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On Mon, Apr 09, 2007 at 10:02:50PM -0000, Ian Foster wrote:

G'day Chris,
You need to taper the work piece to start with so do this by the offset
tail stock method. Follow by cutting your thread with the same lathe
settings.

How do you firmly hold the work in the chuck when you've got the tailstock
centre offset?

A taper attachment controlling the cross slide, but I don't think many
people have them.

CHEAT! Use pipe threading dies; traditional water pipe threads were
tapered. Go to your local plumber.

Managed to buy an imperial tap/die set with a 1/8" NPT die in it this
afternoon.

Try Googling Tool Timez; they export to Oz from the UK. You could mail
order from Ozmestore in Oz, try them on eBay; I get good stuff from them.

Thanks. Just got a lead locally so I'll chase that one first.

Chris
--
Chris Eilbeck
MARS Flight Crew
UKRA #1108 Level 2 UYB
Tripoli UK Member #9527 LSMR

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@...> wrote:

It's not the one I used years back which went milky-white with
water. The EP690 apparently goes translucent blue. Is that your
recollection? But if it works and is available...

Blackwoods list it in 4 and 20 litre containers.

It certainly started off a translucent blue when mixed. The stuff
that was in the machine tanks looked like cyan coloured milk (ugh!),
but just how long some of that stuff in those tanks had been there
would be anyone's guess...

Cheers,
Andrew.

G'day all
Mike said: "..learn how to use the lathe making projects that don't
require extreme accuracy. Your skills will keep improving..
...by the time the lathe's misalignments start to really cramp the
way you use it, you'll be skilled enough that tweaking it will be
fairly easy"
PEARLS OF WISDOM.
IMHO the least accurate part of the lathe, even out of the box, is
just in front of the cross slide feed handle.

Also ,as your skill increases you will learn to work around the
idiosyncrsies. Finally they will bug you too much and then you'll
tackle the problem.

The old adage; measure twice, cut once applies; assume nothing.

One good turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian

That's the way I did it, fixing the inner locknut with Loctite so the
outer one can be used for mounting my handcrank (and several other
accessories). I wrote something on how to make it some time ago, and put
a picture in the photo section under "Mike T's Stuff," but it was a reply
to someone's question on doing heavy cuts, so the title isn't helpful to
retrieve it. Here it is again with an appropriate title.

Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@...

Everyone has his reasons.
- Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"

-------------

Another way to do heavy work is by dispensing with the motor and putting
a crank on the spindle. Most of these designs connect to the spindle by
some kind of expanding plug in the bore, but I made one that would leave
the bore open for work so I made one that fastens to the outside of the
spindle using one of the spindle lock nuts What I did was to lock the
inside nut with Loctite so the outside one is no longer needed and I can
use it to hold items on the crank by pinching them between the two nuts.
Here's a photo of my crank. It's made of two pieces of 2" angle iron,
one bored to fit on the spindle and the other drilled for the arm of the
crank. I epoxied these together with JB Weld to move the arm out enough
out to clear the gears. (A crank on the outside has to be designed to
clear gears in the "A" position, so you can cut threads with the crank.
I made this crank so it would clear a 60-tooth gear, which I doubt I'll
ever need to exceed.

The arm itself is made of wood and held on with 4 bolts, and the handle
is a steel tube that's a loose running fit over a lag screw (with the
hex-head filed round) that's screwed and epoxied into the end of the
arm. I made the arm of wood to save metal and also so I could reuse this
handle, which I made for my original crank (which was entirely made of
wood and would be satisfactory for light duty). You can get different
lengths of crank for leverage by drilling multiple holes in the wooden
part. The black thing on the left is an old footpeg rubber from my
motorcycle, which I put on the handle of the crank when I'm doing REALLY
heavy cuts to save wear & tear on my hand. With this crank, I can turn
iron and steel up to the full 7" swing of the lathe.

When using any crank, you should move the high/low lever to the middle
position. That way, if you accidentally turn the motor on without
removing the crank, it will spin harmlessly. Also, the crank turns
easier with the motor and its gears out of the system.


Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@...

Everyone has his reasons.
- Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"

On Tue, 27 Mar 2007 01:42:16 -0000 "born4something"
<ajs@...> writes:

Unless this 5.5" rod is something critical for a project you're doing, I
would forget about theoretical misalignments of things at this point
(except the tailstock, which is always wrong horizontally and often wrong
vertically by huge amounts). Instead, learn how to use the lathe making
projects that don't require extreme accuracy. Your skills will keep
improving, and by the time the lathe's misalignments start to really
cramp the way you use it, you'll be skilled enough that tweaking it will
be fairly easy.

Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@...

Everyone has his reasons.
- Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"


On Sat, 24 Mar 2007 22:49:09 -0000 "wrlabs" <wrlabs@...> writes:

I can be a little thick, but I think I finally got it. Good advice on
the switch - I didn't think of the consequences flipping it while
running. Thanks, Ian.

G'day Chris,
You need to taper the work piece to start with so do this by the offset
tail stock method. Follow by cutting your thread with the same lathe
settings.

A taper attachment controlling the cross slide, but I don't think many
people have them.

CHEAT! Use pipe threading dies; traditional water pipe threads were
tapered. Go to your local plumber.

Try Googling Tool Timez; they export to Oz from the UK.
You could mail order from Ozmestore in Oz, try them on eBay; I get good
stuff from them.

One good turn deserves another,
Regards
Ian

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Chris Eilbeck <chris@...> wrote:

Is it possible to turn a tapered thread on the mini-lathe? I'm

thinking

something like a 1/8" NPT external thread.

Cheers

Chris

PS Clues about where to buy an internal threading tool in the UK

would be

useful too.
--
Chris Eilbeck
MARS Flight Crew
UKRA #1108 Level 2 UYB
Tripoli UK Member #9527 LSMR

G'day Ed.
THe meter looks nice, but whenever you are doing any heavy work it
will be reading in the uncalibrated over range area. Does MPJA have a
0-6 amp meter with over range? Minimum meter must be 0-5 amps with
over range scale.
You really want to know the stall current which can be up to two
times the nameplate current. loading the drive to just under this
gets best use fo the lathe.
To be of more than pose value the meter needs to be where you can see
it as you operate the feed screws.

Meters are designed to be left in circuit. (multimeters are not)

A switch is NOT RECOMMENDED unless it simply shorts out the meter.
The motor cicuit must not be interrupted during operation and the
spdt switch you propose would open the circuit mometarilly, enough to
harm the drive.

One good turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian

- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Ed" <edo@...> wrote:

"Does it matter if the meter is on the + or - side?"

The reason I asked was to determine whether or not I could put the
meter between the Direction Switch and the Motor. Since the switch

(I

assume) reverses polarity, I now know it'll only work there in one
direction.

I convinced myself that I can get away with a 5A meter instead of

ten,

but now that I see my motor is rated at 3A (regardless of voltage),
I'm looking at a 3A one with a red over-range scale.


Do you think this one would work? I think it would look pretty good
mounted in the side of the electronics box (and we all know it's all
about aesthetics.) I'd mount a SPDT switch with it to turn it off

when

I'm not using it just in case it doesn't like being on for long

periods.

Ed

Is it possible to turn a tapered thread on the mini-lathe? I'm thinking
something like a 1/8" NPT external thread.

Cheers

Chris

PS Clues about where to buy an internal threading tool in the UK would be
useful too.
--
Chris Eilbeck
MARS Flight Crew
UKRA #1108 Level 2 UYB
Tripoli UK Member #9527 LSMR

"Does it matter if the meter is on the + or - side?"

The reason I asked was to determine whether or not I could put the
meter between the Direction Switch and the Motor. Since the switch (I
assume) reverses polarity, I now know it'll only work there in one
direction.

I convinced myself that I can get away with a 5A meter instead of ten,
but now that I see my motor is rated at 3A (regardless of voltage),
I'm looking at a 3A one with a red over-range scale.


Do you think this one would work? I think it would look pretty good
mounted in the side of the electronics box (and we all know it's all
about aesthetics.) I'd mount a SPDT switch with it to turn it off when
I'm not using it just in case it doesn't like being on for long periods.

Ed

The tool used to drill a deep straight hole is a D bit. You can see
what a D bit looks like at this site:


There used to be info on making D bits on some of the yahoo groups
dedicated to metal working.

Charlie

FYI, the waiting list appears to be at
,
however, it seems to be of 0 length. So it looks like there's no
waiting. :)



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal"
<roylowenthal@...> wrote:

You can open it up to 13/16". In the "links" section of the 7x10

group

there's something for "Al's Reamer", since it was Varmint Al who
started the whole thing. There are a couple of reamers circulating
around from user to user. Chris (of LMS fame) provides adult
supervision to keep things moving.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <botmom@> wrote:

Some where I read there is a way to Bore out the SPINDLE /

HEADSTOCK

Does any one know where the information is and/or how much can it

be

opened to?
Thanks;
John Fetz

Are you drilling this hole into material that can be held in the lathe
chuck? Material dimensions and the material type would be helpful info.

The technique is straight forward (but tedious) if the material fits
in the chuck. Best situation is if the material fits through the
spindle, of course.

John

Hi John,
It would probably cause a bit of a furore at airport security, too.
Anyway, I've got a Warco-badged Wiess lathe, which according to the Warco specs has a 0.75" spindle bore. Out of curiosity, I have just measured it - 20.8mm, which is 13/16" plus a whisker.
Back now to making a crude leadscrew reverse for it. I've been taking a break from hand-hacksawing cuts of about 300mm total length in 12mm steel plate, to make a swinging arm to bring an extra gearwheel into play when needed. Only another 30mm to go, now. I know what I shall be giving myself for my 60th later this month!
Andy

born4something <ajs@...> wrote:
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., andrew franks <andyf1108@...>
wrote:

I doubt if the official Guardian of the Reamers would let one of

them travel to the UK all on its own!

Hi Andy,

I guess that rules out a trip to Oz? Well, it's not been on my must-do
list. But if I can't have it, suddenly I want it!

John






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G'day Tony & Ed.

"Does it matter if the meter is on the + or - side?"
My preference is for the meter to go in the + side of the circuit so
as not to risk bypassing the current limit resistor (Horse Power
Resistor on my card) if you connect back to the wrong terminal.

NOTE: BOTH + & - CONNECTIONS ARE LIVE WITH RESPECT TO GROUND AND THE
LATHE FRAME. Treat the meter its wiring and connections as LIVE and
effectively at mains potential.

Regarding digital meters, not DVMs, I would be careful regarding the
effect of the current wave form. The lower cost units will only
measure the peak current each sampling cycle. The peak will be more
than either the average or the RMS current so the reading could be
high and so be meaningless. A digital meter needs a power supply
while an analogue meter does not.

If you connect the analogue meter the wrong polarity you will simply
reverse the needle against the stop, no harm will be done but you
will have to reverse the connections.

Hope this helps.

One good turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., andrew franks <andyf1108@...>
wrote:

I doubt if the official Guardian of the Reamers would let one of

them travel to the UK all on its own!


Hi Andy,

I guess that rules out a trip to Oz? Well, it's not been on my must-do
list. But if I can't have it, suddenly I want it!

John

Yes, that's got to be right, Roy. I was just thinking aloud. Enlarging the calibre of my spindle isn't on my project list, though if it was, I doubt if the official Guardian of the Reamers would let one of them travel to the UK all on its own!
Andy

roylowenthal <roylowenthal@...> wrote:
You'd actually be better off with a suitably large conventional
boring bar. A regular boring bar will ensure that the spindle bore
is concentric with the axis of rotation. As a generality, the
carriage is preferable to the TS for accurate, controllable tool
holding.

The virtue of the reamer is that it's quick & available for the cost
of postage! Since the bore can be reamed, it's not a big enough cut
to justify (to me) the nuisance of setting up a boring bar. Then
again, I did mine a few years ago, when the community was smaller.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "andyf1108" <andyf1108@...>
wrote:

I wonder if it would it be possible to make up a boring bar, with a
short front section "A" of a diameter which is a sliding fit

inside

the spindle, then a length "B" of smaller diameter carrying the
tool bit, and then a short section "C" which is a sliding fit at
the "opened out" diameter which the bit will cut. With the spindle
turning, push this boring bar through it with the tailstock centre
(some sort of dog would be needed to stop the bar rotating, and the
cut would have to be in stages, to allow the tailstock to be moved
between stages) Section A would centre the bar in the spindle at
the beginning of the cut, and B would be of such a length that, by
the time A emerged from the spindle, section C would have entered
the bore and take over the centring job.

Or would this, too, tend to self-feed and pull the bar away from

the

tailstock centre?
Cheaper than a reamer, though, and a big drill would need a big
chuck, unless it had a Morse taper shank to fit the tailstock.

Andy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal"
<roylowenthal@> wrote:

From experience, it's still a problem. With a TS mounted drill,

it'll

still try to self feed, either jamming the machine or popping the

chuck

out of the TS taper. With a carriage mounted drill, it'll still

try to

pull itself in. The reamer did a nice job, with no drama:-)

Roy

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Thanks for that Andrew,

It's not the one I used years back which went milky-white with
water. The EP690 apparently goes translucent blue. Is that your
recollection? But if it works and is available...

Blackwoods list it in 4 and 20 litre containers.

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Andrew MacIntyre"
<andymac_org@...> wrote:

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@>

wrote:

Some time back there was discussion of soluble oil and its
availability in Oz. Must have been steam4ian asking. I just got

back

to looking and found some info at www.azom.com/details.asp?
ArticleID=2240. Down the bottom of that page are a number of

mineral

oil cutting fluids. All but the last three show up in a search

at

Blackwoods. I'm not familiar with the product names and

Blackwoods'

web site isn't abundantly full of it. But is that useful?

Going to the Castrol site and looking through the descriptions, I

think

that Clearedge EP690 is the brew I encountered at the TAFE college.

Cheers,
Andrew.

Thanks, Ian, for the explanation. I get a catalog from
allectronics.com. They have AC and DC meters in various
ranges for $12 each. I pulled my electronics and it looks
like it'd be easy to add a meter to the DC side, especially
if I can connect it between the direction switch and the
motor. Does it matter if the meter is on the
+ or - side?

The meter can go anywhere in the circuit, if you hook the + - up backwards,
you'll just get a negative reading.

If someone is planning on using digital meters, check the specs. Most of
them don't like you using the 10A range for too long, usually under 10
seconds. They're not designed to be left in permanently.

YMMV, of course. They may be happy with a couple of amps indefinitely, but
become a blob of yellow plastic on 10 amps.

Same deal for the analog ones too, the shunt can get a bit warm, but they
tend to be designed for it.

Tony

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@...> wrote:

Some time back there was discussion of soluble oil and its
availability in Oz. Must have been steam4ian asking. I just got back
to looking and found some info at www.azom.com/details.asp?
ArticleID=2240. Down the bottom of that page are a number of mineral
oil cutting fluids. All but the last three show up in a search at
Blackwoods. I'm not familiar with the product names and Blackwoods'
web site isn't abundantly full of it. But is that useful?

Going to the Castrol site and looking through the descriptions, I think
that Clearedge EP690 is the brew I encountered at the TAFE college.

Cheers,
Andrew.