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With the exception of the Micromart lathes and the leadscrews on the US model 7xX they all have metric cross slide and compound screws, so no big problem there. You have to cut to size anyway so if

I am looking at a lathe that is set up to metric scale - the dials are all in metric gradations and so are the threads. How much of a problem is using such a machine if turning to Imperial measure? I

All good points, one other thing that I have found is that there is a tendency to be too timid with the feed.You need too keep up a constant pressure. On aluminum and brass you should be able to get a

WD, a little late in the response, but I'll add my 2 cents worth, maybe it's already been covered. I had some trouble initially with parting, but here's what I did. I double checked the height, making

6061 aluminum, 2.25" OD. I've hand-sanded a few sample pieces which will be sent off for anodizing tomorrow. But my research tells me that anodizing actually shows up flaws more than hides it, so I'm

Neil, What are the dimensions of the parts you're trying to sand? Are they wood? B Flint

There was some talk of adjustable backplates a while back. Here's an update. I just completed an adjustable backplate for the 5" 3-jaw chuck sold by J&L Industrial. I posted a few pictures in the

Hi all, I thought you might be interested in our very low cost Frog CNC controller. The Frog controller is designed for lathes, mills, rotary tables, and a variety of custom applications. It adds

Hi all, Until I decide which way I want to go with a lathe, would anyone here know if it's possible to (easily) fit a lathe chuck on a drill press? No, I don't intend to do any cutting/turning on the

Here's a link to the QCTP compound mod: http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_lathe/Modifications/JWE_QCTP/JWE_QCTP.htm Frank Hoose http://www.mini-lathe.com --- "bbftx <bflint@...>"

Roy, I agree that cutting hardened shims with shop scissors will mess the scissors up. I avoided that annoyance by not trying to cut the feeler gauges! I used 'em as is. They rarely got in the way of

It's easier to shim between the tool & the toolpost; if you rubberband the shims to the tool, they're ready to go when you change tools. Feeler gauges are annoying to use because they're hardened;

You can shim under the toolbit itself. Feeler gauges are a convenient thing to use, since you can adjust to within a .001 pretty easily. Go to www.sears.com and type this part number into the search

I know I should know this but ... My tools are hitting below the center of a workpiece and I need move the tool higher. I assume I shim the tool holder around the toolpost but with what? Is there a

John, Very clever arrangement, I like it. As you say there is an upside and downside. Upside is, quickly put in place with little in parts ... except the QCTP. Using the compound on a slotted angle

Hi Clay, I'm a newbie too and have been experimenting with milling in my lathe with mixed results. I added a QC toolpost and found that this allows a crude vertical adjustment via the tool height; of

Clay, I agree with the other two responses. However, while I would not purchase a milling attachment, you may wish to try the Varmint Al homemade approach as an exercise. And to keep the cost of the

Clay The mill/drill being offered by Homier might be an alternative, it is 199.00 which is only 70.00 than the attachment and will do a lot more work Clint

Clay, I've travelled the same road you are embarking on. I've milled on my 7x12 and on a Burke horizontal miller I bought last fall. I used the Taig milling attachment on my 7x12. You can get it for

Thank You, Paul G http://furyflyer.tripod.com www.cnczone.com