Re: Rotary table with dividing plates
I did this one: ?
Really nice and easy to do.
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Re: Extending cross slide travel -- what is the currently accepted best method?
Ryan, I think that the normal size of the brass nut would not provide sufficient space to allow an insert. If you could fit a 3/4" block in the cross slide channel then maybe it could work and using the mounting screws to prevent insert rotation is a good idea.
The advantage of moving the nut to the end of the cross slide is that it enable a split delrin nut so if eventually some backlash occurs then it can be adjusted and the back lash eliminated. I have had the delrin nut in place for several years and I have never had to adjust out the backlash!!
I think it should be possible to attach a small shelf to the back of the standard OEM crosslide and then fit the split delrin nut to it.
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Re: Extending cross slide travel -- what is the currently accepted best method?
A couple of years back I bought some
longer cross slide screws off of eBay. I am not sure if they were
custom made or actual parts from other lathes.? I made a couple of
educated guesses on the Grizzly web site and bought 3-4 screws for
other models of similar overall appearance, but none were a match
in any respect --- Fatter shaft, different pitch, different thread
form, etc.
Does anyone have any ideas if these
screws are custom made or repurposed OEM parts from a different
model(s)?
John
On 2/20/2022 7:19 PM, Tony Jones wrote:
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I need to machine some wider material.
Googling I can find lots of approaches and I'm struggling with
what is considered the best approach in 2022 (ideas tend to
evolve).
Gordon Scotts:?
Gadget Builfers:???(extends
on above but incorporates a handle extension)
Twinsquirrel:??(handle
extension is frowned upon and there is mention of buying and
cutting down a longer screw from LMS).
Mikesworkshop:??(referenced
in the above madmodder,? made his own longer screw but at end
mentions not lengthening slot in carriage [hindsight]).
Maybe if I take everything apart and pour over the above 4
threads in more detail the subtleties of the differences would
become apparent,? but instead I thought I'd ask :-)
Thanks!
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Re: Rotary table with dividing plates
??? ??? That sounds interesting , I for one would like to see
your pictures Johannes .
??? thanks
??? animal
On 2/21/2022 11:35 AM, Johannes wrote:
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Hi
What are you thinking
about??
for me is a rotary table
2 main thing:
Home made of wood and
this fancy heavy ?ones ?with a crank.? (on my next charismas
whish list)
I can write a book about
the wood ones and add 100 of pictures (ok, don’t believe my
numbers) but I have used my home made dividing plates for a
generation. (First for making clock wheels.)
But today I use a wood
disk on the end of my lathe to drill holes into something I
put into my chuck.
?
More info, send a
picture.
?
/johannes
?
?
Sendt fr? for Windows
?
?
Is anyone using a rotary table with
dividing plates on the mini mill or mini lathe ? if so what
size are you using ?? Thank you for any information ?
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Re: Extending cross slide travel -- what is the currently accepted best method?
That's pretty slick Mike!??I thought about doing an insert for the nut because like you say, I don't think threading straight into the plastic would hold. My thought was to do an insert piece that would have a nice course outside thread, screwed into a block of steel or brass. The metal block would of course be the main holding but with the holes drilled all the way through the screws would serve to keep the insert from unscrewing from the block or a few other screws could be used expressly to keep the insert in place. I'd have to measure sometime but I think a 3/4" or so block would fit under the slide. I think that would be sufficient size to hold an insert?
Thoughts?
On Feb 21, 2022, 6:03 AM -0500, drmico60 via groups.io <mikey.cox@...>, wrote:
Ryan wrote:
I looked at the split nut mod but it didn't seem to keep adjustment all that well for Mike so I didn't do it. I'm hoping mine stays about the .008 I have now. I'll be happy with that :-). Perfect? No but a vast improvement over what I had before and I think if the thread was cut with the help of a traveling steady it would help the precision of the thread but again I don't have one of those.
For information:? I have since installed a Delrin nut on my minilathe which works very well and this eliminates backlash very effectively. Details of this mod are on my website, see:
Mike
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Re: Rotary table with dividing plates
Could you share some pictures and info on your homemade one?
On Mon, Feb 21, 2022, 2:36 PM Johannes < johannes@...> wrote: Hi What are you thinking about?? for me is a rotary table 2 main thing: Home made of wood and this fancy heavy ?ones ?with a crank.? (on my next charismas whish list) I can write a book about the wood ones and add 100 of pictures (ok, don’t believe my numbers) but I have used my home made dividing plates for a generation. (First for making clock wheels.) But today I use a wood disk on the end of my lathe to drill holes into something I put into my chuck. ? More info, send a picture. ? /johannes ? ? Sendt fr? for Windows ? ? Is anyone using a rotary table with dividing plates on the mini mill or mini lathe ? if so what size are you using ?? Thank you for any information ?
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Re: Rotary table with dividing plates
I use a small shop built dividing attachment to fit my mini-lathe. The headstock is worm gear driven. This unit fits right onto the minilathe and can divide just about any number of divisions. ?You could make your own easily following Ted Hansens plans from Home Shop Machinist.
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Re: Rotary table with dividing plates
Hi What are you thinking about?? for me is a rotary table 2 main thing: Home made of wood and this fancy heavy ?ones ?with a crank.? (on my next charismas whish list) I can write a book about the wood ones and add 100 of pictures (ok, don’t believe my numbers) but I have used my home made dividing plates for a generation. (First for making clock wheels.) But today I use a wood disk on the end of my lathe to drill holes into something I put into my chuck. ? More info, send a picture. ? /johannes ? ? Sendt fr? for Windows ? ? Is anyone using a rotary table with dividing plates on the mini mill or mini lathe ? if so what size are you using ?? Thank you for any information ?
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Rotary table with dividing plates
Is anyone using a rotary table with dividing plates on the mini mill or mini lathe ? if so what size are you using ?? Thank you for any information ?
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Re: Extending cross slide travel -- what is the currently accepted best method?
?Ryan wrote:
I looked at the split nut mod but it didn't seem to keep adjustment all that well for Mike so I didn't do it. I'm hoping mine stays about the .008 I have now. I'll be happy with that :-). Perfect???No but a vast improvement over what I had before and I think if the thread was cut with the help of a traveling steady it would help the precision of the thread but again I don't have one of those.?
For information:? I have since installed a Delrin nut on my minilathe which works very well and this eliminates backlash very effectively. Details of this mod are on my website, see:
Mike
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Re: Extending cross slide travel -- what is the currently accepted best method?
> For my needs, the LMS kit lacked extended travel away from the operator.
The LMS kit has alonger screw (which should preserve the same position as stock away from the operstor) while the longer slot brings the position closer.? I thought this was as good as it got?
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Re: Extending cross slide travel -- what is the currently accepted best method?
I'm sure you'll see why moving the nut back or extending the slot forward accomplishes the same thing as soon as you can physically see what is happening. Either one gives more room for the nut to travel towards the operator before it hits something. Hard to explain but much more obvious visually. You'll definitely have that Ah-ha! moment! :-)
I looked at the split nut mod but it didn't seem to keep adjustment all that well for Mike so I didn't do it. I'm hoping mine stays about the .008 I have now. I'll be happy with that :-). Perfect???No but a vast improvement over what I had before and I think if the thread was cut with the help of a traveling steady it would help the precision of the thread but again I don't have one of those.?
Ryan
On Feb 21, 2022, 1:44 AM -0500, Ryan H via groups.io <ifly172@...>, wrote:
For my needs, the LMS kit lacked extended travel away from the operator. I need to be able to move the tool holder past the chuck for a part I make. I have a fixture in a quick change tool holder that holds three small parts that get a 1.3mm slot milled it them. I put the end mill in the chuck and feed the parts past it to cut a screwdriver slot. Not optimal but when lacking a mill it works fairly well. And beats the way I was doing it, cutting a slot with a Dremel tool and filing each one by hand.?
Ryan
On Feb 21, 2022, 1:31 AM -0500, Tony Jones <tony@...>, wrote:
Ryan H wrote:
> I don't have access to a mill to cut the carriage and the LMS kit only addressed part of what I wanted to do so I did it all myself, on my lathe.
I have a mill, several.
Curious what was lacking in the LMS kit? it seems to achieve both more travel and relocating the travel. The same as "the Mike route". Obviously it's $$$ and not DIY
> What Mike means by "If I were doing this modification again then I would not mill out the carriage slot. Instead I would simply move the leadscrew nut 25 mm further back on the cross slide.
> This would achieve the same result as extending the slot" is that if you move the nut further back on the slide there's no need to mill out the slide. Moving the nut back accomplishes the same
> goal, giving the nut more room to travel towards the operator. Both ways effectively do the exact same thing and no milling is needed with just moving the nut farther back.
I understood the wording of what he wrote wrt accomplishing the same (and what you say isn't - no offense intended - any clearer) but I'm just not grokking it :-)? I suspect it won't make any sense until I take everything apart and re-read at which time I'll have an "ah ha!" moment.
I do like the idea of making a new screw from the perspective of also making a custom mated feed nut.? ? ? I'm assuming it would alleviate the need to do this:?
Thanks for the reply.
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Re: Extending cross slide travel -- what is the currently accepted best method?
For my needs, the LMS kit lacked extended travel away from the operator. I need to be able to move the tool holder past the chuck for a part I make. I have a fixture in a quick change tool holder that holds three small parts that get a 1.3mm slot milled it them. I put the end mill in the chuck and feed the parts past it to cut a screwdriver slot. Not optimal but when lacking a mill it works fairly well. And beats the way I was doing it, cutting a slot with a Dremel tool and filing each one by hand.?
Ryan
On Feb 21, 2022, 1:31 AM -0500, Tony Jones <tony@...>, wrote:
Ryan H wrote:
> I don't have access to a mill to cut the carriage and the LMS kit only addressed part of what I wanted to do so I did it all myself, on my lathe.
I have a mill, several.
Curious what was lacking in the LMS kit? it seems to achieve both more travel and relocating the travel. The same as "the Mike route". Obviously it's $$$ and not DIY
> What Mike means by "If I were doing this modification again then I would not mill out the carriage slot. Instead I would simply move the leadscrew nut 25 mm further back on the cross slide.
> This would achieve the same result as extending the slot" is that if you move the nut further back on the slide there's no need to mill out the slide. Moving the nut back accomplishes the same
> goal, giving the nut more room to travel towards the operator. Both ways effectively do the exact same thing and no milling is needed with just moving the nut farther back.
I understood the wording of what he wrote wrt accomplishing the same (and what you say isn't - no offense intended - any clearer) but I'm just not grokking it :-)? I suspect it won't make any sense until I take everything apart and re-read at which time I'll have an "ah ha!" moment.
I do like the idea of making a new screw from the perspective of also making a custom mated feed nut.? ? ? I'm assuming it would alleviate the need to do this:?
Thanks for the reply.
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Re: Extending cross slide travel -- what is the currently accepted best method?
Ryan H wrote:
>? I don't have access to a mill to cut the carriage and the LMS kit only addressed part of what I wanted to do so I did it all myself, on my lathe.?
I have a mill, several.? ??
Curious what was lacking in the LMS kit?? it seems to achieve both more travel and relocating the travel.? The same as "the Mike route".? Obviously it's $$$ and not DIY
> What Mike means by "If I were doing this modification again then I would not mill out the carriage slot. Instead I would simply move the leadscrew nut? 25 mm further back on the cross slide.
> This would achieve the same result as extending the slot"? is that if you move the nut further back on the slide there's no need to mill out the slide.? Moving the nut back accomplishes the same
> goal, giving the nut more room to travel towards the operator.? Both? ways effectively do the exact same thing and no milling is needed with just moving the nut farther back.
I understood the wording of what he wrote wrt accomplishing the same (and what you say isn't - no offense intended - any clearer) but I'm just not grokking it :-)? I suspect it won't make any sense until I take everything apart and re-read at which time I'll have an "ah ha!" moment.
I do like the idea of making a new screw from the perspective of also making a custom mated feed nut.? ? ? I'm assuming it would alleviate the need to do this:?
Thanks for the reply.
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Re: Extending cross slide travel -- what is the currently accepted best method?
I just finished up? an extended travel mod on my 7x a couple days ago. ?? I don't have access to a mill to cut the carriage and the LMS kit only addressed part of what I wanted to do so I did it all myself, on my lathe.? Mine ended up being pretty much what Mike did as I thought I had a new idea when I thought about moving the feed nut farther back on the carriage but it turns out Mike already had that idea, LOL!? I made my own spacer, 1.350" long from aluminum and drilled new mounting holes in the carriage that distance farther away from the operator.? That allows for the extended travel towards the operator.? I then made a new feed nut from 3/4" brass, mainly just because I wanted the nut and screw to be a "mated" pair.? The factory nut would work just fine.? For the feed screw I made one from a 12" piece of 12L14 steel.? By making my own new nut and screw I could thread the screw so it just fits the nut eliminating a lot of the backlash in the system without having to use the goofy factory adjusting system.? I ended up with a bit more than I wanted at around .008" but it's much improved. ? I originally thought about extending the original screw but in my opinion it was easier to turn a brand new one than try and extend the old one.? My screw is now about 10.5" long.???? :-D
What Mike means by "If I were doing this modification again then I would not mill out the carriage slot. Instead I would simply move the leadscrew nut? 25 mm further back on the cross slide. This would achieve the same result as extending the slot"? is that if you move the nut further back on the slide there's no need to mill out the slide.? Moving the nut back accomplishes the same goal, giving the nut more room to travel towards the operator.? Both? ways effectively do the exact same thing and no milling is needed with just moving the nut farther back.
Honestly, I have very... not even what I would call moderate skills, especially compared to many of the members here and this was a project that I was very capable of doing.? I bought 12" of brass and have 11" left and I bought 6 pieces of 12" 12L14 and have 5 of those left too.? I'm super happy with how it turned out.? Oh, the other thing I did buy for this project was live (rotating) center but it could be done with a dead center... but I wanted an excuse to buy live one, LOL.
My suggestion is to go the Mike route, moving the nut and make a new screw.? It was a fun project and my lathe has more capability than it did before.? Win Win situation!
Ryan
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Re: Extending cross slide travel -- what is the currently accepted best method?
My understanding is that the Gordon Scott mod moves the effective range of the leadscrew towards the operator (so you can cut wider material since you've moved the cut position relative to spindle).? However you're not gaining any additional travel.
has a so the effective range is increased plus moved towards the operator.
The Gadget Builder version appears to remedy try to increase the travel by adding an extension to the front of the shaft (which I presume is shown exposed out of the spacer in this image):??
This idea of a shaft extension is poo-poo'd on the?madmodder.page,? they seem to recommend a longer screw instead such as the above LMS.
I'm not understanding the "If I were doing this modification again then I would not mill out the carriage slot. Instead I would simply move the leadscrew nut? 25 mm further back on the cross slide. This would achieve the same result as extending the slot" comment on the?mikesworkshop page.
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Re: Extending cross slide travel -- what is the currently accepted best method?
I did Gordon Scott's method years ago & have been pleased with it.
Roy
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Re: Turning Brass and Aluminum on a 7x14
A wrap or 2 of adhesive backed aluminum tape (real duct tape) around the work or on the ends of the chuck jaws.
Pet peeve - there's no need to quench brass to anneal it! About the only things you're likely to run across that are affected by quenching are iron alloys & a few aluminum alloys; everything else can be cooled at any rate by whatever is the most convenient, keeping in mind that quenching can warp things.
Roy
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I replied to an ancient post.? My bad.? ?Brain in neutral.? Ignore.
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You probably paid for it when you paid for your inside track membership. It’s 10% to us losers that don’t join their club. ? Sent from for Windows ?
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From: Tony JonesSent: Sunday, February 20, 2022 6:29 PM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] 20% H F coupon ? I thought HF had pretty much eliminated the 20%.? ?
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OldToolmaker
Johannes
