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I would pull the blade & check each wheel for deflection both in & out & side to side . Have you ever checked the oil level in your gear box ? I checked mine he day I brought it home used . I could

The other day I was cutting some stock with my HF bandsaw when I noticed a new scraping sound coming from the area of the bottom (drive) wheel.? Further examination showed that the blade was riding

I see your point now although I seldom have a problem holding small stock. I have the 3/8 plate on the stationary jaw and just move the other jaw toward the blade. Most the force is on the fixed jaw.

Rick

I may be confused. I was talking about the attachment you posted. The additional jaws attached to your original jaws looked to be about 1/2" thick but then I read the attachment again and it said

Hi Rick, A simple & clever way to cut small parts on the band saw! As usual, nice detail! Not sure about all the criticism that came in. It's not like your small-part jaws go on there, and more

Yup. This trade off works for me. Rick

By using 1" bars you have taken out 2" that will fit between the jaws. Paul M

Mark, You make an important point about the blade rubbing. I'll update the article. I don't understand you comment about 1/4" thick jaws working since they bent when I used them. In fact, I thiink

Hi Rick, thanks for the posting. ? The postings have been pretty slow lately. I did a similar jaw modification. ? I took a number of pictures ?and provided a short description in the photo section.

Thanks for sharing although I have a few observations and concerns. First, 1/4" steel would have been totally adequate on the jaws and you have limited your clamping range. Second, the moving jaw will

The jaws on my bandsaw do not extend to the blade. There is also a cutout below the blade to enable the shavings to fall away. This makes it hard to clamp small bits of metal for sawing. These drop-in

Great stuff John, i too appreciate all your commenting over the years. I've always considered you as one of "the ones you can trust" when you make a comment -- Kelly aka kjb25 HF 4x6 Utah, USA

Hi all Been thinking and there is a simpler way to tension a 4x6's blade that everyone can do at no cost, all it needs is a cellphone. I've made 30sec audio files of a properly

Hi George, I totally agree, I was going to thank John but you beat me to it! It is so refreshing to read a post from someone (John) who speaks with facts and not just opinions. Cheers Paul

John, Thank you very much – your knowledge is greatly appreciated and valuable to the community. George Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2021 6:56 PM To: [email protected] Group Moderators

Hi George I found the calibration data for the 200kg loadcell Not actually zero intercept but 3 in 8000 is near enough see graph attached

Hi George S-type load cells work in both tension and compression and these ones have a 7/16 UNC threaded hole in top and bottom, which I made pivot pin type connections to. The blade is just silver

John, How is your load cell set up to measure tension.? where can i get a load cell appropriate for this?

Ed - I tested your method and it's perhaps a little high (depending on if the threads are greased or not) My go-to method for many years was very similar:- Tighten it as hard as a normal person can