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boring
hanley_gerald
I am working my way through my first project and and have been boring
an aluminum engine cylinder. The resulting hole is smaller (0.010+) at the tailstock end. I've read about boring bar "springing" and have been careful to try to avoid this. Any suggestions about alignment issues or technique I may be overlooking. Thanks. Gerry |
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Re: 1st microwave to tear apart
Have a look here:
Like the article says, their should be a bleeder on the capacitor to render it safe, but it can fail and there's no way for most to safely test the capacitor to see if it's drained. Microwave's main transformers usually have their secondary winding separate from their primary. For *repurposing*, this is a great benefit as the fairly useless 2000v winding can be removed and replaced with a lower voltage one easily. |
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1st microwave to tear apart
I got a free microwave and want to take it apart but
need to be sure i do it safely. Have heard about the residual build up of voltage in the capacitor. Can someone give me a procedure to properly discharge it so I can begin? Any other things to watch out for? Thanks very mcuh, Rick in CO ____________________________________________________________________________________ No need to miss a message. Get email on-the-go with Yahoo! Mail for Mobile. Get started. |
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Re: Carbide Insert Nomenclature?
Paul,
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Don't think any of us can find the file. What's the Yahoo Group name? Rance --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "paul_probus" <paul_probus@> |
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Re: Carbide Insert Nomenclature?
"Document not found"
Brewster --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "paul_probus" <paul_probus@...> wrote: <paul_probus@> towrote: here,join before you can see it. Sorry, I would have uploaded itotherbut like I said earlier... |
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Re: Carbide Insert Nomenclature?
They're welcome to it. I leached it from MSC's website,
originally. Paul --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" <rupps@...> wrote: section? :) Thanks for considering my request.here, otherbut like I said earlier... thekinds of inserts), but it should give you a good reference for majority of the inserts made. |
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Re: Carbide Insert Nomenclature?
If you're a member, it should bring you right to the link, like it
did for me (I just tried it right before posting). For non-members it should take people to the group's homepage and inform them that they need to be members to view the file, at least that's what I get with links to files in groups that I'm not a member of. If you're not getting either of those, there must be something interfering with your ability to go to that link. Perhaps the server was busy? Paul --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Charles E. Kinzer" <ckinzer@...> wrote: here, but like I said earlier...other kinds of inserts), but it should give you a good reference forthe majority of the inserts made.9X20 > design. Gadgetbuilder has one he made on his site as well. Inask for ordoesn't > specify. I know I want something that doesn't require anangled holder,would bebrass, and thedesignations meanthem? > After looking around, I haven't had much luck. Besides, theanything but |
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Re: Carbide Insert Nomenclature?
Charles E. Kinzer
I'm getting a "web page not found" for that link. ???
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Chuck K. ----- Original Message -----
From: paul_probus To: 7x12minilathe@... Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 5:42 AM Subject: [SPAM] [7x12minilathe] Re: Carbide Insert Nomenclature? Here is a link, since I could not upload a file into the Files section of the group. It is one of my groups and you'll have to join before you can see it. Sorry, I would have uploaded it here, but like I said earlier... It may not be the most up-to-date (if they've come up with any other kinds of inserts), but it should give you a good reference for the majority of the inserts made. Paul --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "clypeaster55" <clypeaster55@...> wrote: > > I am going to build a ball/radius cutter similar to Bedair's 9X20 > design. Gadgetbuilder has one he made on his site as well. In gathering > the materials, it occured to me that I have no idea what to ask for or > order when it comes to the carbide insert. Gadgetbuilder uses a "TNMG"? > insert, which he says needs a 5 degree titl, and Bedair's doesn't > specify. I know I want something that doesn't require an angled holder, > since I would like to get a few of these to experiment with (making my > own holders, thread tools, etc.). Keeps things nice and simple (for me, > that's a good thing!). I would however, like an insert that would be > good for general use with a variety of metals (CS, 6061, brass, and the > occaisional SS). > > So... my real question is, what do all these "Txxx" designations mean > and where can I find a simple explanation of the types and > nomenclature? Can you buy the screws they need together with them? > After looking around, I haven't had much luck. Besides, the only "T" > codes I know about is "TGIF", and I don't think that cuts anything but > the end of the week! At least it only comes in one size though! > > Any advice is MUCH appreciated. > |
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Re: Carbide Insert Nomenclature?
Maybe one of the mods. could upload it here in our files section? :)
Thanks for considering my request. --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "paul_probus" <paul_probus@...> wrote:
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Re: Carbide Insert Nomenclature?
You guys are the best! Thanks everyone for sharing. I like to study,
and this gives me lots of information to get going with. --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "paul_probus" <paul_probus@...> wrote: one I offered up. I think the magic page issimplefor Indexable Inserts" at: (forthough!me,would > |
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Re: Carbide Insert Nomenclature?
The link to the "cheat sheet" I posted is far handier and easier to
follow, IMHO. Paul --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Charles E. Kinzer" <ckinzer@...> wrote: I offered up. I think the magic page is for Indexable Inserts" at: which has a very nice description of things that gets into a lot of fine detail. It's probably worth printing out and keeping handy with the catalogs. their drop down boxes that relates to the letters (like "TNMG") and put it below in case anyone finds it helpful in this forum in this form. Or in this form in this forum. the styles are what was on the site and are not typos. between a TNMG and a TPG insert nomenclature. They frequently have some good deals on "surplus"9X20 > design. Gadgetbuilder has one he made on his site as well. Inask for ordoesn't > specify. I know I want something that doesn't require anangled holder,(making my(for me,would bebrass, and thedesignations meanthem? > After looking around, I haven't had much luck. Besides, theanything but |
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Re: Carbide Insert Nomenclature?
Here is a link, since I could not upload a file into the Files
section of the group. It is one of my groups and you'll have to join before you can see it. Sorry, I would have uploaded it here, but like I said earlier... It may not be the most up-to-date (if they've come up with any other kinds of inserts), but it should give you a good reference for the majority of the inserts made. Paul --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "clypeaster55" <clypeaster55@...> wrote: gathering the materials, it occured to me that I have no idea what to askfor or order when it comes to the carbide insert. Gadgetbuilder usesa "TNMG"? insert, which he says needs a 5 degree titl, and Bedair's doesn'tholder, since I would like to get a few of these to experiment with(making my own holders, thread tools, etc.). Keeps things nice and simple(for me, that's a good thing!). I would however, like an insert that wouldbe good for general use with a variety of metals (CS, 6061, brass,and the occaisional SS).mean and where can I find a simple explanation of the types andonly "T" codes I know about is "TGIF", and I don't think that cuts anythingbut the end of the week! At least it only comes in one size though! |
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Re: Way Wear, Hard Gibs
Marty N
It's an Albion box for an Enfield Mike.
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----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Taglieri To: 7x12minilathe@... Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 1:56 AM Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Way Wear, Hard Gibs Marty, what's the vehicle that your "gearbox of English design from the 40's" is used in? I have a similar English design (from the 30's) on my Norton Commando motorcycle. It has worked fine for 2 decades with occasional loving care despite being on a bike that puts out far more horsepower than it was designed for, and it also uses a shaft within a shaft, which put the input shaft from the engine on the same side as the output shaft to the rear wheel so manufacturers could add gearboxes to bikes that previously didn't have them. However, the Norton gearbox design has replaceable bronze bushings inside the outer shaft so the inner one doesn't wear significantly (and custom bushings made on a minilathe can solve the problem if it does). I'm surprised that the design of yours had steel rubbing on steel. A steel gib rubbing against a cast iron bed (which is porous and tends to soak up oil) isn't going to have significant wear, but a steel shaft turning at several thousand RPM inside another steel shaft seems like a pretty clueless design. Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@... Everyone has his reasons. - Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game" On Tue, 6 Mar 2007 22:16:37 -0600 "Marty N" <martyn@...> writes: > How about we leave it at this..."everyone has his reasons". ;) > > Everyone's needs, abilities, wishes and ideas will differ and > perhaps there is no "holly grail" of gibs or any other part for that > matter. Thing is that I've just never experienced a single case in > the world of mechanical devices where attention to what seems like > the trivial pursuits of overly complex to others, excellence to me, > hasn't paid me back in triple with results. > > Unrelated example. I have a gearbox of English design from the 40's > that uses a stacked shaft arrangement, shaft within a shaft. I was > going threw these at a rate of about 2500 miles per shaft. They were > made from 1045 and through hardened but the finish was rougher than > what you see today and the clearance sloppy but by design but to > print and it used "00" grease as a lubricant. I had the outer shaft > honed "round", something it wasn't before, and smooth, 20 Ra. Then > had the inner shaft ground round and hard chromed then reground for > a clearance of .0015". stock was about .008" average. I switched > lubricants to a polyol ester oil..Redline Shock Proof Heavy. > Everybody and there brother told me that I fit it too tight, > finished it too smooth, lubricant was too light, chrome wouldn't > hold up and was too hard and would abrade the untreated inner shaft > and so on and so on. That was in 2002 and the box hasn't been apart > since. It also does something it never did before, shift cleanly. > Project cost me about $100 in services and parts. Each broken or > seized shaft set cost me that much every few months before that and > meant weeks of down time each and every go at it. |
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Re: Way Wear, Hard Gibs
Hi Mike,
Yep, I think you've established the rear slide wears most but not rapidly. I'm still planning to shim & lap my original slides like you. I did forget the other major source of lifting forces on that back slide - a traditional knurling tool being pressed into the work via toolpost pressure. I take it you don't use one of those. :-) John --- In 7x12minilathe@..., Michael Taglieri <miket-- nyc@...> wrote: usually Gravitywhile using a milling adapter with the carriage stationary. of theworks the other way.Actually, this isn't quite true. There's a force lifting the rear carriage whenever the tool is cutting the outside of the work(i.e., not when making a facing cut). Therefore, you should expect the rearto wear more than the front on the bottom (and perhaps the front to wearmore on the top).using the original gibs. Within a year or so, the rear of the carriage gota bit loose and I had to take out 1-2 thousandths of shimming, but thefront didn't need that treatment until late 2006. Obviously, this isn'ttoo shabby, even for the rear, but I still expect it will always wearmore than the front. If the underside of the rear ever wears to thepoint that some parts are looser than others, I can just relap the rearof the bed by sliding the carriage back and forth with abrasives on theslightly.
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Re: Carbide Insert Nomenclature?
Charles E. Kinzer
I think that Carbide Depot site is much handier than the first one I offered up. I think the magic page is
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I also just tripped over this page called "Identification System for Indexable Inserts" at: which has a very nice description of things that gets into a lot of fine detail. It's probably worth printing out and keeping handy with the catalogs. From the Carbide Depot site you provided, I took the data from their drop down boxes that relates to the letters (like "TNMG") and put it below in case anyone finds it helpful in this forum in this form. Or in this form in this forum. SHAPE: A - 85 degree parallelogram C - 80 degree diamond D - 55 degree diamond O - octagon R - round S - square T - triangle V - 35 degree diamond W - 80 degree trigon RELIEF ANGLE: N - 0 degree relief angle B - 5 degree relief angle C - 7 degree relief angle P - 11 degree relief angle D - 15 degree relief angle E - 20 degree relief angle F - 25 degree relief angle TOLERANCE: A - .0002"/.001"/.001" C - .0005"/.005"/.001" E - .001"/.001"/.001" G - .001"/.001"/.001" K - .005"/.001"/.002" M - molded tolerance U - utility tolerance STYLE: - no hole/no chip breaker (no 4th letter) A - straight hole/no chipbreaker B - countersunk hole/no chipbreaker E - no hole/no chipbreaker F - no hole/2-sided chipbreaker G - straight hole/2-sided chipbreaker H - countersunk hole/1-sided chipbreaker M - straight hole/1-sided chipbreaker P - straight hole/hi positive chipbreaker R - no hole/1-sided chipbreaker S - straight hole/hi positive chipbreaker T - countersunk hole/1-sided chipbreaker W - countersunk hole/no chipbreaker Z - straight hole/hi positive chipbreaker The one duplication in the tolerance and the many duplications in the styles are what was on the site and are not typos. A cheat sheet really does make it easier to see the difference between a TNMG and a TPG Chuck K. ----- Original Message -----
From: roylowenthal To: 7x12minilathe@... Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2007 6:27 PM Subject: [SPAM] [7x12minilathe] Re: Carbide Insert Nomenclature? Carbide Depot's site has a pretty good section on decoding the insert nomenclature. They frequently have some good deals on "surplus" tooling. Not affiliated, just a satisfied customer. Roy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "clypeaster55" <clypeaster55@...> wrote: > > I am going to build a ball/radius cutter similar to Bedair's 9X20 > design. Gadgetbuilder has one he made on his site as well. In gathering > the materials, it occured to me that I have no idea what to ask for or > order when it comes to the carbide insert. Gadgetbuilder uses a "TNMG"? > insert, which he says needs a 5 degree titl, and Bedair's doesn't > specify. I know I want something that doesn't require an angled holder, > since I would like to get a few of these to experiment with (making my > own holders, thread tools, etc.). Keeps things nice and simple (for me, > that's a good thing!). I would however, like an insert that would be > good for general use with a variety of metals (CS, 6061, brass, and the > occaisional SS). > > So... my real question is, what do all these "Txxx" designations mean > and where can I find a simple explanation of the types and > nomenclature? Can you buy the screws they need together with them? > After looking around, I haven't had much luck. Besides, the only "T" > codes I know about is "TGIF", and I don't think that cuts anything but > the end of the week! At least it only comes in one size though! > > Any advice is MUCH appreciated. > |
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Re: Way Wear, Hard Gibs
Michael Taglieri
On Wed, 07 Mar 2007 01:36:40 -0000 "born4something"
<ajs@...> writes: Actually, this isn't quite true. There's a force lifting the rear of the carriage whenever the tool is cutting the outside of the work (i.e., not when making a facing cut). Therefore, you should expect the rear to wear more than the front on the bottom (and perhaps the front to wear more on the top). When I lapped my dovetails and the underside of the bed in 2002, I changed the gib retention system under the carriage to shims, using the original gibs. Within a year or so, the rear of the carriage got a bit loose and I had to take out 1-2 thousandths of shimming, but the front didn't need that treatment until late 2006. Obviously, this isn't too shabby, even for the rear, but I still expect it will always wear more than the front. If the underside of the rear ever wears to the point that some parts are looser than others, I can just relap the rear of the bed by sliding the carriage back and forth with abrasives on the underside, after removing enough shims in the back so it drags slightly. Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@... Everyone has his reasons. - Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game" |
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Re: Way Wear, Hard Gibs
Michael Taglieri
Marty, what's the vehicle that your "gearbox of English design from the
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Show quoted text
40's" is used in? I have a similar English design (from the 30's) on my Norton Commando motorcycle. It has worked fine for 2 decades with occasional loving care despite being on a bike that puts out far more horsepower than it was designed for, and it also uses a shaft within a shaft, which put the input shaft from the engine on the same side as the output shaft to the rear wheel so manufacturers could add gearboxes to bikes that previously didn't have them. However, the Norton gearbox design has replaceable bronze bushings inside the outer shaft so the inner one doesn't wear significantly (and custom bushings made on a minilathe can solve the problem if it does). I'm surprised that the design of yours had steel rubbing on steel. A steel gib rubbing against a cast iron bed (which is porous and tends to soak up oil) isn't going to have significant wear, but a steel shaft turning at several thousand RPM inside another steel shaft seems like a pretty clueless design. Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@... Everyone has his reasons. - Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game" On Tue, 6 Mar 2007 22:16:37 -0600 "Marty N" <martyn@...> writes: How about we leave it at this..."everyone has his reasons". ;) |
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Re: Way Wear, Hard Gibs
Fair 'nuff Marty.
I get down to detail in electronics stuff where I know my territory. No qualms about ripping commercial gear apart and redesigning. This stuff is out of my territory and went counter-intuitive for me so I figured I'd raise the query. Later, John --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Marty N" <martyn@...> wrote: perhaps there is no "holly grail" of gibs or any other part for that matter. Thing is that I've just never experienced a single case in the world of mechanical devices where attention to what seems like the trivial pursuits of overly complex to others, excellence to me, hasn't paid me back in triple with results. 40's that uses a stacked shaft arrangement, shaft within a shaft. I was going threw these at a rate of about 2500 miles per shaft. They were made from 1045 and through hardened but the finish was rougher than what you see today and the clearance sloppy but by design but to print and it used "00" grease as a lubricant. I had the outer shaft honed "round", something it wasn't before, and smooth, 20 Ra. Then had the inner shaft ground round and hard chromed then reground for a clearance of .0015". stock was about .008" average. I switched lubricants to a polyol ester oil..Redline Shock Proof Heavy. Everybody and there brother told me that I fit it too tight, finished it too smooth, lubricant was too light, chrome wouldn't hold up and was too hard and would abrade the untreated inner shaft and so on and so on. That was in 2002 and the box hasn't been apart since. It also does something it never did before, shift cleanly. Project cost me about $100 in services and parts. Each broken or seized shaft set cost me that much every few months before that and meant weeks of down time each and every go at it. overly complex ;) and win being that. Hold over from racing days. complex. once shimmed properly. I haven't shimmed yet but plan to. I amup by twisting them all over the place because they don't understandwhat they are doing. Agreed they need some thread seal to stay put.Mine fell apart during shipping. But gee that's easy.screws that holdto theadjustment. This istwo dogthe mostin the bestthat only theunderside, and onlyhigh enoughThis is a bitshims is anthe gib asshims in the packto removeis so softlapped the gibs IIf your goingwithout > perforation where extremely fine adjustment can be made. 6)is .375" thick andwould down to theiron has 23%spec to) hasas brass on |
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Re: HF Lathes
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Aaron Pasteris"
<aarons_groups@...> wrote: ... The Harbor freight is actually 2" shorter than the others and moreexpensive so stay away if possible. ...I'm sure Mr. Pasteris meant to say 4" shorter here. The 7x10 is more honestly a 7x8, while the 7x12 is an honest 7x12. Speaking as a 7x8 owner, on such a short lathe an extra 4" is very desirable. |
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Re: Homier vs Cummins - Better Buy?
I actually called to order an 8x12 last weekend and found the price
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had gone up, it is now $499, and it's on back order with no expected date. So instead of waiting, or going bigger, I decided to save some money and go with a 7x12. Ed I too was going for Cummins but have decided to go for the harbor |
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