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. Over the next few weeks I'll get around to doing the dials. One of these days I'll make something which doesn't actually go on the lathe! One good turn deserves another. Regards, Ian Good luck with

Interesting! I think my roomie might have some of that amongst her lapidary stuff (some kind of pickle IIRC), will ask her here in a bit. Am planning on getting some alum next time I get by someplace

Hi Folks, Got it together and almost calibrated tonight: http://wrlabs.shacknet.nu/~vw/MyMachineShop/ Under temporary working stuff - First entry: first prototype. Take care, Vikki. -- Vikki: So I

Vikki, I've heard that alum (food type stuff, concentrated and hot) will work for steel taps in aluminium... no personal experience. On the rare occasion that I bust a tap ;-) I use jewellery sparex

Thanks Arnie, I'll keep that in mind for when I have someplace other than an apartment as a shop. A bit leery about serious chemicals in this environment. This whole experience sure will keep me a LOT

Dan: A drill would work just as well as a reamer. Regards, Chris Wood LittleMachineShop.com <http://www.littlemachineshop.com/> The premier source of parts and accessories for mini lathes and mini

Dan wrote........This is probably a stupid question, buy why is a reamer used for this operation and not a drill? All that is done is to open up the hole. An exact concentric hole is nice, but is it

This is probably a stupid question, buy why is a reamer used for this operation and not a drill? All that is done is to open up the hole. An exact concentric hole is nice, but is it really necessary?

Vicki Next time you might try 10 to 15% nitric, assuming it was stuck in Aluminum. The aluminum will be passivated with a very thin layer of oxide and the nitric will not penetrate it any further. The

Hello, Group! I found a source for a bit of somewhat esoteric and possibly hard-to-find info on a Blacksmith Supply site! A company called Centaur Forge (been around a long time and well-known to

Alan, if you can send me a picture of the board, I can tell you how this is oriented. Normally, the rectifier that is used in these units is a sqaure with one corner cut of diagonally - that's the

"The Amateur's Lathe" is available from Amazon in the US (if that's where you are) for $25.95 in paperback. Of course, you're probably better off if you can find it on eBay. John

I want to thank everyone for your advice and suggestions. Buying a bunch of books about metal working usually wouldn't be a problem, but a lot of the books that I found on Amazon.com and other places

If you mean you live in an apartment, I used my lathe and a drill press that way for years. The regular splash guard will keep much of the swarf from escaping backwards and sideways, and building a

Hi Alan, These things are often chassis mounted for heatsinking. Hence the bolt hole in the middle. That's why Jim was making a point of saying you needed a device that would be well within its

My two favorite books for the kind of lathes we use are "The Amateur's Lathe" by L.H. Sparey (Argus Books 1948, ISBN 0 85242 288 1) and "Using the Small Lathe" by L.C. Mason (Argus Books 1963, ISBN 0

Thanks for the responses. The rectifier I bought was a NTE53004 which looks like it will handle 1000v and 10A, but what threw me was the different form (this one has a hole in the middle) I will look

G'day Rance. I am not an imposter I am the Ian Foster! Alias Steam4ian. I don't know how my identity got revealed, anyhow I don't think I have too much to be ashamed of. One good turn deserves

Living my life is like Mad Magazine LOL :)! I but stand on the shoulders of giants :-). Thanks Ian. I've been collecting quotes that struck me somehow forever now and have accumulated quite a pile. I

Strangely, a lot of wisdom from a science fiction author... I've also never done a sonnet nor yet died gallantly, but these days the opportunity could come at any time :-(. Those are the perfect (IMO)