开云体育

hi mark
yeah, good idea building a shed in the back, but...
1. all the way down there? and all night alone by itself?
un huh. had to wait too long to get it.
have to do it here. I'm thinking a full surround, drawers under, turn
just aluminum and very slow and light cuts. probably be awkward, but...
oh well,
thanks for the reply
fri

Group:

Contact information has been added to the first paragraph of the home page. (It can come down as fast as it went up if I start getting a bunch of trash ;) Play nice!

Plan B gib section is totally rewritten as the new gibs are now done, installed and fitted, new photos and text up and running.

Lubrication section has been removed. (May rewrite less wordy latter, maybe)

Now the question is...what next? Apron? Cross slide? Hummmm.

I apologize for the length of time it takes to get all this done. My opportunities to work on this are limited. Am I retired yet? ;)

Regards
Marty

Hi Mike,

And I think you'll find they will happily supply a 6 1/4" face plate
to fit this lathe despite the fact that the guard and associated
kill switch must be removed to use the faceplate. That's what I was
sold to go with my 7x12.

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Mike Payson" <mike@...> wrote:

FYI, I bought the newest incarnation of the HF 7x10 (93212) with

the recent

30% off coupon. It's bad enough that it is 4" shorter then any of

the others

(& two inches shorter then advertised), but it actually only has a

6" usable

swing. I'm not sure if it's standard to all of the 7x's now, but

the HF adds

a chuck saftey shield that is only 3" from the center of the

chuck, so

without removing it, somehow moving your work 3" or so from the

spindle, the

largest work you can possibly turn is 6". I'm taking it back,

though I

haven't yet decided whether to replace it with the Homier, the HF

9x20

(which they will honor the 30% off for, so $560) or the Griz G0602

10x22,

which is really more then I should spend, but a much better (and

better

equipped) lathe.

Decisions, decisons... Any suggestions?

On 3/19/07, Ed <edo@...> wrote:

I just ordered a Homier for which based on my research was the

best

buy I could find. It costs $299 and the only accessory it comes

with

is a fixed center.

Cummins sells the same machine but it comes with extras for

$399. For

the extra $100 you get (1) Tailstock Drill Chuck 1-13mm (with

key, (2)

Moving Steady, (3) Fixed Steady, (4) 6 1/4" diameter Face Plate,

(5) 5

piece cutting tool set. Bought separately, these total $103, so

unless

you need all of them, I didn't see it as worth it.

Homier also sells an Accessory Kit for $99 (which I got for 10%

off at

their eBay store). It includes (1) Tailstock chuck, (2) Face

plate,

(3) Lathe dog, (4) Rolling center, (5) Knurling tool, (6) Follow

rest,

and (7) Spindle center. I figured these would cost $128

separately, so

I thought it a better deal than the Cummins with accessories.

Shipping for the Homier was $6 cheaper ($49 vs $55), but what

really

swayed me to Homier was the customer service. Cummins was real

slow to

answer emails, 3 - 4 days, and never did tell me if the lathe

was in

stock.

I ordered the Homier on-line Friday night when I saw they went

from

Out of Stock to Supplies Limited. I called this morning (Monday)

to

see if they got the order and was told it was being shipped. Got

email

with UPS tracking number this afternoon and it's scheduled for
delivery Wednesday.

If I had the money, my first choice would have been the MicroMark
(82710), $673 delivered. It's 2" longer, has inch lead screws,

and a

digital speed readout.

Other options are the Grizzly (G8688) at $700 delivered (some

think

it's worth it for the better customer service) and Harbor Freight
(33684) which is a 7x10 (2" shorter). It's $419 but is available

in

stores and with a 30% off coupon can be had for $293 + sales

tax. (The

coupons come out every few months.)

Hope this helps, and let us know what you decide.
Ed








Be sure to check out for small

mills and

lathes.
Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

What I didn't say in my previous post was that I had decided the HF
8x12 was probably the best buy, but I just couldn't bring myself to
pay the current price after it had been on sale for $429 for the past
couple of years. If you weren't happy with HF's 7x10, you probably
won't like their 9x20 either - it had some of the worst reviews that I
saw.

Had I not decided to go small (and cheap) at first (with the Homier),
I would have bought the Grizzly 10x22.
Ed

FYI, I bought the newest incarnation of the HF 7x10 (93212) with the recent
30% off coupon. It's bad enough that it is 4" shorter then any of the others
(& two inches shorter then advertised), but it actually only has a 6" usable
swing. I'm not sure if it's standard to all of the 7x's now, but the HF adds
a chuck saftey shield that is only 3" from the center of the chuck, so
without removing it, somehow moving your work 3" or so from the spindle, the
largest work you can possibly turn is 6". I'm taking it back, though I
haven't yet decided whether to replace it with the Homier, the HF 9x20
(which they will honor the 30% off for, so $560) or the Griz G0602 10x22,
which is really more then I should spend, but a much better (and better
equipped) lathe.

Decisions, decisons... Any suggestions?

My (very portable) 3.5x8 baby lathe likes to be near the teapot - in fact, it's on the kitchen table right now, waiting for breakfast and tomorrow's little task. Some weeks, it only moves out on Thursday, so that it doesn't frighten Liz, my cleaner. Its bigger brother has to fend for itself in the workshop.
Wouldn't recommend this if the kitchen was carpeted rather than tiled, though.
Andy

markzemanek <markzemanek@...> wrote:
Where are you going to be using your lathe? NOT in the kitchen, I
hope! <g> Seriously though, you're likely to have swarf everywhere,
and it's a good idea to have a spaced devoted to metalworking.

My enclosure is an 8'x12' shed I built out in my backyard...

I use the chip guard that came standard with my lathe (which is
attached to the backside of the lathe,) but I don't use the chip pan
(the one that goes beneath the lathe) because I have a dedicated space
and my lathe is bolted to my bench for stability.

Some guys don't even bother with the chip guard, but I find that it
helps me contain the swarf a bit, so it makes for easier cleanup.
Still, I find swarf behind the lathe, under the lathe, on the floor,
sometimes in my clothes, shoes, hair, etc.

Best of luck,
Mark

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "fricebe" <fricebe@...> wrote:

hi all
I'm a cliff dweller and have a 7x12 on order. I think I must construct
some sort of enclosure to contain the fly-offs. (have to get along
with the lady that cleans up)
anyone got a design, or just suggestions.....
thanks
FRI

---------------------------------
New Yahoo! Mail is the ultimate force in competitive emailing. Find out more at the Yahoo! Mail Championships. Plus: play games and win prizes.

Hello all, I want to introduce myself. My name is Patrick I'm in
Gaithersburg MD. I joined the group to learn something about mini
machining as I'm a novice.
I have a basic knowledge machining/metal work, and good book collection
which helps. My father was in the tool and die trade and a foreman in a
machine shop before CNC machines arrived sometime in the late 60's early
70's. He left the industry when CNC machines started making it big.
He had the chance to learn CNC, I guess he wasn't interested in it. It
was a shame because I think machining was his passion. He passed
on before I could really learn anything about machining from him.
I have made some small metal parts on a small unimat, but I need a
machine thats a little heavier and stiffer than the unimat.
I want to buy a mini lathe and would like to know what the best ala
round models would be. Most of them on the market are Chinese and some
say there decent machines. I would like to make small gears at some
point. Just one of those things I want to do. I've been reading up on
gear terminology and the math involved.
There's something magical about cutting a part out of a chunk
metal............thanks Pat L.

Sounds like it's time for a CNC conversion on that mill...

I just ordered a Homier for which based on my research was the best
buy I could find. It costs $299 and the only accessory it comes with
is a fixed center.

Cummins sells the same machine but it comes with extras for $399. For
the extra $100 you get (1) Tailstock Drill Chuck 1-13mm (with key, (2)
Moving Steady, (3) Fixed Steady, (4) 6 1/4" diameter Face Plate, (5) 5
piece cutting tool set. Bought separately, these total $103, so unless
you need all of them, I didn't see it as worth it.

Homier also sells an Accessory Kit for $99 (which I got for 10% off at
their eBay store). It includes (1) Tailstock chuck, (2) Face plate,
(3) Lathe dog, (4) Rolling center, (5) Knurling tool, (6) Follow rest,
and (7) Spindle center. I figured these would cost $128 separately, so
I thought it a better deal than the Cummins with accessories.

Shipping for the Homier was $6 cheaper ($49 vs $55), but what really
swayed me to Homier was the customer service. Cummins was real slow to
answer emails, 3 - 4 days, and never did tell me if the lathe was in
stock.

I ordered the Homier on-line Friday night when I saw they went from
Out of Stock to Supplies Limited. I called this morning (Monday) to
see if they got the order and was told it was being shipped. Got email
with UPS tracking number this afternoon and it's scheduled for
delivery Wednesday.

If I had the money, my first choice would have been the MicroMark
(82710), $673 delivered. It's 2" longer, has inch lead screws, and a
digital speed readout.

Other options are the Grizzly (G8688) at $700 delivered (some think
it's worth it for the better customer service) and Harbor Freight
(33684) which is a 7x10 (2" shorter). It's $419 but is available in
stores and with a 30% off coupon can be had for $293 + sales tax. (The
coupons come out every few months.)

Hope this helps, and let us know what you decide.
Ed

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Ellis Cory" <ellis103@...>
wrote:

John wrote......Get the length right. Cut it too short and you'll

have problems ejecting the arbor.......

It is not too difficult to braze a small piece of metal on the end

to make up the difference and it does not have to be cosmetic.

HTH
Ellis



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

...and John repeated: Get the length right. Keep the other suggestions
as fallback options. <G>

Hi Rodney,

Welcome to the vocal minority! <G> Here are some random thoughts.

Firstly, what's the hole in? I'd love to be able to do such holes in
sheet for electrical panels. Many switches and fuse holders are
keyed. Such holes are commonly punched in production. If it's in bar
stock or similar would it be appropriate to drill and then half plug
with a round plug, milled down? Secure with glue, pins, solder, tack
weld or whatever suits the job? Not sure what broaches are
available. In principle that's possible if you can source the tool.
Another possibility is EDM (Electrical Discharge Machining). For
small quantity that's feasible if there's someone locally offering
the service or you want to launch on a new hobby.

I look forward to the voices of experience on this one!

John




--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "hockeylove69"
<hockeylove69@...> wrote:

Hello all,
I have been lerking on the group for about a month now this is my

first

post. I have a HF 7X10 mini and a Grizzly Mini Mill and my main
interest is building model steam engines. However my brother came

to me

the other day wanting me to make a part that has a half round

hole. I

have no idea how to do this. Is there a way to do this with either

my

mill or lathe? Do I need to get a broach set? All the keyway

broach

sets that I have seen make round holes with that square bit in the
middle. Thanks In Advance, I look forward to any help that may be
provided.

Rodney.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "markzemanek"
<markzemanek@...> wrote:

and my lathe is bolted to my bench for stability.

On the subject of stability, I don't recommend the Sieg setup. My
manual said it was preferred to bolt to the bench but they also
supplied rubber feet and bolts for free standing. The free standing
config was a rocking horse. Far too narrow a footprint on the bench.

My very first mod was to install two 220mm lengths of 2"x1" box
section steel as spreaders. I drilled through them to match the chip
tray, then enlarged the lower holes a little bigger than the
supplied screw heads. That allows the original bolts to secure the
box section to the casting through the tray. I bought four new nuts
and bolts to secure the supplied feet near the ends of the box
section. A quick spray of aerosol zinc primer and black paint before
assembly made it look original and the local rubber store even had
the black plastic plugs to tap into the ends of the box section. So
it all looks very original yet it's so rock solid. I'd gain nothing
by bolting it to the bench. When not in use I heave the machine
towards the back of the bench and reclaim the real estate.

John

PS: LMS stock folted spreader bars with a similar purpose. Not as
rugged and I wanted instant stability - not a mail ordered wait
before I could make chips.

Hi FRI,

If you can get the wench to pick up your socks & jocks, you're doing
above average. No way mine's likely to clean up chips and curly
metal swarf too!

Many remove the rear splash guard for improved work access. I
haven't but I'd probably replace it with a sheet of something
further back - to catch flicks of lubricant, etc. I've contemplated
a perspex barrier up front. Sometimes I think a travelling guard on
the toolpost would let me get closer to the work but I'm sure I'd
spend my life cleaning it. I'll stick to safety glasses.

I use a bristle paint brush and dust pan to clean up the bulk of
swarf and finish off with an old vacuum cleaner that sits under the
bench. Wouldn't dare borrow the household one.

I find I can't let the vac pick up much of the curly stuff or I end
up with a curly log jam in the hose which is a monstrous PITA to
clear. What do others do? Are there purpose shop vacs that do this
better?

John

PS: It's not recommended to use compressed air to clean up as it
jams the swarf hard into crevices. Besides, you really can't control
where they go with any accuracy and they won't land in the bin.




--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "fricebe" <fricebe@...> wrote:

hi all
I'm a cliff dweller and have a 7x12 on order. I think I must

construct

some sort of enclosure to contain the fly-offs. (have to get along
with the lady that cleans up)
anyone got a design, or just suggestions.....
thanks
FRI

Where are you going to be using your lathe? NOT in the kitchen, I
hope! <g> Seriously though, you're likely to have swarf everywhere,
and it's a good idea to have a spaced devoted to metalworking.

My enclosure is an 8'x12' shed I built out in my backyard...

I use the chip guard that came standard with my lathe (which is
attached to the backside of the lathe,) but I don't use the chip pan
(the one that goes beneath the lathe) because I have a dedicated space
and my lathe is bolted to my bench for stability.

Some guys don't even bother with the chip guard, but I find that it
helps me contain the swarf a bit, so it makes for easier cleanup.
Still, I find swarf behind the lathe, under the lathe, on the floor,
sometimes in my clothes, shoes, hair, etc.

Best of luck,
Mark

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <jgrounds@...> wrote:

I purchased the wood rest package from LMS also. Most of the time I

put a round bar in the tool post since it is quick and most of the
time I am just putting the final contours on the piece being worked
on. Here is a photo:

In sharing that pix with a friend of mine and after looking over the
chisels Barry pointed me at, the same place had pen kits, something of
casual interest to me.

I was just wondering if the threaded rod in the chuck was a mandrel
for something like that? If not, I'll bet it would work!

Not sure how to drill out the blanks though, a three jaw chuck I don't
think would work.

Jenny gave me a couple pen kits (no wood, but I have some that would
do nicely) and I still have them in the back pocket of my suitcase,
which is sorta the motivation here :).

Thanks for stirring up the gray matter!

Take care, Vikki.

Here in the USA you can buy alum in the spice section of grocery
stores. It works because it's an acid that attacks the steel but
doesn't harm the aluminum. In horological school we used it all the
time to disolve tiny steel screws that had broken off in brass watch
bridges. It works SLOWLY. Generally it would take a full day of
boiling to disolve one tiny screw. You can speed things up by using
sulfuric acid (available locally in concentrated form from most
hardware stores where it is sold as a drain cleaner). It will work
much quicker than alum and won't harm aluminum. Oddly it will work
quicker if cut 50/50 with distilled water. If you have a steel screw
or bit broken off in brass, I would not recomend using sulfuric acid.
It that case you have to stick with with the slower acting alum.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Capt Ken Appleby"
<captkenn@...> wrote:

Hi All,
Thanks for all the help youi gave me on these two matters - I have
resolved the casting problem by getting replacements. Alum is a bit
hard to find here!

I managed to get good service from Machine Mart to put the lathe
right, although a couple of items I asked for (like drive belts) are
out of stock till next year

But at least I am back in business again (:o)
Regards
Ken

--- In 7x12minilathe@y..., "david" <davidalan@l...> wrote:

for spare parts i ring the machine mart parts line, pay by switch

and take

delivery via post. always had good service and plenty of help
DAVID WILLIAMS
BOLTON
ENGLAND
davidalan@l...
l

John wrote......Get the length right. Cut it too short and you'll have problems ejecting the arbor.......

It is not too difficult to braze a small piece of metal on the end to make up the difference and it does not have to be cosmetic.
HTH
Ellis

Hello all,
I have been lerking on the group for about a month now this is my first
post. I have a HF 7X10 mini and a Grizzly Mini Mill and my main
interest is building model steam engines. However my brother came to me
the other day wanting me to make a part that has a half round hole. I
have no idea how to do this. Is there a way to do this with either my
mill or lathe? Do I need to get a broach set? All the keyway broach
sets that I have seen make round holes with that square bit in the
middle. Thanks In Advance, I look forward to any help that may be
provided.

Rodney.

Another thing: My tail stock chuck will not eject. It's too short. I
note others are cutting them shorter. Hmmmmm?
I just stick a wrench between the chuck and the tail stock frame as a
wedge and eject it that way. David

Several of my MT-2s that I shortened a little too aggressively have a
aluminium disc epoxied to the end to make them eject. I used one of
those "cold weld" type super epoxies but I'm sure anything will work.
Naturally the ends were clean & serrated since they were freshly ground.

Might be worth the bother some evening?

hi all
I'm a cliff dweller and have a 7x12 on order. I think I must construct
some sort of enclosure to contain the fly-offs. (have to get along
with the lady that cleans up)
anyone got a design, or just suggestions.....
thanks
FRI