Re: Setting up a new shop... seeking advice
Oh, one more thing – my walls are covered with this plastic sheet that you sometimes see in commercial bathrooms. It is a snap to wipe up oil that has flung from a machine. Trying to get oil off of drywall is hard. This plastic is also tough. It takes heavy bumps without showing it. ? Being bright white, at least when new, it reflects light well. ? Rick ?
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From: [email protected] On Behalf Of rfmarchi1 via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 2020 10:23 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Setting up a new shop... seeking advice ? Strange topic, but possibly an interesting one. I live in on a house barge on the Potomac River in Washington, DC and have had a shop at a weekend cabin in West Virginia since 2008. For many years we spend weekends at the cabin and the shop was my recreation while my wife was gardening. As years have passed and my mobility has declined that arrangement has become difficult. We recently bought a new house in Southern Maryland with a two car garage and I relocated all the machinery (Burke #4 horizontal mill, Atlas 10” lathe, 12” table saw, 13” planer, 6” jointer, 16 speed floor model drill press, 6” horizontal band saw, 14” vertical band saw, a couple of bench grinders, miscellaneous power and manual tools, a couple of rolling tool chests and a couple of machinists tool boxes, etc.). The WV shop was about ? the size of the garage and I’d be interested in the group’s suggestions for setting up a new shop. The old shop was uninsulated and heated by a wood stove and measured 14’ X 22’. It had a 30 A, 240 V breaker panel and 120V 20 A outlets generously distributed on the side walls, plus an overhead 20 A electric reel that reached almost anywhere in the shop. It had two sets of metal shelving, a couple of sets of 2X4 framed shelving along the walls, and a 2” deep X 8’ long workbench along one wall with storage underneath.? It was lit by four 4’ fluorescent, two lamp lighting fixtures mounted on the trusses. It had a 10’ clearance to the roof trusses and a 2 ton chain fall supported across six trusses. I moved that to the garage in MD. Neither shop has a finished ceiling. The garage is unheated and uninsulated but attached to the house and could be insulated in the future. The house lot is well shaded and on a really hot (90+ degrees F) the shop is comfortable with both the garage doors open. The garage currently has only one 15 A circuit for a couple of overhead bare bulb light fixtures and the garage door openers. I have an electrician coming shortly to add at least 20 A circuit with multiple outlets, and possibly a 30 A 240V sub panel. Since it is a one-man shop I never need to run more than one piece of machinery at a time, so the total amperage is less of a concern than having a lot of convenient outlets. So, having enjoyed the advice of the group for 10 – 12 years, I wonder what suggestions you have for setting up a brand new shop. Be innovative, we may all learn something in the process.
|
Re: Setting up a new shop... seeking advice
Too bad, you are moving. I always enjoyed hearing about your floating shop. People would argue with me about the importance of leveling a lathe, and I would point to your arrangement. ? My shop is 150 square feet and has served me well for over 15 years. I put in a big sub box and 20 circuit breakers. Each outlet box is on a separate circuit. I can then change any box from 120V to 220V as needed. The extra cost in breakers and wires was minimal. It has saved me a few times. I do have an outlet in the ceiling which feeds a cord reel but rarely need it. ? I have a smoke alarm that is connected to the smoke alarm grid in the house. If there is a fire in the shop when I’m not there, I still want to know about it. ? The ceiling is covered in fluorescent fixtures. IIRC, there is a KW up there. You can never have enough light. If I could have put in a skylight, I would have done it. ? Since this is Phoenix, A/C was essential. I installed a 1-ton split unit after two wall units died. No need for heat in the “winter.” The walls filled with insulation but, more importantly, the attic has a blanket about 12-inches thick. In the heat of summer, the attic gets to 200°F. ? After framing but before I hung the sheetrock, I coated the concrete floor with an epoxy-based paint. It has held up OK, not great. On the few times I dropped something heavy and chipped the floor, it was really obvious. In a few places, it has worn off. Maybe there is a better product available now. My previous shop had no paint on the floor, and the concrete was of poor quality. It always felt like I was walking on fine sand. ? Best of luck with your new place, ? Rick ?
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From: [email protected] On Behalf Of rfmarchi1 via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 2020 10:23 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Setting up a new shop... seeking advice ? Strange topic, but possibly an interesting one. I live in on a house barge on the Potomac River in Washington, DC and have had a shop at a weekend cabin in West Virginia since 2008. For many years we spend weekends at the cabin and the shop was my recreation while my wife was gardening. As years have passed and my mobility has declined that arrangement has become difficult. We recently bought a new house in Southern Maryland with a two car garage and I relocated all the machinery (Burke #4 horizontal mill, Atlas 10” lathe, 12” table saw, 13” planer, 6” jointer, 16 speed floor model drill press, 6” horizontal band saw, 14” vertical band saw, a couple of bench grinders, miscellaneous power and manual tools, a couple of rolling tool chests and a couple of machinists tool boxes, etc.). The WV shop was about ? the size of the garage and I’d be interested in the group’s suggestions for setting up a new shop. The old shop was uninsulated and heated by a wood stove and measured 14’ X 22’. It had a 30 A, 240 V breaker panel and 120V 20 A outlets generously distributed on the side walls, plus an overhead 20 A electric reel that reached almost anywhere in the shop. It had two sets of metal shelving, a couple of sets of 2X4 framed shelving along the walls, and a 2” deep X 8’ long workbench along one wall with storage underneath.? It was lit by four 4’ fluorescent, two lamp lighting fixtures mounted on the trusses. It had a 10’ clearance to the roof trusses and a 2 ton chain fall supported across six trusses. I moved that to the garage in MD. Neither shop has a finished ceiling. The garage is unheated and uninsulated but attached to the house and could be insulated in the future. The house lot is well shaded and on a really hot (90+ degrees F) the shop is comfortable with both the garage doors open. The garage currently has only one 15 A circuit for a couple of overhead bare bulb light fixtures and the garage door openers. I have an electrician coming shortly to add at least 20 A circuit with multiple outlets, and possibly a 30 A 240V sub panel. Since it is a one-man shop I never need to run more than one piece of machinery at a time, so the total amperage is less of a concern than having a lot of convenient outlets. So, having enjoyed the advice of the group for 10 – 12 years, I wonder what suggestions you have for setting up a brand new shop. Be innovative, we may all learn something in the process.
|
Re: Setting up a new shop... seeking advice
Before you get everything moved in, paint the floor with a 2-part solvent based epoxy paint.? The water based stuff may be ok too, but I'm skeptical.? I painted my garage floor about 10 years ago, and it has held up great.? Clean any grease and oil stains as much as you can, then etch the concrete with muriatic acid (google for safety info), then roll the paint on.
-Joe
Strange topic, but possibly an interesting one.
I live in on a house barge on the Potomac River in Washington, DC and have had a shop at a weekend cabin in West Virginia since 2008. For many years we spend weekends at the cabin and the shop was my recreation while my wife was gardening. As years have passed and my mobility has declined that arrangement has become difficult. We recently bought a new house in Southern Maryland with a two car garage and I relocated all the machinery (Burke #4 horizontal mill, Atlas 10” lathe, 12” table saw, 13” planer, 6” jointer, 16 speed floor model drill press, 6” horizontal band saw, 14” vertical band saw, a couple of bench grinders, miscellaneous power and manual tools, a couple of rolling tool chests and a couple of machinists tool boxes, etc.). The WV shop was about ? the size of the garage and I’d be interested in the group’s suggestions for setting up a new shop.
The old shop was uninsulated and heated by a wood stove and measured 14’ X 22’. It had a 30 A, 240 V breaker panel and 120V 20 A outlets generously distributed on the side walls, plus an overhead 20 A electric reel that reached almost anywhere in the shop. It had two sets of metal shelving, a couple of sets of 2X4 framed shelving along the walls, and a 2” deep X 8’ long workbench along one wall with storage underneath. ?It was lit by four 4’ fluorescent, two lamp lighting fixtures mounted on the trusses. It had a 10’ clearance to the roof trusses and a 2 ton chain fall supported across six trusses. I moved that to the garage in MD. Neither shop has a finished ceiling.
The garage is unheated and uninsulated but attached to the house and could be insulated in the future. The house lot is well shaded and on a really hot (90+ degrees F) the shop is comfortable with both the garage doors open. The garage currently has only one 15 A circuit for a couple of overhead bare bulb light fixtures and the garage door openers. I have an electrician coming shortly to add at least 20 A circuit with multiple outlets, and possibly a 30 A 240V sub panel. Since it is a one-man shop I never need to run more than one piece of machinery at a time, so the total amperage is less of a concern than having a lot of convenient outlets.
So, having enjoyed the advice of the group for 10 – 12 years, I wonder what suggestions you have for setting up a brand new shop. Be innovative, we may all learn something in the process.
|
Re: Setting up a new shop... seeking advice
What the walls are made of make no difference,
what causes the rust is fast changes in temperature.? Going from
cold to warm rapidly causes moisture to condense on the tools.
Also, do NOT allow your wife to do her woodworking in there!? The
sawdust that gets on everything is acid and attracts moisture!
On 7/14/20 11:07 AM, donnygadee via
groups.io wrote:
I am
about to do this, too, with my current workshop becoming
accommodation.? I was going to put up a steel workshop and
insulate it, but a friend suggested all my tools would rust and
that wood would be better. Is this true?
Philip
--
Jerry Durand, WhatsApp, Telegram, VK
&
|
Re: Setting up a new shop... seeking advice
I am about to do this, too, with my current workshop becoming accommodation.? I was going to put up a steel workshop and insulate it, but a friend suggested all my tools would rust and that wood would be better. Is this true?
Philip
|
Re: Setting up a new shop... seeking advice
How much do you have to spend? ? Rick Lathrop ? ?
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From: rfmarchi1 via groups.ioSent: Tuesday, July 14, 2020 1:23 PM To: [email protected]Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Setting up a new shop... seeking advice ? Strange topic, but possibly an interesting one. I live in on a house barge on the Potomac River in Washington, DC and have had a shop at a weekend cabin in West Virginia since 2008. For many years we spend weekends at the cabin and the shop was my recreation while my wife was gardening. As years have passed and my mobility has declined that arrangement has become difficult. We recently bought a new house in Southern Maryland with a two car garage and I relocated all the machinery (Burke #4 horizontal mill, Atlas 10” lathe, 12” table saw, 13” planer, 6” jointer, 16 speed floor model drill press, 6” horizontal band saw, 14” vertical band saw, a couple of bench grinders, miscellaneous power and manual tools, a couple of rolling tool chests and a couple of machinists tool boxes, etc.). The WV shop was about ? the size of the garage and I’d be interested in the group’s suggestions for setting up a new shop. The old shop was uninsulated and heated by a wood stove and measured 14’ X 22’. It had a 30 A, 240 V breaker panel and 120V 20 A outlets generously distributed on the side walls, plus an overhead 20 A electric reel that reached almost anywhere in the shop. It had two sets of metal shelving, a couple of sets of 2X4 framed shelving along the walls, and a 2” deep X 8’ long workbench along one wall with storage underneath.? It was lit by four 4’ fluorescent, two lamp lighting fixtures mounted on the trusses. It had a 10’ clearance to the roof trusses and a 2 ton chain fall supported across six trusses. I moved that to the garage in MD. Neither shop has a finished ceiling. The garage is unheated and uninsulated but attached to the house and could be insulated in the future. The house lot is well shaded and on a really hot (90+ degrees F) the shop is comfortable with both the garage doors open. The garage currently has only one 15 A circuit for a couple of overhead bare bulb light fixtures and the garage door openers. I have an electrician coming shortly to add at least 20 A circuit with multiple outlets, and possibly a 30 A 240V sub panel. Since it is a one-man shop I never need to run more than one piece of machinery at a time, so the total amperage is less of a concern than having a lot of convenient outlets. So, having enjoyed the advice of the group for 10 – 12 years, I wonder what suggestions you have for setting up a brand new shop. Be innovative, we may all learn something in the process.
|
Re: Setting up a new shop... seeking advice
I forgot, I do have one overhead power circuit.
On 7/14/20 10:50 AM, Ralph Hulslander
wrote:
The first thing I would do is to maybe have two
overhead 20 A electric reel that reached almost anywhere in the
shop.
With the reels you do not have to cover your walls with
outlets. Probably one or two may be dedicated for certain
machinery but in general just use the reels.
Ralph
--
Jerry Durand, WhatsApp, Telegram, VK
&
|
Re: Setting up a new shop... seeking advice
The first thing I would do is to maybe have two overhead 20 A electric reel that reached almost anywhere in the shop.
With the reels you do not have to cover your walls with outlets. Probably one or two may be dedicated for certain machinery but in general just use the reels.
Ralph
On Tue, Jul 14, 2020 at 1:36 PM Jerry Durand < jdurand@...> wrote:
Here are some things I'm doing with the shop in our new home (under
construction now), not everything will apply to you.
Bright lights!? Provision for two 48W LED fixtures, DC operated LEDs
so zero flicker.
HEATED!? Tired of freezing my digits off in the winter.
Skylight (more light, opens to vent fumes, summer heat).
Two windows, placed higher than normal so benches can push to wall
with low shelves.
Large door.? No garage door.? The front is a wide entry door with
the extra leaf that opens.
Porch set up as a small loading dock at end of driveway.? Railing
will swing away to allow loading/unloading from car roof or pickup
truck.
Lots of outlets.? Most 16A, 220V 50Hz, one 380V for the milling
machine.? Two 220V outlets designated as high current for welder,
one just inside the door and one outside on corner of house partway
down the driveway.
Outside flat concrete work area at top of driveway.? Can park an
extra car or use for welding/assembly.
In this picture the workshop is the 1 story part to the right.? The
flat work area will be the rectangle formed by the front corner of
the house and the near side of the shop.? The driveway and work area
will be roofed.
Inside
On 7/14/20 10:22 AM, rfmarchi1 via
wrote:
So, having
enjoyed the advice of the group for 10 – 12 years, I wonder what
suggestions you have for setting up a brand new shop. Be
innovative, we may all learn something in the process.
|
Re: Setting up a new shop... seeking advice
Here are some things I'm doing with the shop in our new home (under
construction now), not everything will apply to you.
Bright lights!? Provision for two 48W LED fixtures, DC operated LEDs
so zero flicker.
HEATED!? Tired of freezing my digits off in the winter.
Skylight (more light, opens to vent fumes, summer heat).
Two windows, placed higher than normal so benches can push to wall
with low shelves.
Large door.? No garage door.? The front is a wide entry door with
the extra leaf that opens.
Porch set up as a small loading dock at end of driveway.? Railing
will swing away to allow loading/unloading from car roof or pickup
truck.
Lots of outlets.? Most 16A, 220V 50Hz, one 380V for the milling
machine.? Two 220V outlets designated as high current for welder,
one just inside the door and one outside on corner of house partway
down the driveway.
Outside flat concrete work area at top of driveway.? Can park an
extra car or use for welding/assembly.
In this picture the workshop is the 1 story part to the right.? The
flat work area will be the rectangle formed by the front corner of
the house and the near side of the shop.? The driveway and work area
will be roofed.
Inside
On 7/14/20 10:22 AM, rfmarchi1 via
groups.io wrote:
So, having
enjoyed the advice of the group for 10 – 12 years, I wonder what
suggestions you have for setting up a brand new shop. Be
innovative, we may all learn something in the process.
_._,_._,_
--
Jerry Durand, WhatsApp, Telegram, VK
&
|
Setting up a new shop... seeking advice
Strange topic, but possibly an interesting one.
I live in on a house barge on the Potomac River in Washington, DC and have had a shop at a weekend cabin in West Virginia since 2008. For many years we spend weekends at the cabin and the shop was my recreation while my wife was gardening. As years have passed and my mobility has declined that arrangement has become difficult. We recently bought a new house in Southern Maryland with a two car garage and I relocated all the machinery (Burke #4 horizontal mill, Atlas 10” lathe, 12” table saw, 13” planer, 6” jointer, 16 speed floor model drill press, 6” horizontal band saw, 14” vertical band saw, a couple of bench grinders, miscellaneous power and manual tools, a couple of rolling tool chests and a couple of machinists tool boxes, etc.). The WV shop was about ? the size of the garage and I’d be interested in the group’s suggestions for setting up a new shop.
The old shop was uninsulated and heated by a wood stove and measured 14’ X 22’. It had a 30 A, 240 V breaker panel and 120V 20 A outlets generously distributed on the side walls, plus an overhead 20 A electric reel that reached almost anywhere in the shop. It had two sets of metal shelving, a couple of sets of 2X4 framed shelving along the walls, and a 2” deep X 8’ long workbench along one wall with storage underneath. ?It was lit by four 4’ fluorescent, two lamp lighting fixtures mounted on the trusses. It had a 10’ clearance to the roof trusses and a 2 ton chain fall supported across six trusses. I moved that to the garage in MD. Neither shop has a finished ceiling.
The garage is unheated and uninsulated but attached to the house and could be insulated in the future. The house lot is well shaded and on a really hot (90+ degrees F) the shop is comfortable with both the garage doors open. The garage currently has only one 15 A circuit for a couple of overhead bare bulb light fixtures and the garage door openers. I have an electrician coming shortly to add at least 20 A circuit with multiple outlets, and possibly a 30 A 240V sub panel. Since it is a one-man shop I never need to run more than one piece of machinery at a time, so the total amperage is less of a concern than having a lot of convenient outlets.
So, having enjoyed the advice of the group for 10 – 12 years, I wonder what suggestions you have for setting up a brand new shop. Be innovative, we may all learn something in the process.
|
I have seen jigs that were predominately wood to avoid the heat loss, apparently if you are careful?you do not burn the wood but even if you did burn the wood so what,? just make a new one from a new piece of wood you just reuse the metal parts.
Ralph
Ralph, Thanks for offering your friends welder, but as of 2 days ago, I have working jigs for scarfing and brazing bandsaw blades!
My first attempt worked well, but the next blade had 2 failures before I got it to work.
I made the welding jig out of aluminum and I only had about a half inch gap in the jig. I think the jig was acting too much like a heat sink so I had to heat it quite a bit. After I widened the gap to a bit over an inch, I was able to use a smaller, more focused flame.
Thanks to everyone who contributed to this discussion.
Karl
|
Ralph, Thanks for offering your friends welder, but as of 2 days ago, I have working jigs for scarfing and brazing bandsaw blades!
My first attempt worked well, but the next blade had 2 failures before I got it to work.
I made the welding jig out of aluminum and I only had about a half inch gap in the jig. I think the jig was acting too much like a heat sink so I had to heat it quite a bit. After I widened the gap to a bit over an inch, I was able to use a smaller, more focused flame.
Thanks to everyone who contributed to this discussion.
Karl
|
I have refined my technique to silver-solder blades.? Since then, I have had zero break at the silver solder point.? Here are the highlights: 1.? Make a scarf joint by grinding each blade at a diagonal and shoot for a matching overlap of about 1/4 inch.? I made a wooden grinding fixture to help make the grind more uniform. 2.? Mount the blade in a fixture that will hold the two ends in alignment during the brazing. My fixture has a gap in the center for the brazing. 3.? Take a thin ribbon of silver solder (in my case I think that it is 55% silver but in a wire form, so I hammer it until it is about 1/4" wide and very thin - - perhaps 0.010") and cut it to the dimension of the width of my blade.?? 4.? I then flux both pieces, overlap them, slip in the thin ribbon of silver solder and verify alignment.? If necessary I sometimes will put a very slight bend in the blade so that the scarf joint is held in compression.?? 5.? Then I fire up the propane torch and heat the prepared joint until I see the silver solder melt and flow.? Remove the heat.? Then I file the blade until the joint is smooth on both sides and equal thickness.? 6.? Then I anneal the blade on each side of the joint.? Just enough so that it doesn't have a big transition point between soft and hard.
Others may have different techniques that work well for them.? But my technique works well for me.
|
I am fortunate to have a DoAll Blade
Welder that can weld 1" blades. The process is called Flash Butt Welding. In
the shops of the company I work for we also have "blade welders" that
can weld railroad rails together. These can weld 155#/yd rail (8" tall x 6-3/4"
base) in about 90 seconds. These welders can weld 80' rails into 1460' strings
which are loaded on rail trains and delivered to the installation site. Power
service to these machines is 460VAC at 800 Amps and they weigh about 75 Tons.
Likely too large for most home shops.
?
But before the DoAll welder I had to braze
or more correctly "Silver Solder" Blades. Just as in painting a car,
the prep work is everything and if done correctly the soldering is the easy
part. I found it best to not grind the scarf joint before soldering. I grind
the "tooth set" from the faces of the blade to be joined and lap the
to blade ends together for a distance of 1/2" to 1". The goal is to
have a "no gap" joint. Don't get crazy here, if you lap too much the
finished repaired blade may be to short to go over the saw wheels when you are
done. Even in FBWing broken blades back together the results can be too short.
If this is suspected to be the case I will weld too broken blades together and
cut out a section to get the correct length needed to fit the saw. The left
over material is saved for the next time length has to? be added, just be
sure to have at least 10" or 12" between joints.
?
A dirty grinding wheel will cause
soldering problems also. The wheel should be new or newly dressed to be sure
that things like copper, brass,? aluminum,? stainless, etc. are not
deposited on the surfaces to be joined by the dirty wheel. The faces to be joined
should be liberally fluxed and a piece of Silver Solder "Foil" place
between the lapped ends of the blade. Heat gently until the solder is seen to
melt and suck into the join. Remove the heat and immediately press the
sandwiched blade flat with a piece of preheated metal.
?
You now should have a lapped blade that
has no chance of going thought he guides unless you run the saw real fast. To
solve this, bend the now annealed blade at both ends of the lap until the main
portion of the blade on both side of the lap is in a straight line. Now grind
the protruding lapped end flush with the main body of the blade. Go slow so you
don't over heat the ends of the lap and melt the solder loose while checking
the thickness frequently. Ideally you would remove the same amount from both
sides but there is a bit of leeway as long as the overall thickness is correct.
Lightly grind the back also to level the joint.
?
I was never really successful until I
adopted this method. It is just about impossible to freehand grind a tight
scarf joint on the ends of the blade, especially without burning the ends. The success
or failure of a soldered joint can be measured by the thickness of the solder
interface.
?
So now I will go back into hiding like a "lurker
on a porn site" until the next time.
?
gary
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
On Behalf Of Jim.Klessig@...
Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2020
10:19 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Old
Blades
?
“The videos and articles make it look pretty easy,
so I will give it a whirl. “
Well they do not show you the times they tried, and it
didn’t work J
I think it is almost all about the prep.
You want the joint area clean and flat with the joint to
have no real gaps.
Make sure you flux it well and have the solder ready to
go.
And don’t give up if it doesn’t work the first
time.
Avoid breathing the fumes and keep the flux off your skin.
The good fluxes contain fluorides nasty stuff, but they
make the brazing easy peasy.
When the “solder” melts it should suck itself
right into the joint.
OUR
EMAIL ADDRESSES HAVE CHANGED
R James
(Jim) Klessig P.E. | Senior Power Systems
Engineer |
Electrical Reliability Services, VERTIV
jim.klessig@..., jim_klessig@...
1876 Gwin Rd,
Mckinleyville | CA | 95519 | USA
| Cell (707) 497-9611 | eFax 614-410-0653
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This e-mail and any files transmitted with it
are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are
addressed and may contain confidential and privileged information protected by
law. If you received this e-mail in error, any review, use, dissemination,
distribution, or copying of the e-mail is strictly prohibited. Please notify
the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete all copies from your system.
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Prep and cleaning. Those are the keys to the Kingdom. ;) If you clean it well, flux it well, heat it well, and hold it firmly in place while doing so you WILL get a good joint. Brazing is easy once you know how. Though it does help to have good equipment, too. And practice!
Bill in OKC
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)
On Thursday, June 25, 2020, 10:18:45 AM CDT, Jim.Klessig@... <jim.klessig@...> wrote:
“The videos and articles make it look pretty easy, so I will give it a whirl. “
?
Well they do not show you the times they tried, and it didn’t work J
?
I think it is almost all about the prep.
You want the joint area clean and flat with the joint to have no real gaps.
Make sure you flux it well and have the solder ready to go.
And don’t give up if it doesn’t work the first time.
Avoid breathing the fumes and keep the flux off your skin.
The good fluxes contain fluorides nasty stuff, but they make the brazing easy peasy.
When the “solder” melts it should suck itself right into the joint.
?
?
?
?
OUR EMAIL ADDRESSES HAVE CHANGED
?
?
R James (Jim) Klessig P.E. | Senior Power Systems Engineer |
Electrical Reliability Services, VERTIV
jim.klessig@..., jim_klessig@...
1876 Gwin Rd, Mckinleyville | CA | 95519 | USA
| Cell (707) 497-9611 | eFax 614-410-0653
?
?
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This e-mail and any files transmitted with it are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed and may contain confidential and privileged information protected
by law. If you received this e-mail in error, any review, use, dissemination, distribution, or copying of the e-mail is strictly prohibited. Please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete all copies from your system.
|
“The videos and articles make it look pretty easy, so I will give it a whirl. “
?
Well they do not show you the times they tried, and it didn’t work J
?
I think it is almost all about the prep.
You want the joint area clean and flat with the joint to have no real gaps.
Make sure you flux it well and have the solder ready to go.
And don’t give up if it doesn’t work the first time.
Avoid breathing the fumes and keep the flux off your skin.
The good fluxes contain fluorides nasty stuff, but they make the brazing easy peasy.
When the “solder” melts it should suck itself right into the joint.
?
?
?
?
OUR EMAIL ADDRESSES HAVE CHANGED
?
?
R James (Jim) Klessig P.E. | Senior Power Systems Engineer |
Electrical Reliability Services, VERTIV
jim.klessig@..., jim_klessig@...
1876 Gwin Rd, Mckinleyville | CA | 95519 | USA
| Cell (707) 497-9611 | eFax 614-410-0653
?
?
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This e-mail and any files transmitted with it are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed and may contain confidential and privileged information protected
by law. If you received this e-mail in error, any review, use, dissemination, distribution, or copying of the e-mail is strictly prohibited. Please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete all copies from your system.
|
Karl, where are you? I have a friend with a bandsaw welder.
Ralph
On Wed, Jun 24, 2020 at 8:42 PM Bill in OKC too via <wmrmeyers= [email protected]> wrote: Another link to add to your toolbox:??
HTH!
Bill in OKC
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)
Thanks, all.
My only previous attempt at silver soldering was with considerably larger pieces and it didn't go well, so I figured I needed a different heat source.
The videos and articles make it look pretty easy, so I will give it a whirl.
Thanks again. I'll post an update in a few days.
Karl
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Another link to add to your toolbox:??
HTH!
Bill in OKC
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)
On Wednesday, June 24, 2020, 05:56:57 PM CDT, <edfredfred1@...> wrote:
Thanks, all.
My only previous attempt at silver soldering was with considerably larger pieces and it didn't go well, so I figured I needed a different heat source.
The videos and articles make it look pretty easy, so I will give it a whirl.
Thanks again. I'll post an update in a few days.
Karl
|
Thanks, all.
My only previous attempt at silver soldering was with considerably larger pieces and it didn't go well, so I figured I needed a different heat source.
The videos and articles make it look pretty easy, so I will give it a whirl.
Thanks again. I'll post an update in a few days.
Karl
|
Karl:
You can make a sheet metal hole saw, like shown in this .? Pretty clever.
Other Bill
On Wednesday, June 24, 2020, 11:15:14 AM PDT, <edfredfred1@...> wrote:
I now have 2 broken blades. I have no idea what happened to the first, and I can't really remember what I was doing when it broke. The second broke as a result of my own stupidity. (Note to newbies - if you ever disconnect the counter balance spring, make sure you reconnect it before you use the saw again!)
My question - what can I do with the old blades?
My hottest flame is a Bernzo-matic plumbers torch, and my hottest electrical source is an old Weller soldiering gun, so repairing them myself is probably out of the question.
Is it worth it to have them repaired? A new blade is only $20 or so, but I have not priced repair. (I don't know anyone who could do it as a favor, so I would have to pay a shop to get it done.)
I have several old hacksaw blades as a source of spring steel for clips etc.
I am looking at 3 cents a pound recycling, but I thought I would ask before I did that.
Thanks
Karl
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Jerry Durand
@KarlH
Bill in OKC too
Bill Buckalew