Re: Report on Vevor 7x14 $500 CAD delivered - Impulse buy....
On Fri, Apr 1, 2022 at 06:21 PM, Ryan H wrote:
Have you looked at the half nuts???Do they have a slot in them for pins on the cam to engage?
Yes, they look OK.
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Re: New 7x12 delivered and on the bench.
On Fri, Apr 1, 2022 at 06:05 PM, gcvisalia@... wrote:
Yea, the whole leadscrew thing on my micromark 7x16 was a royal mess.......... As my leadscrew end bearings had no way to lube them I just drilled a hole in each one so that I can oil them occasionally.?
George- that's interesting to hear about your MicroMark 7x16 - I think they are one of the higher priced versions of the Sieg 7x. My MicroMark/MicroLux 7x14 isn't too bad, but wasn't really ready to use when I got it, and I am the third (minimum) owner. On my new Vevor one of the leadscrew blocks (does yours have bearings?) has one of those (not useful) brass 'oilers' with the ball bearing, the other end (hidden under the left cover just has a hole.
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Re: New 7x12 delivered and on the bench.
Thank you, much appreciated! ? Michael - California, USA Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16 LMS 3990 Hi-Torque Mill with power feed ? ? ?
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Show quoted text
From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of j_r_abercrombie via groups.io Sent: Friday, April 1, 2022 5:58 PM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] New 7x12 delivered and on the bench. ? On Fri, Apr 1, 2022 at 04:27 PM, Michael Jablonski wrote: I for one don’t visit the Facebook 7x site and I know several others here who don’t. If it isn’t too much trouble I think the non-Facebook people in here would appreciate seeing your ‘discoveries’ posted here as well.
I am not at all a fan of Facebook, so don't get me wrong on that! I'll paste in a few of my 'Vevor discoveries' in a separate thread here.
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Re: Report on Vevor 7x14 $500 CAD delivered - Impulse buy....
Thought so, LOL. Have you looked at the half nuts???Do they have a slot in them for pins on the cam to engage?
On Apr 1, 2022, 9:17 PM -0400, Ryan H via groups.io <ifly172@...>, wrote:
Is the saddle an "H" shape or solid square???Is there a different model number listed, maybe starting with CJ?
On Apr 1, 2022, 9:15 PM -0400, j_r_abercrombie via groups.io <j_r_abercrombie@...>, wrote:
Vevor carriage underside..
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Re: Report on Vevor 7x14 $500 CAD delivered - Impulse buy....
Is the saddle an "H" shape or solid square???Is there a different model number listed, maybe starting with CJ?
On Apr 1, 2022, 9:15 PM -0400, j_r_abercrombie via groups.io <j_r_abercrombie@...>, wrote:
Vevor carriage underside..
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Re: Report on Vevor 7x14 $500 CAD delivered - Impulse buy....
Vevor carriage underside.. 
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Re: Report on Vevor 7x14 $500 CAD delivered - Impulse buy....
I thought these Vevor wrenches pretty much told the whole story... :) 
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Re: Report on Vevor 7x14 $500 CAD delivered - Impulse buy....
And...  
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Re: Report on Vevor 7x14 $500 CAD delivered - Impulse buy....
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Re: Report on Vevor 7x14 $500 CAD delivered - Impulse buy....
Update: The 'way wipers' are actually pieces of rubber/soft plastic stuck on, with small metal plates and screws to hold them in place. They may be wipers but I think the main purpose is to make it seem that the carriage is properly adjusted (no wiggle) when it isn't. I removed those 'wipers' and the carriage was rattling. So I added the common "work on carriage gibs/slides" to the ToDo list. I got the apron-leadscrew alignment worked out - I had to elongate those holes (and counterbores) in the carriage where it bolts to the apron. The half-nut mechanism needed some work as the detent in the shaft - the one that holds the lever up and teh half nuts open - was drilled far too small to seat the ball properly. The gibs for the half-nuts were also too tight - I think that there needs to be a bit of looseness to allow the two halfnuts to engage the leadscrew smoothly. The support blocks for the leadscrew needed adjusting as part of the effort. A lot of the setscrews on the machine are too long. For some reason the sheet metal cover for the motor is even with the outside of the gears, not the headstock as on the MicroLux. This makes it even more difficult to tighten the 'inside nut' on the banjo when getting the gears changed, since I can't wield the wrench from the back. The Sanou (or counterfeit?) chuck was quite gritty feeling and I stripped it down and cleaned it. Once it was back together, I gave it a 'workout' by squaring the end of a wooden dowel to use as a chuck key, and spinning that with the electric drill. There was a spot in the scroll rotation where the chuck would 'stall' - possibly a rough spot on one of the gears; it doesn't do that any more. ?
 
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Report on Vevor 7x14 $500 CAD delivered - Impulse buy....
Posts from a few days ago to the Facebook 7x Mini-lathe group.
*
My $500 CAD/$400 USD Vevor 7x14 lathe arrived today. I was a bit surprised that the vendor actually shipped it since the price was pretty low, and went up by a couple of hundred the day after I ordered. (Price included the shipping cost via UPS). No big surprises yet, my expectations were pretty low. ?
I've just given it a quick 'once over'.
Good things, some surprising: 100mm (4") SANOU chuck included which seems quite nice. Radial runout on a round carbide shaft held in the 3-jaw is 0.01mm (0.0004"). Axial movement of the chuck when pried gently with a bar is virtually nil - perhaps 0.0001" - just barely moving the needle on my dial test indicator. Motor, gears and spindle go round and round without a lot of fuss and no strange noises. It has 'proper' half-nuts with two half-nuts which clamp on to the leadscrew. It has oiler ports in the carriage and a couple of other spots, including the support bracket for the leadscrew. Way wipers on the carriage. Lever lock on tailstock- haven't checked that yet, as the nut had fallen off in transit (nut and plate were in the crate). More room for my fingers between the headstock and spindle flange if I need to change the chuck, compared to the MicroLux. Generally seems to be fairly well adjusted, though I haven't tested that much. The cross slide and compound move and aren't rattling around.
Things I expected from the ad description, and by reputation- It's all metric, including the leadscrew. (I think most US-bound units ship with a 16TPI leadscrew and metric cross slide and compound?) Single speed range, no hi/lo gears in headstock. No tach. No follow rest or steady rest included. No threading dial. The dials on the cross slide and compound are locked in place by friction- this is a well-known design problem, corrected by mods of several types.
They didn't waste a lot of time putting the sheet metal parts on.? The controller box is a bit askew and the paint is scraped off at the attachment screws - though this may have been something that happened in transit. The backsplash screw hole threads need chasing (to remove grit) and one of the screws had the Philips slots mangled. One screw missing on backsplash.
Strange and unexpected- the tailstock barrel setscrew is on top, not underneath. Looking at the tailstock barrel from the headstock, the groove for the setscrew is at 12 o'clock, the barrel markings start at 3 o'clock and go to 6 o'clock. This means that unless you have the lathe axis at eye level, you can't see the markings. And the markings are quite shallow and thin.
?If it were my only lathe, I'd want to get a steady rest and a threading dial right away, before thinking about QuickChangeToolPost, etc...
My idea is to use the Vevor with the milling attachment- I'll have to see how this works in practice since without the Hi/Lo transmission it may not have enough torque at low rpm settings. The upside is that there are a lot of cheap re-powering possibilities if I want that.
Something I didn't think through clearly - I'm pretty sure my chucks and collet faceplate from the MicroLux won't fit the bigger 100mm spindle plate on the Vevor.
Looks like a lot of play value for $400 USD delivered. ?
?
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Re: New 7x12 delivered and on the bench.
Yea, the whole leadscrew thing on my micromark 7x16 was a royal mess. Near everything was off. I had to get the half nut mechanism functioning properly. Basically nothing worked properly nor smoothly. Then of course I found the leadscrew end bearings were basically not machined at all. So I had to get rid of the paint where they mounted and down to metal. Then I had to make the mounting part of the bearings flat. Then I had to flatten the area that the allen bolts screwed down on the bearings as they were slanted. Then I enlarged the holes for the bolts so that I could move the bearings in all directions. I found on mine that the lead screw did not have a flat surface on the right side. So I smoothed that out so I had a nice clean surface for the leadscrew to push against the bearing housing. Then I engaged the half nuts and moved them to the right and lightly secured the bolts. Then all the way to the left and lightly secured the bolts. Back and forth several times. And in between I would disengage the half nuts to see how the leadscrew was moving. Anyway, I got it to a point of the leadscrew rotating very easily and without much if any ide to side play. Also got it so that the lead screw does not move at all when the half nuts are engaged.? Took a but of time and patience? but boy, everything now works smoothly. As my leadscrew end bearings had no way to lube them I just drilled a hole in each one so that I can oil them occasionally.?
george
On Friday, April 1, 2022, 04:39:17 PM PDT, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:
??? ??? Another cause of the lead screw problem is caused by the
leadscrew support on the right sode of the lathe not having it's
screw holes drilled correctly .
??? ??? animal
On 4/1/2022 3:08 PM, j_r_abercrombie
via groups.io wrote:
On Thu, Mar 31, 2022 at 10:45 AM, MZ Rider wrote:
Reckon I will need to do a bit of fitting as a bit
noisy using the main slide hand wheel near the head stock.
I do not need a longer version so the 7x12 is enough for me,
also much cheaper than larger variations.?
Probably go for 4 jaw independent, maybe a quick change tool
post and thinking about a vertical table for milling.
Not likely to do much thread cutting but might look to getting
metal gears for the main drive. See how it goes.
I have a tachometer so will work out the approximate? speed
positions for the dial.
So any tips and points to really check out as I hopefully have a
closer look over the weekend.?
Your new lathe sounds a lot like the one that was delivered to me
a couple of days ago - a 'Vevor' 7x14 that was an impulse buy when
I saw it @ $500 CAD (incl. delivery) on walmart.ca.
I'm posting my 'discoveries' with it on the 7x lathe page on
Facebook, so I won't duplicate all that info here.
About the noise when moving the carriage with the handwheel- That
was one of the first 'problems' I noticed -? I found that the
alignment of the leadscrew to the half-nuts was the problem - the
threads in the half-nuts were rubbing on the leadscrew even when
they were supposed to be disengaged. NOt good as it will wear the
leadscrew and the half nuts. Also, engaging the half-nuts (by
turning the lever down) was pushing (bending) the leadscrew. On my
lathe the main problem was that the two cap screws fixing the
carriage to the apron were in drilled holes with counterbores. On
my 'other lathe', also a 7x14, those bolts rest in counterbored slots
so that the apron can be moved to align the half-nuts with the
leadscrew. With a Dremel grinder/end mill and a round hand file, I
made slots so that I could adjust the apron to get the half-nuts
aligned with the leadscrew. I also loosened the gibs for the
half-nuts a bit as it lets the nuts engage the screw more
smoothly. Probably not the best solution, so I wouldn't recommend
that change unless you find it necessary. ![]() ![]()
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Re: New 7x12 delivered and on the bench.
On Fri, Apr 1, 2022 at 04:27 PM, Michael Jablonski wrote:
I for one don’t visit the Facebook 7x site and I know several others here who don’t. If it isn’t too much trouble I think the non-Facebook people in here would appreciate seeing your ‘discoveries’ posted here as well.
I am not at all a fan of Facebook, so don't get me wrong on that! I'll paste in a few of my 'Vevor discoveries' in a separate thread here.
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Re: New 7x12 delivered and on the bench.
I did not know a FB 7X mini-lathe group
existed, but I'm not surprised.?
I am uneducated (ignorant) tho, so
please educate me as well
.
John
On 4/1/2022 7:27 PM, Michael Jablonski
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I for one don’t visit the Facebook 7x site
and I know several others here who don’t. If it isn’t too much
trouble I think the non-Facebook people in here would
appreciate seeing your ‘discoveries’ posted here as well.
?
Michael - California, USA
Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16
LMS 3990 Hi-Torque Mill with power feed
?
?
?
?
On Thu, Mar 31, 2022 at 10:45 AM, MZ Rider
wrote:
Reckon I will need to do a bit of fitting
as a bit noisy using the main slide hand wheel near the head
stock.
I do not need a longer version so the 7x12 is enough for me,
also much cheaper than larger variations.?
Probably go for 4 jaw independent, maybe a quick change tool
post and thinking about a vertical table for milling.
Not likely to do much thread cutting but might look to
getting metal gears for the main drive. See how it goes.
I have a tachometer so will work out the approximate? speed
positions for the dial.
So any tips and points to really check out as I hopefully
have a closer look over the weekend.?
Your new lathe sounds a lot like the one
that was delivered to me a couple of days ago - a 'Vevor' 7x14
that was an impulse buy when I saw it @ $500 CAD (incl.
delivery) on walmart.ca.
I'm posting my 'discoveries' with it on the 7x lathe page on
Facebook, so I won't duplicate all that info here.
About the noise when moving the carriage with the handwheel-
That was one of the first 'problems' I noticed -? I found that
the alignment of the leadscrew to the half-nuts was the
problem - the threads in the half-nuts were rubbing on the
leadscrew even when they were supposed to be disengaged. NOt
good as it will wear the leadscrew and the half nuts. Also,
engaging the half-nuts (by turning the lever down) was pushing
(bending) the leadscrew. On my lathe the main problem was that
the two cap screws fixing the carriage to the apron were in
drilled holes with counterbores. On my 'other lathe', also a
7x14, those bolts rest in counterbored slots
so that the apron can be moved to align the half-nuts with the
leadscrew. With a Dremel grinder/end mill and a round hand
file, I made slots so that I could adjust the apron to get the
half-nuts aligned with the leadscrew. I also loosened the gibs
for the half-nuts a bit as it lets the nuts engage the screw
more smoothly. Probably not the best solution, so I wouldn't
recommend that change unless you find it necessary.
Attachments:
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Re: New 7x12 delivered and on the bench.
??? ??? Another cause of the lead screw problem is caused by the
leadscrew support on the right sode of the lathe not having it's
screw holes drilled correctly .
??? ??? animal
On 4/1/2022 3:08 PM, j_r_abercrombie
via groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Thu, Mar 31, 2022 at 10:45 AM, MZ Rider wrote:
Reckon I will need to do a bit of fitting as a bit
noisy using the main slide hand wheel near the head stock.
I do not need a longer version so the 7x12 is enough for me,
also much cheaper than larger variations.?
Probably go for 4 jaw independent, maybe a quick change tool
post and thinking about a vertical table for milling.
Not likely to do much thread cutting but might look to getting
metal gears for the main drive. See how it goes.
I have a tachometer so will work out the approximate? speed
positions for the dial.
So any tips and points to really check out as I hopefully have a
closer look over the weekend.?
Your new lathe sounds a lot like the one that was delivered to me
a couple of days ago - a 'Vevor' 7x14 that was an impulse buy when
I saw it @ $500 CAD (incl. delivery) on walmart.ca.
I'm posting my 'discoveries' with it on the 7x lathe page on
Facebook, so I won't duplicate all that info here.
About the noise when moving the carriage with the handwheel- That
was one of the first 'problems' I noticed -? I found that the
alignment of the leadscrew to the half-nuts was the problem - the
threads in the half-nuts were rubbing on the leadscrew even when
they were supposed to be disengaged. NOt good as it will wear the
leadscrew and the half nuts. Also, engaging the half-nuts (by
turning the lever down) was pushing (bending) the leadscrew. On my
lathe the main problem was that the two cap screws fixing the
carriage to the apron were in drilled holes with counterbores. On
my 'other lathe', also a 7x14, those bolts rest in counterbored slots
so that the apron can be moved to align the half-nuts with the
leadscrew. With a Dremel grinder/end mill and a round hand file, I
made slots so that I could adjust the apron to get the half-nuts
aligned with the leadscrew. I also loosened the gibs for the
half-nuts a bit as it lets the nuts engage the screw more
smoothly. Probably not the best solution, so I wouldn't recommend
that change unless you find it necessary.
Attachments:
|
Re: New 7x12 delivered and on the bench.
I for one don’t visit the Facebook 7x site and I know several others here who don’t. If it isn’t too much trouble I think the non-Facebook people in here would appreciate seeing your ‘discoveries’ posted here as well. ? Michael - California, USA Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16 LMS 3990 Hi-Torque Mill with power feed ? ? ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of j_r_abercrombie via groups.io Sent: Friday, April 1, 2022 3:09 PM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] New 7x12 delivered and on the bench. ? On Thu, Mar 31, 2022 at 10:45 AM, MZ Rider wrote: Reckon I will need to do a bit of fitting as a bit noisy using the main slide hand wheel near the head stock.
I do not need a longer version so the 7x12 is enough for me, also much cheaper than larger variations.?
Probably go for 4 jaw independent, maybe a quick change tool post and thinking about a vertical table for milling.
Not likely to do much thread cutting but might look to getting metal gears for the main drive. See how it goes.
I have a tachometer so will work out the approximate? speed positions for the dial.
So any tips and points to really check out as I hopefully have a closer look over the weekend.?
Your new lathe sounds a lot like the one that was delivered to me a couple of days ago - a 'Vevor' 7x14 that was an impulse buy when I saw it @ $500 CAD (incl. delivery) on walmart.ca.
I'm posting my 'discoveries' with it on the 7x lathe page on Facebook, so I won't duplicate all that info here.
About the noise when moving the carriage with the handwheel- That was one of the first 'problems' I noticed -? I found that the alignment of the leadscrew to the half-nuts was the problem - the threads in the half-nuts were rubbing on the leadscrew even when they were supposed to be disengaged. NOt good as it will wear the leadscrew and the half nuts. Also, engaging the half-nuts (by turning the lever down) was pushing (bending) the leadscrew. On my lathe the main problem was that the two cap screws fixing the carriage to the apron were in drilled holes with counterbores. On my 'other lathe', also a 7x14, those bolts rest in counterbored slots so that the apron can be moved to align the half-nuts with the leadscrew. With a Dremel grinder/end mill and a round hand file, I made slots so that I could adjust the apron to get the half-nuts aligned with the leadscrew. I also loosened the gibs for the half-nuts a bit as it lets the nuts engage the screw more smoothly. Probably not the best solution, so I wouldn't recommend that change unless you find it necessary. Attachments:
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Re: New 7x12 delivered and on the bench.
On Thu, Mar 31, 2022 at 10:45 AM, MZ Rider wrote:
Probably go for 4 jaw independent, maybe a quick change tool post and thinking about a vertical table for milling.
Not likely to do much thread cutting but might look to getting metal gears for the main drive. See how it goes.
I've only been using my 7x14 lathe for a couple of months, so I'm a real novice. I have purchased a lot of tooling and accessories, so a few thoughts: If you are thinking of another chuck, the 4-jaw is probably 'the next one on the list'. Did your lathe come with an 80mm or 100mm 3-jaw? The quick change (wedge type OXA) tool post and holders are a definite improvement and would be at the top of my list. I found the sloping holder (250-007?) for the parting tool to be useless as I couldn't get the parting blades to be on center. The 'bump' type knurling tool? that came in the set with the QCTP worked, but I think most people prefer a 'clamp' type knurler. So It might be more cost-effective to buy the toolpost and a handful of 250-001 & 250-002 holders separately. It's hard to have too many tool holders. :) Another thing for your list could be a live (spinning) center for the tailstock. The skinny type allows the tool to get closer to the tail end of the workpiece. If you are using a dead center, the 'half cut away' type can be useful if you need to cut right at the tail end of the work,too. Does your lathe have the 2-speed 'transmission' in the headstock? I bought? a milling attachment - it's a great tool for pointing out the lack of rigidity in the lathe setup. :)? I plan to use it if I can get the carriage and cross slide tightened up enough on the new lathe. And I am still waiting on delivery of cutter$.
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Re: New 7x12 delivered and on the bench.
On Thu, Mar 31, 2022 at 10:45 AM, MZ Rider wrote:
Reckon I will need to do a bit of fitting as a bit noisy using the main slide hand wheel near the head stock.
I do not need a longer version so the 7x12 is enough for me, also much cheaper than larger variations.?
Probably go for 4 jaw independent, maybe a quick change tool post and thinking about a vertical table for milling.
Not likely to do much thread cutting but might look to getting metal gears for the main drive. See how it goes.
I have a tachometer so will work out the approximate? speed positions for the dial.
So any tips and points to really check out as I hopefully have a closer look over the weekend.?
Your new lathe sounds a lot like the one that was delivered to me a couple of days ago - a 'Vevor' 7x14 that was an impulse buy when I saw it @ $500 CAD (incl. delivery) on walmart.ca. I'm posting my 'discoveries' with it on the 7x lathe page on Facebook, so I won't duplicate all that info here. About the noise when moving the carriage with the handwheel- That was one of the first 'problems' I noticed -? I found that the alignment of the leadscrew to the half-nuts was the problem - the threads in the half-nuts were rubbing on the leadscrew even when they were supposed to be disengaged. NOt good as it will wear the leadscrew and the half nuts. Also, engaging the half-nuts (by turning the lever down) was pushing (bending) the leadscrew. On my lathe the main problem was that the two cap screws fixing the carriage to the apron were in drilled holes with counterbores. On my 'other lathe', also a 7x14, those bolts rest in counterbored slots so that the apron can be moved to align the half-nuts with the leadscrew. With a Dremel grinder/end mill and a round hand file, I made slots so that I could adjust the apron to get the half-nuts aligned with the leadscrew. I also loosened the gibs for the half-nuts a bit as it lets the nuts engage the screw more smoothly. Probably not the best solution, so I wouldn't recommend that change unless you find it necessary.  
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Re: New 7x12 delivered and on the bench.
------- Original Message -------
On Friday, April 1st, 2022 at 12:27 PM, Bruce J <bruce.desertrat@...> wrote:
I'm a? learning newbie with the mini lathes, but I think I'm getting
better.? I haven't messed with the cross slide travel mod.? Only
mods I've made are a carriage lock and cover over the apron gears to
keep chips out. The lathe I have had a chip guard over the lead
screw but with the cover over the apron gears mod, the chip guard
over the lead screw no longer fits. The cover sticks out too far.
Still undecided on getting a larger bed. So far the lathe I have has
done anything I've wanted to do.
Think I'll stick with the plastic gears rather than go with the
metal gears.
I've noticed the grooved finish with the lathe I have when the lead
screw is engaged. Not so much when I turn the crank manually. Unsure
if it's due to the speed used, how I ground the HSS bits or what.?
Would be interested in more comments on that.? At first I ground the
bits with a bench grinder, but I started using a belt sander
afterwards.
Stan
Broken record time again :-) As a newbie myself, I definitely reccomend the book from Home Shop Machinist : The Complete Mini-lathe Workshop, by Ted Hansen
He has a project that covers the apron gears AND keeps the shield over the lead screw, (Apron mods chapter 4) and has a discussion of the grooved finish (Fine feeds and torque, chapter 24. IIRC some of it turned out to be some play in the leadscrew; the tool pulled itself along the work, then stopped and the lead screw would ‘catch up’ and start the tool moving again.)
?Many MANY other useful bits of info and projects.?
If you ground your tool to a sharp point, you’re going to get a rougher surface finish than if you grind a slight radius on the point, as well.?
Hi Bruce,
I have that book. I'll look at chapter 4, but there didn't seem to be enough clearance between the leadscrew shield and cover I made for the apron gears to keep the cover from binding with the leadscrew cover.
The rough finish maybe because of a sharp point. I'll take a diamond hone and make a radius on the point.
Thanks for the tips.
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Re: New 7x12 delivered and on the bench.
I'm a? learning newbie with the mini lathes, but I think I'm getting
better.? I haven't messed with the cross slide travel mod.? Only
mods I've made are a carriage lock and cover over the apron gears to
keep chips out. The lathe I have had a chip guard over the lead
screw but with the cover over the apron gears mod, the chip guard
over the lead screw no longer fits. The cover sticks out too far.
Still undecided on getting a larger bed. So far the lathe I have has
done anything I've wanted to do.
Think I'll stick with the plastic gears rather than go with the
metal gears.
I've noticed the grooved finish with the lathe I have when the lead
screw is engaged. Not so much when I turn the crank manually. Unsure
if it's due to the speed used, how I ground the HSS bits or what.?
Would be interested in more comments on that.? At first I ground the
bits with a bench grinder, but I started using a belt sander
afterwards.
Stan
Broken record time again :-) As a newbie myself, I definitely reccomend the book from Home Shop Machinist : The Complete Mini-lathe Workshop, by Ted Hansen
He has a project that covers the apron gears AND keeps the shield over the lead screw, (Apron mods chapter 4) and has a discussion of the grooved finish (Fine feeds and torque, chapter 24. IIRC some of it turned out to be some play in the leadscrew; the tool pulled itself along the work, then stopped and the lead screw would ‘catch up’ and start the tool moving again.)
?Many MANY other useful bits of info and projects.?
If you ground your tool to a sharp point, you’re going to get a rougher surface finish than if you grind a slight radius on the point, as well.?
--? Bruce Johnson
"Wherever you go, there you are." B. Banzai, PhD
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