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steam4ian <fosterscons@...> wrote: --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@...>
wrote:

G'day Gianni & John.
Look up the EMBHomebuilders group which is a relative of these
machining groups. Its a moderated group but they can't be too fussy,
they let me on it!
They may be able to tell you what EMD can do and even demonstrate it
by cutting your hole/s Gianni.

One goood turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian

Hi Gianni,

EDM=Electrical Discharge Machining. I'm no expert on it other than
what I've read.

You might do a Google search for "hiroc" drills. They are a solid carbide single flute drill that will drill tool steel up to 65 R/c. If you choose to do this make sure it's a solid carbide single flute drill. Just make sure that everything is rigid. Chatter is a killer on these drills. Go slow with the RPM and give it a good feed. Not only do they drill straight but they hold size pretty good. I have used them many times in the past (retired tool and die maker) and they work.
Good luck with whatever you do. Let us know.
Cheers
Charlie


---------------------------------
Now that's room service! Choose from over 150,000 hotels
in 45,000 destinations on Yahoo! Travel to find your fit.

G'day John et al.
We now know the blood(y) line of this Three Jaw Chick; she of sired
by Imprecise, out of True.
My wife is a loverly lady (chick) but occasionally she has one jaw
too many, a three jaw chick must be a fearsome beast.

Seriously, Roy's advice is good, there may be the opportunity for a
bit of gentle lapping but certainly no room for the village
blacksmith. We gets what we pay for. Three jaw chucks were only ever
seen as quick and easy for general work; precision requires either
collets or a four jaw chuck with setting up. The most repeatable
means of centering is to work between centres

One good turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@...>
wrote:

Hi Roy,

That's a rather valid (and perceptive) point. I'd never realised

the

compromises necessary in the spiral scroll design concept.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@...>
wrote:

G'day Gianni & John.
Look up the EMBHomebuilders group which is a relative of these
machining groups. Its a moderated group but they can't be too fussy,
they let me on it!
They may be able to tell you what EMD can do and even demonstrate it
by cutting your hole/s Gianni.

One goood turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian

Hi Gianni,

EDM=Electrical Discharge Machining. I'm no expert on it other than
what I've read.

From the bookmarks (Warning, 1.4 mb PDF):


Issue 60 (p. 75-) and 63 (p. 95-) have some good information on
do-it-yourself EDM. The circuit pictured in 63 is obviously an
electrocution hazard not to mention a serious fire hazard. So this is
definitely in the "do not construct unless you really know what you're
doing" category.
This is a great method to remove broken stainless bolts from aluminum
parts, which is frequently a problem in marine engine repair. It is
just about the only method that works if some poor soul tries to use
an ez-out on the same.

Hi again Gianni,

One thing I forgot. EDM is usually done in a tank of some dielectric
fluid. The fluid is also pumped around to remove the small metal
particles from the vicinity of the cutting edge. The tank will
impose size limits on your job.

John





--- In 7x12minilathe@..., <gianni.carbone@...> wrote:

Hi John



It is a plate about 录" thick (6 mm) the hole must be between 录 and

5/16 in

diameter.

What is an EDM equipment?



Gianni



_____

Da: 7x12minilathe@...

[mailto:7x12minilathe@...] Per

conto di born4something
Inviato: luned矛 5 marzo 2007 12.47
A: 7x12minilathe@...
Oggetto: [7x12minilathe] Re: Drilling HSS 10% cobalt blank



Hi Gianni,

That stuff's hard. What diameter and how deep? Any access to EDM
equipment?

John

--- In 7x12minilathe@ <mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, <gianni.carbone@> wrote:

Hi folks



Does anybody know how to drill holes in a HSS 10% cobalt blanks?



Gianni




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Gianni,

EDM=Electrical Discharge Machining. I'm no expert on it other than
what I've read.

Essentially, the metal is removed by a repetitive electrical
discharge. Do a google search. In brief, there are a couple of
forms. A sinker technique which simply sinks a hole through - can be
done with a shaped electrode for shaped holes. Then there's a wire
technique which is more like an EDM variation of a bandsaw or scroll
saw only with wire fed from a feed spool to a takeup spool via the
job. Same principle though. Mostly these are expensive CNC machines
and can do pretty exotic stuff. But I've seen DIY articles on the
web if you want to have a play. Otherwise, look for a firm offering
this service.

I suspect it's more suited to small quantities rather than mass
production. It doesn't do dozens of holes per minute. More like
dozens of minutes per hole! It has other neat uses too like
accurately eroding small broken taps. Hardness of the metal is a non-
issue. Anyway, do a google and check for local services.

John




--- In 7x12minilathe@..., <gianni.carbone@...> wrote:

Hi John



It is a plate about 录" thick (6 mm) the hole must be between 录 and

5/16 in

diameter.

What is an EDM equipment?



Gianni



_____

Da: 7x12minilathe@...

[mailto:7x12minilathe@...] Per

conto di born4something
Inviato: luned矛 5 marzo 2007 12.47
A: 7x12minilathe@...
Oggetto: [7x12minilathe] Re: Drilling HSS 10% cobalt blank



Hi Gianni,

That stuff's hard. What diameter and how deep? Any access to EDM
equipment?

John

--- In 7x12minilathe@ <mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, <gianni.carbone@> wrote:

Hi folks



Does anybody know how to drill holes in a HSS 10% cobalt blanks?



Gianni




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. <> it/f

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Clicca qui: .

<>
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Hi John



It is a plate about 录鈥� thick (6 mm) the hole must be between 录 and 5/16 in
diameter.

What is an EDM equipment?



Gianni



_____

Da: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] Per
conto di born4something
Inviato: luned矛 5 marzo 2007 12.47
A: 7x12minilathe@...
Oggetto: [7x12minilathe] Re: Drilling HSS 10% cobalt blank



Hi Gianni,

That stuff's hard. What diameter and how deep? Any access to EDM
equipment?

John

--- In 7x12minilathe@ <mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, <gianni.carbone@...> wrote:

Hi folks



Does anybody know how to drill holes in a HSS 10% cobalt blanks?



Gianni




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. <> it/f

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Refill srl dal 1993, il compatibile per stampante di qualit脿.

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Thank you Clifford Clavin. :) Marty, I just barely got through your
post without hitting 'next'. I think I'll just wait for the last post
on this subject that just says '________ is the best lube to use'.
Hey, please don't take my comments as a knock, you bring up some very
valid points. Thanks for your insight. And have a very slippery day.


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Marty N" <martyn@...> wrote:

Lubricity or as some call it "oiliness"! Of all the traits of a

lubricant

this is one that you rarely see a specification on. Usually from

synthetic

fluids suppliers but never from mineral oil suppliers. Unlike

viscosity

which is a function of the fluids internal interplay within itself,

internal

friction, lubricity defines how the lubricant interplays with the

material

it is applied to, external friction. From a tactile view point it

is hard to

distinguish. To quantify lubricity as a separate function, the

additive must

not interfere with the viscosity of the material it is added to. In

other

words the fluid, before and after addition, would need to display

the same

viscosity absolute (centipoises) as measured on something like a

Brookfield

Cone and Plate test rig, then show a lower sine of angle slip to

proof a

claim of greater lubricity. Years ago it was found that Wynn's

friction

proofing, which claimed greater lubricity, was not much more than

kerosene

which just reduced the viscosity of the base oil it was added too.

Yes it

provided a lower sine of slip but also reduced film strength

significantly

and greatly reduced viscosity and nobody at home knew the

difference. The

same effect could be simulated by going down one or two SAE grades

or

running the motor hotter by 20 to 30 degrees F.

Another "trick" used by oil suppliers is to play with the molecular

weight

via catalyst cracking operations or reforming, more or less

molecular

branching, or selectively placing the distribution curve of the

fluid via

distillation , thus altering the specific gravity. As the SAE and

ISO rating

systems are apparent viscosity systems their relationship to the

absolute

systems hinges on this factor. Apparent viscosity in centistokes

(cST)

relating to centipoises (cP), that is centistokes X specific

gravity =

centipoises. Centistokes or Saybolt Seconds are used as industry

standards

to classify a lubricant and if pumped or dripped the delivery

system cares

about its apparent nature but the lubricated surfaces proper only

cares

about the absolute value.

In a more simplistic layout, ways and slides use viscosity to

dampen

vibration "chatter" and provide dynamic braking to the system,

along with

mechanical considerations. An additive that provides lubricity at

the

expense of viscosity may improve the tactile "feel" while reducing

the

dampened features.

Keep us posted Rabid, I'm very interested in your project!

Marty

Hi Gianni,

That stuff's hard. What diameter and how deep? Any access to EDM
equipment?

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., <gianni.carbone@...> wrote:

Hi folks



Does anybody know how to drill holes in a HSS 10% cobalt blanks?



Gianni




--
Email.it, the professional e-mail, gratis per te:

Sponsor:
Refill srl dal 1993, il compatibile per stampante di qualit脿.

5000 prodotti in pronta consegna, consegna in 24h, assistenza
telefonica da tecnici specializzati

Clicca qui:


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi folks



Does anybody know how to drill holes in a HSS 10% cobalt blanks?



Gianni




--
Email.it, the professional e-mail, gratis per te:

Sponsor:
Refill srl dal 1993, il compatibile per stampante di qualit�. 5000 prodotti in pronta consegna, consegna in 24h, assistenza telefonica da tecnici specializzati
Clicca qui:


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

From: Jim RabidWolf
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 2:59 PM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Way Lube, last post

I'm still using mobil 1 on the ways, however I have found an additive that
makes them so slick, the tailstock will not lock in place <G> After a bit
more testing, it may be offered for sale.

Rabid

Lubricity or as some call it "oiliness"! Of all the traits of a lubricant this is one that you rarely see a specification on. Usually from synthetic fluids suppliers but never from mineral oil suppliers. Unlike viscosity which is a function of the fluids internal interplay within itself, internal friction, lubricity defines how the lubricant interplays with the material it is applied to, external friction. From a tactile view point it is hard to distinguish. To quantify lubricity as a separate function, the additive must not interfere with the viscosity of the material it is added to. In other words the fluid, before and after addition, would need to display the same viscosity absolute (centipoises) as measured on something like a Brookfield Cone and Plate test rig, then show a lower sine of angle slip to proof a claim of greater lubricity. Years ago it was found that Wynn's friction proofing, which claimed greater lubricity, was not much more than kerosene which just reduced the viscosity of the base oil it was added too. Yes it provided a lower sine of slip but also reduced film strength significantly and greatly reduced viscosity and nobody at home knew the difference. The same effect could be simulated by going down one or two SAE grades or running the motor hotter by 20 to 30 degrees F.

Another "trick" used by oil suppliers is to play with the molecular weight via catalyst cracking operations or reforming, more or less molecular branching, or selectively placing the distribution curve of the fluid via distillation , thus altering the specific gravity. As the SAE and ISO rating systems are apparent viscosity systems their relationship to the absolute systems hinges on this factor. Apparent viscosity in centistokes (cST) relating to centipoises (cP), that is centistokes X specific gravity = centipoises. Centistokes or Saybolt Seconds are used as industry standards to classify a lubricant and if pumped or dripped the delivery system cares about its apparent nature but the lubricated surfaces proper only cares about the absolute value.

In a more simplistic layout, ways and slides use viscosity to dampen vibration "chatter" and provide dynamic braking to the system, along with mechanical considerations. An additive that provides lubricity at the expense of viscosity may improve the tactile "feel" while reducing the dampened features.

Keep us posted Rabid, I'm very interested in your project!

Marty

Gentlemen,

Thanks for the advice. I made two new holders today as prototypes and
will make another 4 giving me 8 plus the boring holder and cutoff tool.

Given your suggestions, no more often than I cut threads or turn
brass, I think I can use one holder for all of these since their
heights will be consistent.

Jerry

Hi Roy,

That's a rather valid (and perceptive) point. I'd never realised the
compromises necessary in the spiral scroll design concept. The
spiral radius changes between the inner and outer extremes. On
inspection, the jaws are machined with the tightest radius on the
outer of each tooth and enough slop between teeth that they don't
jam at the outer extremity. From a theoretical standpoint it's ugly
as hell with all the load carried on minimal area for largeer
workpieces. From a pragmatic standpoint, how else do you get the
self tracking convenience?

Good news, NO MORE LAPPING needed, just lube!

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal"
<roylowenthal@...> wrote:

You don't want to lap the jaws to the scroll. The scroll is

actually

a helical shape, so you'd find the contact patch with the jaws

moves

as the jaws travel in & out. All you need to do is remove the

burrs

from the ends of the jaw teeth & chamfer all the corners. Some
flavor of abrasive tool in a Dremel/Foredom gets it done in short
order. Since the body is "sort of" cast iron, a little work with
rifflers gets the jaw slots trimmed up to allow free sliding.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@>
wrote:

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal"
<roylowenthal@> wrote:

The body is fileable, the jaws are
hardened & have to be done with an abrasive.

Roy

Hi Roy,

Oh no - not another use for the valve grinding paste! Dare I

suggest

removing any serious burs with a file and then seating the jaws

to

the

scroll with a little lapping? I've only just finished lapping my

gibs

& dovetails (with stellar results). Now you're hinting at

lapping

the

3-jaw. And the 4-jaw could run smoother. When will it all end?

John

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Chris Eilbeck <chris@...> wrote:

Do you scribe the cross-slide with lines at 26.5 and 29.5 degs for

future

reference?

If you're the screwy kinda type! <Big grin>

John

Hi,

I see lots of interest in cheap digital calipers - presumeably for DRO
mods. Not sure if this helps but there are some at
;
1&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&pr&#92;
iceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=
<;
81&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&p&#92;
riceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=> that may be of interest.

Ignore the listed price. I can buy these at Qty 1+ $12.77 Qty 5+ $11.77
Qty 10+ $10.77 (10% GST not inlcluded). The prices are in Aussie dollars
which sit around the $US0.75 mark. I'd probably wear about $AU12 in
freight to get a delivery to my door.

I haven't physically seen one of these so the catalogue entry is all I
have. Perhaps a 1-off retail purchase should come first. If someone
wants to buy some I'm happy to act as middle man. If a few people were
closely located a bulk buy may be attractive. Contact me off list if
you'd like to explore details.

John
(not associated in any way with the supplier, other than as a trade
customer).



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "mrslushy" <MrFrost@...> wrote:

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" rupps@ wrote:

Chris,

You're not the only one that missed it. However I am about 2 weeks

away

from ordering. I missed the $16 dig. caliper too.

Rance (sittin & watching the prices)

LMS currently has 6" digital caliper for 14.95.....check it out.

Yup! One of the 14" ones, wielded as a club.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@...>
wrote:

Now why didn't I spot that? Out of true too. And Roy reckons he can
knock the rough edges off with a file!



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "markzemanek"
<markzemanek@> wrote:

A chick with three jaws?...now THAT'S scary!!! Best run for the
hills...FAST!...

==============


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@>

wrote:

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal"
<roylowenthal@> wrote:

The body is fileable, the jaws are
hardened & have to be done with an abrasive.

Roy

Hi Roy,

Oh no - not another use for the valve grinding paste! Dare I

suggest

removing any serious burs with a file and then seating the jaws

to the

scroll with a little lapping? I've only just finished lapping

my

gibs

& dovetails (with stellar results). Now you're hinting at

lapping the

3-jaw. And the 4-jaw could run smoother. When will it all end?

John

You don't want to lap the jaws to the scroll. The scroll is actually
a helical shape, so you'd find the contact patch with the jaws moves
as the jaws travel in & out. All you need to do is remove the burrs
from the ends of the jaw teeth & chamfer all the corners. Some
flavor of abrasive tool in a Dremel/Foredom gets it done in short
order. Since the body is "sort of" cast iron, a little work with
rifflers gets the jaw slots trimmed up to allow free sliding.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@...>
wrote:

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal"
<roylowenthal@> wrote:

The body is fileable, the jaws are
hardened & have to be done with an abrasive.

Roy

Hi Roy,

Oh no - not another use for the valve grinding paste! Dare I

suggest

removing any serious burs with a file and then seating the jaws to

the

scroll with a little lapping? I've only just finished lapping my

gibs

& dovetails (with stellar results). Now you're hinting at lapping

the

3-jaw. And the 4-jaw could run smoother. When will it all end?

John

Having been satisfied with my lathe for about three years I have just
bought a second one from Homier. They have been out of stock for a very
long time but now have a limited stock. The price I paid was $299.00,
still the same price as nearly three years ago. Thought the group might
like to know. Regards, Ted.

Jerry;

At this time I have 10 tool holders 4 of which I made myself. Yes you can make them on the mill you will need a 60 deg dove tail cutter. You may not want to buy a large dove tail, one 1/2" dia. will most likely do. What I have done is grind one end of the tool for steel and the other end for brass and just flip the cutter end for end. Now I have the cutters that I use for brass in the holders that I made. It dose save some time.

Richard T.
Northern New York USA

I'm still using mobil 1 on the ways, however I have found an additive that
makes them so slick, the tailstock will not lock in place <G> After a bit
more testing, it may be offered for sale.

Rabid