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John, No, you want the acid PH down. Remember that alkaline stuff eats aluminium. Unless you really want to save the tap rather than the work ;-) Jeff * REPLY SEPARATOR * - Demand

G'day John. Had a few of those passes as well, Pure Mathematics if I recall, they didn't want to risk seeing me back. But I got through. I had to dig the chemistry text book out when I got involved in

Hi Ian, Oops, I misread Jeff's reference to "Ph down for swimming pools" as reducing acidity. Not quite right, eh? In fact, dead wrong. I have to confess to my Achilles heal here. I have an electrical

G'day Andrew I think it is the sulphate ions which do the damage to the iron. Both iron and aluminium are trivalent so this could help the reaction. Corrosion of the iron would be helped by it being

I've been following this thread with interest; it's been ages since I broke a tap in aluminium, so it's bound to be my turn again soon. I have been trying to find out what alum actually is. "True

Roy wrote..........A reamer takes less power to drive. For making the hole, a drill would do just as well, except a 13/16" drill bit requires more torque than the lathe can deliver.......... I'm not

Oh no John, No John, No John, No! G'day all, (had to include that!) Alkalinity increaser will raise the pH whereas Alum lowers the pH. You want a very ionic solution with a low pH which will attack

wrote: Hi Jeff, How about dentures? <G> More seriously, would I be correct in assuming this bag of Alkalinity Increaser I have in the corner would be the same stuff? John

Hi Dan, No such thing as a dumb question - unless you don't ask it! In that vein, I'll ask my dumb question. If you have a 7x12 lathe, why do you need to enlarge the spindle bore to fit 3/4" through?

oops... Here's the URL: http://www.amazon.com/dp/1854862308

I just got the book "Lathework: A Complete Course" in the mail today. I have only read a few pages & browsed through it, so this is far from a comprehensive review, but I'm impressed with what I see

hi again all- we put up a follow-up article on the 8x cnc conversion. this time we completed the x-axis and mounted a motor to it. all that's left is to make the spacer blocks for the z-axis motor and

Best description I have seen of this, thanks very much! Saved it for future reference. Take care, Vikki. -- Victoria Welch, WV9K/7 Peers's Law:The solution to a problem changes the nature of the

Me too, thanks! -- Victoria Welch, WV9K/7 "Follow orders? No chance. Orders are for those who don't know what to do, and that isn't my problem." -Lt(jg) Morgan Wolfe

Hi Steve, Well, the $16 deal :-) but yes, it looks MUCH more robust than what I am using. I'm going to see if he has more of those and I might give one of them a go too. Maybe a couple and one for the

AHH, good explaination. I understand the reason now. Thanks, Dan Fuller Carrollton, Texas wrote:

Vikki I've been contemplating a similar project but haven't gotten the needed Round Tuit to get started. I have been thinking along the lines of a little more rugged Laser, like the 6 dollar deal

A reamer takes less power to drive. For making the hole, a drill would do just as well, except a 13/16" drill bit requires more torque than the lathe can deliver; that's why drill bits cut more

Yes, that was before the belt drive kit. Now I don't have the grinding noises from the gears, but the motor whine is still present. Yes Sir, I did. I purchased one of the Harbor Freight really cheap

Here's the Alum method; found it here: http://www.floridaame.org/discus/messages/6/160.html?1064179241 "At most any grocery store, buy a box of alum. Select a glass or ceramic container (made for