Re: Angled Backsplash Idea
I have a DRO on this machine, so the backsplash had to say goodbye.? I use a cookie sheet and a butchered cardboard box to catch the swarf.? It does keep the mess down.? When the box gets full, throw it out and put in a new one, LOL!
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Jeff
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Re: Angled Backsplash Idea
I raised my mini lathe on 1 1/2 inch high blocks made from Trex and you could also use wood. The photo shows a slot I cut in the backsplash?lower surface. Other lathe photos and drawings available on request. Regards, John Mattis (retired mechanical engineer)
On Tue, Oct 1, 2024 at 5:22?AM Craig Hopewell via <cch80124= [email protected]> wrote: Same here.? ? I first made standoffs of 1.25 inch long small AL tubes, but later just relegated it to the pegboard.
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Lone Tree, Colorado? ?USA
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Re: Angled Backsplash Idea
I used a piece of scrap wood to move the splash plate about an inch farther away from the bed and bent some aluminum roof flashing to fill the resulting gap by the headstock.? There are no clearance issues and it keeps the mess under control and not on the wall, behind the stand, on the floor, etc.
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Kurt Laughlin
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Re: Angled Backsplash Idea
I removed my backsplash too, shortly after I got the lathe.? It was too annoying for me, and I don't want mounds of swarf collecting right there.? I let all the swarf get pushed off the back where it collects at the base of the wall.? Eventually I reach under the lathe stand to pull handfuls of swarf out, but really it never gets seen.? I often have the motor cover off too, because it prevents the carriage from getting up close to the spindle.
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Mike
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Re: Angled Backsplash Idea
Same here.? ? I first made standoffs of 1.25 inch long small AL tubes, but later just relegated it to the pegboard.
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Lone Tree, Colorado? ?USA
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Re: Angled Backsplash Idea
When I found it getting in the way, I simply took it off & propped it against the wall behind the lathe.
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Roy
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Re: Angled Backsplash Idea
On Monday, September 30, 2024 at 01:14:23 PM PDT, Charles Kinzer <ckinzer@...> wrote:
A few times I have mentioned how the back splash on mini lathes doesn't really scale down well from larger lathes and makes things too crowded when trying to work around or clean the back side area of the lathe.
"Mr. Pete" (Tubalcain) has been running a series on the early Unimats, and out of the blue somebody sent him a little cabinet with a backsplash that was ANGLED.
This seems to help greatly in opening up the space behind the lathe.? The notches are designed to hold tool holders, but you could make notches, or holes, for anything to get additional utility.? Or none at all.? You could make a top bend rearward and horizontal
and put holes in it to hold centers and such.? The part here is stainless and must be pretty thick as he said it weight 10 lbs.
Here is the entire YouTube video where he shows this.
This is one of those things where my reaction is, "Why didn't I think of that?"
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
Attachments:
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A few times I have mentioned how the back splash on mini lathes doesn't really scale down well from larger lathes and makes things too crowded when trying to work around or clean the back side area of the lathe.
"Mr. Pete" (Tubalcain) has been running a series on the early Unimats, and out of the blue somebody sent him a little cabinet with a backsplash that was ANGLED.
This seems to help greatly in opening up the space behind the lathe.? The notches are designed to hold tool holders, but you could make notches, or holes, for anything to get additional utility.? Or none at all.? You could make a top bend rearward and horizontal
and put holes in it to hold centers and such.? The part here is stainless and must be pretty thick as he said it weight 10 lbs.
Here is the entire YouTube video where he shows this.
This is one of those things where my reaction is, "Why didn't I think of that?"
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
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I¡¯m too lazy to look it up but there¡¯s an arbitrary point, about 500C I think, that delineates soldering & brazing. ? Otherwise as said it¡¯s just melting a filler material into the joint.? Where the heat comes from doesn¡¯t matter, I¡¯ve used a torch on electronics (some things really need a lot of heat that most soldering irons just can¡¯t deliver). ? Tony ?
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Bruce J via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, 21 September 2024 5:43 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] Large work holding? And honestly the only difference between ¡®brazing¡¯ and ¡¯soldering¡¯¡is the temperature.? Both are the same process: joining metal by melting a metal of a lower melting point to ¡®wet¡¯ the metal to be joined with the aid of a flux. Cleanliness, flux, heat.? ? On Sep 20, 2024, at 10:01?AM, Miket_NYC via groups.io <mctaglieri@...> wrote: ? Actually, that old plumber's "3 basic rules" apply just as well to brazing as to soft soldering. You're just using different flux and (a lot) more heat. ? On Fri, Sep 20, 2024, 12:46 PM Ralph Hulslander via <rhulslander=[email protected]> wrote: You do not want to "solder" a steam boiler! You need to braze it. I do have to admit I have soldered a steam coil which was not directly fired. ? The old plumber who taught me to solder had 3 basic rules: ?1. Cleanliness is the key to success - surfaces to be soldered MUST be cleaned to bright, shiny metal. ?2. Flux is your friend - apply it to all surfaces before heating. ?3. Solder flows towards the heat source - that was before hot melt glue guns were common.? The basic idea was to apply heat to the area you want the solder to flow towards, not the outer surface.
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Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism. ?
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Just to add to point #3, the part needs to be hot enough to melt the solder. ? The iron or torch is used only to heat up the part, not melt the solder / braze / whatever.? Please take note, YouTube videos full of cold joints. ? Tony ? ?
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Roy via groups.io
Sent: Friday, 20 September 2024 11:08 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] Large work holding? The old plumber who taught me to solder had 3 basic rules: ?1. Cleanliness is the key to success - surfaces to be soldered MUST be cleaned to bright, shiny metal. ?2. Flux is your friend - apply it to all surfaces before heating. ?3. Solder flows towards the heat source - that was before hot melt glue guns were common.? The basic idea was to apply heat to the area you want the solder to flow towards, not the outer surface.
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Re: detection of alluminium
"Try melting a piece of it? Steel and Al have very different melting temps."
Steel would be easy. He's trying to tell aluminum from magnesium.
Mike Taglieri?
Try melting a piece of it?? Steel and Al have very different melting temps.
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Re: detection of alluminium
Try melting a piece of it?? Steel and Al have very different melting temps.
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Re: detection of alluminium
There acid to test types metal?
I never worry about it unless I am? welding or foundry work.?
Stainless is a different story because you know if 400 type and if a magnet sticks then 400 most machines it a bad day
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Dave?
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On Tue, Sep 24, 2024 at 06:05 AM, Jacques Savard wrote:
?
I have? some? metal? from? picnic table? whit glass?
2 interrogation
A? howto? verify? it is alluminium? ?maybe? magnnetic? ok? but? do you have? any other? method? like? acid? vinegar? or so
B? ?is it possible to? make a check? playing? dising? whit? sand blasst? on? these? kind? of? tenpered glass table? or? no? everything? exploded
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jack 47 71
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Re: detection of alluminium
I don't have one of these tabletops, but I had a thought. A cell phone has a polarizing filter. Would that also show the effect?
On Wed, Sep 25, 2024 at 9:52?AM Mark Kimball via <markkimball51= [email protected]> wrote: It isn't absolutely necessary to use two polarizers, if you have a pair of polarizing sunglasses.? Indirect light from the sky on a clear day is partially polarized, so just put them on and look at the sky through the glass.? Sky light isn't 100% polarized so the contrast between the light/dark regions won't be as dark as with a pair of polarizing filters.? But just about everyone has some polarizing sunglasses lying around.
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I see this effect most often when driving since the car's windows are made with tempered glass.
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Buffalo John
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Re: detection of alluminium
It isn't absolutely necessary to use two polarizers, if you have a pair of polarizing sunglasses.? Indirect light from the sky on a clear day is partially polarized, so just put them on and look at the sky through the glass.? Sky light isn't 100% polarized so the contrast between the light/dark regions won't be as dark as with a pair of polarizing filters.? But just about everyone has some polarizing sunglasses lying around.
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I see this effect most often when driving since the car's windows are made with tempered glass.
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Re: detection of alluminium
Dear Roy, Many thanks for the Maltese pattern detection method for tempered glass. Regards, David (nr. Oxford, UK)
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On 25 Sep 2024, at 00:56, Roy via groups.io <roylowenthal@...> wrote:
? Aluminum will react with a strong base, ferrous metals won't. Probably the easiest to obtain is a drain cleaner; the kind you want will contain either sodium or potassium hydroxide. You'll probably need to scratch the surface (to break the oxide layer) under a pool of liquid. Magnesium is much less common due to cost & manufacturing difficulties.
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Tempered glass MUST be annealed before attempting to cut it, otherwise the whole piece shatters into little cubes as soon as any part of the surface is breached. An easy way to identify it is with 2 polarizing filters - put the glass between the 2 of them & rotate one of them; tempered glass will show a, "Maltese" cross pattern, plain glass won't.
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Roy
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Re: detection of alluminium
Aluminum will react with a strong base, ferrous metals won't. Probably the easiest to obtain is a drain cleaner; the kind you want will contain either sodium or potassium hydroxide. You'll probably need to scratch the surface (to break the oxide layer) under a pool of liquid. Magnesium is much less common due to cost & manufacturing difficulties.
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Tempered glass MUST be annealed before attempting to cut it, otherwise the whole piece shatters into little cubes as soon as any part of the surface is breached. An easy way to identify it is with 2 polarizing filters - put the glass between the 2 of them & rotate one of them; tempered glass will show a, "Maltese" cross pattern, plain glass won't.
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Roy
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Re: detection of alluminium
If you have concentrated nitric acid, that won't harm aluminum but will attack most other metals, including magnesium. Also, shaving of magnesium will burn brilliantly. (That's how they made flashbulbs).
On Tue, Sep 24, 2024, 9:05 AM Jacques Savard via <jacquessavard= [email protected]> wrote: ?
I have? some? metal? from? picnic table? whit glass?
2 interrogation
A? howto? verify? it is alluminium? ?maybe? magnnetic? ok? but? do you have? any other? method? like? acid? vinegar? or so
B? ?is it possible to? make a check? playing? dising? whit? sand blasst? on? these? kind? of? tenpered glass table? or? no? everything? exploded
?
jack 47 71
?
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Re: detection of alluminium
Perhaps Archimedes could assist.
On Tuesday, September 24, 2024 at 07:52:13 AM PDT, paul mcclintic via groups.io <cannontandem@...> wrote:
Not sure if it is a shape you could figure out its volume. If it is you could weigh it and see if that is the correct for that volume of material. Paul M
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Re: detection of alluminium
There are some chemical ways to test aluminum but require strong chemicals.? Calculating the density is a much safer way to go.
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John Mattis
davesmith1800
BuffaloJohn