orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal,
fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects."
Robert
Heinlein
I love it. Guess I identify too. Haven't done the sonnets. And I'm
not sure about the dieing bit. But amazingly I've tried the rest in
one way or another!

Just always had a fascination about how things were made and what
makes
them tick :-).
Yep. That's what got me into electronics. Also led me to spending a
quarter century in a defence research lab designing and testing a
lot of "experimental stuff" that I can't detail. A lot of multi-
skilling.

Now what was that about laser edge finders? I think that was the
topic...

John


Re: First prototype of the laser edge/center finder done!

Victoria Welch
 

Hi John,

On Tuesday 03 April 2007, born4something wrote:
Hi,

You mean like eBay item 150102904848? I've bought some of these and
thought them pretty cost effective. He seems to have wound up
listings today - probably having Easter off. But it's hard to beat
10c each!
Wow, that is a LOT better than what I did! bookmarked that guy :).

IIRC I got mine from here:



Could have been elsewhere, but we get a lot of our batteries from those
folks.

Take care, Vikki.
--
Victoria Welch, WV9K/7
"A society that will trade a little liberty for a little order will lose
both, and deserve neither." -- Thomas Jefferson


Re: First prototype of the laser edge/center finder done!

Victoria Welch
 

On Tuesday 03 April 2007, born4something wrote:
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Victoria Welch <wrlabs@...>
wrote:
One place down under I ordered a bunch of parts from that I was
really pleased with is Futurlec. MUCH cheaper than rat shack and
generally at very least the same if not better quality. Problem is
that shipping to the states takes FOREVER :-). IG (Instant
Gratification, takes too long to say :) isn't possible ;-). No
connection, just a happy customer.
Yes, I've bought a lot from them over the last year. Their prices
get even better on quantity but if you exceed their shelf quantity
on one item the whole order gets slowed by an extra month or so.
True, I turned on a friend to them and something he wanted they were out
of (or didn't have enough, not sure) was holding up the order, he
canceled those until next order and they shipped the rest. He still
thinks I am kidding about the FOREVER part :).

Not
sure which shopfront you went through but everything seems to ship
from Bangkok.
Ordered from :

Say, you're one diverse character. Here on a lathe
forum and knowing about RF connectors and obscure e-sources like
Futurlec. I thought you were a software guru. Is the e-hardware bit
another life?
Deeply interested in the universe in which I live, is my best excuse :).

Although I didn't find this for years after I started practicing it, it
is probably the best way to describe myself:

"A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects." Robert
Heinlein

Just always had a fascination about how things were made and what makes
them tick :-). Never did know my place :-) and whatever else might be
said about my parents, they never forced me into any mold, just let me
study what interested me :-). Growing up in a military family probably
had some bearing on this.

Take care, Vikki.
--
Victoria Welch, WV9K/7
"Before Guadalcanal the enemy advanced at his pleasure -- after
Guadalcanal he retreated at ours." - Admiral "Bull" Halsey


Re: through bore

 

You can open it up to 13/16". In the "links" section of the 7x10 group
there's something for "Al's Reamer", since it was Varmint Al who
started the whole thing. There are a couple of reamers circulating
around from user to user. Chris (of LMS fame) provides adult
supervision to keep things moving.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <botmom@...> wrote:

Some where I read there is a way to Bore out the SPINDLE / HEADSTOCK
Does any one know where the information is and/or how much can it be
opened to?
Thanks;
John Fetz
928 680 4994