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Re: lathe table
Randal Williams
A mixture of Simple Green and Dawn work great as a cleaner for the epoxy.? If you work in your garage and prone to dropping small parts on the floor, like myself, those little paint chips they provide to help break up the color are your worst enemy.? It is amazing how it helps to hide small parts like scope mounting screws and springs. -rw From: Vince Vielhaber To: "7x12minilathe@..." <7x12minilathe@...> Sent: Friday, October 14, 2011 10:28 AM Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: lathe table
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Well I'm glad I didn't put it on my floor then. I clean alot of oily things with brake clean and don't always do it over the sink. On Fri, 14 Oct 2011, Randal Williams wrote: > The drying time of the epoxy when you roll it on the floor is stated to be 7 days.? I have done three different garages with the stuff.? You can get it to dissolve with carb or brake cleaner if you are not careful.? The recommendation for putting a large aluminum pan under the lathe is excellent. > > -rw > > > > ________________________________ > From: Vince Vielhaber <vev@...> > To: 7x12minilathe@... > Sent: Friday, October 14, 2011 9:35 AM > Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: lathe table > > > ? > > I'm just throwing this out there 'cuze I don't know how well it would > work on MDF, but what about epoxy, like you use on cement floors. It > would certainly seal and protect it. > > On Fri, 14 Oct 2011, mattdbartlett wrote: > >> Hmm, MDF is pretty delicate. You might want to think about covering that with something else, like a piece of galvanized, or a sheet of masonite. If you just want to protect from oil (mdf is pretty absorbent), maybe a couple coats of water based polyurethane. That should make the mdf a little tougher if you stick with just the plain mdf. >> >> --- In 7x12minilathe@..., george curtis wrote: >>> >>> my bil is gonna put my lathe table together for me. we are wanting to know what >>> is best to protect the table, mdf, before we put the lathe on. >>> thanks, >>> ? >>> george >>> >> >> >> >> >> ------------------------------------ >> >> Yahoo! Groups Links >> >> >> >> > > Vince. > -- > Michigan VHF Corp. http://www.nobucks.net/ http://www.CDupe.com/ > Vince. -- Michigan VHF Corp. |
Re: lathe table
Well I'm glad I didn't put it on my floor then. I clean alot of oily
things with brake clean and don't always do it over the sink. On Fri, 14 Oct 2011, Randal Williams wrote: The drying time of the epoxy when you roll it on the floor is stated to be 7 days.? I have done three different garages with the stuff.? You can get it to dissolve with carb or brake cleaner if you are not careful.? The recommendation for putting a large aluminum pan under the lathe is excellent. Vince. -- Michigan VHF Corp. |
Re: Finally, a project!
Jerry Durand
On 10/14/2011 09:41 AM, John Brookes wrote:
I just jumped in here. The machining of the brass mortar barrel interesting. I notice he made a cutting tool from heating and quenching ordinary CRS. Is this generally possible?You'd want seamless ductile pipe, like hot roll but without the weld. Cold rolled has a nasty tendency to crack/shatter under explosive loads. This doesn't keep people from making guns out of DOM tube, it's just not the safest it could be. I do professional fireworks and we use seamless HDPE tubes for our guns because it will stretch and tear (like hot roll and brass), not shatter and throw shrapnel. Steel guns used for the larger shells are buried in the ground or in a 55 gallon drum of sand since we normally can't get seemless tube in large IDs (up to 24"). -- Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886 Skype: jerrydurand |
Re: lathe table
Randal Williams
The drying time of the epoxy when you roll it on the floor is stated to be 7 days.? I have done three different garages with the stuff.? You can get it to dissolve with carb or brake cleaner if you are not careful.? The recommendation for putting a large aluminum pan under the lathe is excellent. -rw From: Vince Vielhaber To: 7x12minilathe@... Sent: Friday, October 14, 2011 9:35 AM Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: lathe table
?
I'm just throwing this out there 'cuze I don't know how well it would work on MDF, but what about epoxy, like you use on cement floors. It would certainly seal and protect it. On Fri, 14 Oct 2011, mattdbartlett wrote: > Hmm, MDF is pretty delicate. You might want to think about covering that with something else, like a piece of galvanized, or a sheet of masonite. If you just want to protect from oil (mdf is pretty absorbent), maybe a couple coats of water based polyurethane. That should make the mdf a little tougher if you stick with just the plain mdf. > > --- In 7x12minilathe@..., george curtis >> >> my bil is gonna put my lathe table together for me. we are wanting to know what >> is best to protect the table, mdf, before we put the lathe on. >> thanks, >> ? >> george >> > > > > > ------------------------------------ > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > Vince. -- Michigan VHF Corp. http://www.nobucks.net/ http://www.CDupe.com/ |
Re: Finally, a project!
I just jumped in here. The machining of the brass mortar barrel interesting. I notice he made a cutting tool from heating and quenching ordinary CRS. Is this generally possible?
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Of course, brass is soft, and thats why he can get away with it. If you were making a mortar with modern materials, wouldn't you just use steel pipe? In WW2, the military used light weight mortars. How did they overcome the problem of excessive weight which plagued these CW pieces? JB On Oct 14, 2011, at 11:16 AM, ralph_pattersonus wrote:
I think this is the project that was referred to... |
Re: lathe table
I'm just throwing this out there 'cuze I don't know how well it would
work on MDF, but what about epoxy, like you use on cement floors. It would certainly seal and protect it. On Fri, 14 Oct 2011, mattdbartlett wrote: Hmm, MDF is pretty delicate. You might want to think about covering that with something else, like a piece of galvanized, or a sheet of masonite. If you just want to protect from oil (mdf is pretty absorbent), maybe a couple coats of water based polyurethane. That should make the mdf a little tougher if you stick with just the plain mdf. Vince. -- Michigan VHF Corp. |
Re: lathe table
mattdbartlett
Hmm, MDF is pretty delicate. You might want to think about covering that with something else, like a piece of galvanized, or a sheet of masonite. If you just want to protect from oil (mdf is pretty absorbent), maybe a couple coats of water based polyurethane. That should make the mdf a little tougher if you stick with just the plain mdf.
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--- In 7x12minilathe@..., george curtis <gcvisalia@...> wrote:
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Re: Finally, a project!
I think this is the project that was referred to...
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--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "MERTON B BAKER" <mertbaker@...> wrote:
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Re: used minilathes
¿ªÔÆÌåÓý
The new brushless motor"super"? versions of the mini-lathe are far more capable in the power and torque department than the older DC controlled versions (which are still available at a cheaper price)). The two speed gears are not missed and the torque is much superior at all speeds, especially when large diameter low speed is required. The risk of overheating in those conditions is less than the older models Gerry Leeds UK To: 7x12minilathe@... From: my340sixpak@... Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2011 12:27:46 +0000 Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: used minilathes ?
Im not sure having only 500 watts with no low gear is a good build IMHO, at low spindle rpm there is hardly any fan cooling going on in the motor. --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Jim Dunmyer" wrote: > > Be aware that the present MM lathe is a 7X16 that sells for $795.00. It has > a 500 watt brushless motor and no gear shift, so is a bit quieter than most > others. The usual accessories are included: wrenches, change gears, and > outside chuck jaws. The tailstock is a cam-lock design, and there is an > OPTIONAL tachometer. The full info is here: > > > A year or so ago, MM sold a 7X14 lathe that had a slightly smaller motor > with a gear shift that uses metal gears. It's a bit noisier than the models > with plastic gears, albeit should be a bit more durable. The digital > tachometer was builtin and included, tailstock was camlock. It sold for > $595.00, and included the above accessories. > > Both lathes are "True Inch", so there is no error in the cross-slide and > compound lead screws, the travel is .050" per revolution. Most others use a > metric thread that gives you pretty close to .040"/rev. > > I bought my MM 7X14 in like-new condition from a fella who had picked it up > in a trade. Unfortunately, both of us confused it with the 7X16, so I paid > too much. However, I AM happy with the machine. My previous one was a H.F. > 7X10, and the lack of "headroom" bugged me. I was otherwise quite happy with > the lathe. > > To answer your question, the price would depend on which one it is. A fair > price for a like-new machine (to me) would be list minus $100.00 ->$200.00. > > Dunno about metric lathes, but if you want to cut metric threads, you can > get "close enough" for many threads with the stock gears. Add a 21-tooth > gear into the mix and you can get "close enough" for a bunch more threads. > See: > > > In my experience, the MM lathes need the same TLC by the new owner as any of > the others of this genre. > > > <> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> From: "gwelo62" <gwelo62@...> > To: <7x12minilathe@...> > Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2011 3:03 PM > Subject: [7x12minilathe] used minilathes > > > > What is a fair price for a used micromark lathe? It looks almost unused. > > > > Are any of the US importers bringing in metric lathes? > > > > > > > > > |
Re: used minilathes
Im not sure having only 500 watts with no low gear is a good build IMHO, at low spindle rpm there is hardly any fan cooling going on in the motor.
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--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Jim Dunmyer" <jdunmyer@...> wrote:
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Re: Finally, a project!
MERTON B BAKER
Between centers only, & it's still a stunt, no practical use. Mert
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-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of my340sixpak Sent: Friday, October 14, 2011 8:21 AM To: 7x12minilathe@... Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Finally, a project! LOL, SKY HOOKS,, LOL, plus the chuck jaws would slam the bed 3 or 4 times a rotate ;) --- In 7x12minilathe@..., Andrew Franks <andyf1108@...> wrote: fit over the cross-slide (or even over the carriage). And to bore it, you would need a boring bar 12" long, so to start at the outer end, your toolpost would need to be at least 24" from the headstock end of the workpiece, and would need skyhooks for support. some of the parts at least. a piece of 1018 steel round stock that is precisely that size? (7" round by 12" long). That's the largest piece of the project. All other parts I have no doubt about the lathe being useable. If it won't work, I'll have to farm out at least that one part. stock (if such a chuck exists, which is my next question), but will the lathe do this job without destroying itself?
------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links |
Re: Finally, a project!
MERTON B BAKER
I have a 2" x 24" boring bar, which I used to do the cannons. Still a reach
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on a 12x36, & requires a jig. I had a friend with a 2.5" dia. gun drill to ease the labor. Mert -----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of "hanermo" - CNC 6-axis Designs Sent: Friday, October 14, 2011 7:51 AM To: 7x12minilathe@... Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Finally, a project! Agree 100% with Mert. I could do it with a 7x - but would not. It would involve building an external toolrest, and using a linear slide to control the toolbit. The linear slide, new, costs more than a 7x. The work involved would be maybe 100 hours.. by my estimate. I could do it with my 12x, but might not. The bore is too deep for easy work. Ie it IS doable, but far too big/heavy/hard/slow. I would search for someone who has a 2" thick boring bar, and this is work for industrial lathes in the 14x/3000 kg sizes, and above. For my 12x I have a 1" one, and 1.5" ones are available. Making one is not impractical, also. Practical work sizes for a 7x are about 3" in steel, just like any lathe. About half of nominal swing. At a pinch, near nominal is doable, but very slow (everything is relative.) Boring that much metal on a big industrial lathe will probably take 3-4 hours. 12" deep means the cuts need to be light, maybe no more than 1 mm DOC or depth, at a slow feed rate, to avoid excessive chatter. If the total amount to be removed is say 6" or 140 mm, that means 70 passes at maybe 5 minutes per pass (could be a lot more, especially on the later ones where rpm will be about 150). You did not mention how thick the walls need to be, I guesstimeate at 0.5 inches. That might be 350 minutes, or almost 6 hours. Could be more. Of course, the first 6" depth could be taken at 2-4 mm depths of cut, if the lathe is a big enough one. You will likely get your best price from a hobby semicommercial guy, who will do it for 10-20-30$/hr. They will take a full day, but wont be in a hurry, and the job might tax their machines. An industrial shop is likely to want 60$/hr x 3-4 hrs .. Let us know how it goes, pics please .. Rome was no built in a day. I was not the foreman on that job though, and I have advice. Keep your 7x12 for a while, buy a few books, (I'm making a list, but there are some out there already) Play with your lathe, and make a few projects. Find something to make that turns you on, and if it's too big to fit on your 7x lathe build a working model that will. After 60 years in this game, I can say that if you are really interested, nothing can stop you. Mert |
Re: Finally, a project!
LOL, SKY HOOKS,, LOL, plus the chuck jaws would slam the bed 3 or 4 times a rotate ;)
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--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Andrew Franks <andyf1108@...> wrote:
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Re: Finally, a project!
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýAgree 100% with Mert.I could do it with a 7x - but would not. It would involve building an external toolrest, and using a linear slide to control the toolbit. The linear slide, new, costs more than a 7x. The work involved would be maybe 100 hours.. by my estimate. I could do it with my 12x, but might not. The bore is too deep for easy work. Ie it IS doable, but far too big/heavy/hard/slow. I would search for someone who has a 2" thick boring bar, and this is work for industrial lathes in the 14x/3000 kg sizes, and above. For my 12x I have a 1" one, and 1.5" ones are available. Making one is not impractical, also. Practical work sizes for a 7x are about 3" in steel, just like any lathe. About half of nominal swing. At a pinch, near nominal is doable, but very slow (everything is relative.) Boring that much metal on a big industrial lathe will probably take 3-4 hours. 12" deep means the cuts need to be light, maybe no more than 1 mm DOC or depth, at a slow feed rate, to avoid excessive chatter. If the total amount to be removed is say 6" or 140 mm, that means 70 passes at maybe 5 minutes per pass (could be a lot more, especially on the later ones where rpm will be about 150). You did not mention how thick the walls need to be, I guesstimeate at 0.5 inches. That might be 350 minutes, or almost 6 hours. Could be more. Of course, the first 6" depth could be taken at 2-4 mm depths of cut, if the lathe is a big enough one. You will likely get your best price from a hobby semicommercial guy, who will do it for 10-20-30$/hr. They will take a full day, but wont be in a hurry, and the job might tax their machines. An industrial shop is likely to want 60$/hr x 3-4 hrs .. Let us know how it goes, pics please .. ? |
Re: Finally, a project!
MERTON B BAKER
Rome was no built in a day. I was not the foreman on that job though, and I
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have advice. Keep your 7x12 for a while, buy a few books, (I'm making a list, but there are some out there already) Play with your lathe, and make a few projects. Find something to make that turns you on, and if it's too big to fit on your 7x lathe build a working model that will. After 60 years in this game, I can say that if you are really interested, nothing can stop you. Mert Hardwick Machine "If you can pay, I can build it." -----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of nissan.370z Sent: Friday, October 14, 2011 12:15 AM To: 7x12minilathe@... Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Finally, a project! Surely need a larger lathe for that. Sounds like you are very new to lathes like myself. Find some smaller projects to do, so you can learn more about lathes and machining. Ask questions along the way etc., this way later on if you decide to buy a larger lathe you will know much more and be able to get use out of it right away. I was going to wait till I had more room for a used SouthBend lathe much larger than the 7x12 I purchased or get a 10x20 to start, but didn't want to spend the money on a larger lathe when I have never used one yet (nor don't really have the extra room for a large lathe "yet"). I have many small projects to do and hope by the time I buy a large lathe I will be somewhat knowledgeable with lathes and machining. So the more expensive lathe gets used more and I can enjoy it. good thing is, if you later upgrade to a larger lathe; these small lathes seem to hold their value VERY well as I have seen used ones selling for recently. I want to convert mine to CNC when I get a larger one though. --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "wy3xinsc" <wy3xinsc@...> wrote: some of the parts at least. a piece of 1018 steel round stock that is precisely that size? (7" round by 12" long). That's the largest piece of the project. All other parts I have no doubt about the lathe being useable. If it won't work, I'll have to farm out at least that one part. stock (if such a chuck exists, which is my next question), but will the lathe do this job without destroying itself?
------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links |
Re: Finally, a project!
MERTON B BAKER
Interesting. Making beer can mortars is where my experience in this from.
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I'm set up to bore 'em. Mert -----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of Web Williams Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2011 8:18 PM To: 7x12minilathe@... Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Finally, a project! Thanks for all the suggestions. I guess I don't have much choice but to farm this work out. Due to the nature of the project (Coehorn mortar barrel) it's not possible (from a safety standpoint) to substitute a tube and cap. The powder chamber requires a certain amount of web to retain the pressure. Back to the grindstone, thanks everyone!!! -Web (in Myrtle Beach, SC) ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links |
Re: Finally, a project!
MERTON B BAKER
7X12 is the "Envelope". Actually understated; you could, I you had eaten
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your Wheaties regularly, put a 7" dia. piece of steel shaft 14" long between centers on a 7x"12", if you took the carriage off. I can tell you from experience that such an object is not easy to pick up and put on the machine, having turned and bored a few similar objects on my 12x36. (mortar cannons) Pix? It would easily outweigh any of the 7x12s. All work on a lathe has to be done within this envelope, which, if you look carefully at the specs includes a "Swing over Cross Slide" item, which is the real diameter limit. Mert -----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of Charles Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2011 7:34 PM To: 7x12minilathe@... Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Finally, a project! All good answers: You are now being introduced to the "specsmanship" of lathe specifications. Actually, if you removed the saddle, you probably could get a 7 inch by 12 inch cylinder between centers going round and round. But about all you could do is watch it. Another way to look at lathe specifications is that you could turn something 12 inches long, or 7 inches diameter (with great difficulty), but not both. Choose one. Actually, the clearance over the ways is usually most meaningful when needing to clear a large part while turning or boring a much smaller diameter of it. Drilling a hole in a large disk is an obvious example. But boring the cylinder hole in a steam engine casting is another. The size of the casting may not clear the compound, but might clear the ways so you would be in good shape. Except for certain situations where you are willing to take on extra grief, a good rule of thumb is to get a lathe with twice the swing of the largest diameter you will routinely be turning. Or for the occasional situation beyond the machine, find somebody with a machine that is big enough. Or find a way to design around it. For example, maybe what you need could be handled with a length of tube somebody could cut and you could make end caps to weld in. (I know that probably isn't a solution in your case, but making a fabrication of more manageable parts is sometimes a solution.) Chuck K. --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "MERTON B BAKER" <mertbaker@...> wrote: is theoretically possible to turn a 7" flywheel, you will find that gettingthe toolbit onto the surface is tricky, and necessitates rigging a specialtool post. another limitation on large diameter work is power. Cutting ratessome of the parts at least.a piece of 1018 steel round stock that is precisely that size? (7" round byfarm out at least that one part. ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links |
Re: lathe table
lists
In article <1318555072.12671.YahooMailNeo@...>,
Frank <usarmyfly@...> wrote: I have a free counter top off of Craigslist. Works well so far.My bench top is a laminated Beech* kitchen worktop from Ikea. It was protected by giving several applications of Linseed oil. It works very well. *The type of thing where they take small blocks of wood and glue them together on edge and end to make up a large piece. -- Stuart |
Re: My new Grizzly Lathe damaged in shipping, what to do and look for?
nissan.370z
Their tech is recommending replacement to the shipping department. There seems to be a light pulsating when in reverse, shaking the machine a little and when the switch is 100% for sure on off, I closed the emergency stop and it came on for a few seconds and started spinning!
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I guess replacement is all I will accept at this point. --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "nissan.370z" <ebandit@...> wrote:
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Re: Finally, a project!
nissan.370z
Surely need a larger lathe for that. Sounds like you are very new to lathes like myself. Find some smaller projects to do, so you can learn more about lathes and machining. Ask questions along the way etc., this way later on if you decide to buy a larger lathe you will know much more and be able to get use out of it right away.
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I was going to wait till I had more room for a used SouthBend lathe much larger than the 7x12 I purchased or get a 10x20 to start, but didn't want to spend the money on a larger lathe when I have never used one yet (nor don't really have the extra room for a large lathe "yet"). I have many small projects to do and hope by the time I buy a large lathe I will be somewhat knowledgeable with lathes and machining. So the more expensive lathe gets used more and I can enjoy it. good thing is, if you later upgrade to a larger lathe; these small lathes seem to hold their value VERY well as I have seen used ones selling for recently. I want to convert mine to CNC when I get a larger one though. --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "wy3xinsc" <wy3xinsc@...> wrote:
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