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Hello I am an 18 yeard old machinist, I have about 3.5 years as a
machinist/machinist in training. I am currently attending college
for Precision Machnining Technology. I am used to big old lathes and
mills, but I absolutely love machining and they are to big and bulky
for my space, I have chosen on the smaller version, possible the
Homier 7x12 because its $299 But what is this I hear about the
7x14 micro mark, how much is it, which would be a better buy? Thanks

Sean

From what I know, they are the same. Both are interchangeable with
each other pretty much, maybe 1 has a different coating?

--- In 7x12minilathe@y..., "Brice D. Hornback" <bdh@c...> wrote:

LMS has several different types of turning tools that take the

indexable

inserts. My question is, what's the difference between these two

types of

inserts?

TCMM inserts
TCMT Inserts

Thanks,
Brice

Hi Ken:

I hate it when that happens...I find that deeper holes in aluminum
need to be cleaned out more so they won't bind 'cause it's gummy
stuff. Try putting the workpiece in a vise and tapping the bit with
a hammer and small drift. Sometimes just working it in different
directions will loosen it off.

mike




--- In 7x12minilathe@y..., "Capt Ken Appleby" <captkenn@m...> wrote:

Hi,
This might sound a bit basic but it has stumped me! While drilling

on

my lathe, I have broken two 2mm drills in two separate holes in a
steam engine alluminium casting. They have both broken off flush so
there is nothing to get hold of and there is not a lot of space
around them. I have thought of over-drilling the whole lot out (if

I

can) and making a screw-in plug and milling it flush.

Is the casting a write-off - Or is there another way?

All help appreciated
Regards
Ken

try filling the hole with penetrating oil and leaving it to soak. they may
pull out with pliers
DAVID WILLIAMS
BOLTON
ENGLAND
davidalan@...
SAM ZERO

--- In 7x12minilathe@y..., "Capt Ken Appleby" <captkenn@m...> wrote:

Hi,
This might sound a bit basic but it has stumped me! While drilling

on

my lathe, I have broken two 2mm drills in two separate holes in a
steam engine alluminium casting. They have both broken off flush so
there is nothing to get hold of and there is not a lot of space
around them. I have thought of over-drilling the whole lot out (if

I

can) and making a screw-in plug and milling it flush.

Is the casting a write-off - Or is there another way?

All help appreciated
Regards
Ken

Check this link,

Al

--- In 7x12minilathe@y..., "Capt Ken Appleby" <captkenn@m...> wrote:

Hi,
This might sound a bit basic but it has stumped me! While drilling

on

my lathe, I have broken two 2mm drills in two separate holes in a

Is the casting a write-off - Or is there another way?

Someone on the 7X10 minilathe group gave a reference to a site where
it was stated that you can put an aluminum part in simmering water
that is saturated with alum, (of the kind used for making pickles,
(potassium alum?)), and the tap will begin to bubble a bit, when the
bubbling stops, the tap is dissolved.

You might want to ask this same question there and get the referenced
site.



Al

Hi,
This might sound a bit basic but it has stumped me! While drilling on
my lathe, I have broken two 2mm drills in two separate holes in a
steam engine alluminium casting. They have both broken off flush so
there is nothing to get hold of and there is not a lot of space
around them. I have thought of over-drilling the whole lot out (if I
can) and making a screw-in plug and milling it flush.

Is the casting a write-off - Or is there another way?

All help appreciated
Regards
Ken

It is the "old style" with the oil ports and way wipers on the carriage.
Frank Hoose <fhoose@...> wrote:Is it the "old style" or "new style" Homier?


--- ntdefeo <ntdefeo@...> wrote:

Good Morning All:

After much checking and testing of my Homier
7x12 lathe, I
removed the hs assembly, and found the cause of the
alignment
problem. The locating vee way was gouged out during
the machining
process, causing the spindle to be out of alignment
with the bed
assembly. Back to front of the spindle measured a
difference of
0.004" difference, and the difference in height
between the hs and ts
assembly showed the hs to be 0.125" low. A new hs
casting is on
order, and hopefully, this will correct the
alignment problems. I am
in the process of replacing the saddle gibs with new
ones of brass
while waiting for the hs casting,and giving
everything a good once
over. Other than this setback, I believe these
lathes to be a good
value for the money, and appear to be quite capable
machines. I want
to thank everyone for all the help in getting to the
root cause of my
problem with this lathe (taper turning), and look
forward to
reporting my progress. Nick


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Is it the "old style" or "new style" Homier?


--- ntdefeo <ntdefeo@...> wrote:

Good Morning All:

After much checking and testing of my Homier
7x12 lathe, I
removed the hs assembly, and found the cause of the
alignment
problem. The locating vee way was gouged out during
the machining
process, causing the spindle to be out of alignment
with the bed
assembly. Back to front of the spindle measured a
difference of
0.004" difference, and the difference in height
between the hs and ts
assembly showed the hs to be 0.125" low. A new hs
casting is on
order, and hopefully, this will correct the
alignment problems. I am
in the process of replacing the saddle gibs with new
ones of brass
while waiting for the hs casting,and giving
everything a good once
over. Other than this setback, I believe these
lathes to be a good
value for the money, and appear to be quite capable
machines. I want
to thank everyone for all the help in getting to the
root cause of my
problem with this lathe (taper turning), and look
forward to
reporting my progress. Nick


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7x12minilathe-unsubscribe@...



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Ah, yes, now I make the connection. :)

--- copascetic1@... wrote:

In a message dated 11/15/2002 4:26:22 AM Atlantic
Standard Time,
fhoose@... writes:

Read your review many time before I purchased my
7X14. I had written to you
quite some time ago how thru the largesse of a
friend of mine I had the
opportunity to "play" with a 9X20 and a 7X10. 9X too
big, too many mods to
bring it up to speed, 7X many features I liked,
variable speed,tumblers,
etc., too small. The 7X14 was just right, reminded
me of a SB I had many
years ago. I am very pleased with the 7X14, just
wanted to know what other
owners may have experienced with it "under fire"


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Good! When I had described my situation of having to choose between the two
lathes, your comment was, humorously, "What a dilemma!". I was more or less
in limbo not wanting to purchase any accessories not knowing which lathe I
would keep, then the 7X14 came along and that solved my dilemma. It may seem
strange to some that which ever lathe I had kept it would have been at no
cost. However, I found the 7X14 suited my purpose and chose to buy it. Now I
can proceed to purchase the accessories for the 7X14 such as a 4" 4-jaw,
backplate, QCTP, etc. I have a mini-mill and have already purchased from you
the clamp set.

Here's some info that may be of interest:



Frank Hoose


--- copascetic1 <copascetic1@...> wrote:

Would enjoy hearing opinions from owners of the
Micromark 7X14



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In a message dated 11/15/2002 4:26:22 AM Atlantic Standard Time,
fhoose@... writes:

Read your review many time before I purchased my 7X14. I had written to you
quite some time ago how thru the largesse of a friend of mine I had the
opportunity to "play" with a 9X20 and a 7X10. 9X too big, too many mods to
bring it up to speed, 7X many features I liked, variable speed,tumblers,
etc., too small. The 7X14 was just right, reminded me of a SB I had many
years ago. I am very pleased with the 7X14, just wanted to know what other
owners may have experienced with it "under fire"

Good Morning All:

After much checking and testing of my Homier 7x12 lathe, I
removed the hs assembly, and found the cause of the alignment
problem. The locating vee way was gouged out during the machining
process, causing the spindle to be out of alignment with the bed
assembly. Back to front of the spindle measured a difference of
0.004" difference, and the difference in height between the hs and ts
assembly showed the hs to be 0.125" low. A new hs casting is on
order, and hopefully, this will correct the alignment problems. I am
in the process of replacing the saddle gibs with new ones of brass
while waiting for the hs casting,and giving everything a good once
over. Other than this setback, I believe these lathes to be a good
value for the money, and appear to be quite capable machines. I want
to thank everyone for all the help in getting to the root cause of my
problem with this lathe (taper turning), and look forward to
reporting my progress. Nick

Would enjoy hearing opinions from owners of the Micromark 7X14

Would enjoy hearing opinions from owners of the Micromark 7X14

Generally very true. Usually the only detractors for a longer bed are budget and shop space.

When considering how the extra length would be useful, remember all the work that can be done with the tailstock. Drilling, reaming, tapping and threading with a die. These operations can consume quite a bit of the tool space. Especially when you add the length of threading tool holders. Many Model Engineer experts recommend using taps and dies for threads 1/4" and smaller.

And sometimes, it's just nice to be able to move the tailstock out of the way without having to remove it from the bed.

Paul, Central OR


franksjoy@... wrote:

No...

With the HF 7x10, the working distance with the chuck mounted is more like 8". They use the older convention of distance between tapered centers mounted at both the headstock and tailstock to get 10".

Also, the headstock spindle bore would not take 1" stock for trying to hold the bolt by its shank with just the head exposed. The bore is just under 13/16", and some users have used a reamer to open it up to a full 13/16".

Paul, Central OR


franksjoy@... wrote:

Frankie,

For the lack of a better example, I'll try this one...

Imagine you had a big 1" bolt, 12" long. You want to face the underside of the head, and turn the flats off the bottom 1/8" of the hex portion.

You could hold the top portion of the bolt head in the chuck, and support the threaded end of the bolt at the tailstock. All of the work would take place within a 1" area near the chuck, but the between center space allows the full length handling of the project.

Paul, Central OR


lathechuck wrote:

With all the talk about bed length, it seems to me the only space
that matters is how much space you have between the work piece in a
chuck and tool bit in the compound
Frankie