What model is your Craftsman???I found this group and the 7x lathes from the Craftsman 109 group.?

Ryan

On Jan 11, 2022, 9:09 PM -0500, Chad Rebuck <chadrebuck@...>, wrote:

So the short answer is that I have a problem buying stuff I don't necessarily need.? The good thing is I don't spend much money on what I buy so I often sell for way more because I have patience and room to store the items.??

I bought a few lathes over the past 5 years or so whenever I found what I thought was a good deal.? I tend to buy various stuff, fix them as needed, then?sell for a small?profit hopefully.? I haven't done much machining of larger parts so the mini lathe has been great.? I do want to build up a workbench for the Craftsman but have not gotten around to doing so yet so it has been on the floor of my garage next to an old southbend?lathe from the 1940s I think.? It is not the more common and popular southbend models I see folks using on?youtube.? So I sort of have a problem with buying machine tools when I find deals on them :)? I will often sell off some of the pieces, tool boxes, tooling, just because I don't need it all.? I plan to keep using the mini lathe and the Craftsman may move back on to the floor for a while.??

On Tue, Jan 11, 2022 at 8:05 PM mike allen <animal@...> wrote:

??? ??? So , out of curiosity why don't you use the Craftsman ? Real estate ?

??? animal

On 1/11/2022 10:22 AM, Chad Rebuck wrote:

I finished up the lathe machine work last night.?? Thank you for the input from those who provided it?

Unfortunately I didn't do any of the machining on the mini lathe, but it was a good excuse to get the old craftsman lathe off the floor and in use.? I had not really used it before this past week but it worked out well.? I was able to fit different turning and boring tools into the lantern style holder with little hassle.? I did have to replace the headstock vbelt with a linked vbelt from harbor freight, which saved me a good bit of time as I avoided having to disassemble the headstock.? The parting was easy after switching to a very low speed and reducing the rake of the parting tool a good amount.? The lathe has pulleys/belts/back gears which allow adjustment so the ac motor runs at full speed (its not a variable speed setup) yet the spindle rpm can be adjusted down to a very slow crawl.? When I was running it without back gears engaged the speed was higher of course and the parting tended to chatter or just not go as smoothly.? WIth the lowest speeds the back gears allowed I was able to part it without much effort.? Frequent squirts of wd40 help keep it cutting smoothly and clearing the chips.? I'm not sure my mini lathe would have been able to do the slow speed with the torque needed - will have to try next time around.

My friend?is bringing the steering wheel over sometime soon so I can drill and tap the mounting holes on one side at least.? I'm not sure how he will want to handle the mounting of the other end to the car though I may help with that too.

Same link as before has been updated with more pictures...??

One of these dI'll probably make up an adapter plate so I can attach my existing 4" chuck to the mini lathe I most often use.? If I had done that already I could have attempted this all on the mini lathe.

On Sun, Jan 9, 2022 at 11:11 PM Chad Rebuck <chadrebuck@...> wrote:

I didn't part it off or remove it to cut with the saw yet.? I did the boring taking mostly light cuts since it is only mounted using the outside 3 jaws and they are quite shallow jaws.? I was thinking of removing and cutting to length before boring so I could mount it more solidly in a 4 jaw using the inside jaws.? The part didn't fly off the chuck nor did it shift any detectable amount. Next is to part it or saw it the remaining .5 inch of depth then finish facing the other end.? I didn't try to finish to length by parting.? The parting was more for practice leaving some material to finish to the final dimension with a turning tool.

Same link as before...??

On Sat, Jan 8, 2022, 5:42 AM paul mcclintic via <cannontandem=[email protected]> wrote:

I would have left the parting for last when you had all the boring done. Does the hole still go clear through since you could grip the part on the outside so the parting doesn't need to be so deep? Are you making the larger section of hole at what is the tailstock end so there is still a good place to hold the material as it now sits? Just after I sent my last post I realized it's possible you could pass the bolts through the mounting parts and have nuts in the space between the flanges eliminating the need for any tapping and a little less thickness for the flanges. Paul M.

??? ??? So , out of curiosity why don't you use the Craftsman ? Real estate ?

??? animal

On 1/11/2022 10:22 AM, Chad Rebuck wrote:

I finished up the lathe machine work last night.?? Thank you for the input from those who provided it?

Unfortunately I didn't do any of the machining on the mini lathe, but it was a good excuse to get the old craftsman lathe off the floor and in use.? I had not really used it before this past week but it worked out well.? I was able to fit different turning and boring tools into the lantern style holder with little hassle.? I did have to replace the headstock vbelt with a linked vbelt from harbor freight, which saved me a good bit of time as I avoided having to disassemble the headstock.? The parting was easy after switching to a very low speed and reducing the rake of the parting tool a good amount.? The lathe has pulleys/belts/back gears which allow adjustment so the ac motor runs at full speed (its not a variable speed setup) yet the spindle rpm can be adjusted down to a very slow crawl.? When I was running it without back gears engaged the speed was higher of course and the parting tended to chatter or just not go as smoothly.? WIth the lowest speeds the back gears allowed I was able to part it without much effort.? Frequent squirts of wd40 help keep it cutting smoothly and clearing the chips.? I'm not sure my mini lathe would have been able to do the slow speed with the torque needed - will have to try next time around.

My friend?is bringing the steering wheel over sometime soon so I can drill and tap the mounting holes on one side at least.? I'm not sure how he will want to handle the mounting of the other end to the car though I may help with that too.

Same link as before has been updated with more pictures...??

One of these dI'll probably make up an adapter plate so I can attach my existing 4" chuck to the mini lathe I most often use.? If I had done that already I could have attempted this all on the mini lathe.

On Sun, Jan 9, 2022 at 11:11 PM Chad Rebuck <chadrebuck@...> wrote:

I didn't part it off or remove it to cut with the saw yet.? I did the boring taking mostly light cuts since it is only mounted using the outside 3 jaws and they are quite shallow jaws.? I was thinking of removing and cutting to length before boring so I could mount it more solidly in a 4 jaw using the inside jaws.? The part didn't fly off the chuck nor did it shift any detectable amount. Next is to part it or saw it the remaining .5 inch of depth then finish facing the other end.? I didn't try to finish to length by parting.? The parting was more for practice leaving some material to finish to the final dimension with a turning tool.

Same link as before...??

On Sat, Jan 8, 2022, 5:42 AM paul mcclintic via <cannontandem=[email protected]> wrote:

I would have left the parting for last when you had all the boring done. Does the hole still go clear through since you could grip the part on the outside so the parting doesn't need to be so deep? Are you making the larger section of hole at what is the tailstock end so there is still a good place to hold the material as it now sits? Just after I sent my last post I realized it's possible you could pass the bolts through the mounting parts and have nuts in the space between the flanges eliminating the need for any tapping and a little less thickness for the flanges. Paul M.

I didn't part it off or remove it to cut with the saw yet.? I did the boring taking mostly light cuts since it is only mounted using the outside 3 jaws and they are quite shallow jaws.? I was thinking of removing and cutting to length before boring so I could mount it more solidly in a 4 jaw using the inside jaws.? The part didn't fly off the chuck nor did it shift any detectable amount. Next is to part it or saw it the remaining .5 inch of depth then finish facing the other end.? I didn't try to finish to length by parting.? The parting was more for practice leaving some material to finish to the final dimension with a turning tool.

Same link as before...??

On Sat, Jan 8, 2022, 5:42 AM paul mcclintic via <cannontandem=[email protected]> wrote:

I would have left the parting for last when you had all the boring done. Does the hole still go clear through since you could grip the part on the outside so the parting doesn't need to be so deep? Are you making the larger section of hole at what is the tailstock end so there is still a good place to hold the material as it now sits? Just after I sent my last post I realized it's possible you could pass the bolts through the mounting parts and have nuts in the space between the flanges eliminating the need for any tapping and a little less thickness for the flanges. Paul M.

I would have left the parting for last when you had all the boring done. Does the hole still go clear through since you could grip the part on the outside so the parting doesn't need to be so deep? Are you making the larger section of hole at what is the tailstock end so there is still a good place to hold the material as it now sits? Just after I sent my last post I realized it's possible you could pass the bolts through the mounting parts and have nuts in the space between the flanges eliminating the need for any tapping and a little less thickness for the flanges. Paul M.

I think he has already tested the fit and function with a 3d printed?version?? ?I was actually?surprised?there were not holes in CAD model of the flange.? ? ?But there was discussion?here is a trail fit using a plastic prototype.

On Fri, Jan 7, 2022 at 3:44 AM paul mcclintic via <cannontandem=[email protected]> wrote:

On Sun, Jan 2, 2022 at 06:35 AM, Robert Francis wrote:

The flanges are needed for bolting on the wheel and the shaft

If Robert is correct and the flanges are for bolts will you have enough room between the flanges to get the bolts in? It would seem the one end would need a pretty long bolt for how thick the flange is. Unless one flange has tapped holes you would also need to miss the bolt head of the bolts you first installed. That problem could be solved by centering one set of holes about the gap between holes at the other end. Paul M

--

Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California

On Sun, Jan 2, 2022 at 06:35 AM, Robert Francis wrote:

The flanges are needed for bolting on the wheel and the shaft

If Robert is correct and the flanges are for bolts will you have enough room between the flanges to get the bolts in? It would seem the one end would need a pretty long bolt for how thick the flange is. Unless one flange has tapped holes you would also need to miss the bolt head of the bolts you first installed. That problem could be solved by centering one set of holes about the gap between holes at the other end. Paul M

Yes, you can turn PLA if you turn it very slowly so there is no heat generated.? I have used?a boring bar to clean the bore on printed timing pulleys I make.? The plastic cuts well

But now that more plastic parts are not printed solid.? Typically I use a 0.8 to 2.0 mm think skin and under that is a a kind of "foam" that is 50 to 80% air.? ? he "foam is a grid parted that is printed.? This saves a LOT of time and plastic.

his is the biggest difference between designing parts for metal or 3D printing.? ?Metal is solid and gains strength?by being thicker.? Plastic has strength?only in the skin.? ? So if you machine to deep you get thinner skin and the part fails.

But, yes it is 100% possible to "post-process" plastic parts on a mill or lathe.? ?I do this all the time if a plastic part has to mates with a metal part.? ?But you only remove, maybe 0.2 mm at most, hopefully?less then 0.05, basically n more then a cleaning pass

On Tue, Jan 4, 2022 at 11:34 AM rodedser <rod.edser@...> wrote:

Following this thread I have noticed that no-one has suggested printing oversize and turning down to fit. Can that be done?
Can you rework printed components?

--

Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California