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Drive belt tension


 

I use an NLGI 2 extreme pressure (EP) molybdenum containing grease. This is likely overkill for the home shop service but it works well for anti-wear and is compounded for anti-rust and oxidation resistance too. Plus I already had some on the shelf in the garage.?

I made a transparent cover for the gearbox out of 1/4 inch Plexiglas to view the system. The grease film adheres well to the gears mating surfaces which is what is needed for lubrication. There is minimal temperature increase with run time meaning a low friction system.

The drive belt is a link belt - it feels tight to finger pressure but can be deflected by perhaps 1/2 inch. I don't worry too much about this as the belt doesn't slip, doesn't vibrate and the pulleys are in alignment.?


 

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Congratulations to John Vreede for another insightful post that keeps us focused on the practical issues, like the fact that our HF 4 X 6 saws never need the power transmission capacity of any of the belts we are discussing, regardless of the belt type or pulley geometry. His earlier post was also valuable because it pointed out that a lot of the belt associated vibration problems with the HF band saw are related to the flimsy construction of the HF motor mount and sheet metal stand. If I think of the relative structural integrity of my Burke #4 mill or Atlas 10” lathe, where the spindles run in Timken roller bearings mounted in iron castings, it’s pretty obvious why we have vibration issues with the HF band saw.

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Congratulations to Robert Downs, too, for not commenting on link-belts versus V-belts and risking reopening that long-running and inherently inconclusive thread. BUT… I use link belts on the Burke and the Atlas because, in both cases, the original belts broke when I was in the middle of a job and I didn’t want to tear down a perfectly good spindle assembly to replace the standard V belts. I don’t use link belts on any of my power tools that permit access to the belts without tearing down the spindle. In one recent case, I had a V belt fail on a jointer in the middle of a late Saturday night rush to finish a Christmas present. After a few minutes of despair, I realized I could remove one of the link belts from the lathe or mill and adjust its length to fit the jointer. Once the job was done and my V belt store was open, I put the proper V belt back on the jointer. Since then I keep a length of link belt in the shop, just in case. I don’t have an opinion about whether the link or traditional V belt is better. It doesn’t really matter in a non-production hobby shop.

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Sorry for risking reopening that horrible thread, Robert.


 

Interesting, I got my Buffalo saw in about 1981 and it has seen a lot of use since. The gear set in my saw came packed with grease. It has been changed multiple times as seems to like White Lithium Grease. Saw recently cut 400 pieces of 2" 1144 StressProof for an order of rotary selector cams. Using a Bi-Metal blade the cuts ran about 1-1/2 to 2 minutes.

gary

On Sunday, August 23, 2020, 01:03:53 PM CDT, Alan Muller <alan@...> wrote:


Good point.? Worm gears are high friction devices and need proper lubrication.

At 09:32 AM 8/22/2020 -0700, you wrote:

Check the gear box for the condition of the lubricant. Most new machines have very poor quality lubricant (may look good to the eye but may not have proper antiwear additives) that may also be contaminated. I suggest changing it out for a quality lubricant.


 

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SAE 85W90.? The real problem with the later saws made in China instead of Taiwan is that there is a fair probability that the gearbox will contain swarf (metal shavings).? So I would just play it safe, lay the saw over at an angle (so that half of the oil doesn’t run out on the floor as soon as you break the seal on the cover) and clean out the gear box.? The newer the saw is, the more likely that is what you will find.

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Robert Downs

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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Chuck Peterson
Sent: Sunday, August 23, 2020 11:52
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Drive belt tension

?

What do you suggest? Hypoid? 50ish et?


On Aug 22, 2020, at 10:32 AM, Anthony Nagy <ajxnagy@...> wrote:

Check the gear box for the condition of the lubricant. Most new machines have very poor quality lubricant (may look good to the eye but may not have proper antiwear additives) that may also be contaminated. I suggest changing it out for a quality lubricant.


 

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??? ??? I think the rule of thumb should be that weather ya buy yer saw new or used to open it up & check the fluid , check for fluid , & check the oil seals , mine was bone dry & had 3 oil seals on one side & none were correctly installed

??? ??? animal

On 8/23/2020 4:17 PM, Robert Downs via groups.io wrote:

SAE 85W90.? The real problem with the later saws made in China instead of Taiwan is that there is a fair probability that the gearbox will contain swarf (metal shavings).? So I would just play it safe, lay the saw over at an angle (so that half of the oil doesn’t run out on the floor as soon as you break the seal on the cover) and clean out the gear box.? The newer the saw is, the more likely that is what you will find.

?

Robert Downs

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Chuck Peterson
Sent: Sunday, August 23, 2020 11:52
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Drive belt tension

?

What do you suggest? Hypoid? 50ish et?


On Aug 22, 2020, at 10:32 AM, Anthony Nagy <ajxnagy@...> wrote:

Check the gear box for the condition of the lubricant. Most new machines have very poor quality lubricant (may look good to the eye but may not have proper antiwear additives) that may also be contaminated. I suggest changing it out for a quality lubricant.