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Having had my lathe?on the Gulf Coast of Texas I found that a cover over the machine,;an old linen table cloth?is dust free; and a 25 watt lighrbulb?will ward off condensation.? Bill
I second the Way Oil suggested by Bruce.?
I use it on all my tools that go in the drawer and I put it on the mill and the lathe. If it looks like it might rust, it gets a good coating...
Seriously, maybe get some way oil? It¡¯s more viscous might be better to prevent rust?
--
Buffalo John
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I second the Way Oil suggested by Bruce.?
I use it on all my tools that go in the drawer and I put it on the mill and the lathe. If it looks like it might rust, it gets a good coating...
Seriously, maybe get some way oil? It¡¯s more viscous might be better to prevent rust?
--
Buffalo John
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Light bulbs can be dangerous and even a fire hazard if left on 24x7. ? ?A better solution, that I just discovered is a ¡°reptile heater¡±. These are low-powered heater pads you buy for reptiles kept as pets. ? They never get too hot to touch and are safe for animals ?You can buy the pads on Amazon or at 1/3rd the price on Aliexpress. ? ?A 7 Watt pad should be enough. ?Attach the pad to any metal surface and it will stay just barly warm. ? ? I guess you could also put them on a ¡°smart plug¡± and program it to be on only when needed. For a cover I used scraps cut from an older car cover. ? Another reason to NOT use a light bulb, the covers are flammable.
Here is an example: ?
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On Mar 11, 2024, at 10:16?AM, Charles Kinzer <ckinzer@...> wrote:
I have most often heard of people having a cover over the machine and then a light bulb (incandescent for the heat) underneath.? As well as the usual "oil it" a lot.
In this "Practical Machinist" blog, the light bulb and many other suggestions are offered.
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I¡¯ve seen folks recommend something like this?
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There are also drawer liners that claim to inhibit rust.
On Mar 11, 2024, at 10:16 AM, Charles Kinzer <ckinzer@...> wrote:
I have most often heard of people having a cover over the machine and then a light bulb (incandescent for the heat) underneath.? As well as the usual "oil it" a lot.
In this "Practical Machinist" blog, the light bulb and many other suggestions are offered.
There are all manner of little "cabinet heaters" available as an alternative to light bulbs, since you only need heat, not light.? Such as this one at Amazon.
Of course, heaters, or incandescent bulbs used as heaters, will eat up some power.? The bulb has the benefit of confirming that it is in fact turned on.
I don't know if this will work for larger things like machines, but an old machinist trick to rustproof the tools in the machinist chest is to put in a piece of camphor.? The camphor continually sublimates (goes from solid to gas directly) and permeates the air inside the chest and puts a very, very thin coating on all of the surfaces of the tools.? I have used this for years and have never had rust issues with tools - in the machinist chest anyway.? For something larger, like a lathe, it may have to be enclosed in something pretty well for that scheme to work.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 10:00:46 AM PDT, chrisser via groups.io <chris.kucia@...> wrote:
I may have mentioned this before, but I have a serious moisture/humidity issue here in WV.? Similar issue as further South, except we tend to have cooler temperatures, especially at night so the tools are often still below the due point when the moisture increases during the day.
It's a particular problem in my garage/shop which is uninsulated.??
I've solved this with my small precision tools by keeping them oiled and keeping them in gasket-sealed plastic containers with some dessicant packs.
I thought I had solved this on my bench tools by coating them with Ballistol - only to find that it doesn't seem to hold up all that well over time.? I went over to the lathe that I had coated heavily in Ballistol in January only to find rust patches on the ways.? Came off easily enough with some fine scotchbrite, but I'd like to find something better.
Thinking of trying Birchwood Casey Barricade, which is supposedly better than Ballistol and also made for firearms.
Just wondering if anyone has a better solution.? Wondering if just plain motor oil would be adequate.
--?
Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.
I've tried WD-40 in the past, and at least to my observation, it's actually a contributor to rust.
It's great for displacing water and very short-term protection.? Problem is, at least in my experience, is it will clean off any heavier oils that may offer protection, and then eventually evaporates away leaving the item prone to rusting.
I know others swear by it, but for me, it makes things worse.
On Monday, March 11th, 2024 at 1:17 PM, Ralph Lehotsky <ralphlehotsky@...> wrote:
How about WD-40 - Its a water displacement formula
- Drives out moisture and quickly dries out electrical systems to eliminate moisture-induced short circuits
- Acts as a corrosion inhibitor to shield against moisture and other corrosive elements to prevent rust
- Frees sticky mechanisms, loosens rust-to-metal bonds and helps release stuck, frozen or rusted metal parts
- Removes grease, grime, gunk, gum, tar, sap, super glue, sticker residue, and other sticky stuff from multiple surfaces
- Lubricates moving parts such as hinges, wheels, pulleys, rollers, chains, and gears
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How about WD-40 - Its a water displacement formula
- Drives out moisture and quickly dries out electrical systems to eliminate moisture-induced short circuits
- Acts as a corrosion inhibitor to shield against moisture and other corrosive elements to prevent rust
- Frees sticky mechanisms, loosens rust-to-metal bonds and helps release stuck, frozen or rusted metal parts
- Removes grease, grime, gunk, gum, tar, sap, super glue, sticker residue, and other sticky stuff from multiple surfaces
- Lubricates moving parts such as hinges, wheels, pulleys, rollers, chains, and gears
|
I have most often heard of people having a cover over the machine and then a light bulb (incandescent for the heat) underneath.? As well as the usual "oil it" a lot.
In this "Practical Machinist" blog, the light bulb and many other suggestions are offered.
There are all manner of little "cabinet heaters" available as an alternative to light bulbs, since you only need heat, not light.? Such as this one at Amazon.
Of course, heaters, or incandescent bulbs used as heaters, will eat up some power.? The bulb has the benefit of confirming that it is in fact turned on.
I don't know if this will work for larger things like machines, but an old machinist trick to rustproof the tools in the machinist chest is to put in a piece of camphor.? The camphor continually sublimates (goes from solid to gas directly) and permeates the air inside the chest and puts a very, very thin coating on all of the surfaces of the tools.? I have used this for years and have never had rust issues with tools - in the machinist chest anyway.? For something larger, like a lathe, it may have to be enclosed in something pretty well for that scheme to work.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 10:00:46 AM PDT, chrisser via groups.io <chris.kucia@...> wrote:
I may have mentioned this before, but I have a serious moisture/humidity issue here in WV.? Similar issue as further South, except we tend to have cooler temperatures, especially at night so the tools are often still below the due point when the moisture increases during the day.
It's a particular problem in my garage/shop which is uninsulated.??
I've solved this with my small precision tools by keeping them oiled and keeping them in gasket-sealed plastic containers with some dessicant packs.
I thought I had solved this on my bench tools by coating them with Ballistol - only to find that it doesn't seem to hold up all that well over time.? I went over to the lathe that I had coated heavily in Ballistol in January only to find rust patches on the ways.? Came off easily enough with some fine scotchbrite, but I'd like to find something better.
Thinking of trying Birchwood Casey Barricade, which is supposedly better than Ballistol and also made for firearms.
Just wondering if anyone has a better solution.? Wondering if just plain motor oil would be adequate.
|
Practical Machinist has a web article on rust preventatives.? One of the recommendations is something called LPS-3.? Apparently it's slightly waxy and that might do the trick.
From what I've read, it can last for months outdoors and years indoors and is also a lubricant.
May give that a try.
On Monday, March 11th, 2024 at 1:10 PM, Bruce J <bruce.desertrat@...> wrote:
Move to southern Arizona? 8-P?
Seriously, maybe get some way oil? It¡¯s more viscous might be better to prevent rust?
On Mar 11, 2024, at 10:00 AM, chrisser via groups.io <chris.kucia@...> wrote:
I may have mentioned this before, but I have a serious moisture/humidity issue here in WV.? Similar issue as further South, except we tend to have cooler temperatures, especially at night so the tools are often still below the due point when the moisture increases during the day.
It's a particular problem in my garage/shop which is uninsulated.??
I've solved this with my small precision tools by keeping them oiled and keeping them in gasket-sealed plastic containers with some dessicant packs.
I thought I had solved this on my bench tools by coating them with Ballistol - only to find that it doesn't seem to hold up all that well over time.? I went over to the lathe that I had coated heavily in Ballistol in January only to find rust patches on the ways.? Came off easily enough with some fine scotchbrite, but I'd like to find something better.
Thinking of trying Birchwood Casey Barricade, which is supposedly better than Ballistol and also made for firearms.
Just wondering if anyone has a better solution.? Wondering if just plain motor oil would be adequate.
--?
Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.
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Move to southern Arizona? 8-P?
Seriously, maybe get some way oil? It¡¯s more viscous might be better to prevent rust?
On Mar 11, 2024, at 10:00 AM, chrisser via groups.io <chris.kucia@...> wrote:
I may have mentioned this before, but I have a serious moisture/humidity issue here in WV.? Similar issue as further South, except we tend to have cooler temperatures, especially at night so the tools are often still below the due point when the moisture increases during the day.
It's a particular problem in my garage/shop which is uninsulated.??
I've solved this with my small precision tools by keeping them oiled and keeping them in gasket-sealed plastic containers with some dessicant packs.
I thought I had solved this on my bench tools by coating them with Ballistol - only to find that it doesn't seem to hold up all that well over time.? I went over to the lathe that I had coated heavily in Ballistol in January only to find rust patches on the ways.? Came off easily enough with some fine scotchbrite, but I'd like to find something better.
Thinking of trying Birchwood Casey Barricade, which is supposedly better than Ballistol and also made for firearms.
Just wondering if anyone has a better solution.? Wondering if just plain motor oil would be adequate.
--?
Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.
|
I may have mentioned this before, but I have a serious moisture/humidity issue here in WV.? Similar issue as further South, except we tend to have cooler temperatures, especially at night so the tools are often still below the due point when the moisture increases during the day.
It's a particular problem in my garage/shop which is uninsulated.??
I've solved this with my small precision tools by keeping them oiled and keeping them in gasket-sealed plastic containers with some dessicant packs.
I thought I had solved this on my bench tools by coating them with Ballistol - only to find that it doesn't seem to hold up all that well over time.? I went over to the lathe that I had coated heavily in Ballistol in January only to find rust patches on the ways.? Came off easily enough with some fine scotchbrite, but I'd like to find something better.
Thinking of trying Birchwood Casey Barricade, which is supposedly better than Ballistol and also made for firearms.
Just wondering if anyone has a better solution.? Wondering if just plain motor oil would be adequate.
|
On Sun, Mar 10, 2024 at 06:00 AM, Craig Hopewell wrote:
Check with Grizzly - their 7x14 is a Real Bull.?
You are correct, their 7x14 does have many of the parts that are on the Vevor 7x14. The part I need is one of them. For now I made a key that offset 0.032" (0.8mm) between the top and bottom halves which seems to work just fine.
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You buy new steel gears.
Plastic is not best for a lathes.
The 90T belt can be found on Amazon and Ebay.??
Vevor is just retailer you are on your own for replacement parts.?
Every part can be found on the internet including the bedways.
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On Sat, Mar 9, 2024 at 08:26 AM, paul mcclintic wrote:
I need to prey it off with a screwdriver which takes a lot of one side/other side reps. The plastic timing gear are VERY tight on the shafts. The timing belt has 90 teeth rather then the standard 70. If I knew all of this before I bought it I would have passed on it. Has anyone else had any problems?
I had the same experience with my Vevor 7x14- I was surprised that the gears hadn't cracked; it was a real struggle to get them off. I reamed all the plastic change gears so they went on securely, but without a lot of force. It's not that the 90T timing belt isn't standard - the 70T belts are for lathes that have a Hi-Lo transmission in the headstock. Those 90T belts are easily available on AliExpress. Change gears are easy to buy, or you can 3D print them or have somebody local 3D print them for you. I use 3D printed PLA gears and they work fine.
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Those keyways are different between SIEG and Real Bull lathes.
Check with Grizzly - their 7x14 is a Real Bull.? ?And their 7x12 is a SIEG.
Parts list:
Parts ordering:
https://www.grizzly.com/products/g0765/parts
--
Lone Tree, Colorado? ?USA
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Re: Grinding Shaper Tools
[Default] On Fri, 08 Mar 2024 18:22:42 -0800, "Miket_NYC" <mctaglieri@...> wrote: One advantage of a shaper over a milling machine is that to cut, say, a
groove of a certain size, you don't need a specific milling cutter but can
just grind a shaper tool of that size. In a milling machine or lathe, you would simply use a smaller tool and take two or more passes. I imagine that should be possible on a shaper as well? But the disadvantage of this is that you HAVE to grind it and grind it
right. To grind tools to accurate dimensions, you need a tool grinding machine. Sometimes, you can use a surface grinder with the appropriate support blocks. -- Helge
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On Sat, Mar 9, 2024 at 11:42 AM, davesmith1800 wrote:
This may help . I got it from someone else that got it from Vevor with lot of trouble.?
Dave?
I should have said THIS is the list that looks like mine.
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Thank you. This does look like my lathe. The part that I have the problem with is Number 17. It is like the ones LMS has but the 2 keyways in mine are 4mm and theirs have 3mm keyways. The only place I have found for some of my parts is Amadeal which can be a gamble since there are several differences.
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This is the manual and parts list for the UK Warco WM180 which is from the same stable and may help.
--
Colin Spencer
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If I read correctly, the part numbers are different from your Vevor picture and LMS 5100 lathe /johannes ? ? ?
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From: davesmith1800Sent: laurdag 9. mars 2024 14:01 To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] Vevor parts ? I would not be surprised the Vevor did just copy that page and hope the guy did not notice the difference.
The manual I received with was at less last 10 page was cut off.?
They shipped mine with a 84 tooth gear they did replace with correct 80 tooth gear
Dave?
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I would not be surprised the Vevor did just copy that page and hope the guy did not notice the difference.
The manual I received with was at less last 10 page was cut off.?
They shipped mine with a 84 tooth gear they did replace with correct 80 tooth gear
Dave?
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BuffaloJohn
chrisser
Ralph Lehotsky
davesmith1800
Colin Spencer
Johannes
