开云体育

Pete, I am switching to a standard sized holder ( I bought it last
night at Radio Shack ) because the standard size is much cheaper and
easier to find - even the Home Depot has them. Barry



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Pete Lilja" <plilja@...> wrote:

Thanks, all, again.

I just got back from Radio Shack with a pack of the metric GMA

fuses. I did that in the interest of time and wanting to get turning
again. However, an inch sized fuse holder with a fast-blow, 5 amp
fuse will go in ASAP. I like fiddlin' with stuff anyway. And it
makes more sense to use fuses that are more widely available, IMO.

Pete

----- Original Message -----
From: nyceacres200
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Friday, March 09, 2007 6:50 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Mini-Lathe Fuse


---Pete,

Fast blow 1-1/4"X1/4". Check your machine, either 3A or 5A.

Holders

and fuses available at Radio Shack, or any elect. supply, or good
hardware store, maybe even HD or Lowes. The hole in the control

box

cover has to be enlarged slightly to fit the new holder. I used a
unibit. Just be careful not to crack the plastic. Solder on the
wires to the new holder, and you're done. 1/2 hour, tops.

Frank

In 7x12minilathe@..., "Pete Lilja" <plilja@> wrote:
>
> Excellent ideas - especially to all that suggested I change the
fuse holder. Seems easy enough.
>
> Mine is a 5 amp GMA. Are these fuses fast blow, slow blow or
somewhere in betwixt? 8-)
>
> Which American style fuse should I use? Or does it matter?
>
> I didn't know there were metric fuses until this came up.
>
> Pete
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thanks all specially the responsive guys here.

My thanks and let to know the URL to go for
mlathe (mod at YahooGroups.com)



I got it with the best tool around : Google ! :)

Again:


Bests,

Veni

Re: Norton gearbox ?
Re:_ Posted by: "uhrgerat" uhrgerat@...
uhrgerat

Fri Mar 9, 2007 8:21 am (PST)

Veni,

I you want to make a QC box, I believe there are
plans on the mlathemods group.


Jim B.

--- born4something <ajs@ecoustics. com.au> wrote:

Hi Veni,

The common mini-lathe has manual change gears

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around

I got some at radio shack about a year ago--- In
7x12minilathe@..., "nyceacres200" <nyceacres200@...>
wrote:

--Hi Pete,
Not sure where you can get fuses, other than micro mark or LMS,

but

they're probably available. What I wanted to say though, is you
might want to consider changing the fuse holder to a better one

that

takes standard size fuses. I had problems with my lathe shutting

off

occaisionally, and traced it to the fuse holder. It had actually
split in half! It's a real piece of junk! I put in a standard one

of

much higher quality and the fuse issue was solved. To me the stock
one is so bad, it could almost be dangerous! Good luck.

Frank

- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Pete Lilja" <plilja@> wrote:

Uh-Oh, I was finally playing with my newly purchased used Micro-

Mark 7 x 14 and popped a fuse. No big deal, methinks, and I

stopped

at the local Ace Hardware to get another. Much to my chagrine they
didn't have a similarly sized fuse.

So, what is the deal on these fuses? Are they a rare find or can

I get them locally?

Thanks,

Pete

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thanks, all, again.

I just got back from Radio Shack with a pack of the metric GMA fuses. I did that in the interest of time and wanting to get turning again. However, an inch sized fuse holder with a fast-blow, 5 amp fuse will go in ASAP. I like fiddlin' with stuff anyway. And it makes more sense to use fuses that are more widely available, IMO.

Pete

G'day Paul.
Things to make? I notice you include "wireless" in your handle. What
push me over the edge to get a lathe was visiting a guy who makes
reproduction antique radios. He had been turning knobs on his drill
press and was complaining about the price of terminals he had
purchased! I thought what an opportunity to make these up. I was
into "radio/electronics" myself until I got sick of not seeing where
the smoke was coming from.
I still haven't made any terminals but I have made attachments for
the lathe, bushes for my grandson's trike and 1 & 3/4 steamengines.
I have rekindled old skills and am meeting new collegues through this
and kindered groups. I keep talking about joining a local society of
Model Engineers but I spend so much time in the workshop that I
haven't time

As Bill says, "a lathe is just a tool". I get a little frustrated by
those who seem to spend so much effort working it up to get to a
state of perceived perfection (the zero backlash fraternity) which in
many cases would outstrip their machining skills. More inaccuracies
creep into a project through the setting out than from the machine.
Mind you any thing you do improves your skill level.

If you can't find a need for a lathe, DON'T BUY ONE, give the money
to a charity that could give some poor seamstress in a 3rd world
country a ssewing machine or a pedal rickshaw to a breadwinner in
India.

Have fun, but make a difference.

One good turn deserves another.
Regards
Ian

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Bill Johnston" <johnston@...>
wrote:

This is a great opportunity to express an opinion that has been
building up ... (subject to other's differing opinion, of course).

Working on the mini-lathe (even metal working) is not a hobby!

How's

that? What I find is that the people that seem most satisified

with

the mini-lathe (mill too for that matter) are people that have a

hobby

already and see the mini-lathe as a tool to fulfill that hobby.
People that buy the lathe and than say, "What can I do with it?",

will

be unfilled until they get another hobby.

I got the mini-lathe and micro-mill to make woodworking tools and
woodworking accessories (knobs & pulls, for example). Woodworking

is

my hobby. But brass with the wood sure adds to the woodworking
project.

I bet just about everyone of you out there have another hobby that

the

mini-lathe is used to enhance. Let's hear what they are!

Here's what worked for me. I used the lathe first to make

accessories

for the lathe. That way I learned how it worked. I started

learning

how to use a file. I spent a lot of time learning how to use a tap
and die (not with the lathe). Than I started reviewing a lot of
pictures of antique hand tools and picking out what I could make

with

emphasis on tools that I could use first and nice second.

I'd say if you want to make gifts, start looking at gifts, in
catalogues, stores, kitchen stores, etc. and see what you can

make.

Another idea, get some metal. Nothing like some brass bar stock
(expensive), some drill rod in a variety of sizes, and some brass
round stock in a variety of diameters to give you some ideas.

Those

ideas disappear quickly when you don't have materials.

Also, consider, if you like woodworking, to add some brass to small
pieces of expensive wood to make a project.

Good luck!




--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "wireless_paul" <paul@> wrote:

Hello.
Wondered if there were any books or Web pages with

suggestions/plans

for things to make on the metal working lathe. I know you can

make

model engines and tools etc, but was thinking more in terms of
household items or items you could give as presents.
Paul

---Pete,

Fast blow 1-1/4"X1/4". Check your machine, either 3A or 5A. Holders
and fuses available at Radio Shack, or any elect. supply, or good
hardware store, maybe even HD or Lowes. The hole in the control box
cover has to be enlarged slightly to fit the new holder. I used a
unibit. Just be careful not to crack the plastic. Solder on the
wires to the new holder, and you're done. 1/2 hour, tops.

Frank

In 7x12minilathe@..., "Pete Lilja" <plilja@...> wrote:

Excellent ideas - especially to all that suggested I change the

fuse holder. Seems easy enough.

Mine is a 5 amp GMA. Are these fuses fast blow, slow blow or

somewhere in betwixt? 8-)

Which American style fuse should I use? Or does it matter?

I didn't know there were metric fuses until this came up.

Pete

Excellent ideas - especially to all that suggested I change the fuse holder. Seems easy enough.

Mine is a 5 amp GMA. Are these fuses fast blow, slow blow or somewhere in betwixt? 8-)

Which American style fuse should I use? Or does it matter?

I didn't know there were metric fuses until this came up.

Pete

Rare is in the eye (or country) of the beholder :-)

The fuse is type M205 or alternatively GMA -- metric fuses, if you
can believe that. You can find them easily with Google but may get
hit with a minimum order size. In the US the 3AG type fuse is more
common so you could change the holder to accept these.

Some lathes use 3.15A fuses but most now use 5A. Check the fuse you
removed, it should have the rating on it.


John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Pete Lilja" <plilja@...> wrote:

Uh-Oh, I was finally playing with my newly purchased used Micro-Mark

7 x 14 and popped a fuse. No big deal, methinks, and I stopped at the
local Ace Hardware to get another. Much to my chagrine they didn't
have a similarly sized fuse.

So, what is the deal on these fuses? Are they a rare find or can I

get them locally?

Thanks,

Pete

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

On 3/9/07, ckinzer@... <ckinzer@...> wrote:

I always thought a machined chess set could be nice. And something
that non machining and non techno people would also enjoy looking at.
It could even be viewed as an heirloom.

My family has a spending limit on Christmas gifts, so last time I made
some ballpoint pens out of stainless and brass.

The fun part is designing the click-click mechanism. I did it a
little differently on each one.

Regards,
Mark
markrages@gmail
--
You think that it is a secret, but it never has been one.
- fortune cookie

Hi Pete,

You might be able to find them at Radio Shack I would think. Give
them a try. (I have no commercial relation to Radio Shack)

Good luck,
Mark

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Pete Lilja" <plilja@...> wrote:

So, what is the deal on these fuses? Are they a rare find or can I

get them locally?

I always thought a machined chess set could be nice. And something
that non machining and non techno people would also enjoy looking at.
It could even be viewed as an heirloom.

I don't know if any plans exist for machining one, but Shopsmith has
plans for a wood set. Of course, it's much easier to do the more free
form work in wood, but given enough time, I think some very nice
pieces could be made out of a couple of nice looking polished metals
like perhaps aluminum and brass (or maybe bronze).

Here is the Shopsmith page with the plan offer. Click on the places
in the "index" box to see some simple drawings of the pieces.



Of course, if you have CNC you have some advantages.

I notice this place that talks about such a project out of different
transparent color plastic...



Here is a concept with fairly simple designs…



Better yet, someone could design their own that lend themselves to mostly conventional machining activities, but perhaps still look
interesting if the design is clever enough.

A friend of mine who taught high school industrial arts had a nifty
aluminum lighthouse project the class members would make. It had a
base and a tapered body and some sort of interesting treatment at the
top (maybe a little castle-like). The project involved scoring and
serrating the body in a fashion so it looked like individual stones.
Again, it's something that looks nice just sitting around as something
decorative. I called him and he will see if he still has the plans
for this or anything else.

Chuck K.

Quoting Bill Johnston <johnston@...>:

Can anyone tell me what size i.d./o.d. sealed ball bearings and allen
head bolts to use to do the steady rest ball bearing mod? I see all
sorts of sizes available on eBay. thanks, Herb W.

--Hi Pete,
Not sure where you can get fuses, other than micro mark or LMS, but
they're probably available. What I wanted to say though, is you
might want to consider changing the fuse holder to a better one that
takes standard size fuses. I had problems with my lathe shutting off
occaisionally, and traced it to the fuse holder. It had actually
split in half! It's a real piece of junk! I put in a standard one of
much higher quality and the fuse issue was solved. To me the stock
one is so bad, it could almost be dangerous! Good luck.

Frank

- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Pete Lilja" <plilja@...> wrote:

Uh-Oh, I was finally playing with my newly purchased used Micro-

Mark 7 x 14 and popped a fuse. No big deal, methinks, and I stopped
at the local Ace Hardware to get another. Much to my chagrine they
didn't have a similarly sized fuse.

So, what is the deal on these fuses? Are they a rare find or can

I get them locally?

Thanks,

Pete

Hi Chris,

Heee - I got a bite!

No offence intended 'bout the cattle. I always figured the small one
had to be compat. But what's this about LMS fallibility! I never
factored that into my thinking!

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Chris Wood" <chrisw@...>
wrote:

OK, OK! The smaller knurler is now officially compatible with the

mini

lathe.
When looking for the true meaning of deep questions like this, you

guys

have to factor in the fallibility of LittleMachineShop.com.

Regards,
Chris Wood

LittleMachineShop.com <>
The premier source of parts and accessories for mini lathes and

mini

mills.
396 W. Washington Blvd. #500, Pasadena, CA 91103
(800)981-9663 * Fax (626)797-7934


________________________________

From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of born4something
Sent: Friday, March 09, 2007 1:48 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Buying & Using a Knurler



Hi Gerry,

Thanks for confirming that bit about being assertive.

Interestingly,

while LMS doesn't list the smaller tool as suitable for the 7x,

they

do list the 9x as compatible. As a friend of mine would say in a
dead pan serious voice, there are some strange cattle on them

there

hills.

John

--- In 7x12minilathe@...
<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com> , "gerry waclawiak"
<gerrywac@> wrote:

Hi John,

I forgot to mention the one about the diameter, and you are

right

that you

need to crank the knob up tight to get the tool to bite and then

follow the

knurl.

THe smaller one does fit the 7x, I've had one for a couple of

years and it

works fine. I have no doubt that the slightly bigger offering

from

LMS will

be good too and as you say when you take the other knurls into

account it is

still good value. You pays your money.......

regards

gerry
Leeds UK

From: "born4something" <ajs@>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...

<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>

To: 7x12minilathe@...

<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>

Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Buying & Using a Knurler
Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2007 23:52:44 -0000

Hi Rance, Gerry,

The other snippet I picked up somewhere in my reading is that

you

shouldn't be too timid when starting the knurl. As the initial
imprints come around again the knurl teeth need to slide into

the

previous imprints. To aid that you need plenty of lube. You

should

also make the OD a multiple of the knurler pitch to help the

pattern

synch up. Being timid and starting really lightly is the best

way

to

prevent that synch-up process.

Note that's all head knowledge from my reading. I wasn't told

about

these tips when I did metalwork at high school 35 years ago and

I

recall I had problems with double imprints. My new scissor

knurler

is somewhere over the Pacific Ocean in transit to Australia as I
type. I bought the larger LMS offering. The LMS site doesn't

list

the smaller one as suiting a 7X. I'm confident it would. Chris

at

LMS recommended the larger one - admitting it was his design -

and I

figured it was about the same price as the smaller one by the

time

you factor in the cost of the 3 sets of wheels it comes with.

Hope that's helpful,
John






--- In 7x12minilathe@...

<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com> , "gerry waclawiak"

<gerrywac@> wrote:

Rance,

without doubt i would say that the scissor type is the only

way to

go with

the mini-lathe because the machine is so light and flexible

(compared with

larger and industrial types). The scissor action means that

most

of the

forces stay in the tool and are not transferred to the

spindle,

bearings

,slides etc.

Although it would be a relatively easy project I would

suggest

that you have

done and buy a small scissor knurler as I did.

The one I bought here in the UK looks amazingly like

(identical

even) the

smaller of the ones that www.littlemachineshop.com do.

I have had mine for about 3 years and it has been fine for

everything I have

needed which has ranged from 3/16" lockscrew though various

knobs

up to 1

1/2" knobs and hammer and screwdriver shafts mainly on ally

and

brass. Finer

knurl wheels might be preferable if you are down at 1/8" or

so

but

all my

results have been good, certainly I don't think you would be

disappointed

with it.

There is nothing particularly hard about knurling just align

throught the

centre of your work, tighten the knob, select slow speed and

apply

plenty of

cutting oil and just tighten up and keep applying oil as you

go

until you

get the knurl depth you need. If you are knurling a shaft

just

slowly

traverse the carriage from end to end as you go tightening

form

time to time

at either of the ends.

If you want an article might I suggest that you subscribe to

the

premium

content of frank hoose's www.mini-lathe.com site which covers

basic lathe

operation and some neat starter project in plenty of words

and

pics and

idealfor a newbie to the minis. I subscribed when I got my

lathe 3

years

since and thought it was probably one of the best $25 I have

spent.

No connection with either of these sites, just pleased that

they

are there

for us mini-lathe types.

Gerry
leeds UK

From: "rancerupp" <rupps@>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...

<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>

To: 7x12minilathe@...

<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>

Subject: [7x12minilathe] Buying & Using a Knurler
Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2007 12:43:20 -0000

Gerry, others,

So what should I look for in a knurler? Buy just the knurls

and

make my

own mount or buy the whole tool? Seems to me that buying the

whole tool

would be best. Do I really need multiple tpi knurls? I'm

just

a

beginner so I can't imagine needing more than just

the 'average'

knurled knob.

Any articles on how to use a knurler? Which type (sissor vs.

fixed)

would be best for a beginner? Thanks.

Rance


RE: [7x12minilathe] Re: Way Wear, Hard Gibs

I have the scissor type and apart from the physical

restriction

on what

you can knurl due to the throat they have worked very well

for

me. Mine

will take just under 2" and in reality this has not proved a

problem

for the type of stuff i do.

Gerry
leeds UK

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<>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

G'day Rance.
IMHO and my experience I would use HSS paricularly as you intend to
work mainly with brass.
First you must get an bench grinder, 6 inch wheels as a minimum.
Then get some key stock or square bar stock the size of you tool
steel eg 3/8 square and practice grinding the different tool shapes.
The MS stock is easier to grind than HSS and provides good practice
and builds confidence. This is how I was instructed in the training
shop; here we used HSS to cut really tough forged steel.

Then get some HSS blanks, these can be obtained quite cheaply on eBay
etc and grind up your own tools.
My most used tools are a LH roughing tool and a round nosed tool
which cuts both ways.

I find an angle grinder good for removing a lot of tool steel, you
also need a water spray bottle to cool the tool as you cut e.g. cut-
spray-cut-spray. The cutting edge is then brought up on the bench
grinder.
I use an oil stone to bring a good edge.

Whilst you can grind a parting tool from HSS blanks it is better to
get a holder with a thin blade to suit, you get thinner partings,
less stress on lathe, less wastage.

The only carbide tool I use is a threading tool, I bought it because
it was comparatively cheap from a local source.

I hope this adds to the confusion!
One good turn deserves another.

Regards,
Ian.


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" <rupps@...> wrote:

I'm looking for accessories in anticipation of my 8x12 HF purchase.

I thought Carbide would be better but HSS seems to cost more. Why?

And

which one should I opt for? To tell you the truth, I'm thinking

that

the inserts would be the best route. But picking the right ones out
seems to be a nightmare.

I expect I'll be turning mostly alum. but also brass, copper, and a
little bit of steel.

Rance

No need, you can get the PDF from the inventor of the gearbox himself.
Richard posts here from time to time and has a web site with a number
of interesting items.



Consider carefully before building a quick change gearbox for the
lathe. Most lathes with a gearbox offer additional gears to allow
handling unusual threads. Plus, they often have additional gears and
sometimes a special banjo to accommodate metric/imperial depending on
the lathe's native system.

Richard also provides plans for a fine feed module (see the 7x12 Files
section) and for a banjo that simplifies setting up gears for
threading. Rather than making a gearbox, consider making a fine feed
and several banjos, one for each thread you commonly cut. (Assuming
the simpler setup afforded by Richard's banjo isn't sufficient.) My
approach is to use one banjo and try to use 32 tpi for most things I
build - I do change the banjo's setup but not frequently. Of course,
threading isn't a daily activity in my shop so your needs may differ.

Martin Cleeve, who wrote the book on threading, seems to consider a
gearbox a limitation rather than a feature...


John

G'day rance.
All you have been told so far is sound, if perhaps confusing.
IMHO; chuck selection will depend on what stock you get. Round and hex
stock only needs a 3 jaw self centering chuck, it will be the most
convenient and have semi permanent residence on the lathe. You can even
off set pieces for eccentric turning by means of packers.
But soon you will need to face or bore an odd shaped piece, then its 4
jaw chuck time or even use a face plate. Ive had my lathe 10 months and
haven't used the face plate yet but they are cheap and just worth
having. You can get by with only a 4 jaw chuck but each job has to be
set up rather than just thrown in the 3 jaw SC chuck. You will need a
dial indicator and magnetic stand. If you are really clever you can use
the cross slide and shims (cigarette papers) to get the work centred.
Get the biggest chuck/s you can afford and swing in the lathe, remember
the jaws sometimes extend beyond the perimeter of the chuck.

You will need chuck and arbor for the tail stock, even if only to drill
centre holes; this also means centre drill bits.

You will be a centre for the tail stock as a minimum. A live centre is
not essential, you just need high pressure molibdenum grease.

I'll make some comments about tooling in a following post.

One good turn deserves another.
Regards
Ian.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" <rupps@...> wrote:

I'm looking for accessories in anticipation of my 8x12 HF purchase.

There are so many chucks to choose from. 3", 4", 5", self centering

or

independetent jaws. In my limited knowledge, I expect that

independent

jaws is what I want. Should I get the biggest that my lathe & pocket
book can handle? Price IS a consideration to me. Any recommendations
for a 5" (specific part #'s please)? Thanks. :)

Rance

This is a great opportunity to express an opinion that has been
building up ... (subject to other's differing opinion, of course).

Working on the mini-lathe (even metal working) is not a hobby! How's
that? What I find is that the people that seem most satisified with
the mini-lathe (mill too for that matter) are people that have a hobby
already and see the mini-lathe as a tool to fulfill that hobby.
People that buy the lathe and than say, "What can I do with it?", will
be unfilled until they get another hobby.

I got the mini-lathe and micro-mill to make woodworking tools and
woodworking accessories (knobs & pulls, for example). Woodworking is
my hobby. But brass with the wood sure adds to the woodworking
project.

I bet just about everyone of you out there have another hobby that the
mini-lathe is used to enhance. Let's hear what they are!

Here's what worked for me. I used the lathe first to make accessories
for the lathe. That way I learned how it worked. I started learning
how to use a file. I spent a lot of time learning how to use a tap
and die (not with the lathe). Than I started reviewing a lot of
pictures of antique hand tools and picking out what I could make with
emphasis on tools that I could use first and nice second.

I'd say if you want to make gifts, start looking at gifts, in
catalogues, stores, kitchen stores, etc. and see what you can make.

Another idea, get some metal. Nothing like some brass bar stock
(expensive), some drill rod in a variety of sizes, and some brass
round stock in a variety of diameters to give you some ideas. Those
ideas disappear quickly when you don't have materials.

Also, consider, if you like woodworking, to add some brass to small
pieces of expensive wood to make a project.

Good luck!

please give more details ...
How do I find "mlathemods group"

thanks


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., uhrgerat <uhrgerat@...> wrote:

Veni,
I you want to make a QC box, I believe there are
plans on the mlathemods group.

Jim B.
--- born4something <ajs@...> wrote:

Hi Veni,

The common mini-lathe has manual change gears
on the end of the
headstock. You either look up a table of thread
pitches to determine
which gears are needed or do your own working
out on the back of an
envelope. I do both. Only the most common
pitches are in the table.
There are also software utilities around that
will give you all the
permutations.

The lathes come with a selection of these
change gears. If you're buying
a mini-lathe specifically for thread cutting be
sure to buy an imperial
lathe for imperial threads or a metric one for
metric threads. Not that
that totally limits you to one. Unless
threading over a long length you
can usually get away with a thread within a
couple of percent. Or if
you're really after an accurate thread,
conversion kits aren't overly
expensive. I think LMS
(www.littlemachineshop.com
<> ) want about
$40 for a leadscrew &
threading dial kit and another $30 for a
complete set of change gears.
They also sell the change gears individually if
there's a special combo
you need.

John




--- In 7x12minilathe@...,
"veniaver2006@"
<veniaver2006@> wrote:

Hi,

I'm newebie and wonder if this minilathe

carries a

NORTON gearbox.

It's for doing threads, so if an alternative

method

let this minilathe get that, it would be OK.

I've been told that if done that this kinda

minilathe

get the job done thru a set of gears and

still getting

same results.

Intend to get a 3/4 " BCP thread within a PVC

dado.

That PVC female thread should match a 3/4"

std piece

of plastic pipe (cold water type) cutted to a

lenght

of 1 1/4" .

Hope your hints.

Bests,

Veni

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with the Yahoo! Search weather shortcut.

Uh-Oh, I was finally playing with my newly purchased used Micro-Mark 7 x 14 and popped a fuse. No big deal, methinks, and I stopped at the local Ace Hardware to get another. Much to my chagrine they didn't have a similarly sized fuse.

So, what is the deal on these fuses? Are they a rare find or can I get them locally?

Thanks,

Pete