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Re: Harbor freight 8x12 lathe
Druid Noibn
Hi Rance,
If you don't "need" the lathe right away - and wish to save a few $$ you might wish to take a chance and see if the price drops back to the $439. Also note special offers do come and go and the price for the item is coded by the last four digits, e.g., 1VGA, etc. No, the sales person won't tell you the right number to select <smile>. Take care, DBN rancerupp <rupps@...> wrote: Thanks Ed, I'll try that when I order (2-3 weeks out). Rance --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Ed Boysun" <boysungran@...> wrote: over the phone or on the web. If you go to the HF website and type initem # 44859-0HSH, the site will take you to the lathe for $529 and listthe 44859-1VGA (I think). If you click on the "Order from printedcatalog" link and type in the 44859-0HSH part number, you will get to orderit for the special price that goes along with the suffix 0HSH Imentioned. That is the only way to get that price when ordering from thewebsite. You could also probably mention the suffix to the salesman if youwere ordering via phone.HSH and not the letter O. Zero gets you to the lathe for $499 and O saysbut $willalmost pay for the freight over the normal price. --------------------------------- Get your own web address. Have a HUGE year through Yahoo! Small Business. |
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Re: LED Lathe Light
Druid Noibn
Hi Rance,
Thanks for the update! As it turns out, I'm heading over to China in a week or so and will look around a bit - more stuff for the "junk box." Another member posted an offer for an 8-LED item 5-pack for $18.99. Looks like a few toys to play with. Take care, DBN rancerupp <rupps@...> wrote: DBN, One word of caution. If you plan on keeping it in your coat pocket, it may not last as long. I think the bouncing around loosens up the battery holder a bit so sometimes you have to tilt it a bit to get to turn on properly. HOWEVER, mounted to a goose neck on a lathe should be a GREAT application. I STILL highly recommend it. Rance --- In 7x12minilathe@..., Druid Noibn <druid_noibn@...> wrote: sale for $5. They are normally $10. I got one weeks ago and wish I had 5 more.If you are ordering from HF anyways, get one of these and make aflexible mount for your lathe. They are bright and last an extremlyloooooong time on 3 AAA batteries.email and get things done faster. --------------------------------- 8:00? 8:25? 8:40? Find a flick in no time with theYahoo! Search movie showtime shortcut. |
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Re: Harbor freight 8x12 lathe
Thanks Ed, I'll try that when I order (2-3 weeks out).
Rance --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Ed Boysun" <boysungran@...> wrote: over the phone or on the web. If you go to the HF website and type initem # 44859-0HSH, the site will take you to the lathe for $529 and listthe 44859-1VGA (I think). If you click on the "Order from printedcatalog" link and type in the 44859-0HSH part number, you will get to orderit for the special price that goes along with the suffix 0HSH Imentioned. That is the only way to get that price when ordering from thewebsite. You could also probably mention the suffix to the salesman if youwere ordering via phone.HSH and not the letter O. Zero gets you to the lathe for $499 and O saysbut $willalmost pay for the freight over the normal price. |
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Re: Digital Calipers
Druid Noibn
Hi Rance,
Point well-taken. While the picture appears to show the data port door on the 47257-5VGA ($15.99) neither the offer nor the "manual" mention it - I agree with you, best to look elsewhere. Additionally, my older eyes appreciate larger digits. Take care, DBN rancerupp <rupps@...> wrote: DBN, I saw that one. Its a 47257-1VGA vs. 93940-1VGA. I saw the one you pointed out. I think I'll hold out for the one w/big digits and a computer interface as I may convert my lathe to cnc later on down the road. Thanks anyways. :) Rance --- In 7x12minilathe@..., Druid Noibn <druid_noibn@...> wrote: away from ordering. I missed the $16 dig. caliper too.have a wantlisting # from an ad with a good price for model#44859. Now they 539 as of 3-1 --------------------------------- Bored stiff? Loosen up... Download and play hundreds of games for free on Yahoo! Games. |
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Re: About cutting threads
On Sun, Mar 04, 2007 at 04:10:38AM -0000, Paul Moir wrote:
Yes, thanks both! I was thinking along the lines of using a round bar, a dial indicator and a calculator but I guess I might have been making things a bit more complicated than I really needed to. Unfortunately, my local Machine Mart was closed this afternoon so I had to just eyeball my 15degs from the built-in one. Do you scribe the cross-slide with lines at 26.5 and 29.5 degs for future reference? Chris -- Chris Eilbeck MARS Flight Crew UKRA #1108 Level 2 UYB Tripoli UK Member #9527 LSMR |
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Re: Harbor freight 8x12 lathe
Ed Boysun
Rance, Since the lathe is a catalog only item, you need to order it over
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the phone or on the web. If you go to the HF website and type in item # 44859-0HSH, the site will take you to the lathe for $529 and list the 44859-1VGA (I think). If you click on the "Order from printed catalog" link and type in the 44859-0HSH part number, you will get to order it for the special price that goes along with the suffix 0HSH I mentioned. That is the only way to get that price when ordering from the website. You could also probably mention the suffix to the salesman if you were ordering via phone. PS: I just noticed that the suffix is the numeral zero followed by HSH and not the letter O. Zero gets you to the lathe for $499 and O says item not found! Ed B --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" <rupps@...> wrote:
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Re: LED Lathe Light
DBN,
One word of caution. If you plan on keeping it in your coat pocket, it may not last as long. I think the bouncing around loosens up the battery holder a bit so sometimes you have to tilt it a bit to get to turn on properly. HOWEVER, mounted to a goose neck on a lathe should be a GREAT application. I STILL highly recommend it. Rance --- In 7x12minilathe@..., Druid Noibn <druid_noibn@...> wrote: sale for $5. They are normally $10. I got one weeks ago and wish I had 5 more.If you are ordering from HF anyways, get one of these and make aflexible mount for your lathe. They are bright and last an extremlyloooooong time on 3 AAA batteries.email and get things done faster. |
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Digital Calipers
DBN,
I saw that one. Its a 47257-1VGA vs. 93940-1VGA. I saw the one you pointed out. I think I'll hold out for the one w/big digits and a computer interface as I may convert my lathe to cnc later on down the road. Thanks anyways. :) Rance --- In 7x12minilathe@..., Druid Noibn <druid_noibn@...> wrote: away from ordering. I missed the $16 dig. caliper too.have a wantlisting # from an ad with a good price for model#44859. Now they 539 as of 3-1 |
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Re: 3-jaw chick out-of-true?
rod rowzee
i trued my 3 jaw with a dremel tool . took my dremel and jb welded a aluminum block to one side so i couuld mount it on my lathe . then ran my lathe at about 200 or more rpm with the jaws opened and ground the inside legs to true . i found the artical at one of the minilathe sites work great , my jaws were really out of true when i got my lathe
born4something <ajs@...> wrote: --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal" <roylowenthal@...> wrote: Hi Roy, Oh no - not another use for the valve grinding paste! Dare I suggest removing any serious burs with a file and then seating the jaws to the scroll with a little lapping? I've only just finished lapping my gibs & dovetails (with stellar results). Now you're hinting at lapping the 3-jaw. And the 4-jaw could run smoother. When will it all end? John --------------------------------- Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta. |
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Re: Harbor freight 8x12 lathe
mrslushy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" <rupps@...> wrote:
LMS currently has 6" digital caliper for 14.95.....check it out. |
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Re: [Possible Spam] Re: Way Lube, last post
Marty N
Hi Mike:
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I think I mentioned this before but can't remember for sure. Check the bed gap before and after and adjust as needed to get an apples to apples comparison. The change in viscosity will change the gap. Marty ----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Taglieri To: 7x12minilathe@... Sent: Saturday, March 03, 2007 11:59 PM Subject: [Possible Spam] Re: [7x12minilathe] Way Lube, last post Chain-bar oil is also available in Home Depot, etc. (for chain saws). I bought some for my motorcycle chain and may give it a try on the ways. Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@... Everyone has his reasons. - Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game" On Fri, 2 Mar 2007 16:54:58 -0600 "Marty N" <martyn@...> writes: > I mentioned that I would, before weeks end, obtain and try some Way > Lube against the others I posted about. > John had several sooooo I tested several. ISO 68, 100 & 220 from two > vendors, Mobil Vectra series and Viking Sliderite. > > Here's what I found out. The standard way oils have less tackifier > than chain bar oil, allot less but it's still there. It's not > stringy at all. > > The chain bar oil, NAPA brand, is about 50 SUS units heavier and > while that seems small, in a 55 degree basement shop it's enough to > notice. > > But the biggest difference is in stick-slip. I don't know what > exactly is in this stuff but the stick part is definitely less, > about 1/3 that of than any of the other lubricants I've tried, oil > or grease. Dynamic values are about the same as a heavy 20W or light > 30W. > > In descending order for ways I like Viking Sliderite 310, Mobil > Vectra #2, Napa chain bar, Mineral non-detergent 20W heavy, Mobil 1 > 15W50, {White Lithium Grease (Not on ways)}. > > For Leads and Feeds, in descending order I like Chain Bar Oil, Mobil > Vectra #4 (ISO 220), Super-Lube synthetic PTFE, White Lithium > Grease. (Greases not on exposed threads though) > > For the thrust faces and bushings and poly gears I like Moly filled > wheel bearing. > > For unpainted non contact iron parts. Gun oil. > > Opinion varies > > > > Marty > > > > > > ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor > --------------------~--> > Great things are happening at Yahoo! Groups. See the new email > design. > > ----------------------------------------------------------~-> > > > Be sure to check out for small > mills and lathes. > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > |
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Re: Practical Advice on Lathe Bits
David Clark
Hi There
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A quick way around the brass tools is to use 1 holder and the same size tool bit. As a brass tool has no top rake you can set 1 tool holder to required height and just interchange the tool bits. If you use a standard tip tool shank, say 10mm you can do the same. Then when you can afford more holders you can leave the most used tools set up. regards David David Clark Editor Model Engineers' Workshop Subscriptions UK & Europe Renewals and queries Tel 01689 899200 Email modelengworkshop@... Rest Of World Tel (44) 1858 438798 USA & Canada TEL (760) 603 9768 Email info@... Back issues, binders, plans and article reprints Tel (44) 01689 899228 Email customer.services@... Editor 16 mm Today The journal of the 16mm Narrow Gauge association 16mm scale railways in your garden At 14:18 04/03/2007, you wrote:
I am new to using the lathe and just upgraded to a QCTP and find |
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Practical Advice on Lathe Bits
I am new to using the lathe and just upgraded to a QCTP and find
myself wanting a very large supply of tool holders for turning tools. I would like to know roughly how many tool holders you are using for your basic turning tools. My current thought is about 8... Right and left facing, roughing, and finishing. Threading. 1 extra for setting up special tools. Of course then the books all say I should have different rake angles for steel, aluminum and brass... They are fairly easy to make on the mill so money isn't the object but storage space might be. I am thinking there must be a basic set that folks keep in tool holders and then have an extra holder that is setup and adjusted on an as needed basis. Thanks in advance for your wisdom. Jerry Engelman Plymouth, MI |
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Re: Basic thread cutting questions
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Michael Taglieri <miket--
nyc@...> wrote: the1. With the normal B/C gear in place, it wasn't possible to put geargear cover on because the BC gear was too large. Is leaving the thatcover off during thread cutting a serious enough safety hazard andone should go to the trouble of pressing out the bushing and key anreplacing the gear with a smaller one? If so, do most people buy has noextra bushing for this purpose?I would suggest you take the gear cover off and throw it away. It function I can see except decoration. The sticker that tells youwhat gears to use for various threads is useful so take that off first.Mike, how can you say that? Well, at least you could have subtly implied it rather than directly suggesting what many of us unofficially do! Actually, my bench is so cluttered you'd be hard pressed to fall foul of the change gears. They kinda hide behind a drill press. And when I'm not messing with gears I tend to put the cover back on to keep swarf from the drill press out of the plastic gears. John |
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Re: Basic thread cutting questions
Michael Taglieri
1. With the normal B/C gear in place, it wasn't possible to put theI would suggest you take the gear cover off and throw it away. It has no function I can see except decoration. The sticker that tells you what gears to use for various threads is useful so take that off first. 2. I ground a 60 degree bit and left the tip pointed but wonderedReference books such as Machinery's Handbook say there should be a flat or radius on the end, but its size depends on the number of threads per inch. This means you'd need a different bit for every size of thread, so I don't bother, although using a bit with a pointed tip does give you a somewhat weaker thread because it cuts more deeply into the root than it has to. 3. With about an inch of the 1/4 rod extended out from the chuck, IIt's always worthwhile to support the right end with a center if you can and if the work is flexing you have to support it (or take light enough cuts that it doesn't flex). For clearance, do what you have to do. As you say, a ball-bearing tailstock center is much bulkier than a standard one, but even standard #2 centers are very large since on these little lathes we would almost never make a huge center hole on something. You could take a standard #2 center and grind most of it away in the front, or for tiny work like 1/4" rod, you could turn a 60 degree cone on the end of a little piece of rod and use that as your center, held in the tailstock chuck. Hardening or case-hardening would be useful if you plan to reuse it, but for a one-shot job you wouldn't even have to do that. 4. Finally, given the time for setup etc., are there advantages toYou're right if you're just making simple bolts in a standard thread size, but you won't always be doing that. A die can make a 1/4-20 standard thread, but a lathe can put ANY number of threads per inch on ANY size rod, and many things in the world (especially engine parts) don't have standard threads. For example, my motorcycle holds on its exhaust pipes with threaded steel rings about 2" in diameter and 18 threads per inch. Even if you could find a die that size it would cost a fortune, but you could set up your lathe to cut a 2" 18tpi thread in a few minutes. Also, even for standard threads, you get the best possible results if you use both the lathe and a die. If you rough out the thread on the lathe, then finish it with the die, the die cuts a more accurate thread because it has much less work to do and it automatically goes on perfectly straight. Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@... Everyone has his reasons. - Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"
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Re: Magnetic Problem
AnaLog Services, Inc.
Try taking an old gun type soldering iron and use it as a demagnetizer. Slow circular motions while withdrawing slowly. Turn off only when a couple of feet away. Repeat as necessary until completely demagnetized. Be careful not to burn yourself, or to let anybody see you doing it (or they may try to commit you).
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Iron makes a poor permanent magnet. Your unit must have been in a very strong field to become that magnetized. Steels actually make a much better permanent magnet than iron, and in fact prior to WWII when Alnico was discovered, steel is what was used. ----- Original Message -----
From: born4something To: 7x12minilathe@... Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 12:22 AM Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Magnetic Problem Hi Roy, I don't know about any problems using mag bases. I haven't heard of any. But no, the steel is not just stuck in the oil film. As per my post to Ian, I measured 250g to lift a 70g piece of steel. The steel was square (1/2" sq bar) and, for lack of me figuring a way to keep it flat to the ways the parting force was measured with the square steel already cocked at 45 degrees. So no, it wasn't stuck on the oil film. I did try parking a magnetic compass across the ways. Naturally, it snapped to. North seeking needle pointed to the back way. I then placed the magnetic base on the bed backwards and on turning the knob was able to easily reverse the compass polarity so the north seeking needle pointed to the front way. However, on removing the mag base the compass returned to the earlier polarity - north seeking needle to the back way. So while the mag base is able to over-ride the bed's field, it hasn't overcome the cast iron's coercivity to make the polarity change permanent. Maybe that implies the mag base wasn't the source of the problem. A mystery so far. What I do know is that the bed is quite strongly magnetised and most strongly about the point where I used the mag base. John --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal" <roylowenthal@...> wrote: > > I doubt that your magnetic base is capable of permanently magnetizing > a piece of cast iron. People have been using magnetic base > indicators on cast iron machinery for many decades with no signs of > magnetizing the machinery. Occasionally, smooth parts laid on a > smooth, oiled surface will appear to stick from atmospheric pressure > holding them together. > > Roy > > --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@> > wrote: > > > > Hi all, > > > > I've been using a magnetic base for my dial gauge. The base sits > > neatly across the ways. Thinking about it, that runs the magnetic > flux > > lines down one way, across the spacer flanges in the bed casting > and > > back up the other way. It seems to have left the two ways looking > like > > the poles of a horseshoe magnet! > > > > I just rested some machined steel parts down the end of my bed > where > > the t/s would normally sit. They were notably heavy to lift. Is > this a > > common problem? Perhaps I should restrict the magnetic base to one > way > > only but the bigger flat makes it beautifully stable. > > > > John > > > |
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Re: Harbor freight 8x12 lathe
Ed Boysun
44859-OHSH is listed for 499.99. Still not as good as the $439 but $will
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almost pay for the freight over the normal price. Ed --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Chris" <house582@...> wrote:
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Re: 3-jaw chick out-of-true?
Now why didn't I spot that? Out of true too. And Roy reckons he can
knock the rough edges off with a file! --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "markzemanek" <markzemanek@...> wrote: wrote: suggest to theremoving any serious burs with a file and then seating the jaws gibsscroll with a little lapping? I've only just finished lapping my lapping the& dovetails (with stellar results). Now you're hinting at 3-jaw. And the 4-jaw could run smoother. When will it all end? |
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Re: Magnetic Problem
Hi Roy,
I don't know about any problems using mag bases. I haven't heard of any. But no, the steel is not just stuck in the oil film. As per my post to Ian, I measured 250g to lift a 70g piece of steel. The steel was square (1/2" sq bar) and, for lack of me figuring a way to keep it flat to the ways the parting force was measured with the square steel already cocked at 45 degrees. So no, it wasn't stuck on the oil film. I did try parking a magnetic compass across the ways. Naturally, it snapped to. North seeking needle pointed to the back way. I then placed the magnetic base on the bed backwards and on turning the knob was able to easily reverse the compass polarity so the north seeking needle pointed to the front way. However, on removing the mag base the compass returned to the earlier polarity - north seeking needle to the back way. So while the mag base is able to over-ride the bed's field, it hasn't overcome the cast iron's coercivity to make the polarity change permanent. Maybe that implies the mag base wasn't the source of the problem. A mystery so far. What I do know is that the bed is quite strongly magnetised and most strongly about the point where I used the mag base. John --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal" <roylowenthal@...> wrote: magnetizing a piece of cast iron. People have been using magnetic baseof magnetizing the machinery. Occasionally, smooth parts laid on apressure holding them together.magnetic fluxlookinglines down one way, across the spacer flanges in the bed castingandback up the other way. It seems to have left the two ways likeonethe poles of a horseshoe magnet!where wayonly but the bigger flat makes it beautifully stable. |
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