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You may be limited by the center hole in the stock 3" chuck; if so, changing to a 4" chuck will solve the problem. The spindle claims to have a 20 mm bore - it's reamable to 13/16" for a little more

I am doing light gun barrel work, just need to reduce outside diameter over a 4" area, and thread it over a 1" area. Its an 8.5" long x 3/4" thick barrel. Sound like this baby will do the trick? Also

Got it off. The trick for me, at least, was to use two large flat blade screwdrivers with even pressure to both sides of the handle. Using just one, or with uneven pressure, it would bind and could

Snips and replies to the various General Information thread replies. Comments embedded in senders text. Thanks for that, I now know what to look for in my next lathe! Your welcome Regarding CNC, I

G'day DBN & Mike. The temperatures you have recorded do not seem unduely high. You need to remember that the insulation is most likely rated for 90 degC. (161 degF) temperture rise, this is typical of

G'day Roy,Andy & Johns. I see your point about irrational ratios for the LS to work piece thread pitches. Getting lining up with some would be like winning Lotto twice. However for integer and

Hi Mike, I have a handbook and will look at it later. I would gather it has more to do with the classification of the motor. I've worked on a few motors and drive systems over the last 40 years or so

The Myford ML7 is 3.5"centre height, not including the gap, which is ~5". The bed is 4.5 inches across, but the spindle is not centred to this, it is 2.5" back from the front shear. Would this be to

Marty, the overall width of the bed is a tad under 4", so I suppose it falls in your "toolroom" category. There are two raised prisms (thus, the saddle must be different from a minilathe), the one on

considered "heavy duty" lathes. Those whose beds equal center height are considered "tool room" and those whose beds are narrower than the center height and considered junk (hobby?). Seig 7" machines

Marty: Your descriptions would certainly fit with my experience. My big LeBlond at work had a 24 inch center with ways about 30 inches apart. the smaller LeBlond was almost equal, and considered a

G'day Marty. Thanks for that, I now know what to look for in my next lathe! Perhaps somebody could "improve" a Sieg by puting two beds side by side. I noted your comments about the WM180, it seems a

If I had room for a 20 liter drum of oil, I could've bought a bigger lathe. Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@... Everyone has his reasons. - Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"

Group: I do allot of research building my machine and find much of the sought information very hard to come by. I had posted a request a few days ago about saddle gib adjustment dimensions and

My copy isn't handy so I can't confirm this, but I think there's a section on electric motors and their acceptable temperature rise in Machinery's Handbook. Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@... Everyone

By the time you get spindle & LS at exactly the right place you'll have spent far more time than if you simply reversed with the LS engaged. Cutting integer imperial threads with an imperial LS there

Andrew Franks writes: <snip> My "Warco WM180" is 7x 12, and shares a lot of features (saddle and everything above it) with a regular mini-lathe. <snip> Andy this snippet could have been more timely

Ian, I don't think it would work, because what you are trying to accomplish is to get all the changewheels back, relative to one another, into the same "start position", and for threads foreign to the

Hello Chris and Ian, Don't worry about the name, Ian - I'll answer to anything. My "Warco WM180" is 7x 12, and shares a lot of features (saddle and everything above it) with a regular mini-lathe. It's

G'day John et al. Thank you for replying. I have had a few moments to digest what you are saying. Spindle angle is also important in the equation. Thus the Spindle must be at a set angle, the saddle