>Would anyone happen to have plans to build a vertical table??
?
I made a video but never made drawings. You can probably make it from the video.?
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That's a great design!? My vertical table is only about 2.5 x 2.5", which is usually all I need, but extra real estate would come in handy from time to time.
-Dave
On Friday, April 1, 2022, 04:20:10 PM PDT, Greg Gelhar <greg@...> wrote:
How about a table that converts from horizontal to vertical in one second? I pirated this idea many years ago and love it when needed. ?
From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of David via groups.io Sent: Friday, April 1, 2022 2:44 PM To: [email protected]Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Vertical table ? Hello,
Would anyone happen to have plans to build a vertical table? Photo's of custom tables would work too.
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??? ??? That is probably the coolest mod I have seen for one of
these saws . Did you have an drawings or did you just go rogue ?
Nice job , thanks for sharing .
??? ??? animal
On 4/1/2022 4:19 PM, Greg Gelhar wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
How about a table that converts from
horizontal to vertical in one second? I pirated this idea many
years ago and love it when needed.
?
?
Hello,
Would anyone happen to have plans to build a vertical table?
Photo's of custom tables would work too.
|
Re: Base casting measurements?
If that handle is still floppy, that
will be the thing that gets you the most unexpected way.
As the saw goes over forward,? the
handle folds down allowing even more uncontrolled forward flipping
motion!
Firm that handle up somehow...
.
After that, going past center of
gravity, the wheels will roll towards your feet and the saw will
hit the ground that way as well.
.
And then there is the standard sideways
fall over as well.
.
3-ways + to ruin your day.
.
John
On 4/1/2022 1:40 PM, Jim Frame wrote:
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It looks great, and I'm sure it's a lot sturdier than the original
equipment, *but*...that saw is still ready to do a backflip if you
lose control of the arm when you raise it.
|
How about a table that converts from horizontal to vertical in one second? I pirated this idea many years ago and love it when needed. ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of David via groups.io Sent: Friday, April 1, 2022 2:44 PM To: [email protected]Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Vertical table ? Hello,
Would anyone happen to have plans to build a vertical table? Photo's of custom tables would work too.
|
Here's a simple one, that I found on the net somewhere, and made,
other than the corner chopped off. That's to clear the vise if you
leave it on all the time, which I don't.
Not hing fancy, but it works for what I need a vertical saw for.
On 4/1/2022 12:43 PM, David via
groups.io wrote:
Hello,
Would anyone happen to have plans to build a vertical table?
Photo's of custom tables would work too.
|
Hello,
Would anyone happen to have plans to build a vertical table? Photo's of custom tables would work too.
|
Re: Base casting measurements?
There is a pin on mine near the hinge point on the left side that locks the top to be body.? I Always use that and have yet to have a scare. I've forgotten lots of other things but not this one...yet.
On Fri, Apr 1, 2022 at 12:33 PM terry keeley < tkee@...> wrote: Ya, I had it almost do the backflip on me once, now I always hold the top with one hand and the handle with the other when I move it.
I got it on Fleebay but as mentioned if you order it from Jet it could be $700!
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Re: Base casting measurements?
That's the blades I use. I cut a lot of stainless, as well as
alloys like 4140Q&T. The Lenox blades hold up better than any
I've used.
I did use Irwin's bi-metal blades for a while, since they were
$14.00 a copy from Enco, which, at the time, was less than half
what the Lenox was going for. Irwin is not as tough as the Lenox,
but is a good blade, and was real good at the price.
Now, MSC sells the Irwin's for the same price as what I pay for
the Lenox. In that case, Lenox wins!
Other Bill
On 4/1/2022 10:19 AM, terry keeley
wrote:
[Edited Message Follows]
I kept looking at making something up but just never seemed to
find the time, this was a great compromise.
BTW, I find these blades are fantastic with our little saws, they
work great on all materials including stainless and titanium:
|
Re: Base casting measurements?
Ya, I had it almost do the backflip on me once, now I always hold the top with one hand and the handle with the other when I move it.
I got it on Fleebay but as mentioned if you order it from Jet it could be $700!
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Re: Base casting measurements?
Looks good Terry But Jims right, it WILL backflip on you, esp if you move it with?the sawframe vertical.? You'll tell yourself you'll never do it, but there will be that one time when you?just need to move it an?inch or 2 for clearance on a long bit of stock in?the?vice and.....? The front legs will just run straight?into your shins and there won't?be anything you can do to stop it. When it backflips, generally the pivot ears break off the base casting and the saw is junk? 3-4" further back is all it needs - jv
On Sat, Apr 2, 2022 at 6:40 AM Jim Frame < jhframe@...> wrote: It looks great, and I'm sure it's a lot sturdier than the original equipment, *but*...that saw is still ready to do a backflip if you lose control of the arm when you raise it.
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Re: Base casting measurements?
Looks great! Now, where did you purchase the stand?
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On Apr 1, 2022, at 10:19 AM, terry keeley <tkee@...> wrote:
? <007.JPG> I kept looking at making something up but just never seemed to find the time, this was a great compromise. BTW, I find these blades are fantastic wit our little saws, they work great on all materials including stainless and titanium:
|
Re: Base casting measurements?
It looks great, and I'm sure it's a lot sturdier than the original equipment, *but*...that saw is still ready to do a backflip if you lose control of the arm when you raise it.
|
Re: Base casting measurements?
 I kept looking at making something up but just never seemed to find the time, this was a great compromise. BTW, I find these blades are fantastic with our little saws, they work great on all materials including stainless and titanium:
|
Re: Base casting measurements?
Great news! Post a pic when you can!
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On Mar 30, 2022, at 8:55 PM, terry keeley <tkee@...> wrote:
?Got the new stand today and it mounted right up, it's a big improvement over my original paper thin unit.
You can't imagine the joy I felt throwing that old POS stand in the trash!
Thanks for the help!
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Re: Base casting measurements?
Got the new stand today and it mounted right up, it's a big improvement over my original paper thin unit.
You can't imagine the joy I felt throwing that old POS stand in the trash!
Thanks for the help!
|
Re: Mysterious shift in saw alignment
The motor on my Harbor Freight 4 x 6 lasted about 2 years, but it
saw quite a bit of use in that time.? Rather than buy a new motor I
put the money toward a Grizzly swivel base saw like you Bill and
gave the old saw to a friend who put a new motor on it. The Grizzly
is a really great tool.? I felt as much as I used the HF saw that I
got my moneys worth and my friend is happy with it.
Paul
On 3/24/2022 5:27 PM, Bill Armstrong
wrote:
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I think any of the companies selling low costs saws out there,
with China made motors, cheat. There are different grades of
cheating, but they cheat.
Back to you get what you pay for, and they are manufactured to
varying specs, of what is acceptable, and what is not. For most
hobbyists, a Horror Freight, or similar, is fine. It's not
seeing the use of a fab shop, and for a guys home shop, with a
little tweaking, not a biggie. We don't mind tweaking stuff to
save a buck.
If you have more money, buy a Jet. When I bought my Grizzly
swivel-base saw, a Jet just like it, cost over double. The Jet,
has a motor made in Taiwan, like my Jet knee mill, and my Jet
table saw. Higher quality. You pay for it.
Or, you can splurge. Howzabout a Wellsaw, or a DoAll? Quality
gear, all I have been around, but, for a hobbyist, hard to
justify the cost for occasional use.
So.....a low cost saw is a crap shoot. The chance you take. Not
much you can tweak on the motor you get with it. It may
last....and maybe not. :)
Other Bill
On 3/24/2022 3:26 PM, John Vreede
wrote:
Glad to hear it
cuts well George.
Your 1HP motor will never heat up on a 4x6, as its only running
at 1/3 to 1/2 the load the motor is capable of.
You'd think that Consumer Guarantee legislation would stop the
dishonest practice of inferring that input power is the same as
output power.?
It works like this:?
The maker states the maximum motor current, so you can spec the
supply wiring (I think that's law some places).??
Funny how LOTS of motors just happen to draw 6.8Amps at 110Volts.
So the power drawn from the mains supply is 6.8*110 = 748Watts?
Oh but - WOW -? there are 746W in a horsepower - our motor is
1HP
In reality induction motors are somewhere between 30% and 60%
efficient; the more cheaply made, the lower the efficiency.
So a claimed 1HP motor drawing 6.8 amps might deliver less than
1/3HP
I don't think you'll see motors stating input power as output on
their motor plate, because motor manufacturers are bound by NEMA
and IEC rules to state output (horsepower is a 'rate of doing
work' (ie. its output) not 'rate of consuming power (input).?
But brand owners are not bound like this.?
Check for yourselves The Grizzly 4x6 G0622 (last old style 4x6
that with Grizzly brand - see manual in the Files section)
claims it has a 3/4HP motor and its draws 5A maximum current
(5x110=550W input Watts, divide by 746 = 0.737 - near enough
3/4'HP' so is clearly input power), while their replacement
3/4HP motor (
draws 10.3A @ 110V (over double!).
Yet even Grizzly are inconsistent with their bandsaws.? The
Grizzly G9742 swivel-base version (?which
has the same sawframe (but maybe not motor) claims a 1/2HP motor
that draws 8.8A @ 110V (= 968W - much more likely)??
Shame and double shame alright Bill, on all those who cheat - jv
|
Re: Mysterious shift in saw alignment
I think any of the companies selling low costs saws out there,
with China made motors, cheat. There are different grades of
cheating, but they cheat.
Back to you get what you pay for, and they are manufactured to
varying specs, of what is acceptable, and what is not. For most
hobbyists, a Horror Freight, or similar, is fine. It's not seeing
the use of a fab shop, and for a guys home shop, with a little
tweaking, not a biggie. We don't mind tweaking stuff to save a
buck.
If you have more money, buy a Jet. When I bought my Grizzly
swivel-base saw, a Jet just like it, cost over double. The Jet,
has a motor made in Taiwan, like my Jet knee mill, and my Jet
table saw. Higher quality. You pay for it.
Or, you can splurge. Howzabout a Wellsaw, or a DoAll? Quality
gear, all I have been around, but, for a hobbyist, hard to justify
the cost for occasional use.
So.....a low cost saw is a crap shoot. The chance you take. Not
much you can tweak on the motor you get with it. It may
last....and maybe not. :)
Other Bill
On 3/24/2022 3:26 PM, John Vreede
wrote:
Glad to hear it cuts well George.
Your 1HP motor will never heat up on a 4x6, as its only running at
1/3 to 1/2 the load the motor is capable of.
You'd think that Consumer Guarantee legislation would stop the
dishonest practice of inferring that input power is the same as
output power.?
It works like this:?
The maker states the maximum motor current, so you can spec the
supply wiring (I think that's law some places).??
Funny how LOTS of motors just happen to draw 6.8Amps at 110Volts.
So the power drawn from the mains supply is 6.8*110 = 748Watts?
Oh but - WOW -? there are 746W in a horsepower - our motor is 1HP
In reality induction motors are somewhere between 30% and 60%
efficient; the more cheaply made, the lower the efficiency.
So a claimed 1HP motor drawing 6.8 amps might deliver less than
1/3HP
I don't think you'll see motors stating input power as output on
their motor plate, because motor manufacturers are bound by NEMA
and IEC rules to state output (horsepower is a 'rate of doing
work' (ie. its output) not 'rate of consuming power (input).?
But brand owners are not bound like this.?
Check for yourselves The Grizzly 4x6 G0622 (last old style 4x6
that with Grizzly brand - see manual in the Files section) claims
it has a 3/4HP motor and its draws 5A maximum current (5x110=550W
input Watts, divide by 746 = 0.737 - near enough 3/4'HP' so is
clearly input power), while their replacement 3/4HP motor (
draws 10.3A @ 110V (over double!).
Yet even Grizzly are inconsistent with their bandsaws.? The
Grizzly G9742 swivel-base version (?which
has the same sawframe (but maybe not motor) claims a 1/2HP motor
that draws 8.8A @ 110V (= 968W - much more likely)??
Shame and double shame alright Bill, on all those who cheat - jv
|
Re: Mysterious shift in saw alignment
Glad to hear it cuts well George.
Your 1HP motor will never heat up on a 4x6, as its only running at 1/3 to 1/2 the load the motor is capable of.
You'd think that Consumer Guarantee legislation would stop the dishonest practice of inferring that input power is the same as output power.?
It works like this:?
The maker states the maximum motor current, so you can spec the supply wiring (I think that's law some places).??
Funny how LOTS of motors just happen to draw 6.8Amps at 110Volts.
So the power drawn from the mains supply is 6.8*110 = 748Watts?
Oh but - WOW -? there are 746W in a horsepower - our motor is 1HP
In reality induction motors are somewhere between 30% and 60% efficient; the more cheaply made, the lower the efficiency.
So a claimed 1HP motor drawing 6.8 amps might deliver less than 1/3HP
I don't think you'll see motors stating input power as output on their motor plate, because motor manufacturers are bound by NEMA and IEC rules to state output (horsepower is a 'rate of doing work' (ie. its output) not 'rate of consuming power (input).?
But brand owners are not bound like this.?
Check for yourselves The Grizzly 4x6 G0622 (last old style 4x6 that with Grizzly brand - see manual in the Files section) claims it has a 3/4HP motor and its draws 5A maximum current (5x110=550W input Watts, divide by 746 = 0.737 - near enough 3/4'HP' so is clearly input power), while their replacement 3/4HP motor ( draws 10.3A @ 110V (over double!).
Yet even Grizzly are inconsistent with their bandsaws.? The Grizzly G9742 swivel-base version (?which has the same sawframe (but maybe not motor) claims a 1/2HP motor that draws 8.8A @ 110V (= 968W - much more likely)??
Shame and double shame alright Bill, on all those who cheat - jv
|
Re: Mysterious shift in saw alignment
John, ? Long time lurker but had to respond to the motor issue.? My HF saw is about 10 yrs old and the first motor lasted about18 months.? Was in the middle of a project and had to go to Grainger and got a 1HP motor (which cost more than the saw at the time.)? It never gets more than warm.? I don’t have any of the problems recently discussed, but thanks to you and others on the forum, and about 3 weeks of clean-up and adjustments plus a good blade, the saw runs and cuts just fine. ? George ? ?
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From: [email protected] On Behalf Of John Vreede Sent: Wednesday, March 23, 2022 10:17 PM To: [email protected] Group Moderators < [email protected]> Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Mysterious shift in saw alignment ? I don't know that?Chinese made motors are necessarily?poor or overrated, you just get what you pay for (sometimes less!).? Remember it's the American parent company that specified the motor on the Grizzly and?HF .? They chose to advertise its horsepower?as power output, as Grizzly used to (not sure now), or maximum motor-current?x voltage converted to horsepower, so is power input as HF do (and thus is overrated by 100-200%). Chinese?made stuff can be very well made or very poorly made, depending on how much the customer is willing to pay.? Looking back to when I was a child in the 1950's; 'Made in Japan' was a by-word for 'crappy' but not now.? I think the Chinese made stuff is better than the Japanese stuff was, or Taiwanese or Korean stuff for that?matter, at an equivalent stage of that country's industrial development. The running temperature?of a motor, as Jim indicated, is highly variable.? It is specified according to the temperature rating of the insulation around the wire in the motor winding, called 'winding insulation class' or just 'class' on the motor plate.? The following classes are recognised. Winding Insulation Class | Max Temperature °C | Max Temperature °F | A | 105 | 221 | E (IEC motors only) | 120 | 248 | B* | 130 | 266 | F* | 155 | 311 | H | 180 | 356 |
* most common industrial motor classes. Where the motor is rated to run continuously, it can operate indefinitely below its max operating temperature given by its class.. My 1987 saw had a?Class?A motor which burned out and was replaced with a?TEFC class F,?the other two (yr2000 and 2020) are Open class E motors. Old Class A motors had relatively poor insulation on the wire, that broke down above 105C?(220F), so they necessarily had thicker wire (i.e. more copper) to keep the temperature?down and so weighed much more than higher classes of motor. but you can still burn yourself on a Class A motor operating within its normal parameters.? Modern TEFC (totally enclosed fan cooled) motors are generally class F or H and you'll burn yourself very quickly on these, even operating at relatively low power outputs, and they can run all day at over 300F!? Mnfr's are always trying to get more out of less, and one of the more recent innovations?is copper coated aluminium wire for the windings.? Not sure how this will pan out in the long run. but aluminium has almost as high heat and electrical conductivity as copper at 1/3 the weight and inertia, so it will find a place. American made, or Chinese made, they run at the temperature dictated by the actual load, run time and their winding insulation class - jv ? On Thu, Mar 24, 2022 at 1:12 PM Bill Armstrong <bill_1955@...> wrote: Chinese made motors, are highly overrated. That's why I replaced it with
a USA made model.
The new motor I have now, doesn't get too hot to touch, even with long
run times.
On 3/23/2022 5:09 PM, Jim.Klessig@... via wrote:
> Electrical equipment running at rated is often near 40c, or higher which is indeed too hot to comfortably touch.
> Much is rated for a 30c RISE in a 40c ambient.
>
>
>
>
> Jim Klessig
> Senior Power Systems Engineer
>
> Phone +1 707.497.9611
> Jim.Klessig@...? |? Connect with us at
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Bill Armstrong
> Sent: Wednesday, March 23, 2022 4:36 PM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Mysterious shift in saw alignment
>
> CAUTION: This email originated from outside of Vertiv. Do not click links or open attachments unless you recognize the sender and know the content is safe.
>
>
> Free, is a very good price! A better price than I paid for my Grizzly saw no doubt!
>
> I'm happy with it. I adjusted it when I got it, and have had to adjust the tracking a couple times, as it vibrates loose over time. I've replaced all of the guide bearings, and he motor finally started giving out last years, so I replaced it with an American made model. I'm sure I killed it, by sawing for hours on end on some big projects, and getting the motor so hot I couldn't lay a finger on it.
>
> I cut mostly alloys, like 1045 & 4140Q&T, and 304, & 316 stainless steels, so I run nothing but 10/14 bi-metal as well. I could cut aluminum, and the bronzes I use more effeciently with other blades, and have, but do fine running nothing but the 10/14's.
>
> Other Bill
>
>
> On 3/23/2022 2:56 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
>> On 3/23/2022 2:04 PM, Bill Armstrong wrote:
>>> This conversation, sure makes me glad I bought a Grizzly!
>>>
>>> :)
>>>
>>
>>? ? Mine was free for helping a guy clean out his shop after 3 (yes , 3)
>> giant oak trees fell on it . I don't even know what brand it is (it's
>> kinda metallic green where it still has paint), but it cuts adequately
>> square for me . I usually use 10/14 M42 blades , unless cutting thin
>> sections , then I go to an 18t carbon steel blade .
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Mark
.JPG)
Chuck Peterson
terry keeley
John Vreede
Jim Frame