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I part Al all the time with little problem...

I have had great success with a parting-off tool that takes a push-in insert (all metals). Always do it close to the chuck and never with a fixed steady or a tailstock centre. Rgrds MFS E-mail:

Once I parted aluminium successfuly, like a piece of butter, since then I have had to use a hack saw for aluminium or steel. [email protected]> wrote:

Yesterday I had to part off some aluminum (6061), 24mm diameter, and remembered that I had had endless trouble previously with this operation - regardless of material. So this time I took off the

I dunno what's up with that hex rod but I did something similar to address backlash in the lead screw.? I didn't use angular contact bearings, I used thrust bearings.? I did it by machining a

OK, that works. Yes, I Have seen this. That guy does some fabulous stuff. I have been subscribed for quite a while. Thanks. Sent from ProtonMail, Swiss-based encrypted email. Sent with Proton Mail

It's not you , it's me . that means that I sent a machining link to a bunch of buds instead of the music link I thought I was sending . try this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vWxFFxYfw-Y For some

Is it just me? I'm not seeing any kind of link. Youtube or something? Sent from ProtonMail, Swiss-based encrypted email. Sent with Proton Mail secure email.

I just kinda tripped over this earlier tonite? figured there may be some vids here that some of ya folks may be interested in . this is the one I watched , but the guy/gal has lots of good vids

The basic problem is the design of the carriage!? The vertical play is adjusted with clamp & jack screws vaguely locating the clamp strips on the underside of the bed; that's common on larger lathes,

I made something similar for one particular application and find I use it quite a bit for general turning. Mark

I have made 2 new and longer pressboards under the saddle in both x directions. They have also contact on outside to saddle. 2 of the 3 fasten screws on the front are now available from upper side for

That could be related to play in the saddle gibs. [email protected]> wrote:

Has somebody made a lead screw to be installed in the middle of the bed ? I have looked into Youtube, but not found what I wanted. The problem is twisting of the saddle when I return the clock wheel

Drilling a 486 CPU is like drilling glass, the 486 is probably harder. Same technique would be needed, diamond drill, water, patience etc. Here’s an old page for making a keychain from a 486,

It also reduces the heat generated in the tooth and washes away the swarf from the operation. Ultrasonic drills also use a mist spray for these same reasons (but they don’t utilize diamonds bonded

Diamond abrasive bits are actually diamond powder mechanically attached, not chemically bonded, to the bit body with nickel plating. When your dentist uses them, notice there's always a cooling water

HEURELA? ?TONY JUST? WELDING? SOME? HOICK AND? THAT? IT? THANK JACK 47 71

Depends on the age on the CPU. Most CPUs up to the first Pentiums were all ceramic – have fun drilling thru that. Later ones shrunk the ceramic bit and have a “moat” of maybe 5-15mm of PCB that

maybe a 44 mag animal