Re: Entire head coming down at an angle?
I just filed the old shaft.? Mark's lathe method is for those that have one.
I thought you said you needed to put shim under the RHS (next to the blade). If that is the case you file or turn off the shaft on the RHS, because you are lowering the shaft and so eliminating the need for shim.??
If you needed 0.033" of shim then one jaw is moved only 0.033", but the Total Indicated Runout will be 0.066".?
Be careful when turning and approach the amount you think you need to take off in several bites, a series of "80% of remaining amount" is about right.? Its easy to replace the shaft, try out and confirm the improved squareness.? It's hard to put back metal if you've turned off too much! - jv
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Re: My Bandsaw Modifications
Hi Dave
I liked the bladed scraper best and first used it to stop buildup of aluminium on the blade when I ran ~7thou guide roller clearance, since buildup on the blade affects the slant of the blade between the side guide rollers and thus squareness.
Then I realised with any sort of blade scraper you can run zero clearance on the side guide rollers, since the swarf running between the blade and rollers was what was destroying them and made us go to 7thou clearance in the first place and so I made the UHMWPE version.
Now I've made side guide rollers that sit with one ~1/4" higher or lower than the other and can run 'negative' clearance (less than 0.025") and the blade 'snakes' between the rollers and swarf has no effect on longevity of the guide bearings. .
However you have to completely remake the whole guide assembly to do that.
So now I don't need a scraper.?
My advice would be to make a UHMWPE or Acetal (Delrin) scraper and see if it does what you want. If the buildup on the blade is still unacceptable then make the HSS scraper version as its a lot more work. Run zero blade to guide roller clearance i. e. 0.025" between the rollers. Another advantage of the plastic scraper is that you can leave it in place when the vertical table is on, where you have to remove the bladed one.?
The correct cutting fluid for aluminium is kerosene (use deodorised stuff), just enough to wet the teeth not flood, then it evaporates off between uses minimising the mess. Kero will do for copper too. Don't use any cutting fluid for brass (it breaks up like cast iron, doesn't stick in the gullets & conducts heat really well so no need for lube or coolant) - jv
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On Monday, December 14, 2020, 6:05 PM, John Vreede <vreededesign@...> wrote: Hi guys
I voted to keep the group free since I think it should be unrestricted but if that's not possible, then I'd certainly pay my dues
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Re: Entire head coming down at an angle?
Hi John,
Did you make a new shaft to cut the relief into rather than modify the stock shaft?? ?I have some 5/8" cold rolled steel I was going to cut and make into a new shaft.
Thanks for reposting your paper.? ?I'm going to use a 4 Jaw Chuck which will allow me to dial in the relief fairly closely.? ?I plotted my data, and I need to remove about 0.033" to bring my saw to zero on the left hand side.? ?If I used a 4Jaw and initially centered the shaft, I would have to move two opposing jaws so that dial indicator would be 0.066" difference.? ?
This will be an interesting activity!
Dave
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Hi guys
I voted to keep the group free since I think it should be unrestricted but if that's not possible, then I'd certainly pay my dues
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Re: My Bandsaw Modifications
Thanks for the link John and Rob!
I have some paraffin wax.? I'll try it on the blade.
John, do you use a blade scraper on your saw?? Is this necessary when using wax or oil on aluminum/brass/copper? I like the version made from band saw blade. I can make one and try it out.? I currently have a felt pad to clean the blade but I think it is worthless.? ?Do you ever have to change the blades on your scraper?
I'm definitely going to get this figured out over Christmas vacation.
I might keep the oiler for aluminum/brass/copper cutting.? ?I think I need to potentially use oil rather than cutting fluid and not use very much of it.
Dave
Dave
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Re: My Bandsaw Modifications
For quick jobs on aluminium I use a block of paraffin wax rubbed in the teeth for similar less mess. Old candles are paraffin wax if you want to try it. Need to do it every 20 seconds or so.?
I mostly cut aluminum and brass, so I didn't go with an oiler either, plus the mess of dealing with it. I use a wax stick made for cutting metal-?
It works well and isn't too messy. It does get in the blade brushes a little bit, but they still function.
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Re: My Bandsaw Modifications
I mostly cut aluminum and brass, so I didn't go with an oiler either, plus the mess of dealing with it. I use a wax stick made for cutting metal-?
It works well and isn't too messy. It does get in the blade brushes a little bit, but they still function.
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Re: Entire head coming down at an angle?
Got it. Many thanks.
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On Dec 14, 2020, at 5:45 AM, John Vreede <vreededesign@...> wrote:
<Correcting vertical squareness on a 4x6 Bandsaw v1.pdf>
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Re: Entire head coming down at an angle?
Jack try this fix.?? Was supposed to be in the Files section but we've had problems getting any attachments to stick, so I suggest you download it immediately as it is sure to disappear within a short time - jv?
On Wed, Nov 25, 2020 at 2:14 PM Jack Dinan < jack@...> wrote: I also have this problem. It makes my saw almost useless for cutting in the vise.? I resort to cutting on the little table whenever possible. ?
I went back and forth adjusting the blade guides, tracking, and whatnot over and over again trying to get my Harbor Freight red to cut straight. Eventually I realized I was chasing my tail by putting a long straight edge on the vise bringing the saw up and down. At the top of the straight edge, the blade was at least a couple mm to the right (if facing the on-off switch) of where it ended up when it finally came all the way down! So this means the entire head is attached to the table crooked and the head of the saw is coming down to the table at an angle, rather than perpendicular. Ugh.
Is there any way I can deal with this problem? The saw assembly seems to pivot on this big pin that is between two pillow block-like things that are part of the table casting. I don't see anywhere that I could add a shim or anything to correct this. Is there something I can do to get this cutting straight down and perpendicular with the table? Is the whole thing just junk because of this manufacturing flaw?
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Re: My Bandsaw Modifications
Dave? Have a look at this doc in the files section Blade brushes are in my opinion for clearing the blade of swarf which?only really needs doing when cutting soft 'sticky' materials like aluminium or copper where the swarf sticks in the gullet and then that gullet overloads the next time around causing the blade to veer off-course as the soft swarf gets squished out form the overfull gullet into the space between the kerf wall and the blade body.? Steel swarf doesn't need clearing since it falls away, unless you use coolant when it sticks to the wet blade but as you discovered?more to the sides of the blade than the teeth, thats where the blade scraper works to reduce the swarf load on the brush - jv
[Edited Message Follows]
Hi Rob,
Thanks for the encouraging words.
I tried an Oiler tonight. I made a crude model just to test the concept.? I would not recommend building something like the one I made or I need to redesign it.? ?It does apply cutting fluid to the blade and the parts do come out with a slightly better surface finish and are significantly cooler, but the cutting fluid makes a mess with the swarf and basically makes clumps of oil and swarf that collect on the blade guides and block that I'm using to apply the cutting fluid.? ?My blade brush was loading up with oil and swarf too.? ?Maybe I had too high of an oil drip rate or maybe I should try a more viscous oil, but I would not recommend this design with cutting fluid.
I made a block out of 5/8" square stock to apply the cutting fluid to the blade.? ?I cut the block with the saw and this was just the perfect size for sitting over the non cutting side of the blade.? ?I tapped the block with a 1/8" NPT and made a 3/32" port from the pipe fitting to the slot in the block..? ?I bought two 1" pipe caps and a 3" long, 1" diameter pipe nipple to make the cutting fluid container.? ?I used a 1/8" NPT needle valve to regulate the fluid flow.? ?I used magnets to located the block on the blade guides and to locate the fluid container on the saw frame.? ?I used aquarium tubing to connect between the valve and the block.
This did work, but it made a mess.? The cutting fluid was smoking (as it should) and the surface quality was better.? ?I have a hydraulic down feed cylinder so I kept the descent rate about the same as when I saw dry.? ?The part was definitely cooler after cutting, so the blade life may be improved by using an oiler.
I think I will just go back to cutting dry.? ?I thought I would share this so if other were thinking about doing this mod, that they would be aware of the issues I had.
Dave
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Re: My Bandsaw Modifications
Hi Rob,
Thanks for the encouraging words.
I tried an Oiler tonight. I made a crude model just to test the concept.? I would not recommend building something like the one I made or I need to redesign it.? ?It does apply cutting fluid to the blade and the parts do come out with a slightly better surface finish and are significantly cooler, but the cutting fluid makes a mess with the swarf and basically makes clumps of oil and swarf that collect on the blade guides and block that I'm using to apply the cutting fluid.? ?My blade brush was loading up with oil and swarf too.? ?Maybe I had too high of an oil drip rate or maybe I should try a more viscous oil, but I would not recommend this design with cutting fluid.
I made a block out of 5/8" square stock to apply the cutting fluid to the blade.? ?I cut the block with the saw and this was just the perfect size for sitting over the non cutting side of the blade.? ?I tapped the block with a 1/8" NPT and made a 3/32" port from the pipe fitting to the slot in the block..? ?I bought two 1" pipe caps and a 3" long, 1" diameter pipe nipple to make the cutting fluid container.? ?I used a 1/8" NPT needle valve to regulate the fluid flow.? ?I used magnets to located the block on the blade guides and to locate the fluid container on the saw frame.? ?I used aquarium tubing to connect between the valve and the block.
This did work, but it made a mess.? The cutting fluid was smoking (as it should) and the surface quality was better.? ?I have a hydraulic down feed cylinder so I kept the descent rate about the same as when I saw dry.? ?The part was definitely cooler after cutting, so the blade life may be improved by using an oiler.
I think I will just go back to cutting dry.? ?I thought I would share this so if other were thinking about doing this mod, that they would be aware of the issues I had.
Dave
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Well, that didn't quite work like I intended, but it's created. I was going to put more possible answers, and suddenly I was back to the main group screen. I've voted, and I will contribute. I figure that I'm not that well known on this group, so someone else should be in charge of collecting and applying the contributions to upgrading the group. Owner would be best, IMHO.?
The one paid group I own, I have paid annually on one of my personal credit cards. I also have several co-owners who have the same rights and priviledges I have. Any one of them could take over the group, so it should be someone known and trusted by the other owners.?
Bill in OKC?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)
On Sunday, December 13, 2020, 12:19:49 PM CST, Bill in OKC too via groups.io <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:
A new poll has been created:
We seem to be running low on storage space: Free groups are limited to 1GB, where Premium groups have 20GB of storage. Free groups are, of course, free. Premium groups cost $200/year (paid yearly), or $20/month. ($240/year paid monthly)
1. Keep the group free.
2. Make the group a paid group, and I will contribute to paying for it.
3. Make the group a paid group, but I will not contribute.
4. I'm a lurker, but I will contribute/
Vote Now
Do not reply to this message to vote in the poll. You can vote in polls only through the group's website.
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We seem to be running low on storage space: Free groups are limited to 1GB, where Premium groups have 20GB of storage. Free groups are, of course, free. Premium groups cost $200/year (paid yearly), or $20/month. ($240/year paid monthly)
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Re: Upgrading the group, or... - Was: Re: Uploading Photos and Files to [email protected].
From reading the owners manual a two tiered group is not possible.?
If this group was created before 1-15-20, subgroups would be the way to go. Each one would have 1 gig of storage.?
Im not opposed to the upgrade as the cost is like 50 cents a year. But managing the collection sounds like a big task.?
Ken
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Re: Upgrading the group, or... - Was: Re: Uploading Photos and Files to [email protected].
And please include a way for us non-paypal folks to contribute our share.
On 12/12/2020 1:16:12 AM, Michael Conlee <mconlee@...> wrote:
>
We still need to address the elephant in the
> room, namely, do we need to poll the members (over 4,000) to see if enough donations can be
> collected to cover the $220.00 fee to upgrade the group or do we want it to remain "free"? If
> the group wishes to remain "free", there?s going to have to be some serious "weeding" to do to
> the photos section, to reduce the size. I?m open to suggestions or solutions.
is membership in this group worth 5 bucks a year to you? i would
give that.
Ned on the smithy group had the same problem and he took
donations into his paypal account marked as gifts.
i don't participate in this group much, im more of a lurker.. i read
and use what i find if i can. but its worth it to me.
five bucks a year isnt much to access the expertise and
experience of others.
mconlee
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I am a looky loo but 5 bucks is worth it.? Will keep a eye out for when and where to send it.
Joe in PA
On Saturday, December 12, 2020, 08:55:22 PM EST, Rob M. <robmuckley@...> wrote:
I¡¯m willing to chip in too.
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I¡¯m willing to chip in too.
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John Vreede
Bill in OKC too