Re: M6x8 button head screws found at Lowes?
Some do.? They have a wall of little drawers
full of expensive little screws of all sorts.? So does Ace Hardware,
Tru-value, etc.? You can buy a box of 100 for what you'll pay at Lowes from
any industrial supply house.? Luckily there is still one left in the
nearest city to where I live, and that's where I get mine.
?
Mert
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Does
Lowes carry these button head screws for the cross slide??? I'm
soooo sick of bashing my knuckles on the dang cap head screws on there
now...? Whomeever thought of using the cap screws on there should be
slapped? 32 times for every knuckle that's been
smashed....
?
thanks!
Mike
B
|
Re: Looking at buying the 7" x 10" w/ Questions
The 7x10 will easily handle any of the chores on your list. You will not be
able to take off the full 1/8" in one pass, though. With skill and a sharp
toolbit, you may do it in 2 passes, but 3 is more realistic. This is not a
very big machine. Setting up for threading is a chore, because you have to
manually change the gear wheels for the thread pitch. I don't use any of my
7xs for threading, because I'm lazy and have a 12x36 with a quick change LS
gearbox on it, & use that one.
If your work can be done in the limited space between the face of the
chuck and the TS center, (8" on the 7x10), you'll be pleased with this
lathe. However, the 7x"12" has 4" more room, and is thus a great deal more
useful, if you ever have a need to turn longer stuff. Not that much
difference in price. This version is 4" longer than the 7x10 and weighs
abut 20# more. Portability is not a problem if you are fairly husky,
though.
I bought my 7x10 in the early 80s, and started using it in right-out-of-box
condition, after wiping the preservative off the ways. I shortly found the
gib on the top slide needed adjustment and did this, then the cross slide
one needed the same thing, so I did that too. This sort of stuff will need
to be done on any new machine. Later, I found the detents for the FNR lever
for the LS were slightly mislocated and re-drilled them. I bought the four
7xs I have years ago, and the most I paid was $400 for that last one, a
7x12, which came with ALL the factory accessories then offered. The others
were #300, or less. My 7x10 was $275 with free shipping on sale, I think.
I bought it entirely out of curiosity, and got a very pleasant surprise on
first trying it out. Even at today's price, it's a bargain, I believe, but
the 7x"12" is a bigger one. My experience.
Mert
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-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of HOGWINSLOW@...
Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2012 8:55 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Looking at buying the 7" x 10" w/ Questions
So I've decided on the HF 7" x 10" lathe. For the longest time I was
leaning toward the Tiag Lathe. But my Grandfather left me his tools and
most of them will work better with the HF. The Taig uses 1/4" tooling and
the HF uses 5/16". He left me a bunch of 5/16" tool steel. Also all the
drill chucks and centers he left me are all M-2 so they will fit the M-2
tailstock. But I have a few questions-
1. I want to turn a 1" diameter piece of steel to 5/8". Will the HF handle
this? I've read that it slows down when turn steel. Are those people just
tring to cut to much at once?
2. Once at 5/8" I need to thread it. Is the threading feature easy to use
on the HF lathe?
3. I need to re-work some oil-lite bushings. The outer diameter of the
bushings I buy is correct. But the inside needs to be bored from 1/2" to
5/8". Will the HF handle this within the accuracy needed for bushings?
Would I be better of using a small boring bar or a 5/8" reamer (I happen to
have one). The flange on the bushings also needs to be thinned but I'm sure
that's easy enough.
4. I sometimes need to to take two slices from opposites sides of a round
bar to be able to put a wrench on them. I've read that it's possible to
chuck a end mill in the lathe and do slight milling. Do you feel this would
be an option or is it wish full thinking?
5. I see a Prep Guide in the link section. Is this what's used to make all
the initial adjustments when I first use it. From what I read I'll need to
do a lot of tweeking to get it right.
Any help is appreciated and thanks in advance,
Tom
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
|
Re: Looking at buying the 7" x 10" w/ Questions
Hi Tom,
All the 7x lathes are great little machines and the x10 is often very cheap but you really need to ask if the bed length is going to be enough for your needs now and in the foreseeable future. If you start working with longer bar and want to drill the ends it is quite easy to run out of bed length. If you an stretch to one of the many 7x12 models (also competitively prices) that might be a better overall choice. Due to the way different outlets advertise their lathes the x12 is actually near 4" longer than the 10 rather than the 2" the descriptions suggest and that makes a big difference to most folk. The MT2 fitting is very common and tools are easy to get new and used quite inexpensively.
1 After initial adjustment and set up your lathe will handle 1" steel without real problem. It has the lowest power of the 7x range but as long as you take steady cuts it will be ok. Things will get more difficult if you get to larger diameters but as you have guessed a lot of people try taking too rapid a cut. I did a faceplate from a 6" square plate that was a challenge and s-l-o-w but got there.
2 The threading feature is not difficult but you will need a little practice before trying it on a proper part. There are plenty of tutorials on the net and you-tube. With smaller diameters rather than using the threading feature? many people use the lathe in conjunction with a die set and use the chuck and tailstock. You can do this powered but turning the chuck by hand is a safer bet especially for tapping where it is easy to break a small tap. If using the normal die stock you need to prevent the handles slamming into the ways
3 You will need good sharp tooling for oilite but you can enlarge the bore with ease. You can enlarge it with a slight undersize twist drill and then use the reamer (plenty of oil) or use a boring bar. One issue you may have is actually holding the outside sufficiently concentric as you will almost certainly have a little run out in your spindle and 3 jaw chuck but it might be ok for the job you hae in mind. Otherwise you will need to invest in a 4 jaw independant chuck which can hold the part near "spot-on" Or you will need to turn both outside and inside of the bush length before parting off.
4 It is possible to mount a milling vice on the saddle of many small lathes and carry out a degree of milling but most require a T slotted cross slide which none of the 7x lathes have. I believe that you can buy something for the 7x's but it may be limited and expensive for what it is. I saved for a small mill to go with my lathe as it is far less limiting in the long run
5 The prep guide is great for sorting out some of the problems with many of the 7x machines caused by initial poor assembly, preparation and adjustment at the factory. Simply carrying out the basic dismantling, cleaning, de-burring, re-lubing, re-assembly and adjustment will leave you lathe far sweeter than it came. Often simply adjusting the gibs will give a big improvement even if you decide to skip the lapping at this stage.
Most of the prep guide is really a one-off to sort out the factory problems and thereafter you will only have to carry out some of the adjustment and oiling ops from time to time.
Hope this helps but any queries just post again
Gerry W
Leeds UK
To: 7x12minilathe@... From: HOGWINSLOW@... Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2012 01:54:41 +0000 Subject: [7x12minilathe] Looking at buying the 7" x 10" w/ Questions
?
So I've decided on the HF 7" x 10" lathe. For the longest time I was leaning toward the Tiag Lathe. But my Grandfather left me his tools and most of them will work better with the HF. The Taig uses 1/4" tooling and the HF uses 5/16". He left me a bunch of 5/16" tool steel. Also all the drill chucks and centers he left me are all M-2 so they will fit the M-2 tailstock. But I have a few questions-
1. I want to turn a 1" diameter piece of steel to 5/8". Will the HF handle this? I've read that it slows down when turn steel. Are those people just tring to cut to much at once?
2. Once at 5/8" I need to thread it. Is the threading feature easy to use on the HF lathe?
3. I need to re-work some oil-lite bushings. The outer diameter of the bushings I buy is correct. But the inside needs to be bored from 1/2" to 5/8". Will the HF handle this within the accuracy needed for bushings? Would I be better of using a small boring bar or a 5/8" reamer (I happen to have one). The flange on the bushings also needs to be thinned but I'm sure that's easy enough.
4. I sometimes need to to take two slices from opposites sides of a round bar to be able to put a wrench on them. I've read that it's possible to chuck a end mill in the lathe and do slight milling. Do you feel this would be an option or is it wish full thinking?
5. I see a Prep Guide in the link section. Is this what's used to make all the initial adjustments when I first use it. From what I read I'll need to do a lot of tweeking to get it right.
Any help is appreciated and thanks in advance,
Tom
|
Thanks Jerry. I had always thought that fairly rigid frequency control was
essential for computers to work without giving problems. Must have got this
idea from the olden days of TV sets. Power here is pretty good, although
there are occasional momentary voltage drops. From the posts of those who
nonchalantly run their machines on auxiliary generators on here, I'd think
that UP supply is no going to be necessary. This machine I'm using for
emails is about 10 years old, and running WXP. I think I'll just back up my
files on flash drives, and extend my Aux. wiring so I can run it off the
generator when we have an outage. Was expecting one with the last storm,
but the power never even blinked here, unlike in the coastal cities & towns.
My generator is rated at 6 KW continuous, and the load on it is the 240v.
water pump, the refrigerator and the furnace blower, with a few fluorescent
lights & the microwave. Don't think adding the computer will cause
problems. I've wired all the essential stuff separate from the grid wiring
so as to avoid any chance of a cross connection.
Mert
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-----Original Message----- From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of Jerry Durand Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2012 7:11 PM To: 7x12minilathe@... Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Thinking of you. On 11/7/2012 10:48 AM, MERTON B BAKER wrote: How expensive would a really good one be?
Mert
{note: some people list the stabilizer function as a regulator or automatic voltage control } The voltage stabilizers from APC are about $40 delivered for 1.2kW. These adjust for over/under voltage and clean it up, but do NOT offer any battery backup for dropouts. The voltage stabilizers from TSI Power would be something like $1300 each for 1.8kW. For filtering, stabilizing, and battery backup if you don't mind the switchover time, the APC Back-UPS Pro 1500W is about $200 but I see it says the automatic voltage control is not available on all models without saying WHICH models. So, this may or may not have it. -- Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886 Skype: jerrydurand ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links
|
Re: M6x8 button head screws found at Lowes?
I found them at Ace Hardware....
Bob
On 11/7/2012 10:17 PM, Exibar wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
?
Does Lowes
carry these button head screws for the cross
slide??? I'm soooo sick of bashing my knuckles on
the dang cap head screws on there now...? Whomeever
thought of using the cap screws on there should be
slapped? 32 times for every knuckle that's been
smashed....
?
thanks!
Mike B
|
Re: M6x8 button head screws found at Lowes?
I got mine from Little Machine Shop.? John
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Nov 7, 2012, at 9:17 PM, "Exibar" < exibar@...> wrote:
?
Does Lowes carry these button head screws for the cross slide??? I'm soooo sick of bashing my knuckles on the dang cap head screws on there now...? Whomeever thought of using the cap screws on there should be slapped? 32 times for every knuckle that's been smashed.... ? thanks! Mike B
|
Re: Tailstok lower casting
thanks for the offers and ideas fellas.
First I'll try to file it down (or have it milled). If that fails, purchase is the next step. Too bad I'm not from US - shipping will be enormous :)
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--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Roy" <roylowenthal@...> wrote:
Yours is probably fixable. With a little careful filing, you should be able to make the "V" fit against the "V" on the bed. Once they match, you might need to install a shim between the upper & lower sections to get the height right. You may not need to shim; they're usually a bit high from the factory.
IIRC, there's some info on this in the "files" either here or in the 7x10 group.
Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Stefan" <stkovac@> wrote:
Hi,
my lower casting on tail stock is messed up. Don't know how, but it wiggles, and its hard to align it right (V is damaged). I have asked LMS do they sell just that part, but unfortunately they don't sell them in parts, only the complete tail stock.
Can you tell me where can I get just the lower part, or does some one here has one spare to sell it to me?
ATB
Stefan
|
M6x8 button head screws found at Lowes?
Does Lowes carry these button head screws for the cross slide??? I'm soooo sick of bashing my knuckles on the dang cap head screws on there now...? Whomeever thought of using the cap screws on there should be slapped? 32 times for every knuckle that's been smashed.... ? thanks! Mike B
|
Re: Looking at buying the 7" x 10" w/ Questions
The answer to 1, 2 and 3 is yes. If you're not familiar with threading, do some reading first. As to milling, it all depends what you want to do and how you're thinking on how to set it up. I haven't seen the prep guide but it probably is what you're guessing it is based on the title. One recommendation is to go with something larger than the 7x10. You can still go with a 7x, but there are longer ones that you'll probably be happier with. Check craigslist in your area, you may find a longer one for the same price or cheaper. I found a Clarke cheaper than the HF, it's longer and even came with a bunch of tooling. It hasn't disappointed me yet. And it takes 5/16 bits. If you put a quick change tool post (QCTP) on it you may even be able to use 3/8 tool bits. From what I hear, avoid HF's QCTP. I think by Tieg your're referring to the Sieg. Most of the 7x lathes are Sieg, HF included. When Mert weighs in on this, LISTEN to what he's saying, he has a number of 7x lathes, including the 7x10 you're considering albiet a bit older. Vince. On Thu, 8 Nov 2012, HOGWINSLOW@... wrote: So I've decided on the HF 7" x 10" lathe. For the longest time I was leaning toward the Tiag Lathe. But my Grandfather left me his tools and most of them will work better with the HF. The Taig uses 1/4" tooling and the HF uses 5/16". He left me a bunch of 5/16" tool steel. Also all the drill chucks and centers he left me are all M-2 so they will fit the M-2 tailstock. But I have a few questions-
1. I want to turn a 1" diameter piece of steel to 5/8". Will the HF handle this? I've read that it slows down when turn steel. Are those people just tring to cut to much at once?
2. Once at 5/8" I need to thread it. Is the threading feature easy to use on the HF lathe?
3. I need to re-work some oil-lite bushings. The outer diameter of the bushings I buy is correct. But the inside needs to be bored from 1/2" to 5/8". Will the HF handle this within the accuracy needed for bushings? Would I be better of using a small boring bar or a 5/8" reamer (I happen to have one). The flange on the bushings also needs to be thinned but I'm sure that's easy enough.
4. I sometimes need to to take two slices from opposites sides of a round bar to be able to put a wrench on them. I've read that it's possible to chuck a end mill in the lathe and do slight milling. Do you feel this would be an option or is it wish full thinking?
5. I see a Prep Guide in the link section. Is this what's used to make all the initial adjustments when I first use it. From what I read I'll need to do a lot of tweeking to get it right.
Any help is appreciated and thanks in advance,
Tom
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
Vince. -- Michigan VHF Corp. The Foggy Mist Emporium
|
Re: Tailstok lower casting
Steven, I happen to have a tailstock body without the piston [forgot name]. I will sell for ?$15.00 plus shipping. Suggestion.? You can use the lower part to repair the existing tailstock. The upper body can be used to to do a camlock conversion without risking damaging your existing tailstock, This was a spare for a central machinery 7x10 mini and is red, wilfred ?
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Show quoted text
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of Roy
Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2012 8:23 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Tailstok lower casting? ? Yours is probably fixable. With a little careful filing, you should be able to make the "V" fit against the "V" on the bed. Once they match, you might need to install a shim between the upper & lower sections to get the height right. You may not need to shim; they're usually a bit high from the factory.
IIRC, there's some info on this in the "files" either here or in the 7x10 group.
Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Stefan" <stkovac@...> wrote:
>
> Hi,
> my lower casting on tail stock is messed up. Don't know how, but it wiggles, and its hard to align it right (V is damaged). I have asked LMS do they sell just that part, but unfortunately they don't sell them in parts, only the complete tail stock.
> Can you tell me where can I get just the lower part, or does some one here has one spare to sell it to me?
>
> ATB
>
> Stefan
>
|
Looking at buying the 7" x 10" w/ Questions
So I've decided on the HF 7" x 10" lathe. For the longest time I was leaning toward the Tiag Lathe. But my Grandfather left me his tools and most of them will work better with the HF. The Taig uses 1/4" tooling and the HF uses 5/16". He left me a bunch of 5/16" tool steel. Also all the drill chucks and centers he left me are all M-2 so they will fit the M-2 tailstock. But I have a few questions-
1. I want to turn a 1" diameter piece of steel to 5/8". Will the HF handle this? I've read that it slows down when turn steel. Are those people just tring to cut to much at once?
2. Once at 5/8" I need to thread it. Is the threading feature easy to use on the HF lathe?
3. I need to re-work some oil-lite bushings. The outer diameter of the bushings I buy is correct. But the inside needs to be bored from 1/2" to 5/8". Will the HF handle this within the accuracy needed for bushings? Would I be better of using a small boring bar or a 5/8" reamer (I happen to have one). The flange on the bushings also needs to be thinned but I'm sure that's easy enough.
4. I sometimes need to to take two slices from opposites sides of a round bar to be able to put a wrench on them. I've read that it's possible to chuck a end mill in the lathe and do slight milling. Do you feel this would be an option or is it wish full thinking?
5. I see a Prep Guide in the link section. Is this what's used to make all the initial adjustments when I first use it. From what I read I'll need to do a lot of tweeking to get it right.
Any help is appreciated and thanks in advance,
Tom
|
Re: Tailstok lower casting
Stefan,
Could it be that the tail stock base is poorly machined in the v way area?
Mine was not machined with a good finish in the v way groove or on the flat way surface. I applied 120 grit wet-r-dry sandpaper to the way surfaces using double face tape and gently lapped the tail stock base to the ways. It did not take long to achieve a nice sliding fit. This solved my tail stock "positioning issue". It now repeats well. One issue that may result from lapping the tail stock base to the ways is that the tail stock may end up being low relative to the headstock, but if so this can be rectified by building in some type of vertical adjustment to get it back to zero. I also did the same thing to the carriage ways. You wouldn't believe how smooth my carriage operation is now that this is done. I also plan on doing the cross slide ways and compound ways in the same way. The payoff will be nice fitting slides which will translate into reduced chatter and nicer finishes.
I wish you the best of luck in solving your tail stock issues!
Dick
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Stefan" <stkovac@...> wrote:
it is locking down properly, but in one case it locks ok, in other its a few degrees to the left. I've checked the V groove, its not aligned from the side thats closer to the chuck.
|
Re: Tailstok lower casting
Yours is probably fixable. With a little careful filing, you should be able to make the "V" fit against the "V" on the bed. Once they match, you might need to install a shim between the upper & lower sections to get the height right. You may not need to shim; they're usually a bit high from the factory.
IIRC, there's some info on this in the "files" either here or in the 7x10 group.
Roy
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Stefan" <stkovac@...> wrote:
Hi,
my lower casting on tail stock is messed up. Don't know how, but it wiggles, and its hard to align it right (V is damaged). I have asked LMS do they sell just that part, but unfortunately they don't sell them in parts, only the complete tail stock.
Can you tell me where can I get just the lower part, or does some one here has one spare to sell it to me?
ATB
Stefan
|
Re: 4" 4-jaw Union Mfg. chuck
Here are the dimensions:
Roy
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "paul.consolini" <consolinipj@...> wrote:
Looks like I'll probably go with the adapter plate. I took the chuck apart and what looked to be a blank back on the chuck was actually an adapter plate fitted to the recess in the back of the chuck.
The plate has 4 5/16-18 holes that the chuck was screwed to with socket heads and 4 1/4-20 holes slightly inboard and in line with the larger holes. Looks like all I need to do is drill and tap 4 holes on the 45 degree radials (the other holes are on the 90's, if you can visualize that, turn a registration recess and install studs and be good to go. The OD of the adapter is already a good snug fit to the chuck.
Any hints for a novice on accurately locating those holes?
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Roy" <roylowenthal@> wrote:
There's no problem with the lathe being able to handle a 4" chuck, it's a common upgrade. Some folks have fitted 5" chucks with no problems.
I'd go with an adapter plate; it lets you pass long stock thru & it avoids the risk of the chuck unscrewing itself from its mounting if you slow/stop the spindle too quickly.
|
Alan a very good summary in my opinion. Can I also suggest you could go one step further and buy a battery bank, a charger and a DC to mains inverter.
This way you could have a bank of batteries as large as you like you could use a solar panel and turbine to charge it which would reduce costs and still have your mains to keep you batteries consistantly charged. You could also use a de sulphater to keep the batteries in tip top condition.
I have seen 12Volt DC to mains inverters powerfull enough to keep a 6 KW load going. Nothing to stop you using 24V 36V or 48Volt going either.
I would think that a certain amount of filtering and perhaps electronics would be needed to get it all running adequately, but I can't see why it couldn't be done.
Just letting my?mind run with your post really.
?
By the way some UPS's use what is pretty much a square wave rather than a sine wave. It is actually a squarish wave. Computer's don't seem to mind this!
?
John Kiely (IRL)
From: Alan Muller To: 7x12minilathe@... Sent: Thursday, November 8, 2012 12:21 AM Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Re: Thinking of you.
I think this description could be confusing.? The usual sort of "UPS" sold for use with personal computers passes the mains current through to the computer while maintaining a floating charge on the battery.? There is usually some surge and spike suppression built it.? When the power fails, there is a quick transition to running on the battery/inverter.? The output from this is usually a square wave (sometimes deceptively called "modified sine wave."? It's pretty damn modified.)? Some of the UPSs I've looked inside of seem to do some conditioning of the inverter output, some do not.
These work for the purpose--at least in my experience, you can pull the plug and the computer and monitor usually don't blink.? They are about as easy to pick up free as treadmills:? People tend to discard them when the batteries die after a few years.? I have one in my
basement, hooked up to a couple of external batteries, and feeding a dedicated computer circuit, the fiber optic interface, router, and a couple of lights.? (If you do this, you need to be careful that trying to charge much larger batteries than intended doesn't overload the charger....)?? (Verizon fiber optic provides a small UPS as part of the package, but it only backs up the phone, not the network access.)
The other sort, as indicated, is always "on."? Rectifying, feeding a DC bus with batteries floating on it, and inverting that back to AC, sometimes a pretty clean synthesized sine wave.? These provide better isolation and no interruption at all if working, but are obviously less energy efficient as you have the constant losses of two conversions.? in some ways they are a lot like a VFD.
At 01:48 PM 11/7/2012 -0500, you wrote:
|
I think this description could be confusing.? The usual sort of
"UPS" sold for use with personal computers passes the mains
current through to the computer while maintaining a floating charge on
the battery.? There is usually some surge and spike suppression
built it.? When the power fails, there is a quick transition to
running on the battery/inverter.? The output from this is usually a
square wave (sometimes deceptively called "modified sine
wave."? It's pretty damn modified.)? Some of the UPSs I've
looked inside of seem to do some conditioning of the inverter output,
some do not.
These work for the purpose--at least in my experience, you can pull the
plug and the computer and monitor usually don't blink.? They are
about as easy to pick up free as treadmills:? People tend to discard
them when the batteries die after a few years.? I have one in my
basement, hooked up to a couple of external batteries, and feeding a
dedicated computer circuit, the fiber optic interface, router, and a
couple of lights.? (If you do this, you need to be careful that
trying to charge much larger batteries than intended doesn't overload the
charger....)?? (Verizon fiber optic provides a small UPS as
part of the package, but it only backs up the phone, not the network
access.)
The other sort, as indicated, is always "on."? Rectifying,
feeding a DC bus with batteries floating on it, and inverting that back
to AC, sometimes a pretty clean synthesized sine wave.? These
provide better isolation and no interruption at all if working, but are
obviously less energy efficient as you have the constant losses of two
conversions.? in some ways they are a lot like a VFD.
At 01:48 PM 11/7/2012 -0500, you wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
?
How expensive would a really good one be?
Mert
-----Original Message-----
From:
7x12minilathe@...
[
mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of lists
Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2012 12:55 PM
To:
7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Thinking of you.
In article
<
1352244922.96348.YahooMailNeo@...>,
John Kiely
<john_kiely@...>
wrote:
> ou might know more than me Jerry, but I was under the impression
that
> the APC UPS's didn't work the way you have just described.
The way a UPS works isn't down to manufacturer, there are two basic
type
of UPS
1) The simple type where the electronics form a battery charger when
the
mains is present but re-configure to form an inverter, to supply
power
from the battery, when the mains fails. The output quality is dependant
on
the input quality
2) The better type where you have both units present. A dedicated
charger
which charges the battery as long as mains is present and a separate
inverter which takes power from the charger/battery to supply the
load.
Here the output quality is independent of what the mains is doing and
is
solely dependant on the quality of the inverter. These are known as
"online" UPS and provide continuous power without even the
slight break
required for re-configuration of the other type. They are, for
obvious
reasons more expensive.
--
Stuart
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
|
On 11/7/2012 10:48 AM, MERTON B BAKER wrote: How expensive would a really good one be?
Mert
{note: some people list the stabilizer function as a regulator or automatic voltage control } The voltage stabilizers from APC are about $40 delivered for 1.2kW. These adjust for over/under voltage and clean it up, but do NOT offer any battery backup for dropouts. The voltage stabilizers from TSI Power would be something like $1300 each for 1.8kW. For filtering, stabilizing, and battery backup if you don't mind the switchover time, the APC Back-UPS Pro 1500W is about $200 but I see it says the automatic voltage control is not available on all models without saying WHICH models. So, this may or may not have it. -- Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886 Skype: jerrydurand
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Re: Tailstok lower casting
I can make you one, if you want. I have replaced that part on all my 7x
lathes with one that will stay aligned. $25 postpaid in the US. I have
also converted the TS on my lathes to lock with an eccentric cam & lever,
and can convert yours, but would need the TS casting here for that, if you
are interested.
Mert
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-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of Stefan
Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2012 2:12 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Tailstok lower casting
Hi,
my lower casting on tail stock is messed up. Don't know how, but it wiggles,
and its hard to align it right (V is damaged). I have asked LMS do they sell
just that part, but unfortunately they don't sell them in parts, only the
complete tail stock.
Can you tell me where can I get just the lower part, or does some one here
has one spare to sell it to me?
ATB
Stefan
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Re: Tailstok lower casting
it is locking down properly, but in one case it locks ok, in other its a few degrees to the left. I've checked the V groove, its not aligned from the side thats closer to the chuck.
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--- In 7x12minilathe@..., robert M <rmalsbury@...> wrote:
Are you sure it is messed up? It is possible to rotate the keeper plate
90 or more degrees and then it won't lock down properly. Check this out
before replacing!
Bob
On 11/7/2012 12:13 PM, Stefan wrote:
--- In 7x12minilathe@...
<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>, "Stefan" <stkovac@> wrote:
Hi,
my lower casting on tail stock is messed up. Don't know how, but it
wiggles, and its hard to align it right (V is damaged). I have asked
LMS do they sell just that part, but unfortunately they don't sell
them in parts, only the complete tail stock.
Can you tell me where can I get just the lower part, or does some one here has one spare to sell it to me?
ATB
Stefan
just to add, mine lathe is Einhell MTB 3000
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That's the same as we have, and there is a 10 second auto delay before the generator cuts in, so as to give time to differentiate between a mains dip and a power cut, the genny runs until it is manually switched off when we are certain the power has been restored.
Regards jb
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--- On Wed, 7/11/12, Vince Vielhaber <vev@...> wrote: From: Vince Vielhaber <vev@...>
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Thinking of you.
To: "7x12minilathe@..." <7x12minilathe@...>
Date: Wednesday, 7 November, 2012, 18:41
With the online UPS, you're actually running on the UPS 100%
of the
time.? The "mains" only power the battery charger(s) to
maintain the
batteries.
I have an online UPS.? It stands approx 5' tall and
sits a couple feet
from the breaker panel supplying the majority of my office.
Its current
configuration puts out up to 100 amps at 240 VAC.? When
the mains go out
it will last about 90 mins with my current load.? List
price on this unit
when new was about $25K.? I didn't pay anything near
that, I got lucky and
got it from a liquidator from a dot-bomb a number of years
ago.
I don't run any of the metal working machines from it tho,
just the
servers and CD/DVD duplicator.? During a power outage
the emergency
lighting isn't sufficient to run the shop on the main level
until the
generator is running (which usually doesn't due to
insufficient nat gas
pressure).
I'm running on so I'll stop now.? Hope everyone comes
out of the new
storm hitting the NY/NJ ok.
Vince.
On Wed, 7 Nov 2012, lists wrote:
In article <1352244922.96348.YahooMailNeo@...>,
???John Kiely <john_kiely@...> wrote:
ou might know more than me Jerry, but I was under
the impression that
the APC UPS's didn't work the way you have just
described.
The way a UPS works isn't down to manufacturer, there
are two basic type
of UPS
1) The simple type where the electronics form a battery charger when the
mains is present but re-configure to form an inverter, to supply power
from the battery, when the mains fails. The output quality is dependant on
the input quality
2) The better type where you have both units present. A dedicated charger
which charges the battery as long as mains is present and a separate
inverter which takes power from the charger/battery to supply the load.
Here the output quality is independent of what the mains is doing and is
solely dependant on the quality of the inverter. These are known as
"online" UPS and provide continuous power without even the slight break
required for re-configuration of the other type. They are, for obvious
reasons more expensive.
--
Stuart
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Vince.
--
???Michigan VHF Corp.???
??? ? Foggy
Mist Emporium
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? ? 7x12minilathe-fullfeatured@...
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gerry waclawiak
OldToolmaker