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Re: Homier Lathe Arrived Today !

 

Thanks, Mike. I had trouble getting the page, too. Just a thought, could this be put on the 7x12 Group site, in the Database Files? "Down the road", this could be very helpful for new members. Thanks, Ron.
Keep makin' chips!

---- Mike Payson <mike@...> wrote:

Works fine for me. It could be something's up with the hosting site,
so I've temporarily mirrored it it on my site,
Re: My 8x12 is here :)

 

Ward, I found the tool size from my earlier request. I'll write it
down this time. Yes, I've read extensively in mini-lathe.com. LMS has
lots of info/specs but is sparse on the 8x12. Do you have an 8x12?

I'm still in need of spindle thread size though. I'm realizing the
8x12 challenges over the generic 7x12's now. I still think I made the
right choice for me though.

Still needing spindle thread size for an 8x12...

Rance


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "wardwmiller" <wardmiller@...>
wrote:

For answers to those questions (and many more) go to

There you can order the 4-jaw chuck along with the proper adapter
plate.

Then go to There you will find an
extensive education about how to set up your new lathe and how to
use it.

Good luck with it. Let us know how you make out.
Re: My 8x12 is here :)

 

For answers to those questions (and many more) go to

There you can order the 4-jaw chuck along with the proper adapter plate.

Then go to There you will find an
extensive education about how to set up your new lathe and how to use it.

Good luck with it. Let us know how you make out.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" <rupps@...> wrote:

Well, it is officially home now. Got home late so it is still in the
crate. The worst thing I can say about it so far is that it is red, but
I knew that when I ordered it. Other thing is it is HEAVY, but that's
gonna be a benefit later, right?

IMMEDIATE HELP NEEDED:

* What size tools does the tool post that comes with it use? I thought
they were 1/2" but wanted to confirm. I could measure it, but I'm not
at home and it is not that accessable right now.

* In buying a 4-jaw chuck (from Grizzly for instance), how do I specify
the mounting plate size/configuration?

* Same question for the chuck itself. How do I get one that will
successfully mount to my spindle (via mounting plate) ?

QUICK answers to these questions would be GREATLY appreciated as I need
to place an order IMMEDIATELY. :) Thanks for all your help guys * gals.

Rance
My 8x12 is here :)

 

Well, it is officially home now. Got home late so it is still in the
crate. The worst thing I can say about it so far is that it is red, but
I knew that when I ordered it. Other thing is it is HEAVY, but that's
gonna be a benefit later, right?

IMMEDIATE HELP NEEDED:

* What size tools does the tool post that comes with it use? I thought
they were 1/2" but wanted to confirm. I could measure it, but I'm not
at home and it is not that accessable right now.

* In buying a 4-jaw chuck (from Grizzly for instance), how do I specify
the mounting plate size/configuration?

* Same question for the chuck itself. How do I get one that will
successfully mount to my spindle (via mounting plate) ?

QUICK answers to these questions would be GREATLY appreciated as I need
to place an order IMMEDIATELY. :) Thanks for all your help guys * gals.

Rance
Re: Slitting Saw Recommendations

 

I think I just added Grizzly to my supplier list. Thanks a bunch.


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "nyceacres200"
<nyceacres200@...> wrote:

--Hi Rance,

Not sure where your looking, but in the 2007 Grizzly catalog
(pg.614) they are $2.95 ea. I bought three, 1/32,1/16,1/8 with a
7/8
hole a few years ago when I first got my mini mill, during an
accessory "buying spree", just to have around. Shortly after that I
bought several end mills, taps, R-8 colletts, and more from someone
at a flea market selling tons of machine accessories that were
used,
but well cared for, and no Asian stuff, all high quality
prfessional
shop stuff, and I got a few 1/2" hole slitting saws with the bunch
of stuff, all for about $15! The biggest disappointment of all of
it
was the "fits all" arbor from Grizzly. I don't use the saws alot,
but they're nice to have on hand. Certainly not a "must have" for
just starting out though. I cut alum. dry, steel needs cutting
fluid, w/ slow feed. Use some type of shield, they spray alot of
fluid!

Frank

- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" <rupps@> wrote:

Thanks Frank,

So is $9-$10 about the going price for :

Diameter (Inch): 2-1/2
Face Width (Inch): 1/16
Arbor Hole Size: 7/8
Material: HSS
Number of Teeth: 28
Type of Tooth: Plain Tooth

or should I look elsewhere since it prob. won't be the first
accessory I'll be wanting to use? Thanks.

Rance

PS: I think I'll just make my own arbor. Only need one size for
now.
Re: Micromill vs Minimill .... was originally (no subject)

Gavin McIntosh
 




From: "Gavin McIntosh" <gavinmc3@...>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Re: Micromill vs Minimill .... was originally (no subject)
Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2007 22:57:52 +1000

Gregor,

I likewise got the micromill as a match for the 7x14.
After a year or so it got CNCed, been hard for me to get the extended tables
here in OZ but they bring it up to the minimill size.
The micromill is relatively cheap to cnc and is quite useful.
But a X3 cnced would be extremely useful. The manual machine X1 to X3 is
about 3 times the price but you could spend a higher percentage cncing the
micromill.

After you have a cnc mill you never go back, it does require some learning
G-code etc.
If you are PC/electronics minded then cncing it will not scare you and if
you have no skills there are a few conversion kits for both, less for the X2
minimill.

Note sure about the X3 cnc guys buty micromill guys hang out on the


From: "cedge11" <cedge@...>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Micromill vs Minimill .... was originally
(no
subject)
Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2007 05:00:11 -0000

John
Taking into consideration that once you have the mill, you'll
constantly find more things it can do or that you'll want it to do.
I'd probably have to stand by my suggestion. By the time you have a
small machinst vise strapped down to the table with your work material
in place and a collet loaded with an end mill, you'll discover the
available Z axis disappears far too quickly.

I don't want to spend your money for you. I'll just say that even
though I only make parts for small steam engines, I'm already fighting
the temptation to move up to the new X3 Seig to gain a bit more
flexibilty.

Steve
When your favorite tool is a hammer, everything around you looks like
it needs a nail.



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@...> wrote:

Hi Steve,

I too have been pondering what size mill would suit my needs. Not
ready to buy yet but gathering info on what to write on my wish
list. Your advice seems fine but relative. What sort (and size) of
jobs are you doing? If a guy only needs to mill work up to 100mm
does that change your advice?

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "cedge11" <cedge@> wrote:

Gregor
The Mini Mill sometimes proves to be a bit cramped for space and
travel. The Micro Mill, which is even smaller, would be very
limiting
in what you would be able to do with it. I'd probably nudge you
toward
the larger Mini Mill just to keep the predictable curses from
scaring
small children. A bit more expense, but it's also a quite bit more
machine.

Steve

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., <gregorstransky@> wrote:

Hi:
I just joined the group. I only recently became interested in
home shop
machinery and have been doing some lathe work on my 7x12
Cummins. I
plan to
buy a mill in the near future. Does anybody have any experience
with
the
HarborFreight Micro Mill/Drill that sells for $299? I already
posted
the
same question to the mini-mill group, but received only a few
responses.
Thank you.
Gregor Stransky, San Antonio, Texas
_________________________________________________________________
Advertisement: yellow.com.au - Find what you need when you need it

_________________________________________________________________
Advertisement: Want FREE talk & text to 5 Telstra numbers?? Find out how

Re: Micromill vs Minimill .... was originally (no subject)

Gavin McIntosh
 

Gregor,

I likewise got the micromill as a match for the 7x14.
After a year or so it got CNCed, been hard for me to get the extended tables here in OZ but they bring it up to the minimill size.
The micromill is relatively cheap to cnc and is quite useful.
But a X3 cnced would be extremely useful. The manual machine X1 to X3 is about 3 times the price but you could spend a higher percentage cncing the micromill.

After you have a cnc mill you never go back, it does require some learning G-code etc.
If you are PC/electronics minded then cncing it will not scare you and if you have no skills there are a few conversion kits for both, less for the X2 minimill.

Note sure about the X3 cnc guys buty micromill guys hang out on the


From: "cedge11" <cedge@...>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Micromill vs Minimill .... was originally (no subject)
Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2007 05:00:11 -0000

John
Taking into consideration that once you have the mill, you'll
constantly find more things it can do or that you'll want it to do.
I'd probably have to stand by my suggestion. By the time you have a
small machinst vise strapped down to the table with your work material
in place and a collet loaded with an end mill, you'll discover the
available Z axis disappears far too quickly.

I don't want to spend your money for you. I'll just say that even
though I only make parts for small steam engines, I'm already fighting
the temptation to move up to the new X3 Seig to gain a bit more
flexibilty.

Steve
When your favorite tool is a hammer, everything around you looks like
it needs a nail.



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@...> wrote:

Hi Steve,

I too have been pondering what size mill would suit my needs. Not
ready to buy yet but gathering info on what to write on my wish
list. Your advice seems fine but relative. What sort (and size) of
jobs are you doing? If a guy only needs to mill work up to 100mm
does that change your advice?

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "cedge11" <cedge@> wrote:

Gregor
The Mini Mill sometimes proves to be a bit cramped for space and
travel. The Micro Mill, which is even smaller, would be very
limiting
in what you would be able to do with it. I'd probably nudge you
toward
the larger Mini Mill just to keep the predictable curses from
scaring
small children. A bit more expense, but it's also a quite bit more
machine.

Steve

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., <gregorstransky@> wrote:

Hi:
I just joined the group. I only recently became interested in
home shop
machinery and have been doing some lathe work on my 7x12
Cummins. I
plan to
buy a mill in the near future. Does anybody have any experience
with
the
HarborFreight Micro Mill/Drill that sells for $299? I already
posted
the
same question to the mini-mill group, but received only a few
responses.
Thank you.
Gregor Stransky, San Antonio, Texas
_________________________________________________________________
Advertisement: yellow.com.au - Find what you need when you need it

Re: Wood Turning Tool Rest

andrew franks
 

Machine Mart do one as an accessory for their 6x10 micro lathe (and it comes with a wood-turning centre), but from their catalogue it looks designed to fasten into the T slots on the micro's cross-slide. Should be easy enough to make your own. After all, it's only an angled ledge perched on top of a post, and your local garage or wrought-iron gate place should be able to weld the bits together, once you have fashioned them. You might have to remove the stud which the toolpost swivels around, and fasten it down to the cross-slide with a short bolt (with a peg down into the hole for the toolpost detent to prevent the rest swivelling).
Andy

wireless_paul <paul@...> wrote:
Wondered where I can obtain one of these in the UK for a Mini Lathe.
Thanks.
Paul






---------------------------------
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Re: Warco WM180 manufacturer.

 

How true!
i went to the doctor once suffering from insomnia - he said 'come back and see me in the morning!'
No, joking apart, he said ' I can give you some strong tablets for it if you want' - i said, 'OK,doc, let me sleep on it'

----- Original Message -----
From: Robin
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Friday, March 23, 2007 9:45 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Warco WM180 manufacturer.



Insomnia lets you get lots of research done at night. The trouble is you can be too tired during the day to use it!

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., andrew franks <andyf1108@...> wrote:
>
> Hello, Robin - you stayed up late!
> Good research - I had thought our lathes were somehow connected with Seig, because of the similarity in the cross- and top-slides, but that obviously isn't so.
> Weiss is German for white, and Sieg is German for victory - the Chinese seem to be attracted to German-sounding trade-names, though someone should have told Sieg that theirs still has overtones from 60-odd years ago.
> Like you, I'm pretty happy with my Warco-Weiss, too - it worked well straight from the crate..I think Chris ("Mozziesplat") has just ordered one, too.
> Andy
>
> Robin <robandjan@...> wrote:
> I have a Warco WM180V 7x12 as does at least one other UK member of this forum. I have had my one for just over a Year and believe it to be a lovely little lathe. Trawling through the Internet I have found the address of the original manufacturer of these lathes in China. They can be found at I don't know if any US seller re-badges these, but it might be worth an email to the company. I know this site is virtually dedicated to the Seig mini lathe, but for just a little bit more cash you can have one of these. Warco provide all the optional items free, except the Collet Chuck and Collet Holder.
>
> Robin
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> New Yahoo! Mail is the ultimate force in competitive emailing. Find out more at the Yahoo! Mail Championships. Plus: play games and win prizes.
>
>
>






------------------------------------------------------------------------------


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Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.413 / Virus Database: 268.18.17/730 - Release Date: 22/03/2007
Re: Warco WM180 manufacturer.

 

Insomnia lets you get lots of research done at night. The trouble is you can be too tired during the day to use it!

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., andrew franks <andyf1108@...> wrote:

Hello, Robin - you stayed up late!
Good research - I had thought our lathes were somehow connected with Seig, because of the similarity in the cross- and top-slides, but that obviously isn't so.
Weiss is German for white, and Sieg is German for victory - the Chinese seem to be attracted to German-sounding trade-names, though someone should have told Sieg that theirs still has overtones from 60-odd years ago.
Like you, I'm pretty happy with my Warco-Weiss, too - it worked well straight from the crate..I think Chris ("Mozziesplat") has just ordered one, too.
Andy

Robin <robandjan@...> wrote:
I have a Warco WM180V 7x12 as does at least one other UK member of this forum. I have had my one for just over a Year and believe it to be a lovely little lathe. Trawling through the Internet I have found the address of the original manufacturer of these lathes in China. They can be found at I don't know if any US seller re-badges these, but it might be worth an email to the company. I know this site is virtually dedicated to the Seig mini lathe, but for just a little bit more cash you can have one of these. Warco provide all the optional items free, except the Collet Chuck and Collet Holder.

Robin






---------------------------------
New Yahoo! Mail is the ultimate force in competitive emailing. Find out more at the Yahoo! Mail Championships. Plus: play games and win prizes.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Wood Turning Tool Rest

 

Wondered where I can obtain one of these in the UK for a Mini Lathe.
Thanks.
Paul
Re: Warco WM180 manufacturer.

andrew franks
 

Hello, Robin - you stayed up late!
Good research - I had thought our lathes were somehow connected with Seig, because of the similarity in the cross- and top-slides, but that obviously isn't so.
Weiss is German for white, and Sieg is German for victory - the Chinese seem to be attracted to German-sounding trade-names, though someone should have told Sieg that theirs still has overtones from 60-odd years ago.
Like you, I'm pretty happy with my Warco-Weiss, too - it worked well straight from the crate..I think Chris ("Mozziesplat") has just ordered one, too.
Andy

Robin <robandjan@...> wrote:
I have a Warco WM180V 7x12 as does at least one other UK member of this forum. I have had my one for just over a Year and believe it to be a lovely little lathe. Trawling through the Internet I have found the address of the original manufacturer of these lathes in China. They can be found at I don't know if any US seller re-badges these, but it might be worth an email to the company. I know this site is virtually dedicated to the Seig mini lathe, but for just a little bit more cash you can have one of these. Warco provide all the optional items free, except the Collet Chuck and Collet Holder.

Robin






---------------------------------
New Yahoo! Mail is the ultimate force in competitive emailing. Find out more at the Yahoo! Mail Championships. Plus: play games and win prizes.
Re: Tempering

 

Barryvabeach wrote.....Unless your part is very big you should have no problem getting it up to 1550 with a MAPP torch........

Don't forget to surround the part with some heat resisting bricks to make a simple hearth. It concentrates the heat where you want it. I used parts from an old gas fire.
HTH
Ellis
Re: Tempering

 

G'day again John, Gregor.
Your description "If that sounds too rushed a similar technique is to
quench harden the whole end. Clean up in slow time, then wave the flame
gently at the shaft an inch or two back from the tip and watch the
oxides at the tip as the heat flows down the shaft as above. Again,
quench to taste." is the method I described. True, I didn't harden the
whole tool. Applying the second heat so the tip is not over heated is
the key. It works for me.
I down loaded some heat treatment and related stuff from various
sources; as far as I know it is public domian. If you want a copy drop
me an email.

OGTDA

Regards,
Ian
(No subject)

 

On Thursday 22 March 2007 04:31, gregorstransky@... wrote:
I just joined the group. I only recently became interested in home shop
machinery and have been doing some lathe work on my 7x12 Cummins. I plan to
buy a mill in the near future. Does anybody have any experience with the
HarborFreight Micro Mill/Drill that sells for $299?
I've got a Micro Mill converted to CNC and ran it manual for over a year before that
out of the box its a pretty nice machine to work with but its small ,so very small
adding the long table and extended base from LMS kicks it up to a much more
usefull size (more travel and bigger table than the minimill) but it kicks the price up as well
(and you end up with 2/3 of a new machine sitting under the bench)

Brian
--
"Nemo me impune lacesset"
Re: Tempering

 

Hi Gregor, Ian,

I had a really good colour chart in a metalworking text back in
school days but that link's the nearest I've found to it.

What you're trying to do is snap freeze the steel in a particular
state, rendering it ridiculously glass-hard, then re-heat it just
enough to partially reverse the process so it's still hard enough to
be useful without being as brittle as glass. That's my condensed
layman's view of the process.

A useful technique I first learnt from my school metalwork teacher
was to heat the end couple of inches of a screwdriver to cherry red,
quench the end inch or so, give the tip area a quick clean with
emery and then watch the oxide colours as the heat flows into the
tip from the rest of the shaft. Quench to taste.

If that sounds too rushed a similar technique is to quench harden
the whole end. Clean up in slow time, then wave the flame gently at
the shaft an inch or two back from the tip and watch the oxides at
the tip as the heat flows down the shaft as above. Again, quench to
taste.

BTW, "taste" varies with application. A tile scoring scriber can be
pretty hard. If a cold chisel were that hard it may chip in use.
These methods ensure the tip is as hard as you need while the
adjacent shaft is not left glass hard. If you try to do the
tempering process from the tip end you'll likely leave a brittle
glass-hard zone just above the tip.

Grab an old screwdriver and have a play. It all sounds far more
complex than it is until you do it. It can be. Professionally,
programable temperature controlled ovens are used for repeatable
results on large jobs like car leaf springs. But a propane or butane
torch can do pretty well in the backyard shop using nothing more
than the colours and a bucket of water. Just as long as you start
with a tool steel. Mild steel doesn't have the right range of carbon
content (unless you case harden it but that's another subject).

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "steam4ian" <fosterscons@...>
wrote:

G'day Gregor & John.

I seem to have good results heating to dull cherry red and
quenching.
Then cleaning the surface back to bright. Tempering is done by
heating the body of the tool until the it is straw generally and
mauve going towards purple at the tip and then quenching the tip
only. do'nt over heat the tip or it wil be brittle
It has worked marvels on a cheap cold chisel and some spring steel
rod I bought from a model shop.

The colour charts in John's link are most helpful. The whole
process
sounds much more complicated than it realy is, try it. The spring
steel from the model shop is a cheap material for experimentation;
it
is used for aircraft undercarts.

You haven't given the size of the torch. I have used the wok
burner
on the kitchen stove!

One good turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian
Re: Micromill vs Minimill .... was originally (no subject)

cedge11
 

John
Taking into consideration that once you have the mill, you'll
constantly find more things it can do or that you'll want it to do.
I'd probably have to stand by my suggestion. By the time you have a
small machinst vise strapped down to the table with your work material
in place and a collet loaded with an end mill, you'll discover the
available Z axis disappears far too quickly.

I don't want to spend your money for you. I'll just say that even
though I only make parts for small steam engines, I'm already fighting
the temptation to move up to the new X3 Seig to gain a bit more
flexibilty.

Steve
When your favorite tool is a hammer, everything around you looks like
it needs a nail.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@...> wrote:

Hi Steve,

I too have been pondering what size mill would suit my needs. Not
ready to buy yet but gathering info on what to write on my wish
list. Your advice seems fine but relative. What sort (and size) of
jobs are you doing? If a guy only needs to mill work up to 100mm
does that change your advice?

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "cedge11" <cedge@> wrote:

Gregor
The Mini Mill sometimes proves to be a bit cramped for space and
travel. The Micro Mill, which is even smaller, would be very
limiting
in what you would be able to do with it. I'd probably nudge you
toward
the larger Mini Mill just to keep the predictable curses from
scaring
small children. A bit more expense, but it's also a quite bit more
machine.

Steve

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., <gregorstransky@> wrote:

Hi:
I just joined the group. I only recently became interested in
home shop
machinery and have been doing some lathe work on my 7x12
Cummins. I
plan to
buy a mill in the near future. Does anybody have any experience
with
the
HarborFreight Micro Mill/Drill that sells for $299? I already
posted
the
same question to the mini-mill group, but received only a few
responses.
Thank you.
Gregor Stransky, San Antonio, Texas
Re: Tempering

 

G'day Gregor & John.

I seem to have good results heating to dull cherry red and quenching.
Then cleaning the surface back to bright. Tempering is done by
heating the body of the tool until the it is straw generally and
mauve going towards purple at the tip and then quenching the tip
only. do'nt over heat the tip or it wil be brittle
It has worked marvels on a cheap cold chisel and some spring steel
rod I bought from a model shop.

The colour charts in John's link are most helpful. The whole process
sounds much more complicated than it realy is, try it. The spring
steel from the model shop is a cheap material for experimentation; it
is used for aircraft undercarts.

You haven't given the size of the torch. I have used the wok burner
on the kitchen stove!

One good turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian
Re: Homier Lathe Arrived Today !

Mike Payson
 

Works fine for me. It could be something's up with the hosting site,
so I've temporarily mirrored it it on my site,

On 3/22/07, rick201m <rick201m@...> wrote:
I can't seem to open that cheat sheet link....says it
is "stopped" as soon as I open it.

Anyone else have that problem?

Thanks,
Rick in CO


--- Mike Payson <mike@...> wrote:

In case you missed it, Paul Moir posted a useful
cheat sheet today.
What makes it particularly handy is that, in
addition to showing the
appropriate speed for a given material & Diameter,
he gives you a guid
to show approximately what dial position represents
any given speed.
Very useful.



On 3/21/07, Ed <edo@...> wrote:
I order a Homier over the weekend and got it
today! I had planned on
spending the evening cleaning it up, but there was
no red grease to be
found. All the bare metal had a light coat of oil
on it. The back
splash and pan were both dented, but no creases
and I was able to
straighten them out just fine.

Unfortunately, my Enco order won't arrive until
tomorrow so I have no
tools yet (or anything to cut).

I ran it per the instructions to break it in and
realized that 2500
RPM is pretty fast. I was surprised at how quietly
and smoothly it
runs. What speeds are used for cutting aluminum?
steel?
Ed




Be sure to check out
for small mills and
lathes.
Yahoo! Groups Links






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Be sure to check out for small mills and lathes.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: Homier Lathe Arrived Today !

 

I can't seem to open that cheat sheet link....says it
is "stopped" as soon as I open it.

Anyone else have that problem?

Thanks,
Rick in CO


--- Mike Payson <mike@...> wrote:

In case you missed it, Paul Moir posted a useful
cheat sheet today.
What makes it particularly handy is that, in
addition to showing the
appropriate speed for a given material & Diameter,
he gives you a guid
to show approximately what dial position represents
any given speed.
Very useful.



On 3/21/07, Ed <edo@...> wrote:
I order a Homier over the weekend and got it
today! I had planned on
spending the evening cleaning it up, but there was
no red grease to be
found. All the bare metal had a light coat of oil
on it. The back
splash and pan were both dented, but no creases
and I was able to
straighten them out just fine.

Unfortunately, my Enco order won't arrive until
tomorrow so I have no
tools yet (or anything to cut).

I ran it per the instructions to break it in and
realized that 2500
RPM is pretty fast. I was surprised at how quietly
and smoothly it
runs. What speeds are used for cutting aluminum?
steel?
Ed




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for small mills and
lathes.
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