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They changed them slowly, like 6 capscrews at a time which was a major pain. Put a clutch in a ‘92 F350. You’ll have every tool you own laying on the ground pulling the transmission. Just removing

As a data point, the only standard wrench I've used in the last year was to tighten a trailer ball. Everything else is metric. The oldest thing I'm working on is a '98 F-150.

Aren't US made cars metric? [email protected]> wrote:

Iowa teachers were pushing the metric system back in the 1860"s. It sure would have been easy 160 years ago before there was so much standardization. Now we need both systems to get along. Paul M

Interesting that we are all headed to metrics later this year. When I started teaching Industrial Technology back in 1971, we were all concerned that our world (U.S.) was moving to metrics soon. We

I once helped with business planning a resort in that part of the world, but never got to visit. Good luck! wrote:

Just north of Sochi, Krasnodar Krai, Russia ?--- Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. +1 408 356-3886 www.DurandInterstellar.com & www.DurandInterstellar.ru?

I just checked a couple of Australian and French vendor websites. The Australian ones still use tpi, the French use mm pitch for ordinary blades but seem to use 10/14 for variable pitch. Where are you

I guess so. Here in Australia we've been metric for more than 40 years but most stores can cope with you or mm pitch. OTOH I just buy 14 or 18 tpi as needed. wrote:

So, are they sold as "1.8-2.5mm pitch blade" or will they look at me like I'm a crazy expat? I guess maybe it's best to just take a blade to a local shop and point. ?--- Jerry Durand, Durand

Anywhere there's a pitch in tpi, you convert it into millimetres by dividing into 25.4. So a 10 tpi blade corresponds to approximately 2.5mm pitch, 14 tpi to 1.8. Length is usually specified in

I was just thinking, as we'll be moving to metric-land later this year, what do I ask for when I shop for blades?? As in, what's the metric size?? Also, I use 10-14 tpi, is there a metric equivalent

You always want a minimum of 3 teeth engagement so for 1/4" minimum bar stock you need a minimum of 12 TPI - Lenox recommends 14/18 TPI. For 1/8" wall thickness tubing Lenox recommends 8/12 TPI. If

I don't know the TPI on my blade, and I don't care.? If I'm cutting thick stock, it's all good.? If I'm cutting thin stock, I just slip in some 1x2 maple flooring (which I have a lot of) ind it's

Ralph, Yes, it won’t cut through the wood to fast. (I run a bimetal 10-14) Probably faster with pine though. I live in Alabama, maybe more oak available, if you can locate some that bricks or

Last time I remember getting hardwood pallets, was with a truck load of cinderblocks, but that was 15 years ago. Not sure if they are still using hardwood these days. Might be worth a look at a Home

Carl, you are letting the cut through the wood control the speed of the cut, interesting where do you find oak pallets? Most seem to be scrap pine. wrote:

Clamp thin wall tubing in the vise with a piece of wood next to it, more consistent than hand feeding. I break down old oak pallets for this purpose, (poor man's down-feed control) Carl H

I agree with Bill... a quality, 10-14 tooth bimetal. -- Regards, Charlie New Jersey, USA LAW OF ANNOYANCE: When working on a project, if you put away a tool that you’re certain you’re finished

Without going out and dragging out a Bimba book in my library.....here’s what I can tell ya..... As long as it’s a double acting, and has sufficient stroke, it should work. ‘Original line’