A few days ago I was cutting a small length of 1" square stock with my bandsaw.? I supported the piece on a sacrificial strip of aluminum to make sure it wouldn't tip down while being sawn.? The sacrificial piece was a bit narrower than the stock so I could grip it with the vise.? The mistake I made was to turn the saw on and then I left for a "quick" errand.? But that turned into a much longer interval -- so the saw was unattended.? Well, when I finally came back the saw had stopped, but that's because the cutoff piece had jammed the saw.? Probably because the sacrificial piece prevented the saw from immediately turning off.? The scrap got sucked into the bearing guides and jammed.
I didn't smell a burnt odor coming from the motor and the breaker for that outlet had tripped so I was hopeful that the saw was OK, but that turned out to not be the case.? With power restored and the jam cleared, the motor clearly was dead.? My ohmmeter showed an open connection.? It wasn't the switch which only left the motor as the location of the open circuit.
I found that Harbor Freight claims to have replacement bandsaw motors but they're about $150 so I thought it was worth my time to see if I could fix the motor.? I found an online forum where someone had repaired theirs by replacing a thermal cutout located inside the motor housing so......maybe I might get lucky.
I removed the motor and took off the end nearest the power cord connection but unfortunately my model had no thermal cutout.? Still no bad burnt odor and the windings looked OK so I used my ohmmeter some more to see if I could locate the open connection.? I had to remove the heat-shrink tubing from the power cord-to-windings connections and noticed that the hot and ground return wires were stuck together.? More examination revealed that they were melted.? ?They had been tied very tightly by some kind of string so when the motor got hot enough to soften the insulation the wires came in contact, blew out and tripped the breaker.
Long story short, I replaced the power cord connections, re-assembled the motor and tested it.? It ran with no noises, tripped breakers or any obvious complaint.
I got lucky and learned a lesson.? Don't walk away from a running bandsaw.
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Re: Older Rongfu RF-115 bansaw details required
Oops? ...seal, spacer ring and inner face of the bearing.... - jv
On Thu, May 11, 2023 at 3:24?PM John Vreede via <vreededesign= [email protected]> wrote: Does the gearbox output shaft assembly look correct? - Yes & No Yes its that short. Think from memory just under 1.5" overall between the outsides of the ball races. One of the many failings in this gearbox design, but it is what it is.? No The order of the oil seal and spacer is wrong, Inner bearing, then seal (spring around the seal lip toward the gearbox), then there should be am 8mm long?steel spacer which is a sloppy fit in the casting but still bears against the outer diameter of the seal and the outer bearing, Lastly the outer bearing.? To improve lubrication of the outer bearing, which is the main cause of failure, prise off any inner seal with a seal pick and half fill the void between the seal spacer, ring and inner face of the bearing with some thin moly grease. Just so we're on the same page; when you say "...main drive pulley.." I think that you mean?the bandwheel on the gearbox output shaft which?drives the sawblade around, not the pulley on the gearbox input shaft. Am I right? Assuming I'm right, and you are not experiencing any radial movement in the drive bandwheel because?you say "...I took care of that..." , then the movement you are talking about is axial, i.e. endfloat in the shaft.? Am I right in assuming this? There should be no endfloat in either shaft.? If you are experiencing this then the bearing outer is not as tight fit in the casting as most people have.? This is just a manufacturing tolerance issue and no big deal so long as you have the bearing retainer ring in place (It's screwed onto the outside of the gearbox casting where you can see it behind the drive bandwheel) AND the spacer that goes in between?the outer output-shaft bearing.? Most people don't?need that spacer as the bearing outer ring is too tight a fit in the casting but in cases where its not then the spacer is what prevents the whole output shaft from migrating back into the gearbox and the following?all happens: - this misalignment can contribute to derailing the blade, though a failed outer output shaft bearing is much more of an issue in the blade coming off (the extra clearance in the failed bearing allows the output shaft to bend under the blade tension, which steers the blade into derailing from the drive wheel)
- the drive bandwheel can rub on the sawframe casting (the axial forces from the worm and wheel and bending of the output shaft from the blade tension, tends to drive the shaft inward rather than outward)
- the brass gear loses its centering over the worm and rubs against the gearbox lid?
- In time the misalignment between worm and wheel will destroy the brass gear? ?
?I've measured this spacer as between 0.260" to 0.280" long on RF115/ RF128's. Cut one from a piece of 5/8" ID conduit if yours is missing, plastic or metal as there is very little force on it.? The actual length really needs to be determined from wherever the drive bandwheel sits on the output shaft when the blade tracks properly (back of the blade hits and misses the rim of the drive wheel when blade is at the proper tension). That's a whole other story which we can go into if your blade doesn't track properly after you've rebuilt the gearbox? I don't think a 3rd bearing would take any load,? the way the shaft flexes, But you may have a point.? Unfortunately the rubber seals on a 6202-RS bearing are only there to retain grease and are not supposed to be effective in sealing in oil and you definitely don't want oil leaks. Three bearings all with a single seal on the outside might well be a better and sealed bearing set, however I've not tried it.? The seal drag would be lots higher than standard, because Its way higher with just a 6202-2RS outer bearing (std is only a shielded? 6202-Z) - jv
Hi John, this is how the short shaft came out as I found the saw.
-The bearing is next to gear, then an oil seal, then a rubber like sqared O-ring and next bearing. Does the spacing of this looke original and correct-?
On Wed, May 10, 2023 at 7:22?PM Hettie Chom via <hettiechom= [email protected]> wrote: Hi, John, thanks for advice on oil etc...
I discovered a problem I don't like. The short shaft to the main drive pulley:
-The main drive pulley has play in it on the shaft=I took care of that. -Then I discovered that I have play moving the pulley , and its not coming from the pulley with key and no play there. -I then removed this pully, and can feel the play with two new bearings fitted......I am trying to figure this out, because the bearings fit snug to the shaft and in the housing....I am a bit confused at this..........Originally I thought it was a bit of a short distance shaft for driving a metal saw blade? at tention and was condidering fitting 3 sealed bearings in a row without an oil seal. Do you think oil can leak past 3 sealed bearings -? -I will then see if this clears up the problem.......
Sorry Gary didn't mean to dis you, you posted during the time I was still writing and I didn't see it - I agree it's nice to see the oil churning about and that there's enough of it still.?? Without the clear cover I would never have known that one of the oils?I tested (Lucas 75W-140 gear oil ), touted as being a '...synthetic gear oil...', almost instantly (<5sec) turned white (air/oil emulsion - which does not lubricate well at all).? I was testing mainly 'synthetic' oils as these normally lubricate better, but found that? the word 'synthetic', legally, has no defined meaning in relation to oil.? In fact it's not used by the American Petroleum Institute, who control oil products in the US, for that reason. Anyone can call their oil 'synthetic' if the least bit of it is synthesised and, let's face it, the additive packages that all multigrade oils contain are all synthesised. Let the buyer beware - jv? ?
Suggestion: Make a transparent cover for the gearbox. I made mine from 3/8¡± acrylic about 15 years ago and it¡¯s really nice to see the condition of the oil and gears while it¡¯s running.?
Gary
|
Re: Older Rongfu RF-115 bansaw details required
Does the gearbox output shaft assembly look correct? - Yes & No Yes its that short. Think from memory just under 1.5" overall between the outsides of the ball races. One of the many failings in this gearbox design, but it is what it is.? No The order of the oil seal and spacer is wrong, Inner bearing, then seal (spring around the seal lip toward the gearbox), then there should be am 8mm long?steel spacer which is a sloppy fit in the casting but still bears against the outer diameter of the seal and the outer bearing, Lastly the outer bearing.? To improve lubrication of the outer bearing, which is the main cause of failure, prise off any inner seal with a seal pick and half fill the void between the seal spacer, ring and inner face of the bearing with some thin moly grease. Just so we're on the same page; when you say "...main drive pulley.." I think that you mean?the bandwheel on the gearbox output shaft which?drives the sawblade around, not the pulley on the gearbox input shaft. Am I right? Assuming I'm right, and you are not experiencing any radial movement in the drive bandwheel because?you say "...I took care of that..." , then the movement you are talking about is axial, i.e. endfloat in the shaft.? Am I right in assuming this? There should be no endfloat in either shaft.? If you are experiencing this then the bearing outer is not as tight fit in the casting as most people have.? This is just a manufacturing tolerance issue and no big deal so long as you have the bearing retainer ring in place (It's screwed onto the outside of the gearbox casting where you can see it behind the drive bandwheel) AND the spacer that goes in between?the outer output-shaft bearing.? Most people don't?need that spacer as the bearing outer ring is too tight a fit in the casting but in cases where its not then the spacer is what prevents the whole output shaft from migrating back into the gearbox and the following?all happens: - this misalignment can contribute to derailing the blade, though a failed outer output shaft bearing is much more of an issue in the blade coming off (the extra clearance in the failed bearing allows the output shaft to bend under the blade tension, which steers the blade into derailing from the drive wheel)
- the drive bandwheel can rub on the sawframe casting (the axial forces from the worm and wheel and bending of the output shaft from the blade tension, tends to drive the shaft inward rather than outward)
- the brass gear loses its centering over the worm and rubs against the gearbox lid?
- In time the misalignment between worm and wheel will destroy the brass gear? ?
?I've measured this spacer as between 0.260" to 0.280" long on RF115/ RF128's. Cut one from a piece of 5/8" ID conduit if yours is missing, plastic or metal as there is very little force on it.? The actual length really needs to be determined from wherever the drive bandwheel sits on the output shaft when the blade tracks properly (back of the blade hits and misses the rim of the drive wheel when blade is at the proper tension). That's a whole other story which we can go into if your blade doesn't track properly after you've rebuilt the gearbox? I don't think a 3rd bearing would take any load,? the way the shaft flexes, But you may have a point.? Unfortunately the rubber seals on a 6202-RS bearing are only there to retain grease and are not supposed to be effective in sealing in oil and you definitely don't want oil leaks. Three bearings all with a single seal on the outside might well be a better and sealed bearing set, however I've not tried it.? The seal drag would be lots higher than standard, because Its way higher with just a 6202-2RS outer bearing (std is only a shielded? 6202-Z) - jv
Hi John, this is how the short shaft came out as I found the saw.
-The bearing is next to gear, then an oil seal, then a rubber like sqared O-ring and next bearing. Does the spacing of this looke original and correct-?
On Wed, May 10, 2023 at 7:22?PM Hettie Chom via <hettiechom= [email protected]> wrote: Hi, John, thanks for advice on oil etc...
I discovered a problem I don't like. The short shaft to the main drive pulley:
-The main drive pulley has play in it on the shaft=I took care of that. -Then I discovered that I have play moving the pulley , and its not coming from the pulley with key and no play there. -I then removed this pully, and can feel the play with two new bearings fitted......I am trying to figure this out, because the bearings fit snug to the shaft and in the housing....I am a bit confused at this..........Originally I thought it was a bit of a short distance shaft for driving a metal saw blade? at tention and was condidering fitting 3 sealed bearings in a row without an oil seal. Do you think oil can leak past 3 sealed bearings -? -I will then see if this clears up the problem.......
Sorry Gary didn't mean to dis you, you posted during the time I was still writing and I didn't see it - I agree it's nice to see the oil churning about and that there's enough of it still.?? Without the clear cover I would never have known that one of the oils?I tested (Lucas 75W-140 gear oil ), touted as being a '...synthetic gear oil...', almost instantly (<5sec) turned white (air/oil emulsion - which does not lubricate well at all).? I was testing mainly 'synthetic' oils as these normally lubricate better, but found that? the word 'synthetic', legally, has no defined meaning in relation to oil.? In fact it's not used by the American Petroleum Institute, who control oil products in the US, for that reason. Anyone can call their oil 'synthetic' if the least bit of it is synthesised and, let's face it, the additive packages that all multigrade oils contain are all synthesised. Let the buyer beware - jv? ?
Suggestion: Make a transparent cover for the gearbox. I made mine from 3/8¡± acrylic about 15 years ago and it¡¯s really nice to see the condition of the oil and gears while it¡¯s running.?
Gary
|
Re: Older Rongfu RF-115 bansaw details required
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Suggestion: Make a transparent cover for the gearbox. I made mine from 3/8¡± acrylic about 15 years ago and it¡¯s really nice to see the condition of the oil and gears while it¡¯s running.?
Gary
|
Re: Older Rongfu RF-115 bansaw details required
Sorry Gary didn't mean to dis you, you posted during the time I was still writing and I didn't see it - I agree it's nice to see the oil churning about and that there's enough of it still.?? Without the clear cover I would never have known that one of the oils?I tested (Lucas 75W-140 gear oil ), touted as being a '...synthetic gear oil...', almost instantly (<5sec) turned white (air/oil emulsion - which does not lubricate well at all).? I was testing mainly 'synthetic' oils as these normally lubricate better, but found that? the word 'synthetic', legally, has no defined meaning in relation to oil.? In fact it's not used by the American Petroleum Institute, who control oil products in the US, for that reason. Anyone can call their oil 'synthetic' if the least bit of it is synthesised and, let's face it, the additive packages that all multigrade oils contain are all synthesised. Let the buyer beware - jv? ?
Suggestion: Make a transparent cover for the gearbox. I made mine from 3/8¡± acrylic about 15 years ago and it¡¯s really nice to see the condition of the oil and gears while it¡¯s running.?
Gary
|
Re: Older Rongfu RF-115 bansaw details required
Sounds like you're onto it. I've done a lot of testing of different oils to see which controlled the heating up of the gearbox best. They all heat up quite significantly when cutting? continuously - 50F to 140F in 30min! Best oil (lowest heating) I found was Redline Heavy Shockproof 75W-250 for normal temperatures (use their Lightweight Shockproof 75W-140 if you are cutting when the saw is below freezing). It's expensive but being 100% synthetic polyol-ester base, you'll never need to change the oil again. Think of it as insurance in the longevity of your saw.? There are other very good oils out there, it's just that most of them are not available everywhere or in small quantities, whereas Redline is.? For an RF115 use 8floz (250ml). This volume is a pain to get in unless you lean the saw back, against the wall or your bench, until the top surface of the gearbox is not quite level. Precarious but do-able.? Ditch the rubber gasket and use red Loctite Mastergasket.? I've used 10mm clear lexan as the lid with a filler and drain plug so I could see and change the oil easily, but if you're never going to change the oil again there's not much point - jv
Hi John, I got everything cleaned and painted and replaced 4x bearings, had to make tools on lathe to get new bearings set on shaft with oil seales, ...sealed SKF bearings.? Today I installed the two gears in casing with shaft centrepoints hopefully alligned. I fitted the drive pulley, which had a very slight play, used paint trick to get it set stiff. I made a spacer between outer bearing and pulley so pully dont go deaper than it should for C-Clip at end of shaft. Now I just need to buy a new key fit to complete this part. From what I can gather the oil must be 85W-140 gear oil, now I am trying to find that oil locally and it not destroy bronze/brass gear, I am pretty happy how this part turned out. I could not find the info exactly I wanted, but after cleaning the shafts I found bearing markings as indication. It looks like the 2 gears are alligned correctly, I will test to confirm this later. The bearings press harder on shafts than on inner casings, I made use of freezer. I go on my logic here, I doubt I can totally trust previous assembly seeing it throw blades.
Hi Chris/Hettie Gearbox repair is?the most complicated part of working on these saws, but it appears you've got the gearbox apart?and that's a feat in itself. There is no OEM manual that has the info you require, they never did the manuals like that, however the information is known, though I haven't got it quite in the format you've asked for. It'll be quicker for me to PM you what I've got and we can discuss what extra you need from there - jv
Hi,
I recently aquired an older RongFU RF-114 model bandsaw to restore, it was throwing blades by previous owner.
I need to replace all bearings and seals.
?
I need the exact info/measurements placing the bearings on the two gearbox sfats plus the seal positions, seeing I cannot trust the way they came out when I received the saw.
?
How can I find a manual for this, and the precise installation instructions regarding the sma:: gearbox components.
?
Thankyou in advance
Chris/Hettie
|
Re: Older Rongfu RF-115 bansaw details required
Suggestion: Make a transparent cover for the gearbox. I made mine from 3/8¡± acrylic about 15 years ago and it¡¯s really nice to see the condition of the oil and gears while it¡¯s running.?
Gary
|
Re: Older Rongfu RF-115 bansaw details required
Hi Chris/Hettie Gearbox repair is?the most complicated part of working on these saws, but it appears you've got the gearbox apart?and that's a feat in itself. There is no OEM manual that has the info you require, they never did the manuals like that, however the information is known, though I haven't got it quite in the format you've asked for. It'll be quicker for me to PM you what I've got and we can discuss what extra you need from there - jv
Hi,
I recently aquired an older RongFU RF-114 model bandsaw to restore, it was throwing blades by previous owner.
I need to replace all bearings and seals.
?
I need the exact info/measurements placing the bearings on the two gearbox sfats plus the seal positions, seeing I cannot trust the way they came out when I received the saw.
?
How can I find a manual for this, and the precise installation instructions regarding the sma:: gearbox components.
?
Thankyou in advance
Chris/Hettie
|
Re: Older Rongfu RF-115 bansaw details required
This might help
https://manualzz.com/doc/26936882/saws-h-saw-rf-1018s-sv--part-list
Sent from Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
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Show quoted text
-------- Original message -------- From: hettiechom@... Date: 5/8/23 12:19 PM (GMT-05:00) Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Older Rongfu RF-115 bansaw details required
[Edited Message Follows]
Hi,
I recently aquired an older RongFU RF-114 model bandsaw to restore, it was throwing blades by previous owner.
I need to replace all bearings and seals.
?
I need the exact info/measurements placing the bearings on the two gearbox sfats plus the seal positions, seeing I cannot trust the way they came out when I received the saw.
?
How can I find a manual for this, and the precise installation instructions regarding the small gearbox components.
?
Thankyou in advance
Chris/Hettie
|
I have been missing this thread which is now more than 3 months old. I voted and found I am not a member of the majority. That's OK, I can chip in.
What I hear Mr. Downs saying is he needs people to contribute to the main A-C group also. ,I can chip in there, too. What I need is the PayPal account(s) to where I should send money.
RE: FB groups: I participate in several FB groups, (listed below) and yes it s sometimes difficult to search past postings but not impossible. It is surprising how popular the FB groups are as a platform for focused discussions.
There are other machinist related forums available, not just FB groups. Hobby-Machinist dot com is popular. H-M has a tiered contributor structure but permits non-paying registration. H-M has a hard line on snarky comments so one must be careful of what they say, and if you are active and/or download a lot of documents without being a paid subscriber you can get kicked off. Other groups of note include bbs.homeshopmachinist.net with more than 1 million posts in the General Discussion group, There is manual-machinist.proboards.com with all of 70 registered members, practicalmachinist.com is by far and above the largest, but tends to cater to those who are employed professionals and the members are sometimes impatient with hobbyists. Homemachinist (chaski.org/homemachinist) has more than 15,000 members and has a structured format with multiple categories for discussion. There is a host of others that can be found with a google search for "machinist forums." And there is machinistweb.com which I administer. It has a categorized format with specific lathe and milling machine brands, a Sawing Shop, a Welding Shop, Off-Topic Lounge, documentation library and a place to buy and sell parts and machinery. Registration is required to view and download images and documents but registration is free. The site is supported by members' voluntary contributions.
The bottom line is I will support this 4x6 bandsaw forum as well as the Atlas/Craftsman Metal Working Machines forum, but there are other places on the Internet where we can all gain help and share our experiences.
Raymond
Subscribed Forums:
/g/atlas-craftsman
/g/4x6bandsaw
(administrator)
Atlas And Craftsman lathes
Home hobby machinist buy sell trade
Band sawmill talk
The Manual Machinist
And a few others unrelated to machinery of any kind.
?
?
?
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Back when it became obvious to most that Yahoo Groups was going to shut down, and the Groups.io rates got published, and so on, I had just become co-owner of the Atlas-Craftsman main group. After several weeks of discussion of what to do by way of funding the new Group, I set up a (second) PayPal account and set the Groups.io account to bill it monthly. After looking at the PayPal details I concluded that about $10.00 donation made more sense than $5.00 because it cost about the same amount so the yield was better. However, beyond mentioning that fact, no firm amount was actually specified. As best I recall, most of the existing members gave $10.00, a few gave $5.00 and a few gave $15.00 or $20.00. I think that all took place in about 2018 so it would be about time to ring the bell again for the A-C group. :-)
Robert Downs
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-----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto: [email protected]] On Behalf Of Terry Coombs Sent: Friday, December 18, 2020 19:13 To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] What Should We Do About Group Storage? On 12/18/2020 5:35 PM, Tom Angell via groups.io wrote: I think it would help everyone if you listed a suggested amount for the
donation.
Tom Angell
Falls Church, VA
Five bucks has been suggested by more than one ... -- Snag
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Re: Vice mods for odd angle cuts ideas.
Oops the last edits didn't upload to the .pdf.? - jv
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Re: Vice mods for odd angle cuts ideas.
Hi all
Here is a jig for cutting sheet metal at all angles that I've used until the prototype fell apart.
I've just redesigned it to make easier to make and use.
Sorry its taken so long Dave - jv
P.S. -? I have put it into Files section?
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Re: OT- Looking for suggestions regarding a saw
That's not a bad idea, except that I already have a Keller with both heads. Still, that's a great idea.
-Dave
On Wednesday, January 4, 2023 at 04:33:52 PM PST, David Pidwerbecki <dpidwerbecki@...> wrote:
This looks like the beginnings of a die filer to me. ? ?You have your motor low. ? I know there are plans on the web. ? I think a lot of them use a scotch yoke type of drive. ? It might be a fun project. ? I use my die filer a fair bit.
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Re: OT- Looking for suggestions regarding a saw
??? ??? Can you use the table to make a die filer ?
??? ??? animal
On 1/4/2023 3:58 PM, Dave Seiter wrote:
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Last spring I found what was
left of a Cheshire & Greenfield "trimmiter," which is a
small trimming saw used for linotype at an estate sale for $5
and couldn't say no.? It's missing the arbor assembly, but
even if it was complete, the table is only about the size of a
laptop, so it's usefulness would be limited.? Anyone still
using linotype probably already has one, or something similar.
So the question is: what
should I do with it?? I'd like to repurpose it as another
machine tool, while keeping it as original as possible.? It's
about 4' tall, heavy and solid.? The height of the table can
be adjusted 5" or and there is a motor mount on the base.
Someone suggested a stand for grinders, but I already have
three grinders on another stand (one is bolted to the top of
it, and the other two pivot on top of an extension welded to
the side of the stand, so they can be positioned as needed).?
I also considered putting a surface plate on it, but that's a
lot of weight, and it would be offset, which might make it
tippy.
-Dave
|
Re: OT- Looking for suggestions regarding a saw
This looks like the beginnings of a die filer to me. ? ?You have your motor low. ? I know there are plans on the web. ? I think a lot of them use a scotch yoke type of drive. ? It might be a fun project. ? I use my die filer a fair bit.
|
Re: OT- Looking for suggestions regarding a saw
It could act as an adjustable height infeed/outfeed dable for a saw (assuming the rack still works.
Alternatively if the surface plate holder idea is attractive, the tippy¡± can be fixed by either bolting it to your floor, or to a larger sheet of plywood, or legs
?
 Jim
Klessig
Senior Power Systems Engineer
?
Phone
+1 707.497.9611?
Jim.Klessig@...?
|? Connect with us at
?
?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]>
On Behalf Of Dave Seiter
Sent: Wednesday, January 4, 2023 3:59 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [4x6bandsaw] OT- Looking for suggestions regarding a saw
?
CAUTION: This email originated from outside of Vertiv. Do not click links or open attachments unless
you recognize the sender and know the content is safe.
?
Last spring I found what was left of a Cheshire & Greenfield "trimmiter," which is a small trimming saw used for linotype at an estate sale for $5 and couldn't say no.? It's
missing the arbor assembly, but even if it was complete, the table is only about the size of a laptop, so it's usefulness would be limited.? Anyone still using linotype probably already has one, or something similar.
So the question is: what should I do with it?? I'd like to repurpose it as another machine tool, while keeping it as original as possible.? It's about 4' tall, heavy and
solid.? The height of the table can be adjusted 5" or and there is a motor mount on the base. Someone suggested a stand for grinders, but I already have three grinders on another stand (one is bolted to the top of it, and the other two pivot on top of an extension
welded to the side of the stand, so they can be positioned as needed).? I also considered putting a surface plate on it, but that's a lot of weight, and it would be offset, which might make it tippy.
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This e-mail and any files transmitted with it are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed and may contain confidential and privileged information protected by law. If you received this e-mail
in error, any review, use, dissemination, distribution, or copying of the e-mail is strictly prohibited. Please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete all copies from your system.
|
OT- Looking for suggestions regarding a saw
Last spring I found what was left of a Cheshire & Greenfield "trimmiter," which is a small trimming saw used for linotype at an estate sale for $5 and couldn't say no.? It's missing the arbor assembly, but even if it was complete, the table is only about the size of a laptop, so it's usefulness would be limited.? Anyone still using linotype probably already has one, or something similar.
So the question is: what should I do with it?? I'd like to repurpose it as another machine tool, while keeping it as original as possible.? It's about 4' tall, heavy and solid.? The height of the table can be adjusted 5" or and there is a motor mount on the base. Someone suggested a stand for grinders, but I already have three grinders on another stand (one is bolted to the top of it, and the other two pivot on top of an extension welded to the side of the stand, so they can be positioned as needed).? I also considered putting a surface plate on it, but that's a lot of weight, and it would be offset, which might make it tippy.
-Dave
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Re: Vice mods for odd angle cuts ideas.
Don't dismiss Wheeler's vee block. It doesn't have to be steel. There is no great rigidity requirement. A few layers of plywood and a couple of minutes work on the vertical table and you could have any size vee block you wanted.....?
Thanks all for the responses.
thanks for the link Wheeler. ? I haven¡¯t thought about using a piece of steel to clean out the teeth when cutting aluminum. I also haven¡¯t thought about using a V block. ? Unfortunately, I don¡¯t have a huge V block, but the idea is in the head now.
Bill-I can see where the rotating head saws are super useful. ? Unfortunately, I have the old green paint 4x6.? I have to admit, it took me a minute to figure out that you were rotating the head relative to the table and vice.
It¡¯s good to hear from you John. ? I hope you have safe travels and enjoy your family.
This is no rush. ? With the price of steel, copper, brass, etc. now, I¡¯m trying to cut pieces rather than milling/turning and making a lot of chips.
I also like the idea of using the saw on small sheet metal parts-these can be laid out and cut rather precisely.
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John Vreede
Chuck Peterson
