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Re: Magnetic indicator base demagnetizing
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýOld steel or alloys (AlNiCo for example) magnets used on car,
bike or telephone magnetos, galvanometers, ...? were easily losing
their field strength when decoupled from their armatures or when
shocked or annealed. Modern ones e.g. Neodymium are far more
strong, they almost don't or, at least insignificantly do. Consequently, from time to time or mandatorily if dismantled
these magnetic fossils were needing a re-magnetization that
nowadays can easily be done. It's a matter of Ampere x turns. Here's a link that will make Jacques' life, otherwise for English people googletrans is your friend !
This is only a piece of public information, not a how-to
procedure. Of course, it's up to you to protect yourself. I'm not
responsible of any kind of accident that might occur. On 15.04.24 02:55,
Ralph Hulslander via groups.io wrote:
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Moving my "new" Grizzly G1006
Someone sent me this excellent article on how to disassemble and move one of these mills. (The rest of the stiff in hood website is interesting too). This guy moved his mill twice and explains in detail how to take it apart. He even weighed the individual parts, which was very comforting.? Despite being well into geezerhood, I work out pretty regularly and I think I'll be able to pick up all the parts on this list. Also I have a come along and know how to use them. That's what he used to lift off the head and that sounds quite practical if I can find an overhead beam at the seller's factory. ?I have one question for you guys though. This mill is missing the left hand crank handle for the X-axis leadscrew. (Possibly removed at some point to fit a motor, which was sold to someone else at some point).? Do I actually need one? Mini-mills have never had more than one crank and I don't really understand the reason why big mills have two unless moving the table during some operations requires an enormous amount of force. So should I keep my eyes open for another crank handle or does it matter?? Mike Taglieri? |
Re: LMS 5000 bed extension
Yes.? Using a "wick" will usually work out fine if only a scant amount of oil is needed to get the job done.? It is my guess that the clearances involved in the parts, in general, on these things is loose enough that it might be hard to get enough oil in with a wick. It is pretty typical to use an oil cup for this sort of thing, but they can be too bulky for some locations.? One nice thing is that you can flip the lid and see if you are "low" on oil.? But if the clearances are quite loose, the oil may drain out pretty quickly. A Zerk fitting can certainly be used for oil.? It is more compact and you can shove anything through it you want.? But it's good to wipe it clean first so you avoid shoving debris in with the lubricant. Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Monday, April 15, 2024 at 07:05:51 PM PDT, upand_at_them via groups.io <upand_at_them@...> wrote:
Drill a hole and push a piece of felt into it.? It will keep the swarf out, but still allow oil through. Mike |
Re: LMS 5000 bed extension
I think most people just drill them for push-in button oilers, so it would depend on the size of the oilers.? Could just drill a hole and oil through there, but that leaves the possibility of contamination from machining particles.
On Monday, April 15th, 2024 at 8:04 PM, Stan Gammons via groups.io <buttercup11421@...> wrote: The lead screw brackets on my mini lathe do not have oil holes. Anyone know what size they should be? |
Re: LMS 5000 bed extension
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýThe lead screw brackets on my mini lathe do not have oil holes.? Anyone know what size they should be?Stan On 4/15/24 08:50, Ralph Lehotsky wrote:
I drilled and tapped my lead screw brackets and added zerk fittings.? Some others prefer oil, but I like zerks.? They work well on John Deere equipment bearings, so I trust them. |
Re: LMS 5000 bed extension
Aren't zerk fitting for injecting grease with a grease gun? How do you plan to use them for oil? Mike Taglieri? On Mon, Apr 15, 2024, 9:50 AM Ralph Lehotsky via <ralphlehotsky=[email protected]> wrote: I drilled and tapped my lead screw brackets and added zerk fittings.? Some others prefer oil, but I like zerks.? They work well on John Deere equipment bearings, so I trust them. |
Re: Magnetic indicator base demagnetizing
Actually, use non-magnetic tools - there are things other than brass that are non-magnetic! I'm fond of getting a bag of popsicle sticks from a craft store & shaping them into useful tools. There are also a bunch of useful plastic tools made for working with adhesives.
Roy |
Re: Magnetic indicator base demagnetizing
ho? remember? also only? use? brass tools? to? work on? these?? like? worl? on magnetron?? if? you? work? on magnetron? whit a? iron? toll? you modify? his mag power? and? it not? work? after it is? the same? ?here if? you? work? whit? iron? you modify? the? power of? mag? of? the 2? ?part?? and? it is? not? blance? after? ?? jack 47 71 |
Re: Magnetic indicator base demagnetizing
THESE? MAGNETIC? SYSTEM? ARE? DIFFICULT? TO REPRODUCE the mag? have? to? be? in? the? exact position for? his polarity? ?orientation if? you? mark? both? mag? for? the? orientation? no problemo? you? can? made a system? like this? by? position? the mag? in a? special? position? only? when? you? turn? one? ?the mage? incrise? ? in? the? other possition? the mag? in NUL jack 47 71 |
Re: LMS 5000 bed extension
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýI should of taken more pics.? The only ones I took are of the control box wiring.The tap from LMS held up well, but the 2.5mm drill bit didn't.? Tapping the holes was very easy.? Perhaps using the Tap Magic EP-Xtra helped. Yeah, I see some differences in the written instructions and the video.? I'll sort it out as I continue this project.? Wondering if I should drill oil holes in the lead screw brackets since my brackets don't have oil holes. Stan On 4/14/24 06:30, Ron Y wrote:
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Re: Magnetic indicator base demagnetizing
Why would taking it apart lose most of the charge? On Sun, Apr 14, 2024 at 2:03?PM davesmith1800 via <davesmith1=[email protected]> wrote: It depends on the magnetic.? |
Re: LMS 5000 bed extension
There are/were lots of discussions about the rear slide plate some time ago. On larger machines, setscrews through the slide plate are a common means of adjustment - on these relatively small machines, adding a filler piece is a better fix. When you get the slop down to a reasonable amount, you'll probably find you need to refine the surface on the underside of the bed.
IIRC, there were some folks who added the old bed to the longer one, with everything mounted on a rigid base. Roy |